Best tips for installing linoleum
June 21, 2009 9:05 PM Subscribe
Please give me advice and tips for a DIY linoleum installation. First my bathroom (5' x 10'), then if all goes well the kitchen (8' x 10', so a seam).
I've already removed the 1" tile in the bathroom, though some adhesive remains on the plywood. Specific ?s: what's the best way to smooth the floor (sand down? fill up?), and how precisely smooth need it be? How does one handle seams? What about thresholds to adjoining rooms? Thx.
I've already removed the 1" tile in the bathroom, though some adhesive remains on the plywood. Specific ?s: what's the best way to smooth the floor (sand down? fill up?), and how precisely smooth need it be? How does one handle seams? What about thresholds to adjoining rooms? Thx.
I will assume you are doing vinyl not linoleum, if that's the case then there are a few
things you can do to make your job easier. Your smart to start with the 5 x 10.
1st you will need to have a clean underlayment if the one under the adhesive now is full
of glue or imperfections it may telegraph through the new vinyl get off as much of the glue
as possible if that proves to be to time consuming move on to 2nd step.
2nd You may need to install a new 1/4" underlayment (such as luan plywood)over the top of the existing plywood if it is in poor condition. To do this you will need a 1/4" wide staple gun.WATCH THIS VIDEO
Bumps and cracks in the underlayment will show through therefore joints will have to be
filled with a filler (found at most home improvement stores).
use a trowel to smooth out the filler and sand lightly any imperfections.
3rd invest in an installation kit you can get them from most places where they sell vinyl flooring these kits will cost between $15 and $20 but they are worth every penny if you have never done this before. They come with complete instructions and also a guaranty
that will pay for the vinyl if you miscut.
For the 8 x 10 kitchen you can buy a bigger piece and possibly not have a seam but it is beneficial to have an area large enough to temporarily lay it out in one piece. 8 x 10 is not to big to handle.
I hope this helps
coffee
posted by justcoffee at 10:40 PM on June 21, 2009 [1 favorite]
things you can do to make your job easier. Your smart to start with the 5 x 10.
1st you will need to have a clean underlayment if the one under the adhesive now is full
of glue or imperfections it may telegraph through the new vinyl get off as much of the glue
as possible if that proves to be to time consuming move on to 2nd step.
2nd You may need to install a new 1/4" underlayment (such as luan plywood)over the top of the existing plywood if it is in poor condition. To do this you will need a 1/4" wide staple gun.WATCH THIS VIDEO
Bumps and cracks in the underlayment will show through therefore joints will have to be
filled with a filler (found at most home improvement stores).
use a trowel to smooth out the filler and sand lightly any imperfections.
3rd invest in an installation kit you can get them from most places where they sell vinyl flooring these kits will cost between $15 and $20 but they are worth every penny if you have never done this before. They come with complete instructions and also a guaranty
that will pay for the vinyl if you miscut.
For the 8 x 10 kitchen you can buy a bigger piece and possibly not have a seam but it is beneficial to have an area large enough to temporarily lay it out in one piece. 8 x 10 is not to big to handle.
I hope this helps
coffee
posted by justcoffee at 10:40 PM on June 21, 2009 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Thanks -- however it is in fact real linoleum (either Marmoleum or Linosom, if I can find 6665 blue anywhere in Portland.) How much of your advice does that change?
I say a seam because it appears that 6'7" is the widest roll of standard linoleum that is made.
posted by msalt at 12:16 AM on June 22, 2009
I say a seam because it appears that 6'7" is the widest roll of standard linoleum that is made.
posted by msalt at 12:16 AM on June 22, 2009
It won't change much maybe just the adhesive used to install it. I would still stick with my original instruction.
posted by justcoffee at 11:15 AM on June 22, 2009
posted by justcoffee at 11:15 AM on June 22, 2009
Response by poster: One piece of advice I just got offline: IMMEDIATELY seal the linoleum after you lay it. It's very pourous and easy to stain, and the sealer works great.
Actually, I learned that same lesson (the hard way) with floor tile.
posted by msalt at 12:02 PM on June 22, 2009
Actually, I learned that same lesson (the hard way) with floor tile.
posted by msalt at 12:02 PM on June 22, 2009
Excellent, I hope you use the kit after you do you'll get the jist of cutting accurately.
Good luck with it
coffee
posted by justcoffee at 9:09 PM on June 22, 2009
Good luck with it
coffee
posted by justcoffee at 9:09 PM on June 22, 2009
Justcoffee said it all and, as an amateur who's laid a couple of vinyl floors, I recommend the kit - and making sure your lino is the right way up when you cut it. Ask me how I know.
posted by x46 at 10:22 PM on June 22, 2009
posted by x46 at 10:22 PM on June 22, 2009
Best answer: Oh, I do love linoleum!
Forbo's Marmoleum is, indeed, a bit over 6' wide. It's an excellent product and they have great tech support. Go to the website and read up on their installation instructions. Plus, they have info on staining and sealing, etc. A couple of years ago, they began including a "topshield" coating so you probably don't have to seal it. I'd check on that, just to be sure.
Disclaimer: I don't work for them, etc, but have worked on several projects where it was installed.
I worked on a day-care project where it was used throughout. It was more expensive than the horrid VCT that everyone uses, but, it's bullet-proof and anti-microbial. A subcontractor drug something across a floor and made a huge gouge in the top surface. It was remedied by sanding it smooth and re-sealing. Obviously, you cannot do that w/ vinyl.
Note that they offer a low-VOC adhesive. Go with that if you can as it's better for your health.
posted by mightshould at 8:05 AM on June 23, 2009
Forbo's Marmoleum is, indeed, a bit over 6' wide. It's an excellent product and they have great tech support. Go to the website and read up on their installation instructions. Plus, they have info on staining and sealing, etc. A couple of years ago, they began including a "topshield" coating so you probably don't have to seal it. I'd check on that, just to be sure.
Disclaimer: I don't work for them, etc, but have worked on several projects where it was installed.
I worked on a day-care project where it was used throughout. It was more expensive than the horrid VCT that everyone uses, but, it's bullet-proof and anti-microbial. A subcontractor drug something across a floor and made a huge gouge in the top surface. It was remedied by sanding it smooth and re-sealing. Obviously, you cannot do that w/ vinyl.
Note that they offer a low-VOC adhesive. Go with that if you can as it's better for your health.
posted by mightshould at 8:05 AM on June 23, 2009
Response by poster: I've been to Lowe's and Home Depot, and they had no idea what I was talking about as far as a linoleum or even a vinyl installation kit. I've also been talking with a pedigreed linoleum company (Lansing Linoleum, for those in Portland; over 100 years, family owned) and they've been supportive of DIY but don't know anything about kits either.
As it stands, we're going to install the linoleum in our bathroom, and hire Lansing to install our kitchen. Even though it's much larger, their estimate was cheaper ($1350) despite the seam because it's basically a big square (with a t-shape extension at one end), so simpler.
We're laying down 1/4" underlayment, rather than trying to scrape and fill the adhesive from the 1" tile we removed. Also making our own pattern out of rosin paper, as a friend recommended, for both the underlayment and the linoleum.
posted by msalt at 9:27 PM on June 27, 2009
As it stands, we're going to install the linoleum in our bathroom, and hire Lansing to install our kitchen. Even though it's much larger, their estimate was cheaper ($1350) despite the seam because it's basically a big square (with a t-shape extension at one end), so simpler.
We're laying down 1/4" underlayment, rather than trying to scrape and fill the adhesive from the 1" tile we removed. Also making our own pattern out of rosin paper, as a friend recommended, for both the underlayment and the linoleum.
posted by msalt at 9:27 PM on June 27, 2009
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by Think_Long at 9:34 PM on June 21, 2009