I think we're going to Germany for Christmas?
October 4, 2023 6:12 AM Subscribe
I'm looking for some firsthand experience in the Dresden/Leipzig/Berlin area in the December timeframe.
On a whim, we've decided to spend some time in December in Germany mostly to visit some Christmas markets and enjoy some seasonal fun. Right now I'm focusing planning on splitting time between Leipzig and Dresden, but my in-laws may be joining us so we may swap one of those cities with Berlin instead. I can speak and understand enough German to get us around.
I can read a guidebook as well as the next person, so what I'm looking for is any specific experience with seasonal events in any of those cities or greater Saxony that would be interesting to look into. I would especially be interested to learn about any Christmas markets in the area that are a little unique/different (my wife nor her parents have never experienced this before, so we'll do the tradidtional thing, but there's only so much Kathe Wolfhart I can look at).
Some examples I've been thinking about: I already looked into getting tickets for the St. Thomas boys choir, but they're sold out. It looks like Wackerbarth winery is doing some sort of winterlights thing with a special menu/tasting event. And there's an artisans market in one of the Dresden suburbs that's supposed to focus more on local handmade stuff. What's along those lines?
On a whim, we've decided to spend some time in December in Germany mostly to visit some Christmas markets and enjoy some seasonal fun. Right now I'm focusing planning on splitting time between Leipzig and Dresden, but my in-laws may be joining us so we may swap one of those cities with Berlin instead. I can speak and understand enough German to get us around.
I can read a guidebook as well as the next person, so what I'm looking for is any specific experience with seasonal events in any of those cities or greater Saxony that would be interesting to look into. I would especially be interested to learn about any Christmas markets in the area that are a little unique/different (my wife nor her parents have never experienced this before, so we'll do the tradidtional thing, but there's only so much Kathe Wolfhart I can look at).
Some examples I've been thinking about: I already looked into getting tickets for the St. Thomas boys choir, but they're sold out. It looks like Wackerbarth winery is doing some sort of winterlights thing with a special menu/tasting event. And there's an artisans market in one of the Dresden suburbs that's supposed to focus more on local handmade stuff. What's along those lines?
I visited Germany last year from Dec 25-Jan 1. There are a lot of fun holiday markets in Berlin, as you mention; we visited the one at Charlottenburg Palace at night, which I definitely recommend. It was pretty big and had a cool light display. We went to a few others, including Alexanderplatz, but they weren't too dissimilar. Seconding babelfish's comment about the botanical garden as well.
I speak no German and did not encounter any issues with that. By the way, I suggest having cash on hand, as a lot of places such as restaurants and public transit may not accept credit cards.
Hope you have a great time!
posted by wicked_sassy at 9:05 AM on October 4, 2023
I speak no German and did not encounter any issues with that. By the way, I suggest having cash on hand, as a lot of places such as restaurants and public transit may not accept credit cards.
Hope you have a great time!
posted by wicked_sassy at 9:05 AM on October 4, 2023
I hear you about Käthe Wohlfahrt. For less-crowded and more special Christmas markets, use the search terms "nostalgisch", "romantisch" or (especially if you like fire, medieval costumes, and a more "unplugged" feel) "mittelalterlich". You can also check out this list. Go on weekdays if possible. Don't go before dark - that's just not fun.
There's a town called Schneeberg in Saxony that markets itself as the town of year-round Christmas. If you're looking for wooden figurines with moving parts, Christmassy baked goods, or Germans in traditional costumes playing brass instruments, this is where you'll find them.
Germans generally like music but tend to be shy about singing in public, so a new-ish tradition to fill that void is a thing called "Rudelsingen". This is an event, often outdoors and at night, where song lyrics are projected onto a giant screen and the crowd sings together. It's fun, and there's sure to be special Christmas events at least in Berlin. You don't need to speak German to enjoy the songs because there's always popular English songs included, and many of the traditional songs have an English version you can just sing for yourself, too. There aren't many of these events though, so reserve tickets soon if you're interested. If you happen to be in Dresden around December 10th, they put on this thing called "Taschenlampen-Weihnachtssingen". That's just a big concert similar to the Rudelsingen idea, except everyone brings a flashlight and waves it around. I don't know - it's supposed to be really fun, but I have not been to that particular event.
The Christmas concerts in the bigger concert halls are almost guaranteed to be amazing. Here's one in Leipzig that's sure to be really good. However, many, many churches also put on a great "Weihnachtsoratorium" for a low price (or even for free). Once you know your rough schedule, googling that term and your city name should give you an overview.
I've been in Berlin in December, and I remember being pretty miserable because it's just so cold. Big cities like Berlin can become dismal when there's constant freezing rain and only 7-8 hours of daylight. So I think I'd just focus on visiting as many museums as possible. The spy museum, for example! A boat ride might be a good way to enjoy city sights and lights while staying warm. The KaDeWe can feel pretty Christmassy, but will be crowded on nights and especially weekends. I know I'd definitely visit the Christmas show of Circus Roncalli, which is always worth a visit (and ahead of its time because you won't see any wild animals).
PS: Are you sure the choir is sold out already? They're good, sure...but I find that hard to believe.
posted by toucan at 10:49 AM on October 4, 2023 [1 favorite]
There's a town called Schneeberg in Saxony that markets itself as the town of year-round Christmas. If you're looking for wooden figurines with moving parts, Christmassy baked goods, or Germans in traditional costumes playing brass instruments, this is where you'll find them.
Germans generally like music but tend to be shy about singing in public, so a new-ish tradition to fill that void is a thing called "Rudelsingen". This is an event, often outdoors and at night, where song lyrics are projected onto a giant screen and the crowd sings together. It's fun, and there's sure to be special Christmas events at least in Berlin. You don't need to speak German to enjoy the songs because there's always popular English songs included, and many of the traditional songs have an English version you can just sing for yourself, too. There aren't many of these events though, so reserve tickets soon if you're interested. If you happen to be in Dresden around December 10th, they put on this thing called "Taschenlampen-Weihnachtssingen". That's just a big concert similar to the Rudelsingen idea, except everyone brings a flashlight and waves it around. I don't know - it's supposed to be really fun, but I have not been to that particular event.
The Christmas concerts in the bigger concert halls are almost guaranteed to be amazing. Here's one in Leipzig that's sure to be really good. However, many, many churches also put on a great "Weihnachtsoratorium" for a low price (or even for free). Once you know your rough schedule, googling that term and your city name should give you an overview.
I've been in Berlin in December, and I remember being pretty miserable because it's just so cold. Big cities like Berlin can become dismal when there's constant freezing rain and only 7-8 hours of daylight. So I think I'd just focus on visiting as many museums as possible. The spy museum, for example! A boat ride might be a good way to enjoy city sights and lights while staying warm. The KaDeWe can feel pretty Christmassy, but will be crowded on nights and especially weekends. I know I'd definitely visit the Christmas show of Circus Roncalli, which is always worth a visit (and ahead of its time because you won't see any wild animals).
PS: Are you sure the choir is sold out already? They're good, sure...but I find that hard to believe.
posted by toucan at 10:49 AM on October 4, 2023 [1 favorite]
If you can manage to swing by Nurnberg, you'll experience the most famous and glorious Kriskindelmart of them all.
posted by Czjewel at 11:49 AM on October 4, 2023
posted by Czjewel at 11:49 AM on October 4, 2023
If you're trying to decide, Dresden is absolutely stunning. I had the best time staying there for a couple nights, walking around and taking in all the architecture, something Berlin lacks. Lots of things to do there, too. I haven't been to Leipzig, though, so I wouldn't know about that! I hope you have a great time!
posted by lianove3 at 12:09 PM on October 4, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by lianove3 at 12:09 PM on October 4, 2023 [1 favorite]
I am not a big fan of typical US Christmas kitsch, but I do love me some of the stuff in Kaethe Wohlfahrt, so take what I say with a grain of salt. First of all, Berlin is a really big city, there are literally 30 Christmas markets, so you'll certainly find one or two that are to your liking. The Kaethe Wohlfahrt shop is just two stops (4 minutes) on the U-bahn away from the LGBTQIA Winterdays at Nollendorfplatz, so you can choose one or both! Some focus on handmade items, art, take your pick. The Berlin Philharmonic has seasonal shows (with surprisingly well-dressed families) if you like that. And the enormous indoor waterpark Tropical Islands is a quick train ride away and a ton of fun.
As far as Berlin at Christmas, I bet you already know but Christmas Eve is the big holiday. I was thinking, oh, Berlin is one of the largest cities, we'll have no problem, but the largest grocery store chain was closed despite no info on the website and didn't open again until later on Christmas Day. Ditto even the convenience stores. Definitely had a bit of that "A Christmas Story" feel to be walking around trying to find a curry shop that was open. We had reservations for dinner on Christmas Day but the bread was stale, probably would have been better off feeding ourselves. And many of the Christmas markets close for the season on the 23rd.
Yes, to carrying cash, and a bit of German is helpful but not really necessary.
posted by wnissen at 2:47 PM on October 5, 2023
As far as Berlin at Christmas, I bet you already know but Christmas Eve is the big holiday. I was thinking, oh, Berlin is one of the largest cities, we'll have no problem, but the largest grocery store chain was closed despite no info on the website and didn't open again until later on Christmas Day. Ditto even the convenience stores. Definitely had a bit of that "A Christmas Story" feel to be walking around trying to find a curry shop that was open. We had reservations for dinner on Christmas Day but the bread was stale, probably would have been better off feeding ourselves. And many of the Christmas markets close for the season on the 23rd.
Yes, to carrying cash, and a bit of German is helpful but not really necessary.
posted by wnissen at 2:47 PM on October 5, 2023
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posted by babelfish at 7:38 AM on October 4, 2023