What's preferable to dirt?
October 24, 2006 8:23 AM Subscribe
What should I plant in the world's tiniest garden?
My Philadelphia rowhouse has got the world's smallest strip of dirt masquerading as a backyard. We're talking maybe 30 square feet, mostly running the length of the back fence. It is shaded in the early morning by the fence and the late afternoon by the house.
I know almost nothing about gardening, and I hate fussy gardens; I prefer simple, minimalist, elegant stuff. What should I plant? Is there anything I should be doing now, before it freezes, or do I start in the spring? Like I said, I know nothing. No information is too basic!
My Philadelphia rowhouse has got the world's smallest strip of dirt masquerading as a backyard. We're talking maybe 30 square feet, mostly running the length of the back fence. It is shaded in the early morning by the fence and the late afternoon by the house.
I know almost nothing about gardening, and I hate fussy gardens; I prefer simple, minimalist, elegant stuff. What should I plant? Is there anything I should be doing now, before it freezes, or do I start in the spring? Like I said, I know nothing. No information is too basic!
oooh!! oooh! dwarf japanese maple or a nice dogwood tree!
posted by contessa at 8:39 AM on October 24, 2006
posted by contessa at 8:39 AM on October 24, 2006
Response by poster: I think we're going for flowers, probably. We've got herbs in pots already, and they seem pretty happy.
The trees you linked to, contessa, are gorgeous - but is it a problem if you've got limited square footage? Don't the roots expand and destroy everything in their path? Do I have any idea what I'm talking about?
posted by catesbie at 8:44 AM on October 24, 2006
The trees you linked to, contessa, are gorgeous - but is it a problem if you've got limited square footage? Don't the roots expand and destroy everything in their path? Do I have any idea what I'm talking about?
posted by catesbie at 8:44 AM on October 24, 2006
I'd think this would be a good time to put some bulbs in for the coming spring, but I live a more temperate climate than you; Up in Philly it might be too late. According to Sunset you're in Zone 32, so it might be okay still. It's nice have crocuses popping up, and tulips and hyacinth to let you know winter's over. As a ground cover, I like thyme lawns. Low maintainence, swett-smelling, xerix, and they don't trip my allergies.
posted by Sara Anne at 8:49 AM on October 24, 2006
posted by Sara Anne at 8:49 AM on October 24, 2006
Definitely get some bulbs in now. As long as you can dig a hole (the ground isn't frozen solid), it isn't too late.
posted by sulaine at 9:00 AM on October 24, 2006
posted by sulaine at 9:00 AM on October 24, 2006
What should I plant in the world's tiniest garden?... The world's tiniest vegetables, of course!
Seriously, though, take a look at this guy's website: Square Foot Gardening. Got his book a while ago and it's fantastic, even for those with black thumbs like me.
posted by gage at 9:47 AM on October 24, 2006
Seriously, though, take a look at this guy's website: Square Foot Gardening. Got his book a while ago and it's fantastic, even for those with black thumbs like me.
posted by gage at 9:47 AM on October 24, 2006
Hydrangea should handle the shade and give you nice blossoms too. There are shrub varieties and climbing vines for your fence or up the side of the house.
Yew's are great evergreens for shady areas. Euonymous is also a nice shrub, but is deciduous.
Flowers in shady area are tough. There's always hosta. They bloom in mid summer, but are mostly grown for foliage. Of course, if you don't mind annuals, nothing beats impatients in the shade. Nothing.
posted by kc0dxh at 9:51 AM on October 24, 2006
Yew's are great evergreens for shady areas. Euonymous is also a nice shrub, but is deciduous.
Flowers in shady area are tough. There's always hosta. They bloom in mid summer, but are mostly grown for foliage. Of course, if you don't mind annuals, nothing beats impatients in the shade. Nothing.
posted by kc0dxh at 9:51 AM on October 24, 2006
30 square feet is small for a garden? I'm not sure why you feel limited.
posted by agregoli at 10:15 AM on October 24, 2006
posted by agregoli at 10:15 AM on October 24, 2006
Don't grow edible stuff in dirt whose history you don't know well for the last decade. A lot of urban soil has had a lot of exposure to heavy metals in runoff, auto exhaust, etc. Herbs in pots, with commercial top soil mixes is a sounder plan, if the pots don't leach yuck.
If your little plot is shaded morning and afternoon, that might be the limit on what you can successfully grow. Most decorative plants, especially those with big, show flowers want sunlight, water and fertilizer. You're in USDA plant hardiness zone 6b based on average annual temperature, so you could consider trees and shrubs like these based on USDA recommendations. But being in Philly, where you can get some late snow, and having a shaded patch, you might look at 6a plant hardiness for wildflowers native to your region, or for annual and perennial plants.
If you're just starting with the plot, the main things to do overwinter are to get started with aeration and soil improvements, which will help any plant you put in. You don't need to fertilize a lot, particularly if you're considering shrubs or trees, but digging the plot to at least a foot depth, adding sand to improve drainage, or organic material if the soil is packed and poor, will be a good start. In late winter, or early spring, you can turn to specific preparations for whatever you do decide to do. And in the meantime, you might contact these folks for advice specific to your area, and visit some of their projects for ideas.
posted by paulsc at 10:19 AM on October 24, 2006
If your little plot is shaded morning and afternoon, that might be the limit on what you can successfully grow. Most decorative plants, especially those with big, show flowers want sunlight, water and fertilizer. You're in USDA plant hardiness zone 6b based on average annual temperature, so you could consider trees and shrubs like these based on USDA recommendations. But being in Philly, where you can get some late snow, and having a shaded patch, you might look at 6a plant hardiness for wildflowers native to your region, or for annual and perennial plants.
If you're just starting with the plot, the main things to do overwinter are to get started with aeration and soil improvements, which will help any plant you put in. You don't need to fertilize a lot, particularly if you're considering shrubs or trees, but digging the plot to at least a foot depth, adding sand to improve drainage, or organic material if the soil is packed and poor, will be a good start. In late winter, or early spring, you can turn to specific preparations for whatever you do decide to do. And in the meantime, you might contact these folks for advice specific to your area, and visit some of their projects for ideas.
posted by paulsc at 10:19 AM on October 24, 2006
catesbie -- I have to admit I have never planted one of those trees myself, only admired them from afar (and dearly want some when I ever get a patch of dirt of my own). They are small trees though. If you can grow one in a pot, as you can with the japanese maple, then I don't think roots are going to be a huge problem.
posted by contessa at 10:30 AM on October 24, 2006
posted by contessa at 10:30 AM on October 24, 2006
I second Square Foot Gardening, it's an excellent book.
Also try The Sustainable Vegetable Garden from Ecology Action. Despite the name, the techniques will work equally well for flowers.
Play around with this search: postage stamp gardens, I think there is also a book with a name reflecting these relatively common urban gardens.
Trial and Error is your friend, and look into methods of maintaining soil fertility as it will be the deciding factor in maximizing your yields and success. Best wishes!
posted by a_green_man at 11:25 AM on October 24, 2006
Also try The Sustainable Vegetable Garden from Ecology Action. Despite the name, the techniques will work equally well for flowers.
Play around with this search: postage stamp gardens, I think there is also a book with a name reflecting these relatively common urban gardens.
Trial and Error is your friend, and look into methods of maintaining soil fertility as it will be the deciding factor in maximizing your yields and success. Best wishes!
posted by a_green_man at 11:25 AM on October 24, 2006
One other thing I forgot to mention is that urban sites are often built over fill, or have buried utilities or other features that are going to be bad for deep rooting trees and shrubs. Digging the soil to a couple of feet depth in a few spots, by hand, and with due care for hitting buried cable and pipes, can reveal if you've got such impediments. Better to know for sure, than to buy a couple hundred dollars of nice ornamentals, and watch them keel over when they hit concrete six inches down.
posted by paulsc at 11:32 AM on October 24, 2006
posted by paulsc at 11:32 AM on October 24, 2006
Response by poster: Thanks to all of you! These are great suggestions. I will throw in some bulbs and get to work on the soil before it freezes.
I'm pretty sure we're probably over fill. Will try not to electrocute myself when digging, paulsc!
posted by catesbie at 1:57 PM on October 24, 2006
I'm pretty sure we're probably over fill. Will try not to electrocute myself when digging, paulsc!
posted by catesbie at 1:57 PM on October 24, 2006
This time of year, I like to get a bag of sheep manure, and mix it in. I also cover bare ground with fallen leaves, then mix them in come spring.
posted by QIbHom at 3:41 PM on October 25, 2006
posted by QIbHom at 3:41 PM on October 25, 2006
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by deadmessenger at 8:35 AM on October 24, 2006