How do I order a power adapter from China?
May 25, 2010 9:57 AM Subscribe
Several years ago we bought a small HD tv manufactured in China, from e-bay. The power adapter plug, the end that inserts into the tv, is now physically broken, beyond repair. How can I find a Dajing DJ-U485-12? Google search turns it up, from various Chinese companies, and translates the pages for me, but when I email I am directed to "Globalsources.com," apparently a brokerage firm. I registered with them but haven't heard from any Chinese companies regarding the adapter. I have tried to buy it in the US but can't find any sources here. Any ideas would be much appreciated! Thanks, metafilter contributors.
Response by poster: Here are the specs: (haven't found anything locally---do you have suggestions where to look online? When I google the specs I don't get anything :-( ).
AC Adaptor
Input 100-240VAC 1.0A 47-63HZ
Output 12VDC===4A MAX
posted by ragtimepiano at 10:15 AM on May 25, 2010
AC Adaptor
Input 100-240VAC 1.0A 47-63HZ
Output 12VDC===4A MAX
posted by ragtimepiano at 10:15 AM on May 25, 2010
back in the early days of computing, when I had a used computer with no power cable (before we all had 1,300 extra computer cords around), I hard wired an extension cord with the end cut off to the computer. Could you just pull the back off and hard wire a cord to the TV?
posted by HuronBob at 10:23 AM on May 25, 2010
posted by HuronBob at 10:23 AM on May 25, 2010
Careful, the output listed on the web page is 12VDC, not the 120VDC you listed above -- quite a difference.
I highly suspect that any of these are the replacement adapter. That's a search for the crucial specs. The only problem is that the plug size and polarity isn't listed on the manufacturer page; if we knew that, we could find a perfect match, but it looks like this is a standard plug size for inexpensive LCDs.
posted by eschatfische at 10:24 AM on May 25, 2010
I highly suspect that any of these are the replacement adapter. That's a search for the crucial specs. The only problem is that the plug size and polarity isn't listed on the manufacturer page; if we knew that, we could find a perfect match, but it looks like this is a standard plug size for inexpensive LCDs.
posted by eschatfische at 10:24 AM on May 25, 2010
Another option would be to go to your local Best Buy or Radio Shack and see if a universal power adapter will work. Besides the physical plug fitting, the voltage needs to match up.
posted by dyno04 at 10:25 AM on May 25, 2010
posted by dyno04 at 10:25 AM on May 25, 2010
back in the early days of computing, when I had a used computer with no power cable (before we all had 1,300 extra computer cords around), I hard wired an extension cord with the end cut off to the computer. Could you just pull the back off and hard wire a cord to the TV?
For the love of God, do not do this.
posted by schmod at 10:32 AM on May 25, 2010 [2 favorites]
For the love of God, do not do this.
posted by schmod at 10:32 AM on May 25, 2010 [2 favorites]
I'd start by taking the broken plug in to preferably a local electronics parts store, if you know of such a thing near you, but otherwise, a Radio Shack. Go to the back aisle where their parts (switches, resistors, etc) are, and look for a tip that matches. If you ask for help, tell them you're looking to replace the plug, not the power adaptor - the Radio Shack guys are likely to get all sidetracked on how they don't have the right adaptor, but what you really need is just a non-broken plug. You can then trim off the broken one, strip those wires back, and attach the new plug, keeping the adaptor (electronically sensitive part) intact. The old wires bin of your local thrift store is another possible jackpot.
On the other hand, the plug might be totally proprietary and Chinese. But it's worth a shot, especially if it seems like a somewhat normal size part, since that lets you keep the actual power adaptor and not worry about replacing with the exact right voltages.
posted by aimedwander at 10:34 AM on May 25, 2010
On the other hand, the plug might be totally proprietary and Chinese. But it's worth a shot, especially if it seems like a somewhat normal size part, since that lets you keep the actual power adaptor and not worry about replacing with the exact right voltages.
posted by aimedwander at 10:34 AM on May 25, 2010
Elaboration: Wiring a 12V (not 120!!) DC / 4A power supply to the TV should work if you know what you're doing, and get the polarity right.
On the other hand, wiring the 120V AC mains to the TV, as was suggested above, will kill you. Try to avoid this.
Fortunately for you, 12V/4A (48W) power supplies are incredibly common. If you can match up the connector type (hint: Radio Shack), you're golden.
Here's one such possibility.
posted by schmod at 10:42 AM on May 25, 2010 [1 favorite]
On the other hand, wiring the 120V AC mains to the TV, as was suggested above, will kill you. Try to avoid this.
Fortunately for you, 12V/4A (48W) power supplies are incredibly common. If you can match up the connector type (hint: Radio Shack), you're golden.
Here's one such possibility.
posted by schmod at 10:42 AM on May 25, 2010 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: WOOPS---need caffeine input!---you're right, the specs list 12VDC.
I've already tried Radio Shack and our local non-chain electric supply store to match the plug. No luck.
Thanks for the ebay link, eschatfische...The specs list "50-60 HZ"--would that be ok with the 47-63HZ" given on the back of our convertor?
posted by ragtimepiano at 10:45 AM on May 25, 2010
I've already tried Radio Shack and our local non-chain electric supply store to match the plug. No luck.
Thanks for the ebay link, eschatfische...The specs list "50-60 HZ"--would that be ok with the 47-63HZ" given on the back of our convertor?
posted by ragtimepiano at 10:45 AM on May 25, 2010
Response by poster: Schmod, the Virtual Village link looks like a very good match----but my converter says "Input 100-240VAC 1.0A 47-63HZ" so would that work with the spec of the Virtual Village one--listed at 1.5A?
I'm not nearly proficient enough to wire it directly into the tv:-).
posted by ragtimepiano at 10:51 AM on May 25, 2010
I'm not nearly proficient enough to wire it directly into the tv:-).
posted by ragtimepiano at 10:51 AM on May 25, 2010
You might want to see about getting your earlier post corrected, lest it cause people to give you dangerously wrong recommendations. If it had been correct and the TV actually wanted 120V, then you could basically just wire up a lamp cord to it. But that is likely to cause Bad Things given that it really wants 12V...
12 volt adapters are common as dirt, you'll just need to find one that can put out 4A continuously, and then get the right connector for it. Be sure to save your current adapter, since the fix may involve taking off the plug from the broken one and splicing it onto the output side of a replacement.
posted by Kadin2048 at 10:58 AM on May 25, 2010
12 volt adapters are common as dirt, you'll just need to find one that can put out 4A continuously, and then get the right connector for it. Be sure to save your current adapter, since the fix may involve taking off the plug from the broken one and splicing it onto the output side of a replacement.
posted by Kadin2048 at 10:58 AM on May 25, 2010
Response by poster: Yes, I'd like to edit the original mistaken "120v" but metafilter doesn't feature editing!
posted by ragtimepiano at 11:01 AM on May 25, 2010
posted by ragtimepiano at 11:01 AM on May 25, 2010
The specs list "50-60 HZ"--would that be ok with the 47-63HZ" given on the back of our convertor?
The 47-63HZ your convertor lists is the acceptable frequency range for the converter's input. A range of 50-60HZ is still completely appropriate for household mains, which run optimally at 60HZ. The main thing you need to be concerned about is matching the adapter's output to that of the unit you're replacing -- the plug size/polarity, the output voltage (that's the easy one), and the output amps (you can't run lower than the TV expects.)
And "I'm not nearly proficient enough to wire it directly" would be more accurately said as "I'm not foolish enough to wire it directly because it will fry the TV and electrocute me."
posted by davejay at 12:19 PM on May 25, 2010
The 47-63HZ your convertor lists is the acceptable frequency range for the converter's input. A range of 50-60HZ is still completely appropriate for household mains, which run optimally at 60HZ. The main thing you need to be concerned about is matching the adapter's output to that of the unit you're replacing -- the plug size/polarity, the output voltage (that's the easy one), and the output amps (you can't run lower than the TV expects.)
And "I'm not nearly proficient enough to wire it directly" would be more accurately said as "I'm not foolish enough to wire it directly because it will fry the TV and electrocute me."
posted by davejay at 12:19 PM on May 25, 2010
davejay and schmod are both right.
In the USA, the input frequency of mains power (ie, coming out of a power outlet in your home or office) is typically ~60Hz. This is ~50Hz in many other countries. The converter in schmod's link likely has an exact tolerance of input power at 47Hz-63Hz, intended for countries using 50Hz mains, 60Hz mains, or anything from 47 to 63Hz.
As long as you're in the USA or any other country with 50Hz or 60Hz mains, the adapter in schmod's link wouldn't pose a problem. Or you can roll the dice on one of the $1.97 ones from my eBay link. ;)
posted by eschatfische at 1:43 PM on May 25, 2010
In the USA, the input frequency of mains power (ie, coming out of a power outlet in your home or office) is typically ~60Hz. This is ~50Hz in many other countries. The converter in schmod's link likely has an exact tolerance of input power at 47Hz-63Hz, intended for countries using 50Hz mains, 60Hz mains, or anything from 47 to 63Hz.
As long as you're in the USA or any other country with 50Hz or 60Hz mains, the adapter in schmod's link wouldn't pose a problem. Or you can roll the dice on one of the $1.97 ones from my eBay link. ;)
posted by eschatfische at 1:43 PM on May 25, 2010
Response by poster: Thanks, Jessamyn, for such a quick correction!
posted by ragtimepiano at 3:00 PM on May 25, 2010
posted by ragtimepiano at 3:00 PM on May 25, 2010
Response by poster: Thanks, guys. Now how about the difference in input voltage? Original specs says 1.0A, ones on sale on websites say 4A? Is 4A ok? Not going to fry tv?
posted by ragtimepiano at 3:02 PM on May 25, 2010
posted by ragtimepiano at 3:02 PM on May 25, 2010
Best answer: Be clear on adapter input vs output.
Your current adapter has "Input: 100-240VAC 1.0A 47-63HZ"
- 100-240VAC is the voltage it will accept. Voltage is essentially how hard the electricity is being "pushed." 100-240VAC means it handles the regular wall voltage in North America (110VAC) and much of the rest of the world (220VAC). You don't have to match this exactly. You just need something that can accept the right voltage for your country.
- 1.0A is the most current it will pull from the wall. Current is how much electricity is flowing. You don't have to match this, either.
- The frequency is also showing that it handles N. American frequency (60Hz) and most of the rest of the world (50Hz). It's universal.
Your current adapter has "Output: 12VDC 4A MAX"
- 12VDC is the voltage the adapter produces. This you do have to match, because this is the exact voltage your TV expects.
- 4A is the most current the adapter can produce. Therefore, your TV expects 4A or less (and it will only take as much as it needs). Therefore, you can use any adapter that can provide 4A or more.
To sum it up, what you need on any new adapter is the following:
- Input: Correct voltage for your country, or universal (100-240VAC). Correct frequency for your country, or universal (50-60Hz, 47-63Hz). Current (A) doesn't matter.
- Output: 12VDC exactly and at least 4A.
- Plug: Same size. Same polarity. Polarity is whether the positive is inside the barrel and ground is the outside or vice versa. Your current adapter will probably have a little diagram with a circle and a dot inside. An arrow or line pointing to the dot will indicate whether it is positive (+) or ground (-). Something like this. This is the hardest part to figure out, but it's likely a standardized size and polarity.
You're probably fine buying any of the adapters linked above. They all are universal input and have the correct output voltage and current. It looks like the plug is fairly well standardized.
posted by whatnotever at 4:44 PM on May 25, 2010
Your current adapter has "Input: 100-240VAC 1.0A 47-63HZ"
- 100-240VAC is the voltage it will accept. Voltage is essentially how hard the electricity is being "pushed." 100-240VAC means it handles the regular wall voltage in North America (110VAC) and much of the rest of the world (220VAC). You don't have to match this exactly. You just need something that can accept the right voltage for your country.
- 1.0A is the most current it will pull from the wall. Current is how much electricity is flowing. You don't have to match this, either.
- The frequency is also showing that it handles N. American frequency (60Hz) and most of the rest of the world (50Hz). It's universal.
Your current adapter has "Output: 12VDC 4A MAX"
- 12VDC is the voltage the adapter produces. This you do have to match, because this is the exact voltage your TV expects.
- 4A is the most current the adapter can produce. Therefore, your TV expects 4A or less (and it will only take as much as it needs). Therefore, you can use any adapter that can provide 4A or more.
To sum it up, what you need on any new adapter is the following:
- Input: Correct voltage for your country, or universal (100-240VAC). Correct frequency for your country, or universal (50-60Hz, 47-63Hz). Current (A) doesn't matter.
- Output: 12VDC exactly and at least 4A.
- Plug: Same size. Same polarity. Polarity is whether the positive is inside the barrel and ground is the outside or vice versa. Your current adapter will probably have a little diagram with a circle and a dot inside. An arrow or line pointing to the dot will indicate whether it is positive (+) or ground (-). Something like this. This is the hardest part to figure out, but it's likely a standardized size and polarity.
You're probably fine buying any of the adapters linked above. They all are universal input and have the correct output voltage and current. It looks like the plug is fairly well standardized.
posted by whatnotever at 4:44 PM on May 25, 2010
Response by poster: Thanks, that really clears it up and solves my problem! (Found the polarity on the broken charger.)
posted by ragtimepiano at 5:52 PM on May 25, 2010
posted by ragtimepiano at 5:52 PM on May 25, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by halogen at 10:02 AM on May 25, 2010 [1 favorite]