New pet introduction not going so well, or is it?

October 28, 2021 5:54 AM

We bought a house that came with a cat, and so far she hates all the pets we brought with us. Details of our intro plan inside; is this normal or should we change up our strategy?

Following up on this question, we did get the house and we did take the cat. Despite her RBF, she is a lovebug - to humans, at least. But she is very unhappy about our dopey dog and two large male cats moving into "her" house.

We've been here for about three weeks, and so far our routine has been to let her spend the day outside, and to bring her in at night but keep her in a closed bedroom with food, water, litter, and a cozy bed. The room has two doors, one of which is louvered, which we hoped would hasten the acclimation process by giving everyone sniffing access.

We also began bringing her into the den or living room and holding her while the other pets are around. There's been more sniffing and some hissing, but there were a few moments of peace before she started to get squirmy (after about 10 minutes). If she jumped down on her own, it usually ended in her being chased by the dog - he doesn't want to hurt her, but he is terribly curious and he's big, so I understand how scary that must be for her.

A few nights ago I decided that, since everyone is well aware of each other's presence, it might be time to let them figure things out themselves. We put a gate on New Cat's bedroom so the dog couldn't get in, but the other cats could. Bad idea. The smaller of our large cats immediately approached her; there was hissing and snarling and before I could scoop up either of them, it devolved into a Warner Bros-style cat fight - just a whirl of fur and screeching. Then the larger cat came into the room, it seemed to defend his brother (or possibly me, for I too was screeching), and then the dog came in and for about 30 seconds, it was utter chaos. New cat jumped up onto a bookcase while we got everyone out of the room. Once it was quiet, she sat with me and purred and quickly fell asleep, but since then she has been extremely jumpy and squirmy when I hold her and doesn't want to be around the other animals at all. I feel like we took more than two steps back, and it's discouraging.

We're definitely in this for the long haul, however long that is, but the weather's getting colder and at some point it will not be kind for us to put her outside all day, and it's just kind of generally inconvenient and strange to have one animal isolated, even if it is for everyone's general good.

So, wise pet folk, what would you recommend: Let them fight it out? Go back to our gradual introductions? If so, at what point will we know they're ready to coexist? We've had many pets over the years and usually the acclimation process has gone more quickly, and with less drama. (Thankfully there hasn't been any weird peeing or spraying, and hopefully I haven't jinxed myself.) Thank you!!

posted by Sweetie Darling to Pets & Animals (5 answers total)

So first thing here is the dog needs to learn that cats don't exist, they are delusions he needs to ignore. What we did with my wife's old dog was train him on a redirect command - "look at me", basically - with liberal treats, and used it every time he noticed a cat. However friendly the dog is, if he corners the new cat he's gonna get his nose shredded and then he might very well retaliate, and it won't be his fault. It's your responsibility to make sure that doesn't happen.

Secondly, holding the new cat, or picking her up when shit starts, are not great ideas. She's just going to feel more stressed that she can't escape from a potentially dangerous situation. Interactions should be in a setting where everyone can leave (either to a different room or up high to somewhere defensible) regardless of where everyone is standing. If for a while you need to do this with the dog on a leash, that's just fine. The point is that everyone can get used to each other without any escalation.
posted by restless_nomad at 7:11 AM on October 28, 2021 [6 favorites]

No, definitely do NOT let them fight it out! Someone could be injured.

It can take a really long time to acclimate new and old pets with each other. You've been lucky in the past if it's gone quickly. You can come back from this, but take it sloooooow. Go back to no contact for a few days, and start reintroducing slowly, one animal at a time, ideally on neutral territory.

Have the dog on a tight leash at first when you reintroduce.

Give treats for good behavior. Consider feeding two animals in the same room, and then gradually bringing closer over time.

Let the bedroom be new kitty's territory. Don't let other animals in there for a while.

Have you tried feliway diffuser or the like? Some cats react to it by becoming calmer.

Also, please do not leave new kitty outside anyway, bad weather or no. Outdoor cats have much shorter lifespans. How will you feel if she just never comes back one day? Or if she gets run over, attacked by a dog, or poisoned by antifreeze? She will be ok in just the bedroom for now, as long as she gets everything she needs in there (including attention).

Look at Jackson Galaxy videos about how to introduce cats, and how to introduce a dog and a cat. Good luck!
posted by Flock of Cynthiabirds at 7:15 AM on October 28, 2021 [5 favorites]

you should read pages 7-12 of this, pasted below but with wonky formating, especially the bit that starts "Before introducing the cats physically" : https://www.cats.org.uk/media/1022/eg11_cats_living_together.pdf

via https://www.cats.org.uk/help-and-advice/cat-behaviour/introducing-cats and https://www.cats.org.uk/help-and-advice/cats-and-your-family/other-cats

page 7:

Introducing cats

Unfamiliar cats should be introduced very slowly in the hope that they will ultimately perceive each other to be in the same social group, or at least peacefully cohabit. This can be helped by providing plentiful resources in a variety of different places in the home to avoid con ict and competition.
If cats are forced together too quickly, it may lead to
lifelong con ict and stress which is dif cult to resolve – rst impressions are all important. Unfortunately, all too often, cats are introduced without suf cient time and resources to successfully integrate. The result can be two cats forced to cohabit under stress. Behavioural problems may result, or they may become withdrawn or intolerant of attention.
The tips on the following pages, together with patience and understanding, will help you ensure that initial introductions start off long and happy relationships. If you succeed, not only will your cats be happy, but you will be rewarded with the frequent delight of watching charming interactions between your cats.

Important resources for cats

If you have an existing resident cat, ensure that all their routines remain the same where possible. Shut the new cat in the room that the resident cat uses the least.

When introducing two cats to each other for the rst time, it is best to give each cat a separate room. In each room provide each cat with:
• food and water. Cats like to drink away from where they eat, so place the food and water bowls in separate areas sited away from the litter tray
• somewhere to hide. It is very important for cats to have somewhere to hide – eg a cardboard box on its side, or under the bed – particularly when adapting to a new environment
• a viewing platform. Cats love to view their surroundings from a height. You could offer access to high spots eg shelves or the top of a wardrobe window sills. Ensure easy access by placing a stool nearby
• somewhere to sleep – igloo beds, cardboard box, blankets in elevated places
• toys – be aware that a cat may not want to play while they are settling in
• ascratchingpost–tryplacingthisneartowherethecatsleeps as they often like to stretch and scratch after they wake up
• litter tray – placed away from food and water bowls

You can install a facial pheromone diffuser, such as Feliway©, in the area that each cat uses to sleep, to make the environment more reassuring for the cats.

Before introducing the cats physically, introduce them to each other’s scent. Swap scents by:
• stroking each cat with a separate clean, soft cloth and dabbing it around your home and furniture or leaving the cloth in the cat’s environment to sniff when the cat is ready to investigate
• keep swapping the scents until the cats show no reaction to the smell
• if the cats avoid the scent cloth, then the scent swapping stage is going to take longer

Keep mixing scents until the cats show no reaction to the smell. You can progress to allowing them to see each other, but not letting them touch or meet one another. Try placing a glass or mesh door between the cats, and allow each cat to approach or hide as they choose. Do not progress to a face-to-face introduction until the cats either ignore each other or show positive feline social behaviour – such as attempting to groom each other or rub heads on each other through the divider.

When it is time to introduce your cats face to face, it helps to:
• ensure easy escape routes are available for both cats, as well as easy access to places higher up, such as furniture or shelves
• start in a fairly large room where they can stay at a distance from each other
• supervise the cats when they are together
• work at a pace that the cats are comfortable with and go
back a step if necessary
• only introduce for short periods of time during feeding time
to help form positive associations with each other, before
returning the cats to separate rooms
• gradually start to fuss or play with the cats for a short time,
so their attention is on you, before putting the food down
If this is tolerated, gradually increase the time they spend together.

It can take anything from a day to many weeks for cats to tolerate each other, so don’t give up if there is some hissing and spitting initially, just go back a step. They are unlikely to fight, but have a blanket ready just in case, so you can separate them. Take care to avoid being bitten or scratched as the cats may be quite excited. Don’t chase or shout at them as this will only lead to them associating each other with bad things.

As the cats become more comfortable in each other’s company, try giving them titbits to encourage them to come closer. Choose somewhere where they can escape easily – placing an object such as a chair between the feeding bowls may help them feel less threatened. Over time, you can move the bowls closer together but do not place them side by side.

Many cats prefer to eat separately to other cats – even those cats in the same social group, as a throwback to their evolutionary past when they would hunt – and eat – separately. Cats can feel vulnerable when they are eating, so place food and water bowls slightly away from the wall, so the cat has space to sit with its back to the wall and is able to survey the room while eating or drinking.

Always remember that, even despite careful introductions, some cats never become friends or part of the same social group. Differences in characteristics play a great part in all social interactions and cats are certainly no exception to this rule.

Remember that if your cats are apart for any reason, for example if one has to stay at a boarding cattery or a vets, this may affect their scent and they may not be recognized as part of the same social group when they return, The longer a cat is away, the harder it can be to reintegrate. It’s a good idea to keep the cats apart – so the absent cat can pick up the smells of home – and slowly reintroduce them. Consider where you place their resources such as food bowls and litter trays, bearing in mind the advice above.
By taking the simple steps outlined in this leaflet, you can often dramatically improve the quality of life of the cats living in your household.
If you have problems please seek help sooner rather than later, as it may be easier to resolve a recently developed problem, than one which has occurred for some time.
If cats have been introduced too quickly, you may need to give them separate rooms and start the integration procedure from scratch. Speak with your vet for further advice who may recommend referral to a suitably qualifed behaviourist.
For more information, see Cats Protection’s Essential Guide: Understanding your cat’s behaviour.

Many cats will, like their African wildcat ancestors, be ok with living in a colony with other cats, and are more likely to like cats from the same lineage. Especially if they've all picked up the same house scent/lineage scent. (Like, I've had Cat A hiss at Cat B when cat B came home smelling like the vet.) But, the old cat hadn't had a chance to prowl around the living room alone and check out their scents and also scent mark stuff by rubbing her face against it, and poke around their living quarters when they're out, and vice-versa, and related activities, which can be utterly crucial to warming up to the new cats, before meeting through a screen or transparent pane. When you dumped her in there it was just them and their scent all over her turf, and they're basically still strangers to her.

So I guess you'll have to start over at step 1.

Bit more about colonies and scent here:
https://savelisful.tumblr.com/post/147656211058/prokopetz-that-thing-about-how-cats-think/amp

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC7149619/

>
We're definitely in this for the long haul, however long that is, but the weather's getting colder and at some point it will not be kind for us to put her outside all day, and it's just kind of generally inconvenient and strange to have one animal isolated, even if it is for everyone's general good.


I'd even consider putting a rough or well-made cat door in her bedroom window, if that's feasible, or provider her with a feral-cat-style-warming-shelter.
posted by sebastienbailard at 7:17 AM on October 28, 2021 [2 favorites]

Can you just keep her in the room and go in for cuddles? I expect she'll need a safe, indoor place for a while yet.

About two years ago, we introduced a young male cat to our older female cat. The young male cat is super friendly. The older female cat is a bit anxious. We started with the young male cat in a room on his own, then with a see-through barrier, then allowed him out. He chased the female cat and she ended up hiding all the time, so we backed up and restarted over a few months.

We took the older female cat to the vet to get something to help her anxiety. She ended up with a chip-activated feeder that allows her to eat her slightly drugged food. The young male cat eventually ended up climbing over her, trying to get at the "special food". She was so focused on food that she just ignored him and that's when they started to become friends. That process took close to a year from when we got the new cat.
posted by TORunner at 7:22 AM on October 28, 2021 [2 favorites]

Sometimes flower essences can be used to help calm critters.
posted by Mesaverdian at 2:03 PM on October 28, 2021