For the Hardcore SpagBolologist

August 7, 2010 6:47 AM

FoodScienceFilter? Can anyone tell me a bit more about what's going on with the proteins in traditional Bolognese sauce?

I enjoy making traditional Bolognese sauce, but I get inconsistent results as regards the texture. In the recipes I've used, usually the ground meat is slowly simmmered in wine and then in milk before the tomatoes are added. When it's done right, the meat comes out incredibly tender and soft. But sometimes I find it difficult to hit that sweet spot --- the sauce tastes fine, but the meat's still a bit chewy.

So I'm wondering which step in the recipe is responsible for the softness --- is it the length of cooking, the acids in the wine and the tomatoes, or the milk? Is there a particular stage in the recipe where I should be sure to let it linger in order to get the softness I want?

posted by Diablevert to Food & Drink (10 answers total)

You're right in your assessment of the variables involved.

Basically, longer, higher, lower (time, heat, pH) are going to facillitate the break-down proteins.

That said, you are asking a recipe-specific question, so it would be helpful if you could post (briefly) the recipe and methods...
posted by DavidandConquer at 7:04 AM on August 7, 2010

Have to disagree with davidandconquer, You probably don't want the meat to actually boil, ever. You're braising - you want all the collagen in the meat to break down into lush silky omnomnom over very low, very slow heat, not for the muscle fibers to squeeze out all their water and then shrink shut over high. Bolognese should be cooked at a lazy simmer to achieve this - just one or two bubbles occasionally breaking.
posted by peachfuzz at 7:36 AM on August 7, 2010

Low and slow is what you want. In my experience, the meat breaks down to tender at around 190-195F, so a low simmer is required. That's the "sweet spot", at least for my recipe. I find that length of cooking varies, so I generally cook at a low simmer until the meat hits the right texture.
posted by foggy out there now at 7:49 AM on August 7, 2010 [1 favorite]

just to make a point: a slow simmer=boiling over=same temperature

the difference between the two approaches is the rate at which the sauce concentrates (and hence the temperature rises as a function of increasing solute concentration)

the muscle fibers to squeeze out all their water and then shrink shut over high [heat]

this is not correct. osmotic equilibrium is a function of salt concentrations, not heat. you're cooking it in a liquid, remember.
posted by DavidandConquer at 7:57 AM on August 7, 2010

just to make a point: a slow simmer=boiling over=same temperature

As far as I've always been told, simmering starts at around 185F, you don't hit boiling until 212F. How would you explain the difference in how the water acts if not temperature?
posted by soma lkzx at 8:27 AM on August 7, 2010

Response by poster: Well, recipe-wise, to be honest I kind of wing it a bit. I'm probably halfway between the Paupered Chef version and this America's Test Kitchen recipe. ATK is close to what I usually do, as far as procedure, but they speak of having the sauce simmer until near-dry in 10 to 15 minutes; when I've done it it usually takes a lot longer, esp. if you keep it at the "blooop.....................blooop............." level I usually try to achieve. So mine tends to take several hours, like the Paupered Chef's, and I usually add tomato paste as well, for more tomato flavor and color. Maybe half a can? Also I use ground pork and ground beef, sometimes ground veal. If I'm feeling decadent and have it on hand, I might throw some bacon or panchetta in at the beginning. And I probably add somewhat more liquid than the ATK version --- depending on pan size, sometimes 1 cup leaves some of the mix high and dry.

So --- sautée sofrito until tender, add meat, cook gently for a few minutes until not pink, dry; add milk, simmer very low until evaporated, add wine, simmer very low until evaportated, add tomato paste and a can of tomatos, simmer very low until it's the right consistency. I usually season a bit whenI add the veg and when I add the meat, and then check again at the end.
posted by Diablevert at 8:40 AM on August 7, 2010

Another variable to consider is your ground meat. Is this store ground? Often they'll toss in various cuts to grind, and only worry about the fat content. Your ground "sirloin" package may contain filet minion and smaller amounts of chuck. This would cook differently from other mixes.
posted by fontophilic at 9:09 AM on August 7, 2010

The ATK recipe is basically the same as the Marcella Hazan recipe I use, and my milk and wine steps are typically at least 30min, I'd say, but I may be cooking at too low of heat. Then I simmer it for as long as I can, 3-5hrs. I basically approach it with a BBQ mind.
posted by rhizome at 10:12 AM on August 7, 2010

Oh yeah, and I get the fattiest ground I can, lately I've been lazier and just picked up those 1lb vacuum-sealed packs of 20% ground beef at Trader Joe's. It's worked great.
posted by rhizome at 10:14 AM on August 7, 2010

just to make a point: a slow simmer=boiling over=same temperature

Not in an average cooking vessel filled with liquid.

There is a 30°F temp difference between a rolling boil and a slow simmer. In a slow simmer, only the liquid closest to the heat source is at the boiling point. The rest of the liquid is at a lower temperature.
posted by foggy out there now at 10:20 AM on August 7, 2010 [1 favorite]