Short Gal ISO Bike on Craigslist

June 8, 2008 6:53 PM

How can I buy a bicycle sight unseen? I would like a bike for short (two- or three-mile) hops on country roads -- think quick trips to the grocery store. I know nothing about bicycles, but would like to buy used and inexpensively, with luck, via Craigslist. It will be a long while before I can get to a bike shop to get fitted. So what do I need to know/ask before I make the trek to check out a bike in an ad? There is

Fortunately, at least in this case, I am short (5'), so a teenager's bike is not out of the question as long as it's not (and I quote rhoticity) "some cupcake little girl's bike."

But I don't understand how bikes are fitted or what I should be asking sellers on Craigslist -- I'm trying to narrow down relevant specs so I don't end up driving out to see something that's completely unsuitable. Suggestions for bikes for shorter folk are also welcome. That might give me a starting point on what to look for in ads.

If it matters -- utility is more important than looks and I'll be riding on roads (bumpy, but paved). DH and I are handy although inexperienced with bicycle repair. I have looked at this and this, but, as I said, getting a professional fitting is out for now. I'm not in love with the technology of bikes -- I just need something to travel on.

Thanks, all.

posted by MonkeyToes to sports, hobbies, & recreation (12 comments total)

Shop for a bike at a store and you'll get an idea of the right size bike for you. Look for a bike with those specs on Craigslist. You're not misusing the store staff -- they have a chance to cultivate you as a customer for the inevitable products or services you'll need in future, and maybe even a new bike one day.
posted by Listener at 7:28 PM on June 8

Using a calculation like the ones here or here (bonus, women's biking site) using your inseam, you can get a pretty good idea of the frame size.

Most people posting on craigslist will either post this in numerical form. Some manufacturers also use a categorical (Small, med, large) classificiation.

For doing 2-3 mile hops on country roads I would recommend you find a crossover or "commuter" bike. They're generally a good compromise of road and mountain bikes. But really anything will work, provided your roads aren't too torn up.

good luck!
posted by JauntyFedora at 7:52 PM on June 8

Bikes are measured based on the frame. Specifically the down tube that connects the seat to the pedals. That tube starts about a foot off the ground, so take your inseam and subtract 12 and that should give you a place to start. For example, you almost certainly don't want anything larger than a 15" adult bike.

Also, children's bicycles are sometimes measured based on the size of the wheel, not the frame, so watch out for that if you're also looking at kid's bikes.
posted by Jeff Howard at 7:54 PM on June 8

And just in case... women's and men's bicycles differ primarily in the frame. The top tube is constructed at an angle rather than horizontal.
posted by Jeff Howard at 7:56 PM on June 8

If you need a number to start with, I'd say in road bikes, you should be looking at frames down in the smallest sizes, around 45cm-48cm. If you look at Trek's site for women-specific-designs, their lowest end road bike goes all the way down to 43cm, which likely has smaller wheels even and might be a little too small, but I'd agree with posters above in that you should check out a bike shop and see what kinds of things fit you, tell the shop you're still shopping when done test riding and take note of the sizes that fit well, then look for used equipment in that range.
posted by mathowie at 8:14 PM on June 8

Bikes are measured based on the frame. Specifically the down tube that connects the seat to the pedals.

You will also see "standover height" as a measure of a bike's size, when speaking of men's bikes, with a horizontal top-bar. So, if you're considering getting a small men's frame (the geometry provides more frame strength than the women's frames, which were designed to allow for skirts. Could be useful on those roads), then the standover height should be slightly less than the distance between the ground and the soft bits you'd rather not have slammed into a steel bar, i.e. your inseam exactly, most likely.

I believe that an old Raleigh Colt would fit someone of your height, if you fancy an old school British three-speed.
posted by mumkin at 8:58 PM on June 8

If you buy a bicycle that you're not comfortable riding that will turn you off from riding all together. At you're height you would probably ride a 48cm road bike or smaller. Sizing is a little more complicated nowadays because bikes have sloping top tubes and increasingly are sold in "letter sizes" S, M, L, XL. You should be able to ride any small framed bike with a sloping top tube.

You can find great bikes used, but there is also lots of junk out there. Without deeper knowledge, you're taking a gamble buying used. Going to your local bike store is a sure thing, but you'll spend more.

I've been buying and building bikes for fun for a few years now. I do most of my business on Craig's List. If there is a particular bike you're looking at feel free to send me MeFi mail with a URL and I'll take a look at it and tell you if it's a good deal or not.

Unfortunately small framed bikes command a premium on the used market (at least here in Chicago) just because there are so many shorties interesting in riding nowadays. I can tack on $40 or $60 bucks to any 48 to 52cm sized vintage road bike on size alone...

Keep doing your research, pretty soon you'll catch on. If you're going to work the used circuit, expect to go through several bikes until you find one you like. Catch and release.
posted by wfrgms at 10:08 PM on June 8

For buying used bikes, check out azpenguin's and my answer in the old question Used road bike, help!

Also, this answer in Criteria for buying a bike, about why a rider like you wants a light bike..

On second look, I think my "Things to check" list could be improved..

• Frame - I think frame problems are pretty unlikely, but.. If you find one, it is serious. Check azpenguin's answer for instructions.
• Wheel truing - spin the wheels, there shouldn't be any wobble in the tire. If you look really close at where the breaks meet the rim, the tiniest little variation is okay, less than 1/8".
• Wheel bearings - push the wheel side to side hard. It should be completely rigid. Gently rotate the wheel, it should feel completely smooth. Any grinding or roughness is a sign of warn out bearings. When you let go, the wheel should slowly turn as the heavy side (often the side with valve stem, or reflector) falls to the bottom, and it should oscillate back and fourth a little as it comes to a stop. Stopping without oscillation means the bearings (technically bearing cones) are too tight.
• Spoke tension - press on the spokes, the tension should be pretty even everywhere (tension on the gear side of the rear wheel will be higher, but still even all the way around on that side). Small differences are no big deal, but it will give you a clue about the quality.
• Other bearings - like the wheel bearings, if you apply force in 'the wrong direction' a good bearing will not move at all - it will be completely rigid. A tiny little bit of play isn't a total deal breaker. Gently rotate the peddles and the cranks about their axes. They should feel completely smooth. Any grinding or roughness is a sign of warn out bearings.
• Cables and adjustment - gears should change smoothly, of course. Also, you shouldn't have to press the leavers very hard to get gears to shift (though it will be a little harder on the front than the back). Gears shifting in one direction fine, but not shifting properly in the other direction, is a sign of warn cable housing. Break pads should spring back easily and evenly after being applied. Bend the cable housing in a few places, when it gets old it gets very stiff.
• Chain - put an inch based ruler or tape along the chain. Line up a mark with a rivet. Move along 12" and see how far past the inch mark the nearest rivet is. Sheldon Brown says 1/8" passed the mark, and the gears will be warn out.

posted by Chuckles at 11:54 PM on June 8

Bikes are measured based on the frame. Specifically the down tube that connects the seat to the pedals.

Actually, that is the seat tube. The down tube is what connects the head tube to the pedals.

For grocery-type trips, you would probably like something to carry stuff in. You could get a basket in the front, or if the bike has a rear rack, a basket or detachable pannier(s). Fenders are also good for keeping mud/rain off you and your stuff. This depends on how much clearance, or room the frame leaves for the tires.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 5:15 AM on June 9

Don't buy a bike with 27" wheels, or that has wheel rims made out of folded, chromed sheet steel. That will cut out a lot of junky bikes that are way too old and were made very cheaply. Plus, finding tires for 27" wheels is hard, and your brakes won't work in the rain with chromed rims.

Your bike should have 26" or 700c wheels, made of molded aluminum. Look at the writing on the tire sidewalls to tell what size the wheels are.
posted by anthill at 1:01 PM on June 9

If you're pretty short, it might be easy to find a bike with a step-through frame (also known as a women's frame I think?), or a mixte frame. Those are the bikes with the slopping top tube. Since the top tube slopes down on those bikes, you don't have to worry about getting an exact fit and it'll be easy to get on and off the bike even if it is a bit too big. Just make sure that you have enough arm reach to hold the handlebars comfortably.
posted by nakedsushi at 2:36 PM on June 9

Don't buy a bike with 27" wheels, or that has wheel rims made out of folded, chromed sheet steel. That will cut out a lot of junky bikes that are way too old and were made very cheaply. Plus, finding tires for 27" wheels is hard, and your brakes won't work in the rain with chromed rims.

This is slightly misleading advice.

27" wheels are indicative of an older bike, but many (most?) high quality bikes from the 70s and 80s used 27" wheels. Tires are readily available for 27" wheels, thought not in the selection as seen for 700c.

You do want to avoid steel wheels at all costs. The chances that you find a steel wheeled bike that you like are slim to nil.

Frame fit is the single most important aspect of shopping for a bike. Quality of components is second. If you have to choose between a bike that fits you with 27" wheels and one that doesn't with 700c, get the 27" wheeled bike. You can always replace wheels. You're stuck with the frame until you sell the bike...
posted by wfrgms at 12:36 PM on June 11