How should I choose a jeweler to create a custom ring?

March 27, 2017 7:20 AM

When I approach jewelers both locally, and semi-locally (and maybe online), what kind of questions should I ask. What are some red flags I should look out for?

I have a few images of a design to which I'd like to make a few small changes.

I've spoken to a few jewelers here, and haven't been very happy with the way things have gone. I feel like I'm having to pry information out of them which gives me the feeling that they're quoting me a price and hoping I don't ask any questions...

For example one jeweler responded via email (after talking in person) that there was a non-refundable $500 deposit and that they provide the estimate AFTER the CAD design was started, once they know the weight of material necessary - I had to specifically ask for more details to get the response "typically projects like these start around $2000"

Combine this with the fact that the quotes differ widely and I'm just not feeling comfortable with anyone so far.

Should I consider semi-local, aka larger cities 2ish hours away that may have more jewelers?

posted by czytm to Shopping (6 answers total)

Best answer: Are you going to local jewelry stores? If so the work may be done by someone outside the store. I would be sure the person I'm dealing with is doing the work. I would also want to see examples of their work. I stumbled on a local store that does this kind of work and takes in jobs from other local jewelry stores.
posted by tman99 at 7:39 AM on March 27, 2017

If the Chicago area is "semi-local" to you, I would urge you to go see Chris Duquet in Evanston. He's made 15 pieces for me over the years and I've always been impressed, to include his integrity, willingness to work with a budget and to explain how he does what he does. Stellar Yelp reviews, too.
posted by Short Attention Sp at 9:15 AM on March 27, 2017 [1 favorite]

I found a jeweler to make a custom ring by going around to art/craft shows (high end ones), and when I found one whose work was the kind of stuff I liked, working with them on it. I didn't come with an idea, though, I said "here are things of yours I liked and here is this old piece of jewelry I don't like, give me some sketches".
posted by jeather at 11:12 AM on March 27, 2017 [1 favorite]

Best answer: I'd start asking around for recommendations. If you're looking in San Francisco, I have a rec.
posted by radioamy at 1:35 PM on March 27, 2017 [1 favorite]

Radioamy - can you please DM me your rec? Thnx!
posted by egeanin at 10:57 PM on March 28, 2017

Best answer: 1. Do you forge, or cast pieces?
2. Can you look at my design concept and tell me if it can be made? How would you improve it?
3. If you don't have my desired metal / stones in stock, will you source samples for me?
4. Can you recommend another jeweller who could create this piece?

My favourite jeweller forges each piece, never casts. This tells me he has pride in his work, and is a true artist.

He takes the time to sketch pieces (he can do them upside-down!), and if I show him something I like that I've seen in a magazine, he offers suggestions on how to customise it so it's more "me". This tells me he cares about my opinion, gets really excited about special custom jobs, and loves a challenge.

He'll make me wait for the perfect stones: he wants me to have only the best I can afford.

I often ask him about the other jewellers in town, and he'll only speak of those he looks up to; he never disparages another business. This shows self-confidence, and class.

If a jeweller, or any professional, shows irritation or is evasive when you try to ask them questions, trust your spidey senses and move on. Good jewellers know they're making more than just a piece of jewellery when people come to them for a custom piece, and if they're being disrespectful during your first meeting, that does not bode well.

If you want his business details (he's located in Australia, but sends pieces everywhere), PM me.
posted by travellingincognito at 6:55 AM on March 29, 2017 [1 favorite]