Help me select the right Yorkshire town
January 18, 2020 3:50 PM Subscribe
Hello everyone and especially UK members: I (girly swot from New England) plan on having a solo month-long holiday this summer in God’s own country. Help me choose a town for my base camp?
Backstory, this trip is partly some sideways balm for a heart broken last year by one of your lot and also partly a test of strength in revisiting what I thought would be my home (five year relationship, residency & visa issues, he gave up) and really Yorkshire is just so beautiful and I want to walk as much of it as I can. So a ramblers friendly town.
My soft focus is the Dales and I’d like a reasonably busy middling market town - I won’t have a car so I suppose it’ll be train up to York then further out by bus? There is a budget; I’m looking for a small in-town flat (with bathtub) and close to all the usual good pubs, bookstores, coffee, local museums, canals and old mills, etc, but mostly I want ambitious walks (all day, 10 miles) out in the open to blow out my head and make new memories.
Will I be able to join up with a friendly local rambler’s group? Can I make temporary friends in pubs? Will there be enough pork pies and Old Peculier to last a month? Are there good countryside buses so I can explore further out? Hiking outfitters in case I forget something?
I’m looking at Ripon (top points for the cathedral, evensong and music) and Hebden Bridge (arts & crafts and old hippies, I hear). What’s Halifax like? They do have that Piece Hall which looks interesting. Harrogate has a train station but seems posh and mostly OAP even though I’m approaching this corner myself :-)
Any tips, good ideas, or caveats most seriously welcome - thank you! And, anyone who wants to meet up for a hike let me know :-)
Backstory, this trip is partly some sideways balm for a heart broken last year by one of your lot and also partly a test of strength in revisiting what I thought would be my home (five year relationship, residency & visa issues, he gave up) and really Yorkshire is just so beautiful and I want to walk as much of it as I can. So a ramblers friendly town.
My soft focus is the Dales and I’d like a reasonably busy middling market town - I won’t have a car so I suppose it’ll be train up to York then further out by bus? There is a budget; I’m looking for a small in-town flat (with bathtub) and close to all the usual good pubs, bookstores, coffee, local museums, canals and old mills, etc, but mostly I want ambitious walks (all day, 10 miles) out in the open to blow out my head and make new memories.
Will I be able to join up with a friendly local rambler’s group? Can I make temporary friends in pubs? Will there be enough pork pies and Old Peculier to last a month? Are there good countryside buses so I can explore further out? Hiking outfitters in case I forget something?
I’m looking at Ripon (top points for the cathedral, evensong and music) and Hebden Bridge (arts & crafts and old hippies, I hear). What’s Halifax like? They do have that Piece Hall which looks interesting. Harrogate has a train station but seems posh and mostly OAP even though I’m approaching this corner myself :-)
Any tips, good ideas, or caveats most seriously welcome - thank you! And, anyone who wants to meet up for a hike let me know :-)
We stayed in Settle last time which worked out well, altho' we were there only a few days (still have a bit of a shopping list of things remaining to do there though), train service ok, but few evening trains. But you are right up against the southern edge of 'dales!
We were able to walk up out of the town on quite lanes and find footpaths. We had some real Harry Potter experiences up there, strange just how uncanny England can be.
Giggleswick is about ?20 minutes walk from town and has the most amazing pub, The Black Horse. Weather can be a bit dreary but pubs and architecture make up for it.
posted by unearthed at 9:02 PM on January 18, 2020
We were able to walk up out of the town on quite lanes and find footpaths. We had some real Harry Potter experiences up there, strange just how uncanny England can be.
Giggleswick is about ?20 minutes walk from town and has the most amazing pub, The Black Horse. Weather can be a bit dreary but pubs and architecture make up for it.
posted by unearthed at 9:02 PM on January 18, 2020
Hebden Bridge is a gorgeous place, perfect for a walking-focused Yorkshire vacation imo.
posted by Mauve at 10:25 PM on January 18, 2020
posted by Mauve at 10:25 PM on January 18, 2020
Knaresborough and Skipton are both lovely towns, with railway stations and train connections, though not particularly cheap, and with good walking nearby, though I could certainly agree with Giggleswick, Settle and Hebden Bridge. I would also mention Sedbergh. It was in Yorkshire but is now in Cumbria, but not far from God's Own County.
posted by TheRaven at 1:22 AM on January 19, 2020
posted by TheRaven at 1:22 AM on January 19, 2020
As well as the Coast to Coast walk, there are other routes like the Dales Way and the Dales Highway, and services that will do baggage transfers for you. If you’re there for a whole month you could do one of those for a week or so, depending on the route, and still have time at a home base somewhere.
posted by Bloxworth Snout at 2:06 AM on January 19, 2020
posted by Bloxworth Snout at 2:06 AM on January 19, 2020
For a base, I am definitely another vote for Hebden Bridge. It's a nice size, it's very pretty, has reasonably good rail connections. Sizeable lefty/gay/hippie/artsy population, lots of fun events, lots of interesting independent local businesses, good music at the Trades Club.
It has good walks around but you'd probably want to do a few overnight expeditions to explore other areas. This would be true pretty much anywhere I think though, unless you based yourself in transport hub city like Leeds. Far Headingley in north Leeds is actually very nice and quite village-y in places, and due to the massive University population you can rent very cheaply there in August, but I think Hebden sounds more like what you're looking for. I'd be surprised if Hebden didn't have some rambling groups and similar to join, it's the kind of thing they do well. I'd have a look on Facebook, I bet there are some local FB groups that would be worth joining for advice. I found the pubs convivial and friendly.
A coast to coast or other organised trip with baggage transfer would be well worth a look, also self-guided tours. I have heard Contours are very good. https://www.contours.co.uk/north-of-england
Pretty much every town mentioned here is worth a visit, and I'd add Saltaire to the list for its beauty, fascinating history and top quality Hockney gallery (Another one for rainy days is the marvellous new Hepworth in Wakefield). Plus Whitby, which I like much better than Robin Hood's Bay (a bit twee for me). I agree with you about Harrogate, worth a visit to the Spa perhaps, but I find the town very up itself. Nearby Knaresborough has such a beautiful setting and you can probably do a nice walk from one to the other. The Halifax Piece Hall is beautiful and well worth a visit, also the excellent Book Case bookshop, from Hebden Bridge, has a big bookshop in the Piece Hall.
I'd consider a day or so in the Peak District also, it's very beautiful and not too far.
If you want a rest from walking / change of pace there are some lovely canals where you can go on narrowboat trips (especially around Bingley / Shipley as I remember.)
Memail me if you do end up in Hebden as I have some friends there and it's not unlikely I'll visit in August. :)
posted by tardigrade at 12:36 AM on January 20, 2020
It has good walks around but you'd probably want to do a few overnight expeditions to explore other areas. This would be true pretty much anywhere I think though, unless you based yourself in transport hub city like Leeds. Far Headingley in north Leeds is actually very nice and quite village-y in places, and due to the massive University population you can rent very cheaply there in August, but I think Hebden sounds more like what you're looking for. I'd be surprised if Hebden didn't have some rambling groups and similar to join, it's the kind of thing they do well. I'd have a look on Facebook, I bet there are some local FB groups that would be worth joining for advice. I found the pubs convivial and friendly.
A coast to coast or other organised trip with baggage transfer would be well worth a look, also self-guided tours. I have heard Contours are very good. https://www.contours.co.uk/north-of-england
Pretty much every town mentioned here is worth a visit, and I'd add Saltaire to the list for its beauty, fascinating history and top quality Hockney gallery (Another one for rainy days is the marvellous new Hepworth in Wakefield). Plus Whitby, which I like much better than Robin Hood's Bay (a bit twee for me). I agree with you about Harrogate, worth a visit to the Spa perhaps, but I find the town very up itself. Nearby Knaresborough has such a beautiful setting and you can probably do a nice walk from one to the other. The Halifax Piece Hall is beautiful and well worth a visit, also the excellent Book Case bookshop, from Hebden Bridge, has a big bookshop in the Piece Hall.
I'd consider a day or so in the Peak District also, it's very beautiful and not too far.
If you want a rest from walking / change of pace there are some lovely canals where you can go on narrowboat trips (especially around Bingley / Shipley as I remember.)
Memail me if you do end up in Hebden as I have some friends there and it's not unlikely I'll visit in August. :)
posted by tardigrade at 12:36 AM on January 20, 2020
Firstly, what excellent taste you have in holiday destinations!
Secondly, if you're going to be without a car then you will probably be relying on public transport (trains in some areas, buses in others) so take a look at what towns are well-served; the local bus network dalesbus has a good guide and map.
As to which town to base yourself in, there are a few which are smaller than you've been looking at but worth considering:
posted by vincebowdren at 8:10 AM on January 20, 2020
Secondly, if you're going to be without a car then you will probably be relying on public transport (trains in some areas, buses in others) so take a look at what towns are well-served; the local bus network dalesbus has a good guide and map.
As to which town to base yourself in, there are a few which are smaller than you've been looking at but worth considering:
- Skipton : lots of facilities, good transport links (both bus and train), though slightly outside the heart of the dales proper
- Sedbergh : in the heart of hill country, walking right on your doorstep, with good pubs and lots of good bookshops
- Leyburn : at the gentler end of Wensleydale, lots of history around e.g. Richard III's castle, a heritage steam railway, and glorious countryside Wherever you end up, enjoy your trip!
posted by vincebowdren at 8:10 AM on January 20, 2020
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Have you thought about doing the Coast to Coast walk? It's 182 miles so not too crazy over a week and a bit, and you'd see some of the Dales, Lake District and North York Moors.
posted by Jon Mitchell at 7:05 PM on January 18, 2020