Calling moderate to biggish wave surfers: Every time I watch a surfing video, I always notice the amount of sand suspended in the water column - aka at 1:11 of
. I know there's a lot of other things going on for a surfer to think about, but I've always wondered if surfers feel or notice sand grains in any way.
Sand can be quite abrasive. Wave action is creating that sand, and not just sand - there's a lot of good surfing breaks where there are reefs, and pieces of reef also break off, so you might get coral and shell particles, which can be quite coarse. With more energy, sand grain size is going to increase, and depending on turbulence and wave energy, there's going to be a lot of particles that are suspended in the water and saltating (bouncing) around on the bottom. There's both a lot of reworking of the sediment as well as breaking it down. So I would think surfers might notice sand just a little bit, maybe even more in certain areas or increases in wave energy.
HOWEVER, I've noticed that when I'm in surf (not as a surfer) with a lot of sand
, the only thing I'm apt to notice afterward is sand in my swimming suit. And, unless there's a surfing vocabulary word I'm missing, I've never heard surfers talk about it; even the books like The Wave
(in the section about Jaws) don't really mention it, and google searching has led me nowhere. And it makes sense that with all the other things going on - like water weight/turbulence/currents and seafloor rocks & reefs in situ
that can kill
you - a surfer wouldn't notice some mild sand abrasion. Also, you know, wet suits and rash guards. But I see a lot of sand in the water sometimes, so I can't help but wonder.
So: do surfers notice sand in the water at all?