Salt Spring Island over Christmas
November 17, 2014 3:07 PM Subscribe
We've have arranged a somewhat spur of the moment trip to B.C. at Christmas. The first leg will be Salt Spring Island, my mother is flying into Vancouver, we are are picking her up from there. Mostly, I think we will be staying at the place we have rented, which is 30 mins. out of Ganges in a more remote place, my mother is quite elderly, and will be content to look out at the ocean views and watch the deer while we cook Christmas meals.
This will be my first time there, and I have some questions, first, is it better to take the ferry directly from Vancouver, or to go to Victoria and then transfer to Salt Spring?
If we want to get out and do something, any favorite restaurants or other places to visit? My mother is always interested in handmade things and art. And where should we get groceries? Are there any Christmas Eve services you know of?
This will be my first time there, and I have some questions, first, is it better to take the ferry directly from Vancouver, or to go to Victoria and then transfer to Salt Spring?
If we want to get out and do something, any favorite restaurants or other places to visit? My mother is always interested in handmade things and art. And where should we get groceries? Are there any Christmas Eve services you know of?
Best answer: There are direct ferries from Tsawwassen to Salt Spring on the weekends. If your travel schedules allows, take the direct ferry.
With an elderly mother I would not transfer ferries in Victoria. The scenery on the multi-hop route is quite lovely if weather allows. I have spotted whales from the ferry in between the Gulf Islands before, unfortunately in winter this likely is not a possibility for you.
You stop in Ganges upon arrival from the ferry and get supplies. Ganges is well stocked for an island of this size. While you are there you should pick up entertainment items such as books, magazines, deck of cards, or jigsaw puzzles if you did not pack them with you on the trip.
Although the regular Saturday market is not on in the winter, the Saturday Market site does list some other craft fairs and such available near the winter holidays. It also provides a directory of artists, farms, etc. Christmas in Salt Spring highlights a few other events just before Christmas.
The grounds of Salt Spring Vineyards are nice, I enjoyed my stay there. There are a couple of other wineries that you can tour to form a loop. You did not mention if you are staying north or south of Ganges, but if you are staying north I would drive to the south end of the island, have lunch near the Fulford ferry terminal, then return north stopping at the wineries along the way. Again, call to check if they're open. Weekends are best.
The Gulf Islands are sleepy in the winter. Things will be closed altogether for Christmas. You should also check if things (aside from grocery) are open on Monday and Tuesday in general, as quite often shops and restaurants will close those days in the off-season.
Regarding spending time watching the views. Be mindful of sunrise and sunset. On Christmas Day sunrise is at 8:12 and sunset is at 4:25. There is very limited daylight. It is often cold and wet. You will need more layers than you think going outside near the beach as the wind can be quite strong. There are a lot of non-daylight hours. Plan for this, and consider "OK" dinners in Ganges on non-holiday evenings just to provide a natural extension to the day.
posted by crazycanuck at 4:20 PM on November 17, 2014 [1 favorite]
With an elderly mother I would not transfer ferries in Victoria. The scenery on the multi-hop route is quite lovely if weather allows. I have spotted whales from the ferry in between the Gulf Islands before, unfortunately in winter this likely is not a possibility for you.
You stop in Ganges upon arrival from the ferry and get supplies. Ganges is well stocked for an island of this size. While you are there you should pick up entertainment items such as books, magazines, deck of cards, or jigsaw puzzles if you did not pack them with you on the trip.
Although the regular Saturday market is not on in the winter, the Saturday Market site does list some other craft fairs and such available near the winter holidays. It also provides a directory of artists, farms, etc. Christmas in Salt Spring highlights a few other events just before Christmas.
The grounds of Salt Spring Vineyards are nice, I enjoyed my stay there. There are a couple of other wineries that you can tour to form a loop. You did not mention if you are staying north or south of Ganges, but if you are staying north I would drive to the south end of the island, have lunch near the Fulford ferry terminal, then return north stopping at the wineries along the way. Again, call to check if they're open. Weekends are best.
The Gulf Islands are sleepy in the winter. Things will be closed altogether for Christmas. You should also check if things (aside from grocery) are open on Monday and Tuesday in general, as quite often shops and restaurants will close those days in the off-season.
Regarding spending time watching the views. Be mindful of sunrise and sunset. On Christmas Day sunrise is at 8:12 and sunset is at 4:25. There is very limited daylight. It is often cold and wet. You will need more layers than you think going outside near the beach as the wind can be quite strong. There are a lot of non-daylight hours. Plan for this, and consider "OK" dinners in Ganges on non-holiday evenings just to provide a natural extension to the day.
posted by crazycanuck at 4:20 PM on November 17, 2014 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Aw, Saltspring!
There's a fantastic Christmas craft fair right in town, off Rainbow Road (yes, it's really called that), in a Mahon Hall. The fair is called WinterCraft, and it's fantastic: you'll find pottery, jewelry, art, sewing, candles... you name it. Admission is free and you can spend a good 30 minutes to an hour wandering around.
For groceries, you have the pick of two stores: Thrifty Foods, which is located right in town, and Country Grocer (which the locals call GVM), about a 5-minute drive out of Ganges. There's also a smattering of convenience stores across the island, so you won't go hungry.
For ferry travel, the Tsawwassen-Victoria route has much nicer amenities than the Tswwassen-Saltspring route (if that makes any difference). The downside of the Tswwassen-Saltspring route is that (as others have pointed out) it's a longer trip and doesn't sail as frequently. If you end up going through Victoria, do know the transfer is super easy. Just ask the ticket people in Tswwassen and they'll tell you how to do it.
For activities, Saltspring has a tiny cinema in the north end of the island. It's situated in a community hall and they play two movies a night (usually a week or two after they come out in the bigger theatres). They may have something Christmas-sy in store while you're there. Artspring is the town's local theatre; depending on the dates you're there, they might have an interesting play on. There's also the artisan Studio Tour, where you can visit the studios of local artists. Details are here. For a true Saltspring experience, don't miss a visit to the Saltspring Island Cheese factory (in the south end of the island). On your way back to town, stop off at Saltspring Vineyards and try the blackberry port. Yum! Saltspring has a brewery, too, if you're into beer.
For food, I'd recommend at least one dinner at Auntie Pesto's and perhaps some mid-afternoon munchies at Barb's Buns.
Hope you have a wonderful time!
PS: Don't expect any shops to be open on Christmas Day, and expect the grocery stores and other shops to close early on Christmas Eve.
PPS: If snow is in the forecast, consider bringing chains for your car. Seriously. The main roads will be plowed, but it can be days before the backroads are touched. Saltspring tends to get more snow than Vancouver or Vancouver Island, too. Blackouts are a thing, too... So pack a few candles in case there's a windstorm.
posted by Cat Face at 6:44 PM on November 17, 2014
There's a fantastic Christmas craft fair right in town, off Rainbow Road (yes, it's really called that), in a Mahon Hall. The fair is called WinterCraft, and it's fantastic: you'll find pottery, jewelry, art, sewing, candles... you name it. Admission is free and you can spend a good 30 minutes to an hour wandering around.
For groceries, you have the pick of two stores: Thrifty Foods, which is located right in town, and Country Grocer (which the locals call GVM), about a 5-minute drive out of Ganges. There's also a smattering of convenience stores across the island, so you won't go hungry.
For ferry travel, the Tsawwassen-Victoria route has much nicer amenities than the Tswwassen-Saltspring route (if that makes any difference). The downside of the Tswwassen-Saltspring route is that (as others have pointed out) it's a longer trip and doesn't sail as frequently. If you end up going through Victoria, do know the transfer is super easy. Just ask the ticket people in Tswwassen and they'll tell you how to do it.
For activities, Saltspring has a tiny cinema in the north end of the island. It's situated in a community hall and they play two movies a night (usually a week or two after they come out in the bigger theatres). They may have something Christmas-sy in store while you're there. Artspring is the town's local theatre; depending on the dates you're there, they might have an interesting play on. There's also the artisan Studio Tour, where you can visit the studios of local artists. Details are here. For a true Saltspring experience, don't miss a visit to the Saltspring Island Cheese factory (in the south end of the island). On your way back to town, stop off at Saltspring Vineyards and try the blackberry port. Yum! Saltspring has a brewery, too, if you're into beer.
For food, I'd recommend at least one dinner at Auntie Pesto's and perhaps some mid-afternoon munchies at Barb's Buns.
Hope you have a wonderful time!
PS: Don't expect any shops to be open on Christmas Day, and expect the grocery stores and other shops to close early on Christmas Eve.
PPS: If snow is in the forecast, consider bringing chains for your car. Seriously. The main roads will be plowed, but it can be days before the backroads are touched. Saltspring tends to get more snow than Vancouver or Vancouver Island, too. Blackouts are a thing, too... So pack a few candles in case there's a windstorm.
posted by Cat Face at 6:44 PM on November 17, 2014
Best answer: I'd recommend making a sailing route decision based on when you could get to the Ferry terminal from the airport. Check the schedule. There aren't many ferries in the winter, a morning one and an afternoon for most days.
If you're going to go through Swartz bay ask for a "thoroughfare"- this will only cost you the price as going to one of the islands. Keep the ticket they give you you'll need it on the other end. To make the transfer (by car) you've got to leave the terminal, travel for about a Kilometre, and make a turn around to get back to the terminal. It's nothing extreme but it's kind of odd heading away from the terminal. If you do go too far... Sidney does have some great used book shops.
posted by jade east at 8:05 PM on November 17, 2014
If you're going to go through Swartz bay ask for a "thoroughfare"- this will only cost you the price as going to one of the islands. Keep the ticket they give you you'll need it on the other end. To make the transfer (by car) you've got to leave the terminal, travel for about a Kilometre, and make a turn around to get back to the terminal. It's nothing extreme but it's kind of odd heading away from the terminal. If you do go too far... Sidney does have some great used book shops.
posted by jade east at 8:05 PM on November 17, 2014
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Theoretically you could shave down the time by going from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay, and then taking the Salt Spring ferry to Fulford Harbour, but that would assume there was a ferry leaving directly for Salt Spring once you got to Swartz Bay.
Ganges itself has a small downtown with a grocery store and a government liquor store, and a number of pubs.
I ate at the Salt Spring Inn the last time I was in Ganges, and it was okay.
Other MeFites who actually live on Salt Spring can probably answer better than I can, but generally speaking in this part of Canada Christmas Eve is not a holiday, but stores and restaurants close a little earlier (I think) for Christmas Day and Boxing Day.
posted by Nevin at 3:17 PM on November 17, 2014