Charleston Choosing
October 8, 2022 2:59 PM Subscribe
I have a milestone birthday coming up right after Christmas. My husband and I are considering a getaway in Charleston, SC the week of December 26. I’ve never been, and he hasn’t visited in a decade or more. I’ve looked at older questions about the area, but am hoping for some more recent information about hotels, restaurants, and our tentative itinerary.
I’m considering a couple of nights in the historic district, and a couple of nights at Isle of Palms or another beach. I had thought about Sullivan’s Island, but it doesn’t seem like there are hotels there…is that right? Does anyone have recent experience staying at a great hotel in the historic district or on the beach? I don’t mind splashing out if a place is truly remarkable, but generally it’s 1) cleanliness 2) comfortable bedding and 3) walkable location that I’m looking for. We will have our car, so we can drive easily from the historic district to the beach, I just can’t tell if two nights at each location would be the right call.
My husband and I are Gen X nerds who love exploring historic areas, nature, excellent food at any price point, craft beer, delicious cocktails, and being near the water. Appreciate any recs for lodging, restaurants, breweries and bars…we plan on Lenoir and probably 167 Raw, but open to any and all other food and drink suggestions. I’m from coastal NC and know temps could be mild or frigid at that time of year, but we’ll make it work no matter the weather.
I’m considering a couple of nights in the historic district, and a couple of nights at Isle of Palms or another beach. I had thought about Sullivan’s Island, but it doesn’t seem like there are hotels there…is that right? Does anyone have recent experience staying at a great hotel in the historic district or on the beach? I don’t mind splashing out if a place is truly remarkable, but generally it’s 1) cleanliness 2) comfortable bedding and 3) walkable location that I’m looking for. We will have our car, so we can drive easily from the historic district to the beach, I just can’t tell if two nights at each location would be the right call.
My husband and I are Gen X nerds who love exploring historic areas, nature, excellent food at any price point, craft beer, delicious cocktails, and being near the water. Appreciate any recs for lodging, restaurants, breweries and bars…we plan on Lenoir and probably 167 Raw, but open to any and all other food and drink suggestions. I’m from coastal NC and know temps could be mild or frigid at that time of year, but we’ll make it work no matter the weather.
Best answer: I love staying on Folly Island (scrubby surf town with some fun bars.) I stayed at Tides because I must be on the water, and every room there is ocean view. It was not fancy but clean and comfy and beachy. This was 6-ish years ago though, and I know hotels can really deteriorate in that amount of time, so I’d check recent reviews!
posted by kapers at 10:46 AM on October 9, 2022 [1 favorite]
posted by kapers at 10:46 AM on October 9, 2022 [1 favorite]
can i post this? my good, kind, and ethical friends (really not me, I promise) in Charleston have an excellent airbnb in a cool neighborhood, that might work out for you: https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/692331567357946595?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=498245c2-41f3-4f31-b67b-3790c3963148
posted by mollymillions at 8:14 PM on October 9, 2022
posted by mollymillions at 8:14 PM on October 9, 2022
Best answer: Chez Nous is my favorite restaurant in Charleston and is perfect for your special ocassion. It sounds like you're already familar with 167 Raw but just in case, they don't take reservations and unless you are waiting at the door at opening the wait will be probably 45-90 minutes depending on the day. They take your number and call you a few minutes before your table is ready, so you can go wander around the area or go get a beer or whatever while you wait.
If you do go to Folly, try Jack of Cups Saloon. They overhaul the menu seasonally so what you see on the website now probably won't be what you get in winter, but it's always really good and creative. Also on Folly, try the Lowlife Bar for good bar food, cocktails (not super crafty but good) and beer selection, and a jovial atmosphere. Due to a travel hiccup I ended up spending NYE there last year and it was a great time.
It sounds like you be there just before the opening of the International African American Museum (late January) but in the meantime the Old Slave Mart Museum is a great small history spot. For a lovely morning, go to Harken Cafe for breakfast and coffee, followed by the Slave Mart Museum, then walk down Bay St. to the Battery to sit by the water for a little while, then stroll back up King Street for the pretty houses and window shopping.
Have fun and happy birthday!
posted by CheeseLouise at 9:33 AM on October 10, 2022
If you do go to Folly, try Jack of Cups Saloon. They overhaul the menu seasonally so what you see on the website now probably won't be what you get in winter, but it's always really good and creative. Also on Folly, try the Lowlife Bar for good bar food, cocktails (not super crafty but good) and beer selection, and a jovial atmosphere. Due to a travel hiccup I ended up spending NYE there last year and it was a great time.
It sounds like you be there just before the opening of the International African American Museum (late January) but in the meantime the Old Slave Mart Museum is a great small history spot. For a lovely morning, go to Harken Cafe for breakfast and coffee, followed by the Slave Mart Museum, then walk down Bay St. to the Battery to sit by the water for a little while, then stroll back up King Street for the pretty houses and window shopping.
Have fun and happy birthday!
posted by CheeseLouise at 9:33 AM on October 10, 2022
Best answer: You're right that there are no hotels on Sullivan's. Basically the three beach options, in broad strokes, are:
-Sullivan's: most undeveloped/natural. Nice dunes, great walking. 10-ish minute drive from IOP, 30 min from downtown.
-IOP: most upscale-tourist. Local politics heavily inflected by wealthy NIMBYism, especially about parking. Not likely to be a huge issue in the offseason, though. 30 min from downtown.
-Folly: more of a funky/hippie vibe. Walkable town has lots more fun breakfast/dinner/drinks options than either of the above (Lost Dog: great brunch. Jack of Cups: good, inventive vegetarian. Chico Feo: fun, weird backyard bar with eclectic food and live music. Lowlife: great pub grub and good cocktails.) 20 min. from downtown.
As for staying downtown, if you're willing to splash out a bit, the Dewberry downtown is supposed to be quite nice and has a highly rated old-school cocktail bar inside, and also a nice rooftop bar.
For food, IMO Husk is a bit played out since Sean Brock left. For Husk-adjacent (i.e. New Southern, high-concept, hyper local), FIG is always great, but getting a reservation is hard. SNOB is also excellent. My favorite (somewhat) in this genre is the Grocery.
The beach at Sullivan's is the prettiest. I'd spend at least an afternoon there and have dinner at the Obstinate Daughter, and gelato at Beardcat's downstairs.
The beer scene has really exploded in recent years, to the point that there is a shuttle that runs Saturdays between ten (an incomplete list!) breweries. My favorites are:
-Munkle (mostly Belgian styles),
-Edmund's Oast (good sours and some weird unexpected ones; great food including a house-cured charcuterie program)
-Snafu (some really gonzo sours)
-Revelry (everything has some farmhouse funk, including non-farmhouse styles)
For cocktails taken very seriously, the Gin Joint and Proof are both quite nice.
For an unforgettable, tough look at some of the nastier parts of local history, the McLeod Plantation is unmissable.
(Source: lived here since 2014)
posted by dr. boludo at 11:59 AM on October 10, 2022
-Sullivan's: most undeveloped/natural. Nice dunes, great walking. 10-ish minute drive from IOP, 30 min from downtown.
-IOP: most upscale-tourist. Local politics heavily inflected by wealthy NIMBYism, especially about parking. Not likely to be a huge issue in the offseason, though. 30 min from downtown.
-Folly: more of a funky/hippie vibe. Walkable town has lots more fun breakfast/dinner/drinks options than either of the above (Lost Dog: great brunch. Jack of Cups: good, inventive vegetarian. Chico Feo: fun, weird backyard bar with eclectic food and live music. Lowlife: great pub grub and good cocktails.) 20 min. from downtown.
As for staying downtown, if you're willing to splash out a bit, the Dewberry downtown is supposed to be quite nice and has a highly rated old-school cocktail bar inside, and also a nice rooftop bar.
For food, IMO Husk is a bit played out since Sean Brock left. For Husk-adjacent (i.e. New Southern, high-concept, hyper local), FIG is always great, but getting a reservation is hard. SNOB is also excellent. My favorite (somewhat) in this genre is the Grocery.
The beach at Sullivan's is the prettiest. I'd spend at least an afternoon there and have dinner at the Obstinate Daughter, and gelato at Beardcat's downstairs.
The beer scene has really exploded in recent years, to the point that there is a shuttle that runs Saturdays between ten (an incomplete list!) breweries. My favorites are:
-Munkle (mostly Belgian styles),
-Edmund's Oast (good sours and some weird unexpected ones; great food including a house-cured charcuterie program)
-Snafu (some really gonzo sours)
-Revelry (everything has some farmhouse funk, including non-farmhouse styles)
For cocktails taken very seriously, the Gin Joint and Proof are both quite nice.
For an unforgettable, tough look at some of the nastier parts of local history, the McLeod Plantation is unmissable.
(Source: lived here since 2014)
posted by dr. boludo at 11:59 AM on October 10, 2022
We took a harbor tour on a schooner some years ago which was great! I believe it was the Schooner Pride tour, but it was long enough ago that I am not sure of the name of the ship.
posted by TimHare at 1:31 PM on October 10, 2022
posted by TimHare at 1:31 PM on October 10, 2022
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- Xiao Bao Biscuit
- Butcher and Bee
- Husk (chef Sean Brock has left since I was last there but it still sounds good)
For history, the wreck of the Hunley, a civil war submarine, is really interesting. And also stop by the Angel Oak tree, a 300+ year old live oak in a city park.
posted by sizeable beetle at 7:02 PM on October 8, 2022 [2 favorites]