Seattle suburbs or neighborhoods that are better than Ballard?
November 10, 2015 5:37 PM Subscribe
I've broken free of my stupid belief that living in Seattle in a "hip" neighborhood is a MUST for me, but I'm dealing with some depression/anxiety and have a hard time working up motivation to go exploring, so I need help on where to focus my attention for potential new places to live when my lease ends. Everett, Lake Forest Park, Kirkland, Bothell—never been to any of these! Barely know where they are on a map!
When I lived in Seattle last (2003-2007), I spent virtually all of my time within a few miles of the downtown core because I didn't own a car, and I never explored. I just wanted to live somewhere "cool" with fellow queer people and a lot of nightlife. Now I'm in a different life stage. I've recently moved back to Ballard—from 2000 miles away, after a breakup, because I wanted to be somewhere familiar—but it's not for me anymore (too many bros, too expensive, etc). I work from home, so commute is not an issue (!!). I do own a car, but really like walking places.
I've previously lived in Capitol Hill, Fremont, Magnolia, Wallingford, and Ballard, and spent a lot of time in Georgetown, but none of those places really appeal to me now (especially Capitol Hill, which saddens me because I'm a newly single queer lady and used to love going out there.) I don't know much about West Seattle and I've been intrigued by Greenwood, but I'd also like to explore cities outside of Seattle (suburbs? I don't know if that's what to call places like Bothell or Lynnwood, two places I know nothing about!)
My worry about moving into a suburb or smaller city in Western Washington is that I'll have a hard time making friends as an introvert, but I know the Seattle Freeze isn't a myth—I'm guessing it doesn't apply to the whole state? I'm in my early 30's now, and want a community that makes me feel welcome, even if it's just general friendliness instead of hipster stink-eye.
I'd like to find someplace that has
- Walkability: to parks, grocery stores, restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops, and pretty streets for dog walks that I would feel safe walking my dog alone after dark
- Dog parks/on-leash parks nearby, or better yet, houses with yards for rent in my budget
- Price range: up to $2000/month (preferably closer to $1500) for a large 1 bedroom or 2 bedroom (or bigger, but I don't need it). I'd like to rent for now. Difficulty level: I have an (big) dog and a cat—it's easy to find places in my price range, until I factor in pet rent & deposits, especially because I don't want to live in a big apartment building
- Safety in general is incredibly important to me. I live alone, I do a lot of stuff alone, and I am really sensitive about this (for that reason, I didn't consider Columbia City when I was moving back after looking at crime maps but am more open to it now)
- I'm a fat liberal dyke and would prefer to live somewhere where that isn't considered weird to proclaim about oneself
Things I'm not worried about: schools, jobs, and not so much public transit. I would like to be able to visit Seattle without it being a three hour drive, since I do have a few friends here and enjoy the occasional tourist day down at the Market, but I am also open to anyone saying "move to Portland". Every time I visit I find it friendly and inspiring, but I'm tired of picking up and starting over and my therapist gently suggested that maybe I could try moving 30 miles instead of 300 or 3000 before making another big move.
Sorry for any rambling, and hope I gave enough good information to get some suggestions without having been TOO specific.
When I lived in Seattle last (2003-2007), I spent virtually all of my time within a few miles of the downtown core because I didn't own a car, and I never explored. I just wanted to live somewhere "cool" with fellow queer people and a lot of nightlife. Now I'm in a different life stage. I've recently moved back to Ballard—from 2000 miles away, after a breakup, because I wanted to be somewhere familiar—but it's not for me anymore (too many bros, too expensive, etc). I work from home, so commute is not an issue (!!). I do own a car, but really like walking places.
I've previously lived in Capitol Hill, Fremont, Magnolia, Wallingford, and Ballard, and spent a lot of time in Georgetown, but none of those places really appeal to me now (especially Capitol Hill, which saddens me because I'm a newly single queer lady and used to love going out there.) I don't know much about West Seattle and I've been intrigued by Greenwood, but I'd also like to explore cities outside of Seattle (suburbs? I don't know if that's what to call places like Bothell or Lynnwood, two places I know nothing about!)
My worry about moving into a suburb or smaller city in Western Washington is that I'll have a hard time making friends as an introvert, but I know the Seattle Freeze isn't a myth—I'm guessing it doesn't apply to the whole state? I'm in my early 30's now, and want a community that makes me feel welcome, even if it's just general friendliness instead of hipster stink-eye.
I'd like to find someplace that has
- Walkability: to parks, grocery stores, restaurants, bakeries, coffee shops, and pretty streets for dog walks that I would feel safe walking my dog alone after dark
- Dog parks/on-leash parks nearby, or better yet, houses with yards for rent in my budget
- Price range: up to $2000/month (preferably closer to $1500) for a large 1 bedroom or 2 bedroom (or bigger, but I don't need it). I'd like to rent for now. Difficulty level: I have an (big) dog and a cat—it's easy to find places in my price range, until I factor in pet rent & deposits, especially because I don't want to live in a big apartment building
- Safety in general is incredibly important to me. I live alone, I do a lot of stuff alone, and I am really sensitive about this (for that reason, I didn't consider Columbia City when I was moving back after looking at crime maps but am more open to it now)
- I'm a fat liberal dyke and would prefer to live somewhere where that isn't considered weird to proclaim about oneself
Things I'm not worried about: schools, jobs, and not so much public transit. I would like to be able to visit Seattle without it being a three hour drive, since I do have a few friends here and enjoy the occasional tourist day down at the Market, but I am also open to anyone saying "move to Portland". Every time I visit I find it friendly and inspiring, but I'm tired of picking up and starting over and my therapist gently suggested that maybe I could try moving 30 miles instead of 300 or 3000 before making another big move.
Sorry for any rambling, and hope I gave enough good information to get some suggestions without having been TOO specific.
I used to live in Greenwood ~10 years ago, right behind the Safeway. Nice walkable business core, good buses.
posted by Jacqueline at 6:13 PM on November 10, 2015
posted by Jacqueline at 6:13 PM on November 10, 2015
Best answer: Seconding West Seattle and Greenwood. You could look at Edmonds and possibly Lake Forest Park. Not sure of price on Vashon but if you are OK with remote it might suit.
I only know the east side suburbs. Bothell (and Woodinville, Sammamish, Duvall, Issiquah) fails walkability. Kirkland and Bellevue fail on the bro ratio (and likely price for walkable areas). Unless you love sitting in traffic on the I-5, skip Everett. Mercer Island is cute but fails price. Redmond is too Microsoft. Generally, they are all car centric.
posted by crazycanuck at 6:19 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
I only know the east side suburbs. Bothell (and Woodinville, Sammamish, Duvall, Issiquah) fails walkability. Kirkland and Bellevue fail on the bro ratio (and likely price for walkable areas). Unless you love sitting in traffic on the I-5, skip Everett. Mercer Island is cute but fails price. Redmond is too Microsoft. Generally, they are all car centric.
posted by crazycanuck at 6:19 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
As far as other towns go, Bellingham is really nice. I grew up in the York Neighborhood (between I-5 and downtown) and it's still the ideal that I compare all other neighborhoods against.
posted by Jacqueline at 6:23 PM on November 10, 2015 [2 favorites]
posted by Jacqueline at 6:23 PM on November 10, 2015 [2 favorites]
Best answer: I would second Greenwood and West Seattle.
I know you think you're open to suburbs...but the defining feature of suburbs in this area is that they're not particularly walkable, which is #1 on your wish list. And I don't think you'll find many of your people there, either.
Other places to look - North Beacon Hill, Columbia City, Hillman City, Seward Park. But honestly, I have this feeling that you're going to settle on Greenwood or West Seattle. :)
Best of luck!
posted by leitmotif at 6:57 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
I know you think you're open to suburbs...but the defining feature of suburbs in this area is that they're not particularly walkable, which is #1 on your wish list. And I don't think you'll find many of your people there, either.
Other places to look - North Beacon Hill, Columbia City, Hillman City, Seward Park. But honestly, I have this feeling that you're going to settle on Greenwood or West Seattle. :)
Best of luck!
posted by leitmotif at 6:57 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Safety in general is incredibly important to me. I live alone, I do a lot of stuff alone, and I am really sensitive about this (for that reason, I didn't consider Columbia City when I was moving back after looking at crime maps but am more open to it now)
The only unsafe parts of seattle are in seattle. Like pioneer square(mostly at night) or maybe parts of the u district or aurora. Everyone greatly exaggerates the unsafety of the south end in a city that is, in general, very low on violent crime and it honestly comes off as some weird passed-on generational racism stuff. Also, columbia city is super gentrified now and not even "sketchy". There's been a huge exodus from capitol hill to
Greenwood has gotten SHOCKINGLY expensive as it's become the new "in" neighborhood for families. There's actually very few apartments there, and the ones that do exist are either really really crappy 50s-70s buildings in states of disrepair or gigantic brand new complexes with tiny floorplans for $$$. My partner works there, and we've considered moving multiple times(and used to live there for 6 months but sadly the landlord booted us out to sell) but would end up paying MORE than we are on capitol hill. Ballard, fremont, and greenwood are all ridiculously expensive now.
it's easy to find places in my price range, until I factor in pet rent & deposits, especially because I don't want to live in a big apartment building
I really feel your pain on this. I've gone through this multiple times. I've also watched friends struggle, like i did, to find an affordable place that allowed several pets but especially a dog in a "cool" neighborhood or in the main part of seattle. I think west seattle, as mentioned above, is a good call though. There's lots of duplexes and small landlord-owned little buildings and houses/ADUs over there. My friend rents an awesome bottom level of a duplex a block off alki for a bit more than half your budget that allows pretty much anything. It's HUGE too, for one person. Every time i idly look at places on craigslist i'm shocked at what i see over there for the prices compared to "mainland" seattle.
Another oddly undervalued neighborhood, although transit sort of sucks depending on exactly where you are, is ravenna/maple leaf/meadowbrook/anything north and east of the udistrict. I've seen entire detached cottages that allow pets within your price range. Half of it, even. There's a few places i've looked at there i really regret not renting.
As for outside of seattle itself, i actually really like shoreline. It's busable and a VERY short drive, has awesome parks, and is EXTREMELY cheap to rent in for how close in it is. Bothell is actually more expensive because of how quickly you can get to the east side and all the tech companies from there. They're also getting several lightrail stations soon. My partners parents live there, and they have quirky, awesome neighbors.
posted by emptythought at 7:32 PM on November 10, 2015
The only unsafe parts of seattle are in seattle. Like pioneer square(mostly at night) or maybe parts of the u district or aurora. Everyone greatly exaggerates the unsafety of the south end in a city that is, in general, very low on violent crime and it honestly comes off as some weird passed-on generational racism stuff. Also, columbia city is super gentrified now and not even "sketchy". There's been a huge exodus from capitol hill to
Greenwood has gotten SHOCKINGLY expensive as it's become the new "in" neighborhood for families. There's actually very few apartments there, and the ones that do exist are either really really crappy 50s-70s buildings in states of disrepair or gigantic brand new complexes with tiny floorplans for $$$. My partner works there, and we've considered moving multiple times(and used to live there for 6 months but sadly the landlord booted us out to sell) but would end up paying MORE than we are on capitol hill. Ballard, fremont, and greenwood are all ridiculously expensive now.
it's easy to find places in my price range, until I factor in pet rent & deposits, especially because I don't want to live in a big apartment building
I really feel your pain on this. I've gone through this multiple times. I've also watched friends struggle, like i did, to find an affordable place that allowed several pets but especially a dog in a "cool" neighborhood or in the main part of seattle. I think west seattle, as mentioned above, is a good call though. There's lots of duplexes and small landlord-owned little buildings and houses/ADUs over there. My friend rents an awesome bottom level of a duplex a block off alki for a bit more than half your budget that allows pretty much anything. It's HUGE too, for one person. Every time i idly look at places on craigslist i'm shocked at what i see over there for the prices compared to "mainland" seattle.
Another oddly undervalued neighborhood, although transit sort of sucks depending on exactly where you are, is ravenna/maple leaf/meadowbrook/anything north and east of the udistrict. I've seen entire detached cottages that allow pets within your price range. Half of it, even. There's a few places i've looked at there i really regret not renting.
As for outside of seattle itself, i actually really like shoreline. It's busable and a VERY short drive, has awesome parks, and is EXTREMELY cheap to rent in for how close in it is. Bothell is actually more expensive because of how quickly you can get to the east side and all the tech companies from there. They're also getting several lightrail stations soon. My partners parents live there, and they have quirky, awesome neighbors.
posted by emptythought at 7:32 PM on November 10, 2015
Best answer: Tacoma's pretty cool, actually, once you're able to stop saying it with a sneer. (I used to live in Queen Anne myself, so it's hard, I know.)
posted by ctmf at 7:42 PM on November 10, 2015 [3 favorites]
posted by ctmf at 7:42 PM on November 10, 2015 [3 favorites]
Response by poster: Just popping in to ask that my safety concern is not brushed off. I moved away the first time because a friend of mine was attacked in the daylight in Ballard walking to my house off Market. I have been harassed until I had to call the cops on Capitol Hill more than once. Friends have gotten the shit kicked out of them by homophobes on First Hill. This is not a perception problem. I'd greatly prefer a diverse neighborhood, I'm not using "safety" as a code word for white.
Otherwise, thank you for the answers and please keep them coming!
posted by the thorn bushes have roses at 8:13 PM on November 10, 2015 [2 favorites]
Otherwise, thank you for the answers and please keep them coming!
posted by the thorn bushes have roses at 8:13 PM on November 10, 2015 [2 favorites]
Best answer: I definitely believe you with regard to safety issues, but I also agree with emptythought that I don't feel half as safe in the neighborhoods you mention than I do in the medium walkable suburbs and across the bridges. Places like Capitol Hill and Belltown are murderville. Columbia City? No problem.
posted by Mizu at 8:22 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
posted by Mizu at 8:22 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
Nthing Greenwood. They have a really nice core with great local shops, plus a Fred Meyer for all your big box like needs.
Columbia City is also really lovely with the same nice business core.
posted by brookeb at 8:34 PM on November 10, 2015
Columbia City is also really lovely with the same nice business core.
posted by brookeb at 8:34 PM on November 10, 2015
Best answer: If I worked at home I would definitely look at Tacoma. Post Defiance had a recent article about cost of living there.
If you want Seattle suburbs, you might check out the North City neighborhood in Shoreline. Walkable, arts-oriented. The residential streets lack sidewalks, but it's pretty.
We used to live in the Richmond Beach neighborhood of Shoreline, which is walkable if you don't mind steep hills. And it's really scenic, with a gorgeous park and beach. It's very quiet and very focused on families with kids, which is why we left. Not our scene.
We live in Wallingford now. I love it, but it's so expensive.
Greenwood is very nice, but expensive.
posted by valannc at 8:43 PM on November 10, 2015 [2 favorites]
If you want Seattle suburbs, you might check out the North City neighborhood in Shoreline. Walkable, arts-oriented. The residential streets lack sidewalks, but it's pretty.
We used to live in the Richmond Beach neighborhood of Shoreline, which is walkable if you don't mind steep hills. And it's really scenic, with a gorgeous park and beach. It's very quiet and very focused on families with kids, which is why we left. Not our scene.
We live in Wallingford now. I love it, but it's so expensive.
Greenwood is very nice, but expensive.
posted by valannc at 8:43 PM on November 10, 2015 [2 favorites]
I live in Greenwood. It is as expensive as the surrounding area. I'm happy to chat with you about it though.
posted by k8t at 8:56 PM on November 10, 2015
posted by k8t at 8:56 PM on November 10, 2015
Best answer: +1 to Tacoma, and a little further out, Olympia is also a really pleasant town. Whenever I spend time there I wish I could stay longer. If there's nothing daily/weekly keeping you in the Seattle/Eastside area I would definitely check out Olympia, especially if you don't need to be near the airport.
I live and work on the Eastside but if I had to live on the Seattle side I'd check out Shoreline and West Seattle for sure. My experience on the Eastside in general is that it's a very, very family-oriented place. As I have a small child and another on the way, this works out well for me, but it might be less optimal for you if that isn't your scene.
posted by town of cats at 9:09 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
I live and work on the Eastside but if I had to live on the Seattle side I'd check out Shoreline and West Seattle for sure. My experience on the Eastside in general is that it's a very, very family-oriented place. As I have a small child and another on the way, this works out well for me, but it might be less optimal for you if that isn't your scene.
posted by town of cats at 9:09 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Nthing that you will want to take a look at Shoreline, west of Hwy 99. If you can handle going a bit further out, Edmonds and Lake Forest Park are pretty great too. On the making friends front, I think the secret is joining an organization you like, be it a knitting group or (Shoreline) the 32nd district Ds or a dog activity like agility. It's all pretty liberal in these areas though to get truly consistently lefty you'd want to stick with Seattle neighborhoods.
posted by bearwife at 10:54 PM on November 10, 2015
posted by bearwife at 10:54 PM on November 10, 2015
Best answer: I am in a somewhat similar position in that I am about to move back to Seattle and dismayed at how bro-y and expensive Capitol Hill and Ballard have gotten.
I would nth the suggestion to check out West Seattle. My work brought me there a few times this spring and summer and I wound up really liking it, as someone who had rarely been there when I actually lived in Seattle. Do be aware that it's a huge area and varies a lot on walkability - and of course, the most walkable areas will be the most expensive. But. Even Alaska Junction, which is extremely walkable, is less expensive than the walkable areas of North or Central Seattle.
posted by lunasol at 3:47 AM on November 11, 2015
I would nth the suggestion to check out West Seattle. My work brought me there a few times this spring and summer and I wound up really liking it, as someone who had rarely been there when I actually lived in Seattle. Do be aware that it's a huge area and varies a lot on walkability - and of course, the most walkable areas will be the most expensive. But. Even Alaska Junction, which is extremely walkable, is less expensive than the walkable areas of North or Central Seattle.
posted by lunasol at 3:47 AM on November 11, 2015
Best answer: Morgan Junction is up and coming in West Seattle, is comparable in walkability to Alaska Junction, and is less expensive. I'm pretty sure it's LGBT-friendly, since Out West bar is there.
posted by matildaben at 7:41 AM on November 11, 2015
posted by matildaben at 7:41 AM on November 11, 2015
Best answer: Ooh, this is another thread where I get to talk about how livable Shoreline is. The North City neighborhood is walkable and markedly unpretentious, there are a couple of newer apartment buildings that may or may not appeal to you. Hamlin Park and the offleash dog area south of Shorecrest High School are wonderful places to walk dogs. Light rail is coming to this part of Shoreline in 10 years or so. It's really easy to get to other areas from here, I swear it only takes me 15 minutes to get to U-village, Greenwood, or Lynnwood. Pretty liberal politically.
posted by stowaway at 9:56 AM on November 11, 2015 [2 favorites]
posted by stowaway at 9:56 AM on November 11, 2015 [2 favorites]
Best answer: Shoreline previously, recently. We have two big off-leash dog parks in Shoreline, the Burke Gilman Trail is just a mile or two thataway, and we're high in the US census when it comes to gays and lesbians (notably for settling-down couples). You'd be paying for the good schools, though, so you might get more for your money in a place where that isn't a local priority. And, just like North Seattle, we're short on sidewalks for residential streets; the city wants them, but they're too expensive to do more than a few at a time.
posted by The corpse in the library at 3:22 PM on November 12, 2015
posted by The corpse in the library at 3:22 PM on November 12, 2015
This thread is closed to new comments.
I totally feel you on the too many bros in Ballard thing. Drives me nuts, cuz there are some great places to visit and eat at in Ballard, but ugh. If I hear one more new made up term for a miniature growler I'm gonna have to take a judo class to work through my misplaced rage. Anyhoo, I think there are plenty of places with the sort of feel you are describing, including lots of Seattle suburbs. You just need to explore them. When we decided to find a house and get the hell out of Fremont and its friggin' float tank therapy holistic preschool ridiculousness, we spent a whole season visiting different neighborhoods every weekend. It was immediately apparent that West Seattle was where we wanted to be, but we hit it kinda last. Many of the other places we checked out, like Lynwood and parts of Columbia City, were great and places we considered until we came here and felt at home immediately.
posted by Mizu at 5:59 PM on November 10, 2015 [1 favorite]