How do I properly clean and tune a newly purchased, but second-hand, acoustic guitar?
January 29, 2007 6:58 AM Subscribe
How do I properly clean and tune a newly purchased, but second-hand, acoustic guitar?
I recently purchased a Yamaha FG-150 acoustic guitar second-hand. It was originally made and purchased in the early 70s, and has some signs of wear and tear, but the current owner never learned how to play, and from what I gather it's spent the last few years just sitting in the case. The current condition is quite good - the finish looks great with a few nicks and some grime, and it still sounds terrific after tuning the old strings. However, I have never purchased or owned an old instrument like this before, so I'm looking for tips on how to properly clean it and make sure it's in good shape.
Specifically:
- What is a good cleaner/polish to use for old wood like this? I believe the top is spruce and the back and sides are mahogany, with a rosewood fretboard.
- Is there anything I should be specifically careful about when replacing the strings?
- What else should I look for? Is it worth bringing it to a local music store to check it out thoroughly?
I recently purchased a Yamaha FG-150 acoustic guitar second-hand. It was originally made and purchased in the early 70s, and has some signs of wear and tear, but the current owner never learned how to play, and from what I gather it's spent the last few years just sitting in the case. The current condition is quite good - the finish looks great with a few nicks and some grime, and it still sounds terrific after tuning the old strings. However, I have never purchased or owned an old instrument like this before, so I'm looking for tips on how to properly clean it and make sure it's in good shape.
Specifically:
- What is a good cleaner/polish to use for old wood like this? I believe the top is spruce and the back and sides are mahogany, with a rosewood fretboard.
- Is there anything I should be specifically careful about when replacing the strings?
- What else should I look for? Is it worth bringing it to a local music store to check it out thoroughly?
1. If it was sitting for a long time with the strings on and in tune (or partially in tune), you may want to bring it to a local instrument repair shop to see if the neck is warped. Many a closeted instruments have been ruined in this fashion. On the other hand, if you can play a note and have it sound clearly (no buzzing or dead notes) on every fret on every string, you're probably ok. Just something to be aware of.
2. Check for bowing where the bridge attaches to the body. If you look at it from the side, you can get a sense of how much tension is on the bridge as the top will look bowed. From a web page:
Bulging of the top behind the bridge can be an inevitable and natural process of the top flexing up over the years While some "flattop" guitars are built with some arch in the top ( Gibsons for example), others, including Martins are built relatively flat Those that are built flat can tend to flex up over time, and this bulging occurs directly behind the bridge. An inspection of the interior bracing shows that everything is intact,no loose braces. In this case, if the string height is able to be set a a comfortable height, there is no need for concern. However, if the bulging is more to one side than the other it is often the case that a brace has come loose and it must be re glued This will usually bring the bulge back down. To summarize, a guitar with a bulge in the top must be inspected for loose top braces. Loose braces must be re glued. If the braces are intact and the guitar is playable, do nothing. If the string height cannot be lowered to a comfortable height, a neck re-set may be indicated if the guitar is worth the expense ( See neck reset article). It is not recommended that a top be heated to counteract a bulge, although it has been done.
3. For cleaning, I've used any number of household lemon-based wood cleaners. I've never had an issue with these. Go easy on them though. For all my rosewood fretboards I swear by a product called "Guitar Honey." It's a rosewood reconditioner which, if I'm not mistaken, was recommended to me here on AskMe. I've used it for a year and it really brings out the nice darkness of the rosewood.
4. Enjoy your new instrument!
posted by KevinSkomsvold at 7:25 AM on January 29, 2007
2. Check for bowing where the bridge attaches to the body. If you look at it from the side, you can get a sense of how much tension is on the bridge as the top will look bowed. From a web page:
Bulging of the top behind the bridge can be an inevitable and natural process of the top flexing up over the years While some "flattop" guitars are built with some arch in the top ( Gibsons for example), others, including Martins are built relatively flat Those that are built flat can tend to flex up over time, and this bulging occurs directly behind the bridge. An inspection of the interior bracing shows that everything is intact,no loose braces. In this case, if the string height is able to be set a a comfortable height, there is no need for concern. However, if the bulging is more to one side than the other it is often the case that a brace has come loose and it must be re glued This will usually bring the bulge back down. To summarize, a guitar with a bulge in the top must be inspected for loose top braces. Loose braces must be re glued. If the braces are intact and the guitar is playable, do nothing. If the string height cannot be lowered to a comfortable height, a neck re-set may be indicated if the guitar is worth the expense ( See neck reset article). It is not recommended that a top be heated to counteract a bulge, although it has been done.
3. For cleaning, I've used any number of household lemon-based wood cleaners. I've never had an issue with these. Go easy on them though. For all my rosewood fretboards I swear by a product called "Guitar Honey." It's a rosewood reconditioner which, if I'm not mistaken, was recommended to me here on AskMe. I've used it for a year and it really brings out the nice darkness of the rosewood.
4. Enjoy your new instrument!
posted by KevinSkomsvold at 7:25 AM on January 29, 2007
i use rubbing alcohol and a cloth the clean the strings on my guitar (although at this point you need new strings), and regular wood cleaners for the house will work fine for the body and neck.
re: warped neck- The neck can be adjusted if it isn't too warped, it just takes a hex wrench...although you might want to have a professinoal do it.
posted by unreasonable at 8:56 AM on January 29, 2007
re: warped neck- The neck can be adjusted if it isn't too warped, it just takes a hex wrench...although you might want to have a professinoal do it.
posted by unreasonable at 8:56 AM on January 29, 2007
Apologies if these tips are too basic--I don't know whether you're new to guitar-owning in general, or just to having an old instrument.
It's a good move replace one string at a time rather than taking them all off at once. This maintains a more constant stress on the neck and makes it easier to retune.
Feel along the edges of the fretboard--do the ends of frets protrude the edge of the wood? This usually means the rosewood has shrunk over time as it dried. Guitar stores sell little dohickeys that hold a small amount of water to raise the humidity inside your guitar case; I don't know if that will work if the wood has been dry for years, though.
To see if the neck needs adjusting, line up your eye with the headstock and sight down the neck. Is the edge of the wood parallel to the strings? For most acoustics, there should be a very very slight concave bowing down the length of the neck--this is called the relief. I can see when the relief is correct, but I have serious guitar-playing friends with better eyesight who can't tell, so ymmv. Also fret each string all the way down to see if any of them buzz in strange places--that's another good sign that the neck may not be bent correctly. If the truss rod needs adjustment, you can do it yourself on most acoustics (google searches should tell you now), but if you're new to the task it's probaby a good idea to get a professional to show you how and how much to turn the rod.
posted by hippugeek at 9:10 AM on January 29, 2007
It's a good move replace one string at a time rather than taking them all off at once. This maintains a more constant stress on the neck and makes it easier to retune.
Feel along the edges of the fretboard--do the ends of frets protrude the edge of the wood? This usually means the rosewood has shrunk over time as it dried. Guitar stores sell little dohickeys that hold a small amount of water to raise the humidity inside your guitar case; I don't know if that will work if the wood has been dry for years, though.
To see if the neck needs adjusting, line up your eye with the headstock and sight down the neck. Is the edge of the wood parallel to the strings? For most acoustics, there should be a very very slight concave bowing down the length of the neck--this is called the relief. I can see when the relief is correct, but I have serious guitar-playing friends with better eyesight who can't tell, so ymmv. Also fret each string all the way down to see if any of them buzz in strange places--that's another good sign that the neck may not be bent correctly. If the truss rod needs adjustment, you can do it yourself on most acoustics (google searches should tell you now), but if you're new to the task it's probaby a good idea to get a professional to show you how and how much to turn the rod.
posted by hippugeek at 9:10 AM on January 29, 2007
Lemon Pledge is best for cleaning AND polishing your guitar.
posted by wsg at 9:21 AM on January 29, 2007
posted by wsg at 9:21 AM on January 29, 2007
I also use lemon pledge sprayed on a cloth - lightly dampened, not soaking wet - and then gentle wiping. The pledge dissolves most grime; light rubbing with the soft cloth can often get the rest of it off. The only other things I might use are breath and saliva, and maybe a fingernail for really stubborn stuff. You don't want to leave big scratches.
You might want to get a guitar humidifier and leave it in the guitar, in the case, for a month or two before you change the strings. When you do change them, do it one at a time. This reduces the chance of a sudden change in tension causing your nice spruce top to crack.
posted by ikkyu2 at 11:16 AM on January 29, 2007
You might want to get a guitar humidifier and leave it in the guitar, in the case, for a month or two before you change the strings. When you do change them, do it one at a time. This reduces the chance of a sudden change in tension causing your nice spruce top to crack.
posted by ikkyu2 at 11:16 AM on January 29, 2007
I'd recommend changing the strings now... I do it every time I get a new guitar (too often...) and it makes a world of difference. Martin SPs + the howto article on about.com does the trick.
posted by tmcw at 2:18 PM on January 29, 2007
posted by tmcw at 2:18 PM on January 29, 2007
New strings is number one priority. A set of cheap new strings will sound better than expensive old ones. Even without being played, strings oxidise in the air and become duller sounding within a few days. If I'm gigging I change my strings for every show. If I'm recording a band - acoustic or electric - the first thing I do is make them put new strings on. It really does make a world of difference.
You should try and use strings of the same gauge - heavier gauge strings will create more of a bow in the neck, raising the strings away from the frets and making the guitar harder to play. Lighter gauge strings will loosen the tension on the neck and the strings may actually touch the frets in places. This neck tension is adjusted by tightening and loosening the truss rod.
As for cleaning, many luthiers say to just leave it as is and let the patina build up as "character". I myself use Milsek applied very sparingly. Some say never to oil your guitar, but Milsek cleans the grime and keeps the wood moist, though this may be applicable only to my climate (hot).
(An electric bass guitar is a different beast altogether - the older the srings the better! It's a bad day when a bass strings breaks and you have to replace it, making that string stand out brighter than Chris Squire's bass through a transistor radio...)
posted by TiredStarling at 4:52 PM on January 29, 2007
You should try and use strings of the same gauge - heavier gauge strings will create more of a bow in the neck, raising the strings away from the frets and making the guitar harder to play. Lighter gauge strings will loosen the tension on the neck and the strings may actually touch the frets in places. This neck tension is adjusted by tightening and loosening the truss rod.
As for cleaning, many luthiers say to just leave it as is and let the patina build up as "character". I myself use Milsek applied very sparingly. Some say never to oil your guitar, but Milsek cleans the grime and keeps the wood moist, though this may be applicable only to my climate (hot).
(An electric bass guitar is a different beast altogether - the older the srings the better! It's a bad day when a bass strings breaks and you have to replace it, making that string stand out brighter than Chris Squire's bass through a transistor radio...)
posted by TiredStarling at 4:52 PM on January 29, 2007
You should try and use strings of the same gauge
What I meant was "You should try and use strings of the same gauge as are on the guitar now."
posted by TiredStarling at 4:54 PM on January 29, 2007
What I meant was "You should try and use strings of the same gauge as are on the guitar now."
posted by TiredStarling at 4:54 PM on January 29, 2007
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by signal at 7:01 AM on January 29, 2007