Why are my ballet flats wearing out so quickly at the back of the heel?
December 2, 2013 11:38 PM   Subscribe

My ballet flats seem to wear out at the back of one heel well before the sole goes. Why is this happening, and how can I stop it?

After only a few months of wearing my Tieks ballet flats, they looked like this at the back of the left heel.

Now, I haven't done anything out of the ordinary with them; I simply wore them a few times a week on city streets. The company's customer service, perhaps predictably, says my experience is not at all the norm and that most people have their Tieks for years without seeing anything close to this kind of wear.

I have a few questions:
  • Assuming that it's true that many people eke years out of these relatively expensive and purportedly well-made flats, what could I be doing wrong? (Of course the company's claim isn't unbiased, but internet research suggests at least some people do wear their Tieks for years.) Could it somehow be the way that I'm walking? If so, why the left side only? Perhaps a sizing issue? In general, the rest of the shoe seems stitched together quite well and is holding up. For reference, here is the right flat, which shows almost no wear. I've inspected my older flats from other brands, and they all seem to have a pattern of more scuffing/wear on the left back heel, though not quite to the extent of this pair.
  • Is there something preventative I can do when I first purchase flats to extend their life and protect against this kind of wear? I'm not a stranger to the cobbler -- I get boots and heels reheeled -- but I was told this kind of damage isn't fixable once it appears. I've read a lot of advice about preemptively adding protective soles or replacing soles once they've worn out, but in my case the problem is the part where the sole meets the upper at the back of the heel, not the sole itself. Can anything be done?
  • If you believe it's the fault of the shoe and not a shoe-mangling gait that only I have, can you recommend ballet flats that truly do last for years in good condition, or at least can be repaired like other good-quality shoes over time to extend their life? I am interested in a classic, simple ballet flat shape, with as little of a heel as possible. Is there a particular feature of flats I could look for that would make them less susceptible to wearing down in the spot pictured above? I read through this thread, but again all the suggestions seem to be making the assumption that the sole will wear down first, which has never happened for me. So far I've tried Bloch, Cole Haan, and now these latest Tieks, but do I just need to find better brands? (There are a bunch of Metafilter threads about buying good-quality shoes, and I've found that my better-quality boots do last, but my ballet flats get scuffed and ruined quickly no matter how much I spend.) I understand that I may be looking for the impossible -- perhaps ballet flats will always get worn out quickly because there's no heel protecting the shoe from rubbing against the ground.
What wisdom do you have for me? Please help me stop ruining my existing flats or recommend better-quality flats that won't wear down in this way. Failing that, tell me to give up and return to cheap disposables.
posted by lettersoflead to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (18 answers total) 4 users marked this as a favorite
 
I know you say you only wear them a few times a week on city streets...but did you drive a car to reach those city streets? If not, move on to the next comment, but if so, consider the possibility that you're grinding your heel into the car mats (especially if you drive stick, or just out of restlessness if you drive an automatic.) I know that sounds odd, but I've seen it both ways: holes worn into car mats within six months from a wooden sole, and soft shoe heels worn out quickly on one foot only due to driving position/fidgetiness. Driving is probably the only thing we do that involves the feet in such an asymmetrical relationship.
posted by davejay at 12:01 AM on December 3, 2013 [2 favorites]


My left heel always wears much quicker than my right because my left leg is the shorter of the two. If I pay attention I can notice it when I walk, sometimes just by a slightly different sound when my heel hits.

It could be these are just the most vulnerable in the heel of any your shoes.

I notice the shorter leg when cuffing pants, too, fwiw.
posted by wemayfreeze at 12:22 AM on December 3, 2013


I have an uneven wear on all of my shoes:

1. From driving

2. I under-pronate-superinate

It's more pronounced on my right foot.

You can see a podiatrist and get an orthotic, which may help. Or buy more sturdy shoes, or just think of your shoes as disposable.
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 5:00 AM on December 3, 2013 [1 favorite]


No idea what you might be doing. However, in my walking in ciry streets and in parks and malls and even on national forest hiking trails, I see people walking on their heels all the time. Also people with short Achilles tendons who are effectively walking on tip toe and people who slap the whole sole down with little ankle action. Despite being natural-born bipeds, many of us are not good at walking. Orthotics or just some thoughtfulness about your gait may help.
posted by Lesser Shrew at 5:39 AM on December 3, 2013


I also think you may have an idiosyncratic gait, off-kilter pronation, etc.

What do the heels of your other footwear look like right now? Hold them up at eye level and pointing away from you - are there signs of uneven wear on them as well? Do they 'slope' to one or other side? That's not normal.

I'm assuming that wearing flats on the street with a gait issue might lead them to wear more rapidly than something with a more substantial heel.

While orthotics are a good idea generally (I have them) however I'm not sure they would fit in flats too easily.
posted by carter at 6:02 AM on December 3, 2013


Perhaps a sizing issue?

I've inspected my older flats from other brands, and they all seem to have a pattern of more scuffing/wear on the left back heel, though not quite to the extent of this pair.
(emphasis mine.)

This caught my eye. The fact that you mentioned sizing, and the thin, flat soles on the shoes reminded me of something that happened to me.

A few months ago I replaced my basic Teva flip-flops with the exact same kind. It had taken few years of near-constant use to wear out the old pair, but after four days of heavy-but-usual use I realized my right heel had almost ground a hole through the shoe.

It turned out that the new pair was a size up, but since I'm probably a half-size in Tevas I didn't notice when I first put them on. However, my gait clearly compensated, probably just to manage keeping the show on my foot.
posted by Room 641-A at 6:37 AM on December 3, 2013


Take these in to a good cobbler or custom shoe/leather worker - that is a difficult repair, but a leather worker might be able to cut and glue a very thin piece of leather over some filler over the worn bit. Since they're black, this will be easier. If a cobbler can't do it (and many have more limited skill-sets now since people usually throw out damaged shoes, unlike in the past) check with someone who makes custom leather stuff - around here, there's a place that does biker and Ren Fest stuff, a cobbler who immigrated from Eastern Europe and can actually make shoes and a leather/fetish place, all of which could possibly do something about that shoe. It wouldn't be perfect, though.

I suspect that only a more structured flat is going to help - the issue with those is that the leather is sort of squishy and the sole is very, very thin, so your foot can press the leather down to pavement level.

Another thought - you might be wearing too small or too large a shoe. The only time I've seen wear like that (also on a very expensive shoe) it was when someone was wearing a size too large and her feet were sliding around and pushing the leather around in ways that it wasn't meant to go. Those look very stretchy yet snug, so they may be hard to size correctly. I'd suggest getting yourself measured on a Brannock device at a real shoe store (you could probably pop in to an Allen Edmonds, pick up some colorful shoe laces and ask them to measure you if there's nowhere else around). Then ask the company what size they'd recommend. It may also be that those flats just aren't a good fit for the shape of your foot - this is so disappointing when it happens, and it happens more often with women's shoes (I wear men's but grew up wearing women's) because women's shoes are constructed more inconsistently and cheaply.

As far as what shoes you might try, I would suggest either a nice and structured shoe, like the flats at Duo, some flats from Trippen (their website won't let you link to specific shoes, but look at the "Closed" collection then look at the "Elk Closed"; also the "Cups"/"Women's Cups". I have ordered from them from Germany although some are available in the US. They are very reliable and good shippers. The leather is very soft and the Elk is even a little fragile) or maybe some Campers. (I have linked a goofy pair, but there are lots that are soft and have a more structured heel at the same time. You can order safely from this website - I have.) The main thing I'd look for is a more substantial sole/heel so that even if your heel pushes the leather out, it can't push the leather all the way down to rub against the pavement.
posted by Frowner at 6:46 AM on December 3, 2013


I find it interesting there is no wear on the sole of the heel area of your shoe, while the adjoining leather part is worn out. I am wondering if you are a heel striker and are not adjusting your gait for flat ballet shoes. I find that when I walk in very flat shoes, I walk with a midfoot strike and avoid landing heel first. Another possibility is a sizing issue - a pair of my ballet flats have some wear in the area adjoining the sole at the back of the heel, and in retrospect I should have gotten them a half size larger, as it appears part of the leather in the heel area is acting as some extra sole area.

On preview, Frowner has pointed out that leather being pushed into the ground aspect of some shoes.
posted by needled at 6:48 AM on December 3, 2013


I'd say buy cheap shoes. This is based on a guess you might benefit from insoles to correct your gait and insoles don't fit in flats. When I used to wear flats regularly, I'd wear them down in no time. But I've got problem feet and need custom orthotics. Its a bit of a pain to find shoes that fit and are not uber ugly but worth it, if you've got any pain problems, fyi.
posted by mkdirusername at 7:43 AM on December 3, 2013


Nthing irregular gait, probably exacerbated by shoes that don't fit perfectly. However, finding shoes that fit perfectly to compensate for an irregular gait can be difficult.
While its not useful for these shoes, you can use something like Shoe Goo to last longer between visits to the cobblers.

I'd recommend going to a shoes store if you have questions about your gait. A good one will be able to begin to diagnose how your foot rolls, and tell you what kind of shoe structure is helpful for your foot. Running shoes stores are usually the best for this, imo.
posted by troytroy at 7:57 AM on December 3, 2013


This happens to me when my shoes are slightly too large. It is also more pronounced, as Frowner says, when they're also made of thinner leather or have a less substantial heel cup.

You might also consider what your version of city walking is like--if yours is anything like mine, you may just be harder on shoes than most people are. I live in Brooklyn and walk (when it's not winter) at least a mile every day, usually more like 3-5. I go through shoes like nobody's business because of this, but I also know that my habits are very different from those of people who mostly get around by car or transit, so I buy shoes accordingly, and avoid rubber soles whenever I can. This doesn't necessarily meal ruling out ballet flats, though it does mean being very particular. These, for example, would meet my criteria.
posted by dizziest at 8:01 AM on December 3, 2013


Look at flats that have a reinforced heel or extended heel cap. Anecdotally, my Tods have held up beautifully with regular care, and the rubber nubs on the sole/heels show little wear even after years of city walking/extended driving.
posted by evoque at 10:07 AM on December 3, 2013


looks like you strike your heel down when you walk. You might have better luck switching from flats to something that has a small heel (think cowboy boot heel height).
posted by WeekendJen at 10:31 AM on December 3, 2013


Mine all do this too. Its because the hell cup wrinkles and it drags on the ground when I walk. I have super skinny ankles and heels and the heel cup is always too big on me, and I assume that's why this happens. I buy flats that are elasticated now and its solved the problem pretty well.

This is also how ally socks die in the end. I've never had any kind of footwear that didn't slip in the heel, even custom fitted ski boots.
posted by fshgrl at 10:44 AM on December 3, 2013


Response by poster: I never drive, so it can't be that, but it's interesting to hear driving is one cause.

Thanks to everyone for all the thoughtful ideas! It may be true that I just use my shoes more than average since I don't use a car to get around, but because the right shoe wasn't ruined by the amount of walking I do, it sounds like there may be hope if I can figure out what I'm doing with the left one. You've given me a lot to look into, starting with figuring out my gait and measuring my feet, shoes, and legs more precisely to see if the fit is off.

Flats with heel caps of some sort are also a great suggestion.
posted by lettersoflead at 11:13 AM on December 3, 2013


Do you drag your feet (foot?) when you walk? I used to do that and got similar weird shoe wear.

Do you often carry a bag on one side of your body? Doing this can cause some people to walk in a funny way to compensate for the swinging motion of the bag.

And, on looking at the picture again, it almost looks like the shoe doesn't fit right and your foot is sliding to the rear and your heel is almost overhanging the sole. Either because you have a peculiar gait, or one foot is bigger than the other.
posted by gjc at 7:26 PM on December 3, 2013


There may be a different fit on one foot than on the other. Some people have one foot slightly larger than the other. Sometimes shoes end up a little off in manufacturing, are mislabeled by half a size, or even end up being shipped out with two different sizes of shoe in the package.
posted by yohko at 11:04 PM on December 3, 2013


My ballet flats do this too. I blame the fact that one of my feet is slightly bigger than the other and the fit of the ballet flat is "baggier" around the smaller foot, so instead of being pulled taut around my heel, the leather pooches out and drags a little on that side.
posted by pseudostrabismus at 11:21 PM on December 4, 2013


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