Lined denim jacket for the small, effete gentleman
July 6, 2018 9:22 AM Subscribe
I covet and always try on Lee Storm Rider and flannel-lined Wrangler jackets at thrift/vintage stores, but they are cut wide and boxy, and I am a skinny little trans fella. Where can I get a lined jean jacket in the classic workwear style, but with a skinny fit?
I know there's lots of companies that have stuff in a classic-Americana-working-man-cowboy-wish-fulfillment style, but designed (and priced) for skinny urban hipster dudes, and I assume that's probably what I'm looking for, but I'm not sure where to start.
I know there's lots of companies that have stuff in a classic-Americana-working-man-cowboy-wish-fulfillment style, but designed (and priced) for skinny urban hipster dudes, and I assume that's probably what I'm looking for, but I'm not sure where to start.
Much of the stuff on AliExpress is cut for Asian sizes and runs slim.
posted by Too-Ticky at 9:38 AM on July 6, 2018
posted by Too-Ticky at 9:38 AM on July 6, 2018
Definitely look into the "selvedge" old-new vintage stuff made for Hong Kong and Japanese markets. The prices run in hundreds of dollars, but the quality is generally very high, and the jacket will last a long time if you hold on to it.
https://www.okayamadenim.com/collections/jacket
https://www.buzzricksons.com/jackets-c-49.html
https://www.historypreservation.com/products-page/jackets/
^I don't know if you'll find exactly what you're looking for in the above links, but it's a start.
Look for measurements in the descriptions, email the companies and ask for a pdf of all the garment measurements if you need to. Get a measuring tape (don't forget to convert centimeters to inches if necessary) and measure some garments that fit you like you'd like the jacket to fit.
If the website is specifically for the American market, the sized may not go small enough, but often the Asian website has smaller sized. I have used Google translate to read foreign language web sites for this in the past.
Ali Express and Amazon will have stuff in Asian sizes much cheaper and much lower in quality. Keep in mind that the sizes don't translate to American standards: I'm between a M and L in American Swimwear, and I wear an XXXL in Asian swimwear.
There is also the possibility of finding a skilled tailor, and having one of the boxy thrift store jackets basically rebuilt in your size.
posted by ethical_caligula at 9:52 AM on July 6, 2018 [1 favorite]
https://www.okayamadenim.com/collections/jacket
https://www.buzzricksons.com/jackets-c-49.html
https://www.historypreservation.com/products-page/jackets/
^I don't know if you'll find exactly what you're looking for in the above links, but it's a start.
Look for measurements in the descriptions, email the companies and ask for a pdf of all the garment measurements if you need to. Get a measuring tape (don't forget to convert centimeters to inches if necessary) and measure some garments that fit you like you'd like the jacket to fit.
If the website is specifically for the American market, the sized may not go small enough, but often the Asian website has smaller sized. I have used Google translate to read foreign language web sites for this in the past.
Ali Express and Amazon will have stuff in Asian sizes much cheaper and much lower in quality. Keep in mind that the sizes don't translate to American standards: I'm between a M and L in American Swimwear, and I wear an XXXL in Asian swimwear.
There is also the possibility of finding a skilled tailor, and having one of the boxy thrift store jackets basically rebuilt in your size.
posted by ethical_caligula at 9:52 AM on July 6, 2018 [1 favorite]
2nding Duluth. 2nding finding a good tailor, but the venn diagram that does denim-work and is really good has a pretty small overlap. Finding a good tailor is like a requisite if you're thrifting more than a couple times a year. You'll find a shitton of stuff that you like that you know can be made to fit. I've even had mine take down T-shirts for me.
LC King Mfg has goods that tend to be more fitted than regular workwear.
Apparently, in Europe, Carhartt is a skate brand. They only have few stores in the US that sell under the WIP label, but they have stuff that might work.
posted by furnace.heart at 10:04 AM on July 6, 2018
LC King Mfg has goods that tend to be more fitted than regular workwear.
Apparently, in Europe, Carhartt is a skate brand. They only have few stores in the US that sell under the WIP label, but they have stuff that might work.
posted by furnace.heart at 10:04 AM on July 6, 2018
They can be a bit on the pricy side, but take a look at AllSaints. They should have more lined options a little closer to the fall.
posted by theperfectcrime at 10:54 AM on July 6, 2018
posted by theperfectcrime at 10:54 AM on July 6, 2018
I would honestly buy the one you love the look of and have it tailored to fit the way you want.
Find a good alterations specialist and tell them what item you want ahead of purchase and they should be able to give you an idea of how challenging it would be to do.
posted by ApathyGirl at 12:48 PM on July 6, 2018
Find a good alterations specialist and tell them what item you want ahead of purchase and they should be able to give you an idea of how challenging it would be to do.
posted by ApathyGirl at 12:48 PM on July 6, 2018
If the smallness also features shortness, boys' sizes might make for an easier tailoring job.
posted by Iris Gambol at 1:53 PM on July 6, 2018
posted by Iris Gambol at 1:53 PM on July 6, 2018
Have you looked at the women's versions? Levi's, for example, has a lot of jackets with "boyfriend" styling but a narrower cut.
posted by veery at 4:45 PM on July 6, 2018
posted by veery at 4:45 PM on July 6, 2018
That’s what I was also going to recommend—trying the women’s classic fit. I was hoping that wouldn’t be taken as insensitive, but it *would* provide the classic look with a narrower fit.
posted by Autumnheart at 4:47 PM on July 6, 2018
posted by Autumnheart at 4:47 PM on July 6, 2018
L.L. Bean has a lined classic fit jacket on sale right now. Their fit is generally pretty boxy even in the women’s clothing but it might fit your criteria.
posted by Autumnheart at 4:51 PM on July 6, 2018
posted by Autumnheart at 4:51 PM on July 6, 2018
Trans guy here, I found one of these in the H&M boys section last year for about $20-25. I'm 110 lbs and 5' tall. Women's x-small is roughly boys' 12 or L, women's small is 14/16 or XL. Boys' are cut boxier, of course, but I don't swim in them like I do men's. From a quick glance at their site it doesn't seem like they have it currently available, but it's July.
Asos has ridiculously small men's sizes and a great return policy. I couldn't find exactly what you were looking for, but this might be close enough. They rotate stock pretty frequently so check back.
Finally, Old Navy should have these in later in the year. I wear boys size XL there.
posted by AFABulous at 8:18 PM on July 6, 2018 [1 favorite]
Asos has ridiculously small men's sizes and a great return policy. I couldn't find exactly what you were looking for, but this might be close enough. They rotate stock pretty frequently so check back.
Finally, Old Navy should have these in later in the year. I wear boys size XL there.
posted by AFABulous at 8:18 PM on July 6, 2018 [1 favorite]
By the way, women's cut jackets are very obviously Not Men's due to the curvature of the seams. It's one of those things you can tell from far away, like jeans. You may or may not be okay with this; I personally can't. They make my hips look wider. They're also going to fit weird if you've had surgery or wear a binder. I was cold tonight at my mom's house and borrowed her jacket. It's solid black, very androgynous, but when I looked in the mirror it was... not right. YMMV.
posted by AFABulous at 8:27 PM on July 6, 2018
posted by AFABulous at 8:27 PM on July 6, 2018
I'm 6'5" 192 pounds, different end of the scale but the same almost impossibility in finding items that fit. I'm real lucky in that Eddie Bauer Medium Tall fits me well but that's mostly a pain in the ass because most of their clothing looks like East Coast Golfer Dork, you've got to pick your spots.
I've had shirts tailored, I've bought shirts way too big and had them tailored to fit, I've bought womans shirts and had them tailored to fit, usually have the collars removed and the buttons moved onto the regular guys side of the shirt because it was making me loony tunes to try to button bass ackwards of what I've done for 60 years.
I have a super sweet lined black denim jacket that fits me perfect (that's like a gift from god or whatever) but the collar was shredded, bought it at a thrift shop for next to nothing, had a great tailor put a black leather collar on it, I get compliments every time I wear it. The black leather came off an old black leather couch, I cut off all the leather and then tossed the couch.
Might even be that a tailor could sew a lining inside a jacket you like; I promise you, the tailor who made that leather collar could do anything.
My point? A good tailor is your friend.
posted by dancestoblue at 2:28 AM on July 7, 2018 [1 favorite]
I've had shirts tailored, I've bought shirts way too big and had them tailored to fit, I've bought womans shirts and had them tailored to fit, usually have the collars removed and the buttons moved onto the regular guys side of the shirt because it was making me loony tunes to try to button bass ackwards of what I've done for 60 years.
I have a super sweet lined black denim jacket that fits me perfect (that's like a gift from god or whatever) but the collar was shredded, bought it at a thrift shop for next to nothing, had a great tailor put a black leather collar on it, I get compliments every time I wear it. The black leather came off an old black leather couch, I cut off all the leather and then tossed the couch.
Might even be that a tailor could sew a lining inside a jacket you like; I promise you, the tailor who made that leather collar could do anything.
My point? A good tailor is your friend.
posted by dancestoblue at 2:28 AM on July 7, 2018 [1 favorite]
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I have this in a Large/Tall and it fits so well. I love it.
If you're looking for more of a straight up jean jacket, then this. Fair warning - it takes a looooong time to break this sucker in - its durable as hell.
My entire wardrobe is basically DTC is what I'm saying.
posted by Pogo_Fuzzybutt at 9:37 AM on July 6, 2018 [3 favorites]