for a big bust. A friend walked me through doing one with a bust dart, but I want to avoid frustration with this and hopefully get it right myself.
This is exactly the sort of pattern I won't fit in ready to wear so I'm keen to have a go. Here's a clearer picture of the bodice
. In RTW, I would normally have to go up a size and have the waistband loose just under my bust still. I've made a princess-seam dress with a higher neckline but it would be nice to be able to make something for warmer days, and I think this pattern would be very adaptable! However, first I need to work out how to get both the girls in there...
From the measurements, I think I would be a 14 on the waist and in the skirt, but the size 16 (the biggest size) for the bust is too small - the cut pattern piece won#t even cover my bra. The method my friend showed me to alter a top (a New Look pattern with bust and waist darts) was to draw round the piece and move the darts, and I now have a pattern which should fit when I sew it up properly. (This method made a lot more sense than the slash and spread type methods I have seen in fitting books, which really confused me.) But I can't work out how to make this piece bigger in the right way.
I have started by making the pattern piece longer at the 'shorten or lengthen' line - the back piece seems the right length, so it must be the, um, fullness at the front that's made the front bodice bit small. However, what do I do with the dart - draw it in at the top and the bottom and then connect it up?
Secondly, holding up the traced, longer piece up against me suggests it will be still too small at the top. If I want to transition down to a size 14 at the waist, how do I make a piece that's kind of an 18 at the top and a 14 at the waist - do I trace round it as my friend showed me and then kind of join up the two sizes, or would this lead to a really weird shape? And how would this affect the fit at the back - would I need to make the back part a similar 'triangle' shape to be able to sew them together properly?
It'll be a while before I can get someone to sit down with me and show me what to do, so any tips would be great - I don't want to give up on trying to make my own clothes with frustration at the fit issues.