Two Weeks In Italy
March 7, 2023 9:18 AM Subscribe
As our 60th birthday present to each other, my wife and I are going on a two-week trip to Italy in late October. Looking for input here on any and all aspects of this trip.
We have our plane tickets and are flying into Venice, leaving from Rome, so our vague initial itinerary is a couple of days in Venice, then 3-4 days in Florence/Tuscany, then Rome (with some side trips from there). But beyond that we are only just starting to do research. We have travelled to Europe quite a few times, but this is our first trip to Italy.
We have our plane tickets and are flying into Venice, leaving from Rome, so our vague initial itinerary is a couple of days in Venice, then 3-4 days in Florence/Tuscany, then Rome (with some side trips from there). But beyond that we are only just starting to do research. We have travelled to Europe quite a few times, but this is our first trip to Italy.
Consider adding a stop in Siena as you head toward Rome.
If you think you might head north, then Bergamo is quite nice (the old town, I mean. The new town is relatively boring, but the old town is nifty-plus).
For generalized route planning I've found Chronotrains to be priceless, because it gives you an immediate visual sense of how long it takes to go from Point A to Point B (and vice-versa, which is not always the same amount of time!).
Also, download the Trainline app; if you have a data plan in Europe you can just buy your tickets directly on the app, flash the QR code to conductors, and you're golden. PLUS it keeps track of current performance, so you can see where your train currently is, which is nice if you're trying to decide if you have time to dash to the bathroom or if you should just wait on the platform instead. If you don't have a data plan, consider getting one (I like eSIM plans from Ubigi, YMMV), but even then the app is still handy as you can buy tickets using the wifi in your hotel and download them to the phone.
Also, for generalized planning and "what-class-of-ticket-do-i-want" type stuff, Seat61 is good.
posted by aramaic at 9:28 AM on March 7, 2023 [2 favorites]
If you think you might head north, then Bergamo is quite nice (the old town, I mean. The new town is relatively boring, but the old town is nifty-plus).
For generalized route planning I've found Chronotrains to be priceless, because it gives you an immediate visual sense of how long it takes to go from Point A to Point B (and vice-versa, which is not always the same amount of time!).
Also, download the Trainline app; if you have a data plan in Europe you can just buy your tickets directly on the app, flash the QR code to conductors, and you're golden. PLUS it keeps track of current performance, so you can see where your train currently is, which is nice if you're trying to decide if you have time to dash to the bathroom or if you should just wait on the platform instead. If you don't have a data plan, consider getting one (I like eSIM plans from Ubigi, YMMV), but even then the app is still handy as you can buy tickets using the wifi in your hotel and download them to the phone.
Also, for generalized planning and "what-class-of-ticket-do-i-want" type stuff, Seat61 is good.
posted by aramaic at 9:28 AM on March 7, 2023 [2 favorites]
Seconding Cinque Terre. The towns are just beautiful. You can just stay in one, and take a train to all of the others. Be aware that it could be rainy in October. I went during October, and there was tons of rain, but it was still great, because when the skies cleared, it was even more amazing. Plus, there were less tourists. The only downside was that the rain caused the hiking paths between towns to be closed.
posted by Cat Pie Hurts at 9:35 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by Cat Pie Hurts at 9:35 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
One small itinerary suggestion: Ravenna is a lovely (and manageably-small) place to stop on your way south if you are at all interested in late-classical/early-medieval history.
posted by mdonley at 9:36 AM on March 7, 2023 [2 favorites]
posted by mdonley at 9:36 AM on March 7, 2023 [2 favorites]
Congratulations, October is the best time to visit Venice. The train in and out of Venice is just glorious, do it in the daytime!
The Venice to Milan train is 2 - 3 hours and about €10 so my suggestion would be Venice > Milan > Florence > Rome, and I would absolutely take a side trip to Bergamo. Reach the old city via the cable car thing, it is unlike anywhere else.
posted by DarlingBri at 9:37 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
The Venice to Milan train is 2 - 3 hours and about €10 so my suggestion would be Venice > Milan > Florence > Rome, and I would absolutely take a side trip to Bergamo. Reach the old city via the cable car thing, it is unlike anywhere else.
posted by DarlingBri at 9:37 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
How will you be traveling inside Italy? Trains or will you rent a car?
Renting a car opens up a ton of possibilities! I recommend heading from Venice to the Dolomites and the lakes region, they are marvelous during any season (full disclosure: I'm from northern Lake Garda and I'm partial). Then you can travel down to Tuscany (don't forget Siena!) and onto Rome.
I actually recommend watching Stanley Tucci's Searching for Italy for inspiration; it's about food but not just about food. It's a wonderful slice of the cultural differences between the Italian regions, you might find something in particular that you really want to experience.
posted by lydhre at 9:47 AM on March 7, 2023 [3 favorites]
Renting a car opens up a ton of possibilities! I recommend heading from Venice to the Dolomites and the lakes region, they are marvelous during any season (full disclosure: I'm from northern Lake Garda and I'm partial). Then you can travel down to Tuscany (don't forget Siena!) and onto Rome.
I actually recommend watching Stanley Tucci's Searching for Italy for inspiration; it's about food but not just about food. It's a wonderful slice of the cultural differences between the Italian regions, you might find something in particular that you really want to experience.
posted by lydhre at 9:47 AM on March 7, 2023 [3 favorites]
GO TO BOLOGNA!!! its such an amazing city!! so much history and architecture and people watching and FOOD. like (and listen to what I am saying here) some of the best food in Italy. seriously. its amazing. also right on a major train line. best gelato I have ever eaten.
posted by supermedusa at 9:58 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by supermedusa at 9:58 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
This is exactly the trip we took for our honeymoon a decade and a bit ago: into Venice, out of Rome, with stops in Florence and the Cinque Terre in between. We stayed in Riomaggiore, but really they're all beautiful in their own ways. This was, again, more than a decade ago, so we used Rick Steves as our bible, and it was really helpful. There are probably better guides these days, but his books are accurate and point you toward food, lodging, and attractions that offer good value.
Anyhow, you really can't go wrong with that itinerary. We really had a great time. As above, one thing to consider is the weather. We were there in mid-November and got to experience some very serious acqua alta in Venice (pack waterproof shoes). Other than that, the weather was mild and pleasant and we occasionally walked around without coats.
October is truffle season, I think, so while traveling through Tuscany, consider finding a truffle festival to attend (or at least make sure to eat some fresh white truffles). And drink the house wines if you're not a wine snob. Everywhere we ate (really, everywhere), a carafe of house wine was like €6 and miles better than even a fairly pricey glass in the US.
And use public transit (obviously). We didn't have a car and never felt we needed one. Venice and Florence were both small enough that we walked everywhere we wanted to go, and Rome has a perfectly useful network of buses and metros. The trains between cities, again, are abundant and affordable, and even got us outside of Florence a bit to experience one of those truffle festivals (San Miniato, I think).
I also really, really loved the museums. Even if you don't do anything else, please try to see the David at l'Accademia in Florence. It was truly the closest thing I've ever had to a religious experience. But also I really loved the Vatican Museum and the Uffizi (and many other museums that I bored my wife with).
Have fun!
posted by uncleozzy at 10:00 AM on March 7, 2023
Anyhow, you really can't go wrong with that itinerary. We really had a great time. As above, one thing to consider is the weather. We were there in mid-November and got to experience some very serious acqua alta in Venice (pack waterproof shoes). Other than that, the weather was mild and pleasant and we occasionally walked around without coats.
October is truffle season, I think, so while traveling through Tuscany, consider finding a truffle festival to attend (or at least make sure to eat some fresh white truffles). And drink the house wines if you're not a wine snob. Everywhere we ate (really, everywhere), a carafe of house wine was like €6 and miles better than even a fairly pricey glass in the US.
And use public transit (obviously). We didn't have a car and never felt we needed one. Venice and Florence were both small enough that we walked everywhere we wanted to go, and Rome has a perfectly useful network of buses and metros. The trains between cities, again, are abundant and affordable, and even got us outside of Florence a bit to experience one of those truffle festivals (San Miniato, I think).
I also really, really loved the museums. Even if you don't do anything else, please try to see the David at l'Accademia in Florence. It was truly the closest thing I've ever had to a religious experience. But also I really loved the Vatican Museum and the Uffizi (and many other museums that I bored my wife with).
Have fun!
posted by uncleozzy at 10:00 AM on March 7, 2023
I’ve been to Italy 8 times, and always want to go back when I get home.
Once you know your travel dates buy your longer-distance tickets well in advance (I think 6 months gets you the best discounts). I would also recommend the high speed trains (Frecciarosa and Italo), to maximize your time spent. Example: high speed train from Florence to Rome - 1 hour; “local” train - 3 hours (although with better scenery).
With only two weeks, you are wise to base yourselves in just three cities. Consider that each travel day is just that - a travel day without a huge amount of time for sightseeing that day.
Venice is magical. Try to book your lodging well away from St Mark’s square. You’ll experience more of the “real” Venice that way.
Cinque Terre is indeed lovely, but is quite a detour off your route, especially without a car. You can have grand day trip from Florence in either Lucca or Bologna, each are about an hour, with lots of trains running each day.
Consider one day of a guided tour in each city - I especially liked a “behind the scenes” tour of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. Also, I find tours of ruins really add to my understanding of what I’m seeing. I had wandered through the Forum and Palantine Hill in Rome, but a tour really made it come alive.
For the various art museums, there are some good downloadable self-tours.
Lastly, please don’t over-schedule yourself. My favorite part of any trip I’ve taken there are the days when I’ve just wandered, with no set itinerary. Leave at least one day in each place for just that.
I could go on. MeMail me for more specific recommendations, and have a *wonderful*trip!
posted by dbmcd at 10:07 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
Once you know your travel dates buy your longer-distance tickets well in advance (I think 6 months gets you the best discounts). I would also recommend the high speed trains (Frecciarosa and Italo), to maximize your time spent. Example: high speed train from Florence to Rome - 1 hour; “local” train - 3 hours (although with better scenery).
With only two weeks, you are wise to base yourselves in just three cities. Consider that each travel day is just that - a travel day without a huge amount of time for sightseeing that day.
Venice is magical. Try to book your lodging well away from St Mark’s square. You’ll experience more of the “real” Venice that way.
Cinque Terre is indeed lovely, but is quite a detour off your route, especially without a car. You can have grand day trip from Florence in either Lucca or Bologna, each are about an hour, with lots of trains running each day.
Consider one day of a guided tour in each city - I especially liked a “behind the scenes” tour of the Doge’s Palace in Venice. Also, I find tours of ruins really add to my understanding of what I’m seeing. I had wandered through the Forum and Palantine Hill in Rome, but a tour really made it come alive.
For the various art museums, there are some good downloadable self-tours.
Lastly, please don’t over-schedule yourself. My favorite part of any trip I’ve taken there are the days when I’ve just wandered, with no set itinerary. Leave at least one day in each place for just that.
I could go on. MeMail me for more specific recommendations, and have a *wonderful*trip!
posted by dbmcd at 10:07 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
Another vote for a couple days in Bologna with a day trip to Ravenna. Read The Sarantine Mosaic beforehand to prepare for the Ravenna mosaics. (And if you like it, read Kay's A Brightness Long Ago for Venice and Florence.)
Also don't skip Milan. One of the best cathedrals in Europe (take the rooftop tour), the wonderful whimsy of the Pinacoteca with Raphael's sketches for the School of Athens and Napoleon's gloves and Lucretia Borgia's hair, a castle straight out of Star Wars, and the Cimitiero Monumentale is a Gothic novel come to life. You could fit it in two days.
For Florence, my favourite was the Bargello museum - again an eclectic collection of carved ivories and Turkish carpets and votives and sculpture and paintings and furniture and EVERYTHING. Some of their best Donatellos are on loan in London right now, but by October they should be back in place.
posted by I claim sanctuary at 10:17 AM on March 7, 2023
Also don't skip Milan. One of the best cathedrals in Europe (take the rooftop tour), the wonderful whimsy of the Pinacoteca with Raphael's sketches for the School of Athens and Napoleon's gloves and Lucretia Borgia's hair, a castle straight out of Star Wars, and the Cimitiero Monumentale is a Gothic novel come to life. You could fit it in two days.
For Florence, my favourite was the Bargello museum - again an eclectic collection of carved ivories and Turkish carpets and votives and sculpture and paintings and furniture and EVERYTHING. Some of their best Donatellos are on loan in London right now, but by October they should be back in place.
posted by I claim sanctuary at 10:17 AM on March 7, 2023
Yet another vote for Bologna - the best food in the known universe, and for truly mythological gelato go directly to Il Gelatauro on Via San Vitale, perhaps after a delicious lunch at Spiga or Broccaindosso, provided you can still walk.
posted by remembrancer at 10:36 AM on March 7, 2023
posted by remembrancer at 10:36 AM on March 7, 2023
Consider adding a stop in Siena as you head toward Rome.
To be more specific, consider adding a stop in Siena so you can go to Prètto and get a sandwich.
posted by each day we work at 10:43 AM on March 7, 2023
To be more specific, consider adding a stop in Siena so you can go to Prètto and get a sandwich.
posted by each day we work at 10:43 AM on March 7, 2023
Ooh, and on-topic for Florence: there's some great food inside their central market (don't forget to check out the upstairs!), and down by the city center (near the Uffizi) there's a famous sandwich place All'antico Vinaio -- skip that, and go right nearby to Antico Salumificio Anzuini instead. Fewer people, ludicrously good (if you eat pork, mind).
posted by aramaic at 11:19 AM on March 7, 2023
posted by aramaic at 11:19 AM on March 7, 2023
Just wanted to add my vote for including a quick trip to Ravenna which is lovely, the mosaics are amazing, and there's good food to be had there too. I'd also like to mention Mantua (Mantova), beautiful Renaissance architecture and art.
posted by bitteschoen at 11:26 AM on March 7, 2023
posted by bitteschoen at 11:26 AM on March 7, 2023
Haven't read the responses but be sure to stop in a few hours to hilltop Orvieto for a meal and the incredible view.
posted by artdrectr at 4:44 PM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by artdrectr at 4:44 PM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]
Seconding Orvieto: beautiful views, stunning cathedral (including a chapel painted by Signorelli), and excellent food and wine (particularly if you go with local cured meats paired with local white wine).
In Venice, would highly recommend a visit to the restaurant or osteria here, which includes a lovely boat ride.
posted by earth by april at 5:15 PM on March 7, 2023
In Venice, would highly recommend a visit to the restaurant or osteria here, which includes a lovely boat ride.
posted by earth by april at 5:15 PM on March 7, 2023
When in Rome, stay in Testaccio or Trastevere and walk up the trail along the Tiber in the early morning. The Testaccio market has very good eats, especially the Sicilian suppli (fried rice balls with meat or cheese fillings).
posted by Sheydem-tants at 6:30 AM on March 9, 2023 [2 favorites]
posted by Sheydem-tants at 6:30 AM on March 9, 2023 [2 favorites]
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by JimN2TAW at 9:24 AM on March 7, 2023 [1 favorite]