Medium-range selection of dremel and appropriate bits?
May 14, 2008 8:54 PM Subscribe
So, what's a good dremel* in the $100 - $200 range, and what kind of bits do I want for this adventure?
For the purposes of this discussion, I am using "dremel*" to indicate the genericized trademark for a "rotary tool," rather than a tool specifically made by Dremel. I'm not looking for an El Cheapo knockoff that will burn out in a week, but want to fall short from "it costs a grand and your grandson will be using it."
I have seen them from ultracheap to big, industrial-looking ones that hang from the ceiling and cost what appears to be a walloping amount. The last AskMe suggested that a flex shaft and a variable speed are all important, but what about getting the right bits?
My three intended uses thus far are:
1) Removing the finish off of a piece of wood, but still preserving the general shape.
2) Getting rid of a layer of paint/rust/and I don't know what else off of an old metal windowframe that looks pretty far gone. If it were in seawater, it would rate a sacrificial anode the size of a pumpkin. (I know, safety glasses and a mask so I don't get tetanus of the cornea or something.)
3) Generic small-scale woodworking (future use).
How long can the drive shaft be? (The window in question is up high)
Does any dremel* bit/tip work with any dremel* tool, or do you have to match them up? Am I even on the right track trying to use a rotary tool for the three uses above?
For the purposes of this discussion, I am using "dremel*" to indicate the genericized trademark for a "rotary tool," rather than a tool specifically made by Dremel. I'm not looking for an El Cheapo knockoff that will burn out in a week, but want to fall short from "it costs a grand and your grandson will be using it."
I have seen them from ultracheap to big, industrial-looking ones that hang from the ceiling and cost what appears to be a walloping amount. The last AskMe suggested that a flex shaft and a variable speed are all important, but what about getting the right bits?
My three intended uses thus far are:
1) Removing the finish off of a piece of wood, but still preserving the general shape.
2) Getting rid of a layer of paint/rust/and I don't know what else off of an old metal windowframe that looks pretty far gone. If it were in seawater, it would rate a sacrificial anode the size of a pumpkin. (I know, safety glasses and a mask so I don't get tetanus of the cornea or something.)
3) Generic small-scale woodworking (future use).
How long can the drive shaft be? (The window in question is up high)
Does any dremel* bit/tip work with any dremel* tool, or do you have to match them up? Am I even on the right track trying to use a rotary tool for the three uses above?
Is it safe to assume you have the more standard tools for #1 and #2, namely a sander and a grinding wheel? A Dremel is a pretty specialized tool and these other things serve their purposes better.
I have purchased the Dremel (name-brand) kit and it came with the flex wand and some bits. I have yet to go beyond the original bits it came with and it has performed well over the few years I've had it.
posted by mcarthey at 9:11 PM on May 14, 2008
I have purchased the Dremel (name-brand) kit and it came with the flex wand and some bits. I have yet to go beyond the original bits it came with and it has performed well over the few years I've had it.
posted by mcarthey at 9:11 PM on May 14, 2008
Response by poster: For #1 - it's a wooden statuette, about eighteen inches long, full of nooks and crannies. I don't think a sander will do it.
For #2 - I got the impression that a grinding machine was a large, stationary object. This window frame is in a wall - and I'm pretty sure it will not be coming out without dynamite. It's several inches thick and magnets stick to it easily, so I'm going with iron or some decidedly not stainless steel. It's also got nooks and crannies, which is why I have become fixated on this small tool.
posted by adipocere at 9:17 PM on May 14, 2008
For #2 - I got the impression that a grinding machine was a large, stationary object. This window frame is in a wall - and I'm pretty sure it will not be coming out without dynamite. It's several inches thick and magnets stick to it easily, so I'm going with iron or some decidedly not stainless steel. It's also got nooks and crannies, which is why I have become fixated on this small tool.
posted by adipocere at 9:17 PM on May 14, 2008
I have a Dremel-brand one, and a cheaper one (might be Craftsman) that I bought on a trip when I needed to cut off a bolt in a parking lot. The Dremel one is a lot nicer -- better grip, better switches, nicer feel overall. The cheap one sits in its box and never gets used and really I should just give it away or find a use for it. The cost difference wasn't that much, so I wouldn't bother getting a cheap one to save $10 (and I'm sure there are much nicer options than the Dremel-brand one I own, but it is more than adequate for my needs). One of them came with a flex shaft, but I've never used it. Probably 90% of what I use the Dremel for is with the cut-off discs, and 10% cleaning small things up with the little wire wheel. The kit came with a bunch of accessories and gizmos that I have never even considered using.
For your window frame, a 4" angle grinder with a wire brush wheel would be a lot faster (you may need the dremel for the tight details in the corners, though) and more fun. Lots of noise and sparks (wearing hearing and eye protection is not optional). I have a basic $30 Makita grinder that works fine; I've used lots of others and they were all about the same -- it's just an electric motor and a handle; grinding disks and wheels are found everywhere and are cheap.
The people I know who do lots of woodworking all have those hanging rotary tools (often known generically as "Foredoms," like the little ones are called Dremels, no matter who makes them) with foot controllers because it gives you a lot more control. Link. Those are more what you use at a workbench; the nice thing about a little Dremel (regardless of the actual brand) is that it is cheap and you can use it in the dirt under your car and not worry if you drop it a couple of times.
Bits are basically standard. The collets come in four or so sizes (though two are most common, and should come with any kit you buy), and are interchangeable. Here is a sample link of bits; any should work with any brand of rotary tool as long as you have the right size of collet. Around here, any good hardware store will have a big rack of Dremel bits -- unless you need something really unusual, they are not hard to get hold of.
posted by Forktine at 9:48 PM on May 14, 2008
For your window frame, a 4" angle grinder with a wire brush wheel would be a lot faster (you may need the dremel for the tight details in the corners, though) and more fun. Lots of noise and sparks (wearing hearing and eye protection is not optional). I have a basic $30 Makita grinder that works fine; I've used lots of others and they were all about the same -- it's just an electric motor and a handle; grinding disks and wheels are found everywhere and are cheap.
The people I know who do lots of woodworking all have those hanging rotary tools (often known generically as "Foredoms," like the little ones are called Dremels, no matter who makes them) with foot controllers because it gives you a lot more control. Link. Those are more what you use at a workbench; the nice thing about a little Dremel (regardless of the actual brand) is that it is cheap and you can use it in the dirt under your car and not worry if you drop it a couple of times.
Bits are basically standard. The collets come in four or so sizes (though two are most common, and should come with any kit you buy), and are interchangeable. Here is a sample link of bits; any should work with any brand of rotary tool as long as you have the right size of collet. Around here, any good hardware store will have a big rack of Dremel bits -- unless you need something really unusual, they are not hard to get hold of.
posted by Forktine at 9:48 PM on May 14, 2008
I've never found the flex shaft for my off-brand dremeloid to be all that useful (actually I think it's a Dremel™ flex shaft and some other brand motor). The tool itself is usually light and small enough it's easier to just use it directly. Variable speed, on the other hand, is very nice to have.
posted by hattifattener at 10:01 PM on May 14, 2008
posted by hattifattener at 10:01 PM on May 14, 2008
Variable speed, on the other hand, is very nice to have
Yes, indeed. Sometimes, it's even nicer to have the throttle at your feet.
posted by toxic at 11:09 PM on May 14, 2008
Yes, indeed. Sometimes, it's even nicer to have the throttle at your feet.
posted by toxic at 11:09 PM on May 14, 2008
I would get a real Dremel-brand dremel. They're a good balance of features and price. Most of them have variable speed controls, they have rubber grips in the right places, and they're generally designed by people who know what the hell they're doing. I can't say that about some of the generic knockoffs.
Sometimes you can pick up a 'kit' that will include the tool itself, some accessories (usually the flexible shaft and sometimes some other stuff), and lots of bits, plus a carrying case, for under $200. I got mine as a gift but I definitely don't think it was over $150, about two years ago.
Also, if you can find an old Dremel at a yard sale, they were built pretty well (they have replaceable carbon brushes) and use the same bits. If you want to go very low-budget, that's what I'd do. Estate sales are also a great way to buy quality tools.
posted by Kadin2048 at 11:36 PM on May 14, 2008
Sometimes you can pick up a 'kit' that will include the tool itself, some accessories (usually the flexible shaft and sometimes some other stuff), and lots of bits, plus a carrying case, for under $200. I got mine as a gift but I definitely don't think it was over $150, about two years ago.
Also, if you can find an old Dremel at a yard sale, they were built pretty well (they have replaceable carbon brushes) and use the same bits. If you want to go very low-budget, that's what I'd do. Estate sales are also a great way to buy quality tools.
posted by Kadin2048 at 11:36 PM on May 14, 2008
Regarding bits and consumables, it is fine to save money by buying those from Harbour Freight or wherever your get your cheap tools.
posted by sebastienbailard at 3:00 AM on May 15, 2008
posted by sebastienbailard at 3:00 AM on May 15, 2008
I bought a variable speed, cordless Dremel™ and the cordlessness matters less than I thought it would, so if you're looking at different features, I'd rank that pretty low.
Having said that, it was handy when I had to saw off a bike lock. (which was awesome btw - I was in the middle a busy street, sparks flying, looking for all in the world like I was unsubtly nicking a bike. No-one said a thing though)
posted by monocultured at 3:27 AM on May 15, 2008
Having said that, it was handy when I had to saw off a bike lock. (which was awesome btw - I was in the middle a busy street, sparks flying, looking for all in the world like I was unsubtly nicking a bike. No-one said a thing though)
posted by monocultured at 3:27 AM on May 15, 2008
I got my dremel brand one for $70 something with the flex tool (only used it once). The most important feature I'd look for would be variable speed with the most control. My favorite bits are the High Speed Cutters... They can be used for carving wood, and work quicker than sanding drums. Each has a sort of "personality" though that might not be immediately decipherable from just looking at it. If you look at the Dremel website, they're nice enough to let you know which bits can be purchased in a kit.
The more you use the high speed cutters (in my case) the more you want different varieties, or different sizes of ones you already have.
If your kit doesn't come with it, pick up the universal chuck (may not be the name, but it looks like a drill press chuck). To me, it's a lot easier than messing around with the different size "collets." I just keep a small box wrench on my work bench and can change out heads quickly.
The other thing that isn't covered by what you asked about, but that I love about the Dremel is the cutting wheels. I don't own an equiv. tool, and have used it to remove a kickstand from a steel bike, cut off nail heads (for the marking gauge I'm making) and even cut off a piece of fender on my car.
Make sure to check out the Dremel forums too, the company makes a point of answering customer questions, and people seem to give good advice.
posted by drezdn at 6:50 AM on May 15, 2008
The more you use the high speed cutters (in my case) the more you want different varieties, or different sizes of ones you already have.
If your kit doesn't come with it, pick up the universal chuck (may not be the name, but it looks like a drill press chuck). To me, it's a lot easier than messing around with the different size "collets." I just keep a small box wrench on my work bench and can change out heads quickly.
The other thing that isn't covered by what you asked about, but that I love about the Dremel is the cutting wheels. I don't own an equiv. tool, and have used it to remove a kickstand from a steel bike, cut off nail heads (for the marking gauge I'm making) and even cut off a piece of fender on my car.
Make sure to check out the Dremel forums too, the company makes a point of answering customer questions, and people seem to give good advice.
posted by drezdn at 6:50 AM on May 15, 2008
The Dremel website actually has a cool feature for helping you find the right bits. You just have to choose your country, click on accessories and it'll bring up an "Accessory Fast Finder" pick a random rotary tool (say 300) and it lets you select what you want to do, and with what material.
posted by drezdn at 6:58 AM on May 15, 2008
posted by drezdn at 6:58 AM on May 15, 2008
The drill bits etc are interchangeable between brands, and you can save money here. Try not to buy bits individually - you'll always get way more bang for buck in sets. I've also found it worthwhile to buy cheap second-hand knockoff-"dremel" sets that come with lots of bits, just as a source of cheap bits. If you need high performance metal-cutting bits, then there isn't any way around spending money on them, but it sounds like you're interested in cleaning/touch-up/woodworking bits, so cheap sets are probably well worthwhile.
For the actual unit, I suggest Dremel brand. There are perfectly good - or better - alternatives, but the dremels will fit the non-bit accessories, such as the drill press, the flexi-pen thing, the router, etc. Most of these accessories are not worth it (eg you can just about get a real drill press, including drill, for the price of the dremel drill press accessory), but it's nice to have the options available. And some of them will work with non-dremel brand tools, so you might be able to put that cheap used knock-off that came with your bits, to use as a drill to be permanently left in the drill press.
posted by -harlequin- at 11:56 AM on May 15, 2008
For the actual unit, I suggest Dremel brand. There are perfectly good - or better - alternatives, but the dremels will fit the non-bit accessories, such as the drill press, the flexi-pen thing, the router, etc. Most of these accessories are not worth it (eg you can just about get a real drill press, including drill, for the price of the dremel drill press accessory), but it's nice to have the options available. And some of them will work with non-dremel brand tools, so you might be able to put that cheap used knock-off that came with your bits, to use as a drill to be permanently left in the drill press.
posted by -harlequin- at 11:56 AM on May 15, 2008
This thread is closed to new comments.
The extra bits it came with were a good idea because I was also unsure of what to get. I suggest getting a combination pack. In my experience it's the bits you don't project a need for that will come in most handy. Also, you will develop a kind of dremel-sense, of where you can use such a tool where a saw or drill just isn't the right fit.
I'm pretty sure the bits are interchangeable provided you have the appropriate sized collet (adapter). Mine came with a set ranging from about 1/16" to about 1/4". They are like the tapered collets for mills or lathes.
Oh yeah, and pay attention to the direction of rotation so you can figure out which was it will throw chips and sparks. Glasses are great but if you're a flincher you might do some inadvertent damage to your work piece.
posted by KevCed at 9:09 PM on May 14, 2008