Good grub in 11th District, Paris
September 28, 2015 3:46 AM   Subscribe

I'll be in the 11th in Paris in a week. I hear there's top shelf yums to be had there. Who's had them? Where should I has them? Bonus for good bars (not too swanky, not crowded, not loud, not smoky).
posted by Joseph Gurl to Travel & Transportation around Paris, France (8 answers total) 13 users marked this as a favorite
 
You really, really really should go to East Mama. Its the best Italian (i know, you are in Paris, but go with me here) food I have ever had, we considered going back a second time (we were only there a weekend) and we still talk about it (we were there in July) .
Everyone was super nice and welcoming, our server was great, and got us "secret pizza" (if you get someone nice...try to see if they will do it for you). I cannot rave about it enough. I mean, seriously, just check out their instagram (which, i still follow....even though I have no plans of going back to Pairs anytime soon)

We also went to Asiter which was super charming, and more traditional Paris. Its in a section that is not touristy at all (although also at East Mama, we might have been the only english speakers now that i think of it) and if its warm enough to sit outside its very nice. Its a more traditional French menu, and their is an amazing cheese board, but their are rules for it, and if you aren't slightly adventurous, it might not be for you.

Places we wanted to try but didn't get a chance:
West Country Girl
Le Square Gardette

Also, if you happen to find yourself in the 2nd for the night, we adored Ellsworth.
posted by zara at 5:16 AM on September 28, 2015 [3 favorites]


My parents are Paris experts. They recently put together this list for a friend of mine. Hope this isn't too much. Btw they are low key, not fussy.
Right bank:
Cafe Marly, on the terrace in the Louvre, overlooks the pyramid
Bistro Vivienne, few tourists, great for lunch, 4 rue des Petits Champs
Le Grand Colbert, great lunch, probably good for dinner too, 2 rue Vivienne
Le Tastevin, very old, good for dinner, need reservations, 46 rue Saint-Louis en l'isle. Not really on the right bank, it's on Isle St. Louis.
Angelina, tea house, 226 rue de Rivoli

Left bank:
Le Deaux Magots, famous, don't miss. Great for drinks before or after dinner. Blvd St. Germaine at rue de Rennes/Bonaparte
Le Cafe de Flore, next door to Deux Magots, equally famous
Le Dome, on Blvd Montparnasse, great seafood, elegant
Pouic Pouic, very small, it's behind the Marche St. Germaine
Cafe La Palette, 43 rue de Seine, very artsy cafe near the Beaux Arts, drinks
La Closerie des Lilas, one of Hemingway's haunts, eat outside, ask for the non-smoking section, I recommend their steak tartare. 171 Blvd du Montparnasse
La Maison du Jardin, reservations, a little more dressy, great food. 27 rue de Vaugirard
Le Petit Luxembourg, next door to Maison. Excellent for lunch, pastries are amazing, very few tourists.

Other:
Le Bon Marche, best department store, far better, less crowded than Le Printemps and Galleries Lafayette behind the Opera in the Grands Boulevards neighborhood. You should see their Grand Epicerie!
Luxembourg Gardens, one of our favorite places to sit and relax. There's an Angelina ice cream parlor on Vaugirard at the north entrance.
Gerard Mulot, 76 rue de Seine. Amazing pastries, sandwiches.
Musee Carnavalet, devoted to the history of Paris, near the Picasso Museum and the Place des Voges
posted by jeff-o-matic at 5:41 AM on September 28, 2015 [11 favorites]


In the 11th, you probably want Le Chateaubriand and Pierre Sang Boyer. At least I think those are the most interesting restaurants there right now.

For more comfort food, the aforementioned Astier and also Jeanne A and Bistrot Paul Bert.

Septime is really hot right now. (Both Cheateaubriand and Septime are tough reservations) I thought it was good but nothing spectacular.
posted by vacapinta at 5:57 AM on September 28, 2015 [1 favorite]


My traveling companion and I went to La Buvette on vacation last year after I read about it in a couple places. It's a lovely, tiny, clean wine bar/bottle shop with excellent small plates. We went in the afternoon, when there was only one other patron, but apparently at night it becomes more bar-like. I'd go back in a second.
posted by hollyholly at 6:58 AM on September 28, 2015 [1 favorite]


My favorites in the 11th and nearby in the 12th by the Marché d'Aligre:

Bistrot Paul Bert, if you want a traditional bistro experience with excellent steaks.
Le Cotte Roti, rue de Cotte, in the 12th: up-and-coming young chef, nice atmosphere.
Miel et Paprika, also rue de Cotte: nothing fancy but good food at a reasonable price.

Most recently, I lived down near Nation (rue Alexandre Dumas) so that's the area I know best. Another nice place for well done comfort food, in the 20th, northeast of Nation, is Les Allobroges.

I'm not really a barfly when I'm in Paris, but my favorite place for a drink is the lounge area in Le Train Bleu, the restaurant in the Gare de Lyon. It's a nice, quiet place for a cocktail or glass of wine.
posted by brianogilvie at 9:12 AM on September 28, 2015 [1 favorite]


It's in the 10th, but right at the bend in the Canal Saint Martin is a place called BANG! where you cook meats of various origin on a hot stone at your table. Kangaroo, ostrich, buffalo, Scottish beef, etc...
posted by humboldt32 at 9:37 AM on September 28, 2015


Seconding East Mama. I had a great brunch recently at En Attendant L'Or.
posted by ellieBOA at 10:17 AM on September 28, 2015 [1 favorite]


Seconding astier, as well as Septime. Breizh cafe was scrumptious as well, and loved Poilane L'as du Falafel in Marais
posted by beignet at 7:46 PM on September 29, 2015


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