What questions do I need to ask the seller of a bike on Craigslist?
June 13, 2010 8:56 AM Subscribe
I want to buy a bike on Craigslist. What questions should I ask the seller? I haven't been on a bike in 20+ years, so I'm looking for something cheap to get started on. Full bike details after jump.
from the ad: "70's vintage" Raleigh single-speed. Original rear rack; functioning headlight. Almost new tires, chrome chain, bmx freewheel, cruiser saddle. Upgraded 26" alloy wheels. "I personally re-dished rear." [I have no idea what that means.] "Some mild surface rust on some hardware, but overall condition: good."
from the ad: "70's vintage" Raleigh single-speed. Original rear rack; functioning headlight. Almost new tires, chrome chain, bmx freewheel, cruiser saddle. Upgraded 26" alloy wheels. "I personally re-dished rear." [I have no idea what that means.] "Some mild surface rust on some hardware, but overall condition: good."
Response by poster: Oh, right -- I'm looking to ride around the neighborhood with my kids (who are about to graduate from training wheels). I might take it to the grocery store when it's not so gd hot. I live in Houston, so we're talking flat terrain.
I am 5 ft. tall, and the ad said that the bike is for a person 5'0"-5'5". The attractive parts of the bike, to me are: cruiser seat for comfort, freewheel braking (just like when I was a kid -- couldn't get the hang of braking by hand), and the low price ($125).
I need to know what I should be asking any bike seller: "Did you fix x widget? Does y work well?" etc.
posted by Jane Austen at 9:33 AM on June 13, 2010
I am 5 ft. tall, and the ad said that the bike is for a person 5'0"-5'5". The attractive parts of the bike, to me are: cruiser seat for comfort, freewheel braking (just like when I was a kid -- couldn't get the hang of braking by hand), and the low price ($125).
I need to know what I should be asking any bike seller: "Did you fix x widget? Does y work well?" etc.
posted by Jane Austen at 9:33 AM on June 13, 2010
Freewheel braking and "bmx freewheel" doesn't make sense, it can be one or the other. It sounds like they converted something with gears to single speed, that's what "re-dishing the wheel" is about. It'd help if you linked to the ad or picture. And remember, craigslist is about bargaining, they might take a lower price.
posted by thylacine at 9:38 AM on June 13, 2010
posted by thylacine at 9:38 AM on June 13, 2010
The most important thing is to FULLY examine the bike before money exchanges hands. Don't feel pressured to buy it at all once you meet the seller, or to buy it quickly. Ride it around for a good long while, make sure things work - can you shift to and from all gears? Do both brakes work? Is the chain rusty or stretched out? Can you adjust the seat? Do the tires spin freely when lifted off the ground, and are they true (spin without any wobble)? If something is not as advertised, you should feel free to call it off or ask for a lower price.
Also, do your best not to support the stolen bike economy - this guy sounds fairly legit, since he seems to have spent some time modifying the bike, and seems to know a thing or two about bikes, but it's hard to tell.
posted by Salvor Hardin at 9:43 AM on June 13, 2010
Also, do your best not to support the stolen bike economy - this guy sounds fairly legit, since he seems to have spent some time modifying the bike, and seems to know a thing or two about bikes, but it's hard to tell.
posted by Salvor Hardin at 9:43 AM on June 13, 2010
Response by poster: Didn't want someone else to snatch it before I can get there, but what the hell:
Raleigh, unisex, vintage, single spd. - $125 (S E Houston)
Now tell me more about the BMX freewheel, if you would, please. I don't know any bike terminology.
posted by Jane Austen at 9:46 AM on June 13, 2010
Raleigh, unisex, vintage, single spd. - $125 (S E Houston)
Now tell me more about the BMX freewheel, if you would, please. I don't know any bike terminology.
posted by Jane Austen at 9:46 AM on June 13, 2010
If it looks reasonable on paper you have to see it in person to try out the fit and to inspect it. We had a thread about how to do that a while back, I remember commenting in it. It also had lots of links to other threads in it.
posted by PercussivePaul at 10:03 AM on June 13, 2010
posted by PercussivePaul at 10:03 AM on June 13, 2010
BMX freewheel = no coaster brake. The bike in the picture has hand brakes - you said you didn't want that. You can pedal or coast with this but if you try to pedal backwards to engage the brake you will just pedal backwards because there is no brake
It looks to be an older 1 speed or 3 speed that's had a new rear wheel added at some point.
A single speed is very limiting to a beginner. If you want to go you must pedal and you can't lower the gears to make up for the extra weight of groceries, hills, whatever.
Find a used 3 speed. It'll better fit what you want.
Despite appearances a wider seat is most definitely NOT more comfortable if the bike fits you correctly. If it's fit to you correctly then your femurs will, as you pedal, cause your hips to rock against the widest part fo the seat as it interferes with pedaling. That leads to massive chafing of sensitive skin. No fun,
The big wide cruiser style seats only work if you want a very upright seat position and intend to ride only very slowly. If that's you - disregard the seat comments.
Believe it or not - a hard leather seat that has been broken in to fit your posterior is the most comfortable seat you can find. Really.
Finally that frame style is called a "mixte" frame and is very convenient for casual riding. No top tube to swing your leg over - just step through. That's a frame style you'll likely want to find.
I'd pass on this if I were you.
posted by BrooksCooper at 11:17 AM on June 13, 2010
It looks to be an older 1 speed or 3 speed that's had a new rear wheel added at some point.
A single speed is very limiting to a beginner. If you want to go you must pedal and you can't lower the gears to make up for the extra weight of groceries, hills, whatever.
Find a used 3 speed. It'll better fit what you want.
Despite appearances a wider seat is most definitely NOT more comfortable if the bike fits you correctly. If it's fit to you correctly then your femurs will, as you pedal, cause your hips to rock against the widest part fo the seat as it interferes with pedaling. That leads to massive chafing of sensitive skin. No fun,
The big wide cruiser style seats only work if you want a very upright seat position and intend to ride only very slowly. If that's you - disregard the seat comments.
Believe it or not - a hard leather seat that has been broken in to fit your posterior is the most comfortable seat you can find. Really.
Finally that frame style is called a "mixte" frame and is very convenient for casual riding. No top tube to swing your leg over - just step through. That's a frame style you'll likely want to find.
I'd pass on this if I were you.
posted by BrooksCooper at 11:17 AM on June 13, 2010
Best answer: The bike as listed has two hand brakes and is singlespeed.
It's a personal preference, of course, but I'd recommend hand brakes over coaster brakes--they're more responsive and safer overall.
Singlespeed is great for flat terrain, as long as it's the right gearing for you. During your test ride, you should be able to start easily and keep a comfortable speed with a pedal cadence between 80 to 100 rpm (flat ground, not much wind). As a bench mark, "Staying Alive" is 100 beats per minute, so if you sing it and your pedals make one complete turn per beat (or just barely), it's a good gear for you. If you can't pedal that fast, you'll get sore quickly and invite knee problems. If you can pedal way faster than that, you'll tire yourself out unless you keep it easy-peasy. If the gearing is wrong, and you still like the bike, a shop should be able to change it by switching out the rear cog for around $30. Or ask the seller--he might have some other gears lying around. Keep the old gear, you might want to switch back some day.
As jon1270 said, bike fit is your first concern. With the seat height adjust to fit you correctly, your knee should be just slightly bent when the peddle is at the 6 o'clock position. If you find your hips rocking back and forth as you peddle, the seat's too high. With the seat at the right height, a proper size frame means you should have to stretch your toe out and maybe lean slightly to touch the ground. (Mostly you don't try to touch the ground while you're seated.) The height of the handlebars can be adjusted too.
Other things to check for:
A little rust is no problem, but damage to the frame is a dealbreaker. Look all over the bike for any dings or dents or lack of symmetry (don't worry about the fenders). As the seller if the bike was ever in a crash. The wheels should spin true (no side-to-side movement) and round (no up-and-down movement.) The brakes, when squeezed, should touch the wheel only on the flat surface of the rim, and should stop you quickly without any noise. The brake handles shouldn't be able to be squeezed enough that they touch the handlebars.
With the bike stopped, check for any looseness or wobble relative to the frame in the wheels, cranks, and headset (the handlebars are attached to a stem, and the tube of the stem is attached to the frame by the headset). These parts should also turn or spin smoothly, and not feel like they're bumpy or grinding.
If you don't know them, it might help learning the terms for the various parts of a bike. This can make it a lot easier to talk to the seller and any mechanics in the future.
BTW, dishing a wheel refers to adjusting the spoke tension so that the rim is centered over the hub. A wheel in good condition is true, round, dished properly, and has even tension on all the spokes. Fiddling with wheels is one of the more advanced bike mechanic jobs, so if your seller is legit that the rest of the bike is probably in good condition too. $125 is a good price, especially since the bike would fit the kind of riding you want to do.
posted by hydrophonic at 11:26 AM on June 13, 2010 [6 favorites]
It's a personal preference, of course, but I'd recommend hand brakes over coaster brakes--they're more responsive and safer overall.
Singlespeed is great for flat terrain, as long as it's the right gearing for you. During your test ride, you should be able to start easily and keep a comfortable speed with a pedal cadence between 80 to 100 rpm (flat ground, not much wind). As a bench mark, "Staying Alive" is 100 beats per minute, so if you sing it and your pedals make one complete turn per beat (or just barely), it's a good gear for you. If you can't pedal that fast, you'll get sore quickly and invite knee problems. If you can pedal way faster than that, you'll tire yourself out unless you keep it easy-peasy. If the gearing is wrong, and you still like the bike, a shop should be able to change it by switching out the rear cog for around $30. Or ask the seller--he might have some other gears lying around. Keep the old gear, you might want to switch back some day.
As jon1270 said, bike fit is your first concern. With the seat height adjust to fit you correctly, your knee should be just slightly bent when the peddle is at the 6 o'clock position. If you find your hips rocking back and forth as you peddle, the seat's too high. With the seat at the right height, a proper size frame means you should have to stretch your toe out and maybe lean slightly to touch the ground. (Mostly you don't try to touch the ground while you're seated.) The height of the handlebars can be adjusted too.
Other things to check for:
A little rust is no problem, but damage to the frame is a dealbreaker. Look all over the bike for any dings or dents or lack of symmetry (don't worry about the fenders). As the seller if the bike was ever in a crash. The wheels should spin true (no side-to-side movement) and round (no up-and-down movement.) The brakes, when squeezed, should touch the wheel only on the flat surface of the rim, and should stop you quickly without any noise. The brake handles shouldn't be able to be squeezed enough that they touch the handlebars.
With the bike stopped, check for any looseness or wobble relative to the frame in the wheels, cranks, and headset (the handlebars are attached to a stem, and the tube of the stem is attached to the frame by the headset). These parts should also turn or spin smoothly, and not feel like they're bumpy or grinding.
If you don't know them, it might help learning the terms for the various parts of a bike. This can make it a lot easier to talk to the seller and any mechanics in the future.
BTW, dishing a wheel refers to adjusting the spoke tension so that the rim is centered over the hub. A wheel in good condition is true, round, dished properly, and has even tension on all the spokes. Fiddling with wheels is one of the more advanced bike mechanic jobs, so if your seller is legit that the rest of the bike is probably in good condition too. $125 is a good price, especially since the bike would fit the kind of riding you want to do.
posted by hydrophonic at 11:26 AM on June 13, 2010 [6 favorites]
I asked a similar question a while back and received some helpful advice.
posted by MonkeyToes at 1:26 PM on June 13, 2010
posted by MonkeyToes at 1:26 PM on June 13, 2010
This is somewhat of a tangent to your original question, but I think for $125 you could do better than a '70s-era bike. Those old bikes come with numerous problems inherent to the state of bike technology 35 years ago. One example is weak brakes (esp if the rims are chrome and it's raining), and squeaky brakes since they aren't as adjustable and strong as more modern designs. Other parts just aren't as standardized as they are on newer (less than 25 years old) bikes. I think you could find something much better for about the same price that is 1986 or newer and you would be a lot happier with it.
posted by buckaroo_benzai at 8:27 PM on June 13, 2010
posted by buckaroo_benzai at 8:27 PM on June 13, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
Also, be sure to get a bike that fits you. They come in many different sizes. One that is too small will be awkward and inefficient. One that is too large will be unsafe.
posted by jon1270 at 9:25 AM on June 13, 2010