Any advice about traveling to Ireland and Italy?
January 26, 2025 2:54 AM Subscribe
This is my first international trip, so it's very exciting but also a bit intimidating. I've looked up tons of info online, but want to get the personal experience aspect covered too :)
Including a lot of info for background, but questions in bold if you'd rather skip to those. The trip will be late March/early April.
We're traveling to Dublin overnight from the US, will arrive around 9:30 AM Dublin time and won't be planning anything specific that day. We'll stay one full extra day in Dublin and are taking a tour of Dublin Castle. Some family members are going to check out the Jameson Distillery.
I'm thinking of wandering around shops in Dublin. Can I do better than the malls near my hotel (ILAC and Jervis)? Also interested in any delicious bakery, grocery store and restaurant recommendations. We would strongly prefer not to spend more than 20€/person on most meals, as much as possible. I'm ovo lacto vegetarian, but no one else is and I'm a grocery store nerd who wouldn't mind getting my meals at those if needed. I've heard Dublin has good seafood and my family is excited about that, so any specifics seafood recommendations would be great.
The next day we're heading to Galway and will have a free afternoon there. Any must dos on a random Tuesday afternoon in Galway? The following day, we're doing a Cliffs of Moher tour that will take the full day. The next day, we're heading back to Dublin to fly to Florence.
We're staying put in Florence for 3 days that don't involve travel and are trying to have a more relaxed schedule there. The only unmovable things we're doing are Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze & Uffizi Galleries/Ponte Vecchio. So far, for random things to do we've found the central market, a bunch of gelato places and the Lindt shop for something to bring back to people.
In Florence, looking for more things to do that aren't on a schedule. Restaurant recommendations welcomed also (again, would like to keep meals below 20€ each as much as possible). We are particularly excited about Italian pizza, of course. Also looking for good bakeries, grocery stores and souvenir shops (especially food related).
We are doing some Duolingo, but it's safe to assume we won't be able to communicate well at places who don't speak much English in Florence so please keep that in mind for recommendations. I would love to wander around the most random grocery stores, but don't want to be a clueless tourist getting in the way of people's everyday shopping.
Including a lot of info for background, but questions in bold if you'd rather skip to those. The trip will be late March/early April.
We're traveling to Dublin overnight from the US, will arrive around 9:30 AM Dublin time and won't be planning anything specific that day. We'll stay one full extra day in Dublin and are taking a tour of Dublin Castle. Some family members are going to check out the Jameson Distillery.
I'm thinking of wandering around shops in Dublin. Can I do better than the malls near my hotel (ILAC and Jervis)? Also interested in any delicious bakery, grocery store and restaurant recommendations. We would strongly prefer not to spend more than 20€/person on most meals, as much as possible. I'm ovo lacto vegetarian, but no one else is and I'm a grocery store nerd who wouldn't mind getting my meals at those if needed. I've heard Dublin has good seafood and my family is excited about that, so any specifics seafood recommendations would be great.
The next day we're heading to Galway and will have a free afternoon there. Any must dos on a random Tuesday afternoon in Galway? The following day, we're doing a Cliffs of Moher tour that will take the full day. The next day, we're heading back to Dublin to fly to Florence.
We're staying put in Florence for 3 days that don't involve travel and are trying to have a more relaxed schedule there. The only unmovable things we're doing are Galleria dell’Accademia di Firenze & Uffizi Galleries/Ponte Vecchio. So far, for random things to do we've found the central market, a bunch of gelato places and the Lindt shop for something to bring back to people.
In Florence, looking for more things to do that aren't on a schedule. Restaurant recommendations welcomed also (again, would like to keep meals below 20€ each as much as possible). We are particularly excited about Italian pizza, of course. Also looking for good bakeries, grocery stores and souvenir shops (especially food related).
We are doing some Duolingo, but it's safe to assume we won't be able to communicate well at places who don't speak much English in Florence so please keep that in mind for recommendations. I would love to wander around the most random grocery stores, but don't want to be a clueless tourist getting in the way of people's everyday shopping.
Malls are the same everywhere in the world. Walk round any historic centres and find the small shops in the side streets. As long as you have your hotel’s name and address you’ll always be able to make it back there.
posted by koahiatamadl at 3:28 AM on January 26 [3 favorites]
posted by koahiatamadl at 3:28 AM on January 26 [3 favorites]
Best answer: American living in Dublin here. This question "Can I do better than the malls near my hotel (ILAC and Jervis)?" made me burst out laughing. I live nearby and run some regular errands there but they feel like a time warp back to an early 2000s low-end mall in the US. Absolutely not a culturally enriching experience.
You'll find more rewarding areas to explore just across the Liffey River, near Dublin Castle and heading east towards the Grafton St. shopping area. Powerscourt Center is a historic building with some nice small shops and places to get a bite to eat.
Your budget of €20/person for meals is doable but a little tight for Dublin. A few recommendations, not all within your budget:
- Bakery: https://bread41.ie/
- Breakfast/brunch: https://asone.ie/
- Coffee: https://3fe.com/
- Grocery stores with good deli/to-go options: https://www.fallonandbyrne.com/ and https://www.avoca.com/en/stores-and-cafes
- Gastropub: https://theoldspot.ie/
- For the non-vegetarians, this steakhouse is excellent: https://www.thebuckleycollection.ie/crow-street
I've never found a seafood restaurant in Dublin that I loved, but had a great meal at https://www.moransoystercottage.com/ near Galway.
posted by 4rtemis at 4:01 AM on January 26 [12 favorites]
You'll find more rewarding areas to explore just across the Liffey River, near Dublin Castle and heading east towards the Grafton St. shopping area. Powerscourt Center is a historic building with some nice small shops and places to get a bite to eat.
Your budget of €20/person for meals is doable but a little tight for Dublin. A few recommendations, not all within your budget:
- Bakery: https://bread41.ie/
- Breakfast/brunch: https://asone.ie/
- Coffee: https://3fe.com/
- Grocery stores with good deli/to-go options: https://www.fallonandbyrne.com/ and https://www.avoca.com/en/stores-and-cafes
- Gastropub: https://theoldspot.ie/
- For the non-vegetarians, this steakhouse is excellent: https://www.thebuckleycollection.ie/crow-street
I've never found a seafood restaurant in Dublin that I loved, but had a great meal at https://www.moransoystercottage.com/ near Galway.
posted by 4rtemis at 4:01 AM on January 26 [12 favorites]
Best answer: As someone who's been into Jervis Shopping Centre more times than the average MeFite this past decade: No! Do not go into Jervis unless you want to see - magically/cursedly transported across the Irish Sea - a 90s British shopping mall in a midsize town that's not been touched since then. ILAC, IIRC is nice enough, but still chain stores.
The shops to wander around in Dublin are on pedestrianised shopping streets, and starting from round about where you are, this is the kind of plan I'd make (hopefully you have a mapping app available):
Also, do consider popping into the National Gallery of Ireland (near Trinity College) while you're on your walk. Entrance is free, and that's another place to pick up a coffee and a light meal or snack.
posted by ambrosen at 4:54 AM on January 26 [11 favorites]
The shops to wander around in Dublin are on pedestrianised shopping streets, and starting from round about where you are, this is the kind of plan I'd make (hopefully you have a mapping app available):
- Walk down Henry Street to (400ft tall metal spike) The Spire on O'Connell Street. This is a shopping street, but I'd suggest just walking past to get the vibe and saving your shopping energy for later. It gets nicer.
- Turn right down O'Connell Street (not pedestrianised) and enjoy its wide open boulevard feel. The shops are getting a bit nicer, but I can't think any standouts.
- Cross the River Liffey on O'Connell Bridge, and stop to enjoy the view. Also, probably worth looking at the map again and figuring out the next steps, which are:
- Go into the grounds of Trinity College and have a proper wander through.
- Head south down Dawson Street (not pedestrianised) towards [St] Stephen's Green and have a look in Hodges Figgis, which is a nice bookshop. You should be able to find nice coffee stops and light meals in most places from here on in.
- Wander back from Stephen's Green along Grafton Street, generally regarded to be the best shopping street in the city. Brown Thomas is the fancy department store, and Bewlay's Grafton Street the iconic café
- Make your way to the Powerscourt centre to see the nice boutiques there
- Cross over to Temple Bar and wander through. It does tend towards the crowded and overpriced, but is still pretty
- Cross back over the River Liffey on Ha'penny Bridge and make your way back up Liffey Street to your hotel.
Also, do consider popping into the National Gallery of Ireland (near Trinity College) while you're on your walk. Entrance is free, and that's another place to pick up a coffee and a light meal or snack.
posted by ambrosen at 4:54 AM on January 26 [11 favorites]
In Florence, the Bargello is rarely crowded. Technically a sculpture museum but it's basically full of knick-knacks that didn't fit anywhere else. Furniture, ivory trinkets, textiles, tableware, anything. And as a bonus, the best Donatello sculptures.
posted by I claim sanctuary at 5:46 AM on January 26 [4 favorites]
posted by I claim sanctuary at 5:46 AM on January 26 [4 favorites]
Speaking more to this: "We are doing some Duolingo, but it's safe to assume we won't be able to communicate well at places who don't speak much English in Florence so please keep that in mind for recommendations."
I don't speak Italian at all, but was able to communicate in Florence absolutely fine with English - most people know enough to get their point across. And even if people don't speak English well, most will try real hard. (One of my favorite travel memories ever was of a barista in Italy resorting to using charades to explain to me that the item I'd tried to order was a seasonal-only one and so they didn't have it on the day I was there.)
Also: " I would love to wander around the most random grocery stores, but don't want to be a clueless tourist getting in the way of people's everyday shopping."
The Mercato Centrale isn't technically a grocery store and may be partially targeted at tourists, but may scratch this itch; it's a "food court" like Chelsea Market in NYC, where you have little food stalls mixed in with little artisanal grocery markets to wander in. if you don't find another shop this might be a good backup plan, at least.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:27 AM on January 26 [4 favorites]
I don't speak Italian at all, but was able to communicate in Florence absolutely fine with English - most people know enough to get their point across. And even if people don't speak English well, most will try real hard. (One of my favorite travel memories ever was of a barista in Italy resorting to using charades to explain to me that the item I'd tried to order was a seasonal-only one and so they didn't have it on the day I was there.)
Also: " I would love to wander around the most random grocery stores, but don't want to be a clueless tourist getting in the way of people's everyday shopping."
The Mercato Centrale isn't technically a grocery store and may be partially targeted at tourists, but may scratch this itch; it's a "food court" like Chelsea Market in NYC, where you have little food stalls mixed in with little artisanal grocery markets to wander in. if you don't find another shop this might be a good backup plan, at least.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 6:27 AM on January 26 [4 favorites]
I would walk up and down Grafton Street instead of trying for a mall. For food, I would scour TripAdvisor Cheap Eats. Soup Dragon, Bunsen, Pho Kim and a bunch of breakfast places on that list are solid. Maybe try The 51 Bar for dinner, standard Irish pub food; that's good.
posted by DarlingBri at 6:42 AM on January 26 [1 favorite]
posted by DarlingBri at 6:42 AM on January 26 [1 favorite]
I live in Dublin and 4rtemis’s answer is really good, but if your group is small and you like wine, The Fish Shop on Benburb St is excellent seafood quite near to your hotel.
posted by distorte at 7:17 AM on January 26 [2 favorites]
posted by distorte at 7:17 AM on January 26 [2 favorites]
Take it easy that first day. The jet lag you'll likely encounter isn't insignificant, and you have an ambitious schedule ahead of you.
IMO the more interesting parts of Ireland are the ones you'll encounter in the west of the country anyway, and I'm glad to hear you're headed to the Cliffs of Moher in particular, God willing.
Rick Steves' advice for minimizing jet lag - keep to as much your "usual" schedule as possible, take mild exercise like short walks that first day, go to bed at your usual hour - is helpful in my experience. Soft-pedal or avoid booze for the first day, even Guinness.
posted by rabia.elizabeth at 7:20 AM on January 26 [1 favorite]
IMO the more interesting parts of Ireland are the ones you'll encounter in the west of the country anyway, and I'm glad to hear you're headed to the Cliffs of Moher in particular, God willing.
Rick Steves' advice for minimizing jet lag - keep to as much your "usual" schedule as possible, take mild exercise like short walks that first day, go to bed at your usual hour - is helpful in my experience. Soft-pedal or avoid booze for the first day, even Guinness.
posted by rabia.elizabeth at 7:20 AM on January 26 [1 favorite]
places who don't speak much English in Florence
There is no such place unless you travel into the outer boroughs of Florence proper. The central town is completely and utterly given over to tourists and students. English is the international language for tourism so even non-native speakers have come to rely on it for travel.
We didn't see many actual grocery stores besides the Conad and a corner shop near one of the American universities (Stanford?). Visiting il Mercato Centrale or the Eataly may be a good venue for food shopping. We went to Eataly in Milan because it was near something else and were very impressed that the prices weren't inflated and the restaurant was very good. I'm sorry their website doesn't do English well. The actual locations are much more cooperative.
posted by fiercekitten at 8:42 AM on January 26 [2 favorites]
There is no such place unless you travel into the outer boroughs of Florence proper. The central town is completely and utterly given over to tourists and students. English is the international language for tourism so even non-native speakers have come to rely on it for travel.
We didn't see many actual grocery stores besides the Conad and a corner shop near one of the American universities (Stanford?). Visiting il Mercato Centrale or the Eataly may be a good venue for food shopping. We went to Eataly in Milan because it was near something else and were very impressed that the prices weren't inflated and the restaurant was very good. I'm sorry their website doesn't do English well. The actual locations are much more cooperative.
posted by fiercekitten at 8:42 AM on January 26 [2 favorites]
Best answer: Ok, also in absolute tears at the thought of you sampling the delights of d'Ilac and de Jervis. You should almost peek in to see what we mean if you're staying nearby. So assuming you are staying around Parnell Square somewhere, I would suggest the following.
Day 1, do your Dublin stuff, Dublin is absolutely tiny, you can fart around in town for just a couple of hours and cover your shopping and poking around. Don't bother with a tour of Dublin castle, just go for a peek, see below. So, bus 16 or 41 from the airport will get you into O'Connell Street. If you're staying at Parnell Square you can get off there. 2 Euro each, no change given. Or grab a big taxi.
Have your breakfast at The Kingfisher on Parnell St. Full Irish is 11 euro, loads of hot tea as well. You are right beside the Rotunda Hospital where many of us were born. Go dump your gear at your hotel, and then head from out to O' Connell Street. It's far from it's glory days and there's a lot of people in hardship hanging around, so please remember you are in a major european city and not a diddly-eidelly-leprechaun-land, keep an eye on your stuff. Enjoy briefly looking at the Spire (it's just a big spike, but you can see it from much of town, which can be handy), wave at people across the globe through the live Portal and have a little longer look at the GPO, site of the declaration of independance and an important cultural site (wiki it before you go). Cross the street and get a fresh sugared donut at this kiosk, a Dublin standard. Head down towards Trinity College, and go in the front and out the side. Avoid all the tourist-traps along Nassau Street with the jumpers and the geneology and grab some books at Hodges Figgis as mentioned above.
Now you have two options, the long and the short. You can keep going up Dawson Street and walk through Stephens Green park, see the ducks, and peep into the Stephens Green Shopping Center, which also has kinda shit shops, but is in a quite lovely building. I wouldn't bother at this time of year though, I would instead swing a right down South Anne Street. Please keep an eye out for gorgeous street art on all these travels. South Anne St brings you to Grafton Street (this is a shopping street for major brands, expensive department store Brown Thomas, etc, if you want that). Go to the right a little way and into Bewleys right in front of you for a small coffee and cake, admire the beautiful stained glass windows and be aware that you are again, in an absolutely iconic Dublin location. I've heard it has a nightclub on the top floor some nights now. Go out the side door into the lane beside Bewleys. Step directly into St Theresas church, light a little candle and have a quiet moment. Duck out the opposite door that you came in from and you will be outside the Powerscourt Townhouse, a very bougie, but also gorgeous shopping center that was once the Town House (like in Bridgerton) to the Powerscourt Family whose estate is south of Dublin in the mountains and worth a visit on a longer trip.
Go straight through in the same direction and come out on William Street. If you need a pint still, you could do worse than Grogans on the corner (or find your way to Hogans or Brogans). Otherwise straight forward through that small street in front of you to Dury St. There are so many good little places to grab a bite around here, there's a pop-up icecream shop at the moment (spilt milk) that does hot-chocolate with marshmallow fluff on top, nomnom). Step into the Georges Street Arcade, there's an amount of tatt in there, but some nice things, and one really fun store that does like, design gifts, cards etc, that would be unique to Ireland. It's a stunning little market that is over 150 years old. That will bring you out on Georges Street. There's a great design store there too with uniquely irish stuff and the street will lead you down into Temple Bar. There's another optional loop here if you want to check out Dublin Castle, see the map at the end here. In which case it's enough to go up over the square to the somewhat hidden garden. There's usually design exhibitions in the carriage house and you can go into the Chester Beaty library and take the lift to the top floor to view the hidden design of the garden from above. Don't get stuck in Temple Bar, it's tourist central, but there's great food to be had at The Seafood Cafe, but you might need to go with chips and salad there unfortunately. If you like art books, photography, zines etc, check out the The Library Project. Swing a right through Merchants Arch and across the Hapenny Bridge, bringing you by the Winding Stair and the Woolen Mills, both great places to eat. It leaves you at Liffey Street that will bring you back up towards Jervis and ILAC if you decide you want to check them out.
This is a walk that is almost a loop, excludes Stephens Green but includes Dublin Castle, it's less than 5K all told, very doable in a half a day. From the top of this map to the bottom is about 30 minutes brisk walk, Dublin is very, very small. Here's a map of the route.
So, why do I want you out doing Dublin on your first day? Because on your other day, the full day as you called it, you're going to Howth. This is a fishing village north of Dublin. You can either belt out and back on the Dart and do it as even a half day, but I suggest making a full day of it if you have the weather and doing the hill walk. Do not do it like a tourist, do it the sane way, which is to take the bus to the summit and walk down (you will meet sweaty tourists doing it the other way). You can probably get the whole lot of you in a taxi for 30-50 euro, which might be worth it, 40 minutes by car but almost an hour by bus (2 euro). From the Summit, follow the cliff 5k down to the village and to the left-side of the pier. Please use common sense regarding the weather, footwear etc, and watch how other people not dressed like tourists are going. Once on the pier, look at the seals, have a bite (I suggest Octopussy), we were 5 people who ate incl. 6 glasses of wine, for about 150 euro last weekend. Sharing size dishes many of them. You can then take the Dart light rail back into town.
With regard to the distillery visit, could I make a suggestion? Try the Teelings Distillery Tour. Teelings are the first new distillery in Dublin in 125 year, and are where Teelings is actually distilled. They make a wonderful whiskey and an amazing poitin. There is no actual distillery at the Jamesons site, they distill in Cork.
Oh, forgot, Fallon and Byrnes for little deliciousnesses, below the Georges Arcade.
posted by Iteki at 9:22 AM on January 26 [11 favorites]
Day 1, do your Dublin stuff, Dublin is absolutely tiny, you can fart around in town for just a couple of hours and cover your shopping and poking around. Don't bother with a tour of Dublin castle, just go for a peek, see below. So, bus 16 or 41 from the airport will get you into O'Connell Street. If you're staying at Parnell Square you can get off there. 2 Euro each, no change given. Or grab a big taxi.
Have your breakfast at The Kingfisher on Parnell St. Full Irish is 11 euro, loads of hot tea as well. You are right beside the Rotunda Hospital where many of us were born. Go dump your gear at your hotel, and then head from out to O' Connell Street. It's far from it's glory days and there's a lot of people in hardship hanging around, so please remember you are in a major european city and not a diddly-eidelly-leprechaun-land, keep an eye on your stuff. Enjoy briefly looking at the Spire (it's just a big spike, but you can see it from much of town, which can be handy), wave at people across the globe through the live Portal and have a little longer look at the GPO, site of the declaration of independance and an important cultural site (wiki it before you go). Cross the street and get a fresh sugared donut at this kiosk, a Dublin standard. Head down towards Trinity College, and go in the front and out the side. Avoid all the tourist-traps along Nassau Street with the jumpers and the geneology and grab some books at Hodges Figgis as mentioned above.
Now you have two options, the long and the short. You can keep going up Dawson Street and walk through Stephens Green park, see the ducks, and peep into the Stephens Green Shopping Center, which also has kinda shit shops, but is in a quite lovely building. I wouldn't bother at this time of year though, I would instead swing a right down South Anne Street. Please keep an eye out for gorgeous street art on all these travels. South Anne St brings you to Grafton Street (this is a shopping street for major brands, expensive department store Brown Thomas, etc, if you want that). Go to the right a little way and into Bewleys right in front of you for a small coffee and cake, admire the beautiful stained glass windows and be aware that you are again, in an absolutely iconic Dublin location. I've heard it has a nightclub on the top floor some nights now. Go out the side door into the lane beside Bewleys. Step directly into St Theresas church, light a little candle and have a quiet moment. Duck out the opposite door that you came in from and you will be outside the Powerscourt Townhouse, a very bougie, but also gorgeous shopping center that was once the Town House (like in Bridgerton) to the Powerscourt Family whose estate is south of Dublin in the mountains and worth a visit on a longer trip.
Go straight through in the same direction and come out on William Street. If you need a pint still, you could do worse than Grogans on the corner (or find your way to Hogans or Brogans). Otherwise straight forward through that small street in front of you to Dury St. There are so many good little places to grab a bite around here, there's a pop-up icecream shop at the moment (spilt milk) that does hot-chocolate with marshmallow fluff on top, nomnom). Step into the Georges Street Arcade, there's an amount of tatt in there, but some nice things, and one really fun store that does like, design gifts, cards etc, that would be unique to Ireland. It's a stunning little market that is over 150 years old. That will bring you out on Georges Street. There's a great design store there too with uniquely irish stuff and the street will lead you down into Temple Bar. There's another optional loop here if you want to check out Dublin Castle, see the map at the end here. In which case it's enough to go up over the square to the somewhat hidden garden. There's usually design exhibitions in the carriage house and you can go into the Chester Beaty library and take the lift to the top floor to view the hidden design of the garden from above. Don't get stuck in Temple Bar, it's tourist central, but there's great food to be had at The Seafood Cafe, but you might need to go with chips and salad there unfortunately. If you like art books, photography, zines etc, check out the The Library Project. Swing a right through Merchants Arch and across the Hapenny Bridge, bringing you by the Winding Stair and the Woolen Mills, both great places to eat. It leaves you at Liffey Street that will bring you back up towards Jervis and ILAC if you decide you want to check them out.
This is a walk that is almost a loop, excludes Stephens Green but includes Dublin Castle, it's less than 5K all told, very doable in a half a day. From the top of this map to the bottom is about 30 minutes brisk walk, Dublin is very, very small. Here's a map of the route.
So, why do I want you out doing Dublin on your first day? Because on your other day, the full day as you called it, you're going to Howth. This is a fishing village north of Dublin. You can either belt out and back on the Dart and do it as even a half day, but I suggest making a full day of it if you have the weather and doing the hill walk. Do not do it like a tourist, do it the sane way, which is to take the bus to the summit and walk down (you will meet sweaty tourists doing it the other way). You can probably get the whole lot of you in a taxi for 30-50 euro, which might be worth it, 40 minutes by car but almost an hour by bus (2 euro). From the Summit, follow the cliff 5k down to the village and to the left-side of the pier. Please use common sense regarding the weather, footwear etc, and watch how other people not dressed like tourists are going. Once on the pier, look at the seals, have a bite (I suggest Octopussy), we were 5 people who ate incl. 6 glasses of wine, for about 150 euro last weekend. Sharing size dishes many of them. You can then take the Dart light rail back into town.
With regard to the distillery visit, could I make a suggestion? Try the Teelings Distillery Tour. Teelings are the first new distillery in Dublin in 125 year, and are where Teelings is actually distilled. They make a wonderful whiskey and an amazing poitin. There is no actual distillery at the Jamesons site, they distill in Cork.
Oh, forgot, Fallon and Byrnes for little deliciousnesses, below the Georges Arcade.
posted by Iteki at 9:22 AM on January 26 [11 favorites]
Best answer: About Florence: The place I think is worth dealing with Florence for is the Brancacci Chapel. I mean, the other sites are amazing, but they don't have the sense of vulnerability and openness to change that one finds there.
In the same spirit, you have to visit San Miniato al Monte and the Laurentian Library.
As fiercekitten says, central Florence has been taken over almost completely by tourists. It's like a very, very high end Disney experience. Once, an old schoolmate lived there, and could help me find something kind of local, but he moved away while our children were still young, so at least 20 years ago.
This shouldn't make you feel dismayed or cheated. The artwork is still amazing, as is the city itself. And the food is still amazing, as it has been for centuries. But it will be a challenge to find what is value for money. It is a university town, so there is cheap food: paninis (sandwiches), pizzas and kebabs (!) Even if you are not a student, it makes sense to google how to eat as a student in Florence. That might even help you meet some people who can give you great local advice. Florence is authentically an international city of art and education, embrace that and get more out of your stay.
Also, Tuscany is the land of the beans, and even at more expensive and touristy restaurants you may find cheaper dishes based on legumes. Look out for seasonal soups and pastas. There may be fresh peas, and artichokes, and broad beans that you can find in regional dishes. There'll be new spinach and chard, too. Eating with the seasons is both cheaper and better in Italy in general.
Maybe go on a short day trip to Fiesole, and have lunch there. It is still touristy and expensive, but it is beautiful in a different, pastoral way.
Since it's your first international trip, here's some things that are general for Italy. Tips aren't expected at all, but appreciated, so you might round up or give 10% if you are generous. There is always a basic "pane et coperto" added to the bill, which means bread and cover, maybe 1-2 €. You will get some bread, which may or may not be edible. So when you see the menu, you can count on the prices + the basic fare. Most Italians prefer bottled water, and it often makes sense, not for health, but for taste (as in the US, but I digress).
Contrary to most other places I've visited, food carts in Italy may be significantly more expensive than a plain bar, an osteria or a pizzeria. I don't even know how this works.
posted by mumimor at 11:30 AM on January 26 [1 favorite]
In the same spirit, you have to visit San Miniato al Monte and the Laurentian Library.
As fiercekitten says, central Florence has been taken over almost completely by tourists. It's like a very, very high end Disney experience. Once, an old schoolmate lived there, and could help me find something kind of local, but he moved away while our children were still young, so at least 20 years ago.
This shouldn't make you feel dismayed or cheated. The artwork is still amazing, as is the city itself. And the food is still amazing, as it has been for centuries. But it will be a challenge to find what is value for money. It is a university town, so there is cheap food: paninis (sandwiches), pizzas and kebabs (!) Even if you are not a student, it makes sense to google how to eat as a student in Florence. That might even help you meet some people who can give you great local advice. Florence is authentically an international city of art and education, embrace that and get more out of your stay.
Also, Tuscany is the land of the beans, and even at more expensive and touristy restaurants you may find cheaper dishes based on legumes. Look out for seasonal soups and pastas. There may be fresh peas, and artichokes, and broad beans that you can find in regional dishes. There'll be new spinach and chard, too. Eating with the seasons is both cheaper and better in Italy in general.
Maybe go on a short day trip to Fiesole, and have lunch there. It is still touristy and expensive, but it is beautiful in a different, pastoral way.
Since it's your first international trip, here's some things that are general for Italy. Tips aren't expected at all, but appreciated, so you might round up or give 10% if you are generous. There is always a basic "pane et coperto" added to the bill, which means bread and cover, maybe 1-2 €. You will get some bread, which may or may not be edible. So when you see the menu, you can count on the prices + the basic fare. Most Italians prefer bottled water, and it often makes sense, not for health, but for taste (as in the US, but I digress).
Contrary to most other places I've visited, food carts in Italy may be significantly more expensive than a plain bar, an osteria or a pizzeria. I don't even know how this works.
posted by mumimor at 11:30 AM on January 26 [1 favorite]
Best answer: In Florence last year I ate twice at Simbiosi Organic - they have a pizzeria and a restaurant side by side. The pizza was excellent, and in the restaurant I ate a mushroom and hazelnut risotto that came with a little cup of mushroom broth. It was one of the most delicious things I've ever eaten, and it's just as well there was nobody at the next table because I moaned with pleasure at every mouthful.
posted by essexjan at 1:26 PM on January 26 [2 favorites]
posted by essexjan at 1:26 PM on January 26 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: Thanks for all the answers so far, feeling even more excited about the trip than before (did not know that was possible). Really grateful for the time people put into their answers, seriously!
Also I'm glad to provide a laugh about the malls :P We have 2 malls in the closest city to me and one is legitimately one of the places I'd recommend people go to support local shops (the other is it's opposite). I suppose that's more rare than I thought :)
posted by Eyelash at 2:22 PM on January 26
Also I'm glad to provide a laugh about the malls :P We have 2 malls in the closest city to me and one is legitimately one of the places I'd recommend people go to support local shops (the other is it's opposite). I suppose that's more rare than I thought :)
posted by Eyelash at 2:22 PM on January 26
Best answer: If you're on Dawson St. following the Iteki Itin please consider diverting one block East for Kildare St. The National Library [free in] has an enormous [part cut-away] model of itself in the foyer. It faces the National Museum Archaeology [free in] where you can see The Broighter Boat - a dinky 2,000 y.o. model sailing/rowing boat in gold. Between these two is the National Parliament before which there is likely to be an interesting protest. [✓] [✓] [✓] 20 minutes.
If you're on O'Connell Bridge, looking N along O'Connell Street at the O'Connell Monument, note the Easter 1916 bullet holes, incl in the bronze bosom of one of the supporting winged victories.
Galway: My favorite short walk in all the world is the 500m from Spanish Arch up the River Corrib to The Salmon Weir Bridge beside the Cathedral: it's a mix of nature and urban blight. Come back along Canal Rd?
posted by BobTheScientist at 3:25 PM on January 26 [3 favorites]
If you're on O'Connell Bridge, looking N along O'Connell Street at the O'Connell Monument, note the Easter 1916 bullet holes, incl in the bronze bosom of one of the supporting winged victories.
Galway: My favorite short walk in all the world is the 500m from Spanish Arch up the River Corrib to The Salmon Weir Bridge beside the Cathedral: it's a mix of nature and urban blight. Come back along Canal Rd?
posted by BobTheScientist at 3:25 PM on January 26 [3 favorites]
Best answer: To answer some of your “personal experience” questions:
- In Dublin, I very much enjoyed two cafés: Tang on Abbey Street in Dublin, which is only a stone’s throw from the GPO and the river, so right in the middle of town, and Laine, My Love, at the corner of Joyce’s Walk and Talbot Street, which was nice before my train to Belfast, but might be a bit out of your way if you’re not using Connolly Station.
- In Florence, I had a warm and welcoming dinner with family of multiple generations at Trattoria Nella on via delle Terme on a Thursday evening in November of 2022 with friendly service in English and bilingual menus. It didn’t feel like a tourist-only establishment, especially since the table next to us was a large party of public workers celebrating a colleague’s retirement, and as far as I could tell, every table but ours was speaking Italian. The “secondi” (main dishes) bit of the menu was basically all poultry and meat, if I recall correctly, but we had two vegetarians with us who enjoyed pastas and salads from the “primi” (first courses) menu instead.
Two final notes:
- A trattoria is (theoretically) a lot less formal than a fancier and more expensive ristorante would be, and Trattoria Nella was indeed affordable, relaxed and charming. Calling a place to eat a trattoria doesn’t require it to not be as expensive as a restaurant, of course, but it can be a good keyword to winnow down your options.
- For whatever reason, when I saw my Italian friends in 2022, they were all using TheFork, a restaurant-booking and review app, to find places to eat. I wasn’t there long enough to bother downloading it, but I wonder if it might help you do things like check menus and make bookings. No idea if it’s as popular now, though.
posted by mdonley at 4:08 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
- In Dublin, I very much enjoyed two cafés: Tang on Abbey Street in Dublin, which is only a stone’s throw from the GPO and the river, so right in the middle of town, and Laine, My Love, at the corner of Joyce’s Walk and Talbot Street, which was nice before my train to Belfast, but might be a bit out of your way if you’re not using Connolly Station.
- In Florence, I had a warm and welcoming dinner with family of multiple generations at Trattoria Nella on via delle Terme on a Thursday evening in November of 2022 with friendly service in English and bilingual menus. It didn’t feel like a tourist-only establishment, especially since the table next to us was a large party of public workers celebrating a colleague’s retirement, and as far as I could tell, every table but ours was speaking Italian. The “secondi” (main dishes) bit of the menu was basically all poultry and meat, if I recall correctly, but we had two vegetarians with us who enjoyed pastas and salads from the “primi” (first courses) menu instead.
Two final notes:
- A trattoria is (theoretically) a lot less formal than a fancier and more expensive ristorante would be, and Trattoria Nella was indeed affordable, relaxed and charming. Calling a place to eat a trattoria doesn’t require it to not be as expensive as a restaurant, of course, but it can be a good keyword to winnow down your options.
- For whatever reason, when I saw my Italian friends in 2022, they were all using TheFork, a restaurant-booking and review app, to find places to eat. I wasn’t there long enough to bother downloading it, but I wonder if it might help you do things like check menus and make bookings. No idea if it’s as popular now, though.
posted by mdonley at 4:08 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
If you only have an afternoon in Galway, I would suggest simply walking around the city centre and river walks (hopefully the weather will be ok!) and maybe choosing a pub/cafe/restaurant to hang out in. Trad music sessions will mostly be at night
posted by Samarium at 5:28 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
posted by Samarium at 5:28 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Yes, to the Chester Beatty! You can pop in for just a bit or wander around more extensively. The staff are exceptionally friendly and informed.
You didn't mention afternoon tea (but it's something I look for in almost any city and it's often a good option for ovo-lacto vegetarians) I highly recommend Cake Cafe for a casual and fun afternoon tea. It's a sweet gem where we felt like regulars after our second visit. I rarely write negative suggestions, but please don't get tea at The Hardiman in Galway. It was truly one of the saddest dining experiences I've had in my life. Even the boozy bachelorette party next to us said they were going to drink up their prosecco and go to get burgers elsewhere!
If you need breakfast on your way out of town Jungle Cafe is fun and tasty.
posted by annaramma at 6:00 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
You didn't mention afternoon tea (but it's something I look for in almost any city and it's often a good option for ovo-lacto vegetarians) I highly recommend Cake Cafe for a casual and fun afternoon tea. It's a sweet gem where we felt like regulars after our second visit. I rarely write negative suggestions, but please don't get tea at The Hardiman in Galway. It was truly one of the saddest dining experiences I've had in my life. Even the boozy bachelorette party next to us said they were going to drink up their prosecco and go to get burgers elsewhere!
If you need breakfast on your way out of town Jungle Cafe is fun and tasty.
posted by annaramma at 6:00 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I used to live in Florence and go back roughly once a year. Was just there in November, so here’s what I’d suggest!
Couple of mentions up above are spot on - San Miniato al Monte is a beautiful little jewel, and you’ll have a magical view of the city from up there. If you have good weather and are up for it, walking there using little backstreets will give you a glimpse of the quiet side of Florence without tourists. Santa Croce is also beautiful and if you’re into history some really famous people are buried there. It’s like a Who’s Who of the Florentine elite. Plus the frescoes are incredible. Someone else mentioned Brancacci Chapel, which is also awesome AND has the benefit of being on the Oltrarno (other side of the river) which is a much quieter area and less packed with tourists. This area is also where you’ll find a lot of artisans, so it makes for an interesting visit if you’re interested in Italian craft and history. This is an area that would be great for picking up souvenirs.
For lunch or dinner right in center, I like Osteria del Giglio. It’s frequented by both tourists and Italians. Service is friendly and the food is good and most primi dishes come in under 20 euro. Despite being a bit touristy, Mercato Centrale is also good fun and has a little something for everyone. If you’re willing to travel a tiny bit further from center, Mercato Sant’Ambrogio is a little more authentic. It’s also the oldest market in Florence. They have limited hours, so check before you head over there. There are also some good restaurants around Santo Spirito (the "Gusta" restaurants are pretty good), so if you make it to the Oltrarno that's a great option. The Fork is definitely still a thing in Florence, so downloading that will be worth your time.
If you like bookstores you must go to The Odeon. It’s a movie theater/bookstore hybrid. Such an interesting/smart use of space, and a beautiful one at that!
My favorite art museum in the city is the Marino Marini Museum, which is mostly mid-century sculpture. It’s housed in a former church and it’s always quiet and peaceful. It feels like an oasis in the middle of the city, the architecture is stunning, and Marini’s sculptures are beautiful. Plus it’s sometimes nice to step out of the Renaissance loop and see something more contemporary.
Two big things I always see people do that I think are overrated are: going inside the Duomo. It’s fine, but the line is usually long and it’s relatively plain inside. If it’s art you’re after you’re much better off going to Santa Croce, San Miniato al Monte, or Santa Maria Novella (though some of the frescoes here - in particular the famous "Holy Trinity" by Masaccio - were under restoration when I was there a few months ago). The Duomo Museum, however, is fantastic and worth a visit if you have time! The second thing is waiting in line for schiacciata (panini) at All’antico Vinaio. This place has somehow (ahem...social media) captured the interest of the masses, but honestly, there are other places that have equally delicious sandwiches without a wait. You’re only there for a short amount of time, so why wait in unnecessary lines?
Also side note: beware gelaterias that feature big, fluffy mounds of overly colorful product in their window. The good places don't use artificial colors, and a lot of the good places literally keep the gelato covered in chilled canisters. I like La Carraia, and Eduardo.
Honestly, there’s so much to see and do! But at its heart, Florence is a city that begs for slow wandering, so leave some time for that too. Meander, stop, sit, have a coffee. Wander a bit more. Stop for gelato. Walk. Stop for a glass of wine and a snack. You get the picture. I think this is the best way to enjoy Florence. Have an amazing time!
posted by Fiorentina97 at 10:06 PM on January 26 [6 favorites]
Couple of mentions up above are spot on - San Miniato al Monte is a beautiful little jewel, and you’ll have a magical view of the city from up there. If you have good weather and are up for it, walking there using little backstreets will give you a glimpse of the quiet side of Florence without tourists. Santa Croce is also beautiful and if you’re into history some really famous people are buried there. It’s like a Who’s Who of the Florentine elite. Plus the frescoes are incredible. Someone else mentioned Brancacci Chapel, which is also awesome AND has the benefit of being on the Oltrarno (other side of the river) which is a much quieter area and less packed with tourists. This area is also where you’ll find a lot of artisans, so it makes for an interesting visit if you’re interested in Italian craft and history. This is an area that would be great for picking up souvenirs.
For lunch or dinner right in center, I like Osteria del Giglio. It’s frequented by both tourists and Italians. Service is friendly and the food is good and most primi dishes come in under 20 euro. Despite being a bit touristy, Mercato Centrale is also good fun and has a little something for everyone. If you’re willing to travel a tiny bit further from center, Mercato Sant’Ambrogio is a little more authentic. It’s also the oldest market in Florence. They have limited hours, so check before you head over there. There are also some good restaurants around Santo Spirito (the "Gusta" restaurants are pretty good), so if you make it to the Oltrarno that's a great option. The Fork is definitely still a thing in Florence, so downloading that will be worth your time.
If you like bookstores you must go to The Odeon. It’s a movie theater/bookstore hybrid. Such an interesting/smart use of space, and a beautiful one at that!
My favorite art museum in the city is the Marino Marini Museum, which is mostly mid-century sculpture. It’s housed in a former church and it’s always quiet and peaceful. It feels like an oasis in the middle of the city, the architecture is stunning, and Marini’s sculptures are beautiful. Plus it’s sometimes nice to step out of the Renaissance loop and see something more contemporary.
Two big things I always see people do that I think are overrated are: going inside the Duomo. It’s fine, but the line is usually long and it’s relatively plain inside. If it’s art you’re after you’re much better off going to Santa Croce, San Miniato al Monte, or Santa Maria Novella (though some of the frescoes here - in particular the famous "Holy Trinity" by Masaccio - were under restoration when I was there a few months ago). The Duomo Museum, however, is fantastic and worth a visit if you have time! The second thing is waiting in line for schiacciata (panini) at All’antico Vinaio. This place has somehow (ahem...social media) captured the interest of the masses, but honestly, there are other places that have equally delicious sandwiches without a wait. You’re only there for a short amount of time, so why wait in unnecessary lines?
Also side note: beware gelaterias that feature big, fluffy mounds of overly colorful product in their window. The good places don't use artificial colors, and a lot of the good places literally keep the gelato covered in chilled canisters. I like La Carraia, and Eduardo.
Honestly, there’s so much to see and do! But at its heart, Florence is a city that begs for slow wandering, so leave some time for that too. Meander, stop, sit, have a coffee. Wander a bit more. Stop for gelato. Walk. Stop for a glass of wine and a snack. You get the picture. I think this is the best way to enjoy Florence. Have an amazing time!
posted by Fiorentina97 at 10:06 PM on January 26 [6 favorites]
Random: my favorite trick for jetlag is to force myself to walk about for as long as possible after arrival -- ideally the entire day (since you're arriving at Dublin in the morning). Then, be utterly wrecked and collapse at night. Hey presto, next morning you're basically fine (because the exhaustion from walking means you're unlikely to wake up in your "home" timezone, and thus sleep through the night with perhaps minor chemical assistance if desired).
...in Florence, very close to All'antico Vinaio (two buildings down, iirc, on the same street) is another vastly less-crowded spot that (IMO) is equally nice -- Antico Salumificio Anzuini. It's a meat shop, but they serve food as well. I was all geared up for All'antico, but went to Anzuini instead (a tour bus had just arrived) and was entirely pleased with the outcome (note: again, meat shop. It's a lot of meat, so perhaps not your personal thing but your companions will probably enjoy it).
Since you're going as a group, another option could be il Mercato Centrale (like two blocks from Basilica di San Lorenzo) -- there's a bunch of places to get food (both prepared, and just ingredients) so folks can wander about and get the bits that seem nice to them, without having to commit to a restaurant. I had a fricking amazing sandwich in there, while my compatriot got some horrible fish thing that they loved.
posted by aramaic at 10:30 PM on January 26 [2 favorites]
...in Florence, very close to All'antico Vinaio (two buildings down, iirc, on the same street) is another vastly less-crowded spot that (IMO) is equally nice -- Antico Salumificio Anzuini. It's a meat shop, but they serve food as well. I was all geared up for All'antico, but went to Anzuini instead (a tour bus had just arrived) and was entirely pleased with the outcome (note: again, meat shop. It's a lot of meat, so perhaps not your personal thing but your companions will probably enjoy it).
Since you're going as a group, another option could be il Mercato Centrale (like two blocks from Basilica di San Lorenzo) -- there's a bunch of places to get food (both prepared, and just ingredients) so folks can wander about and get the bits that seem nice to them, without having to commit to a restaurant. I had a fricking amazing sandwich in there, while my compatriot got some horrible fish thing that they loved.
posted by aramaic at 10:30 PM on January 26 [2 favorites]
Yes yes yes to the Broighter gold hoard!! It’s so absolutely delightful, and if you see a curator and they don’t seem to busy, ask them about it. Have them show you the Ardagh chalice while you are there too, don’t miss the underside :)
posted by Iteki at 10:31 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
posted by Iteki at 10:31 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
I visited Florence last year. The Central Market is an excellent place for really good food in its huge food court, and the food shops are patronized by the locals.
Don't worry about not speaking Italian, in fact I saw a few of the waiters in central Florence got very annoyed by tourists wasting their time by speaking terrible Italian instead of English.
posted by monotreme at 11:44 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
Don't worry about not speaking Italian, in fact I saw a few of the waiters in central Florence got very annoyed by tourists wasting their time by speaking terrible Italian instead of English.
posted by monotreme at 11:44 PM on January 26 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I'm mostly just seconding things here at this point, but I've been to Florence a couple of times in similar-ish circumstances to yours (within the last few years, at the point where it's not peak tourist season but also isn't actual winter, for a few days a time, and once with a small family group) and here's what I reckon:
posted by severalbees at 3:34 AM on January 27 [1 favorite]
- I mean obviously make sure you see the Duomo but it is extremely hard to miss (I agree that you don't particularly need to queue and go inside unless you really wanna though?)
- There's a cute little English-language bookshop down a sidestreet near the Duomo if you wanna pick up, eg, a nice Florence history book or something while you're there
- The famous museums are busy all the time, but there are so many museums and so much old art that there are also a lot of museums that have very few visitors and which are still jam-packed with interesting things. I'd particularly second the Marino Marini museum mentioned above, which focuses on the work of a single artist - and you might think you're not interested in this random guy, but it's a wonderful quiet space and feels so good to be in, and the art is great, strong recommend. (It was my mum's favourite place in the city.) I also loved the Museo Stefano Bardini which is basically all the stuff bought by a particular collector; it's the sort of objects you get in any big old Italian museum, but not so many of them - like you can wander around the whole thing comfortably in an hour - and without many other people there. So it's just much less overwhelming and gives you a kind-of calming version of the museum experience. I've heard great things about the Bargello Museum but haven't been.
- Generally speaking Florence makes its table bread without salt for historic reasons nobody can quite agree on, so the bread you'll get on tables at restaurants will uhhh probably taste bad to you. It will look delicious and crusty and exciting and then it will not taste like that.
- Most restaurants will close between lunch and dinner, or if they're still open they'll be much more lackadaisical about actually cooking anything, so don't dawdle too long on eating lunch. If you do you'll for sure be able to find somewhere open, especially in the more touristy places, and it will, honestly, probably still be pretty good, but your choices will be more limited and probably more expensive.
- The bean side dishes are indeed usually excellent
- Seconding suggestions about going across the river - lots of alleyways and artisans and little shops. If it's sunny, maybe try the Piazza della Passera, which is a slightly ugly little square by Florentine standards but you can grab lunch from Schiaccia Passera - a little shop that does excellent schiacciata for pretty cheap (the panini-like sandwich mentioned by Fiorentina97 above). And then really good gelato at Gelateria della Passera right next door. And eat it all on the benches outside and then go about your artisan exploration.
- A little more centrally, I had a couple of lovely meals at Le Antiche Carrozze, which I found very pleasant and friendly and reasonably priced given its location off a very pretty square, and reasonably likely to have a table available - I see from reviews that this is not everyone's experience and that some people report being unhappy with the service in particular but I liked it!
- If you decide to do a little day trip to not-Florence - and no pressure, because you can absolutely fill much more than three days in Florence - but if you do, my personal recommendation would be Bologna, which is such a lovely city - it has a different feel to Florence and a very different look too (also very beautiful and rammed-with-old-buildings, but lots of red stone, lots of covered arcades at the sides of the streets). Forty minutes away on the train, great food, quite studenty, it's a place that's excited about art but with a lot of forward-looking energy alongside all the stuff around The Past (I'm sure this is true of particular scenes elsewhere in Italy too as well but my experience was that this sort of energy felt more accessible to a tourist in Bologna than in Florence and other nearby-ish cities)
posted by severalbees at 3:34 AM on January 27 [1 favorite]
If they dig entrails (nothing too repulsive though!) your pals can’t get more traditional than a
lampredotto sandwich.
https://www.destinationflorence.com/en/blog/104-the-famous-lampredotto-panino-much-more-than-just-a-simple-street-food
I usually take mine at the Mercato Centrale. Really cheap and tasty. You can have a soup or some cheese, there’s lot of other choices there!
posted by Baldons at 1:11 PM on January 27
lampredotto sandwich.
https://www.destinationflorence.com/en/blog/104-the-famous-lampredotto-panino-much-more-than-just-a-simple-street-food
I usually take mine at the Mercato Centrale. Really cheap and tasty. You can have a soup or some cheese, there’s lot of other choices there!
posted by Baldons at 1:11 PM on January 27
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tbh I did not even know Dublin had malls. It's a great city for wandering in the center, and you'll find many small shops there.
posted by frumiousb at 3:14 AM on January 26 [2 favorites]