Help plan a trip Porto/Northern Portugal at the end of the year
September 25, 2023 6:06 PM Subscribe
We're planning to visit Portugal at the end of the year. Yes, we know that this is not the ideal time to visit, but this is what's worked out on the schedule. We've spent more time in central/south Portugal, want to see some of the north this time.
What we know right now:
a) it'll be damp and cold.
b) everything shuts down for the 24th and 25th.
c) buildings are not necessarily heated (and there seems to be some "fluidity" in how heat is defined in the airbnb/vrbo listings, so we're looking at them with an eye to "are there really radiators in the room or are they counting the fireplace in the living room as the heat").
Given the above, our thinking is that we stay in a hotel in Porto for those two days, one big enough to have an operating restaurant (and we'll check on that before we book). Good idea, or go the airbnb route and plan on shopping for food on the 23rd?
Anything we should definitely plan on otherwise? Does this seem like it'll work?
Haven't decided how we'll get around yet, but thinking of renting a car. On previous trips we've done the train/bus/foot thing, but want to get out in the countryside a little.
What we know right now:
a) it'll be damp and cold.
b) everything shuts down for the 24th and 25th.
c) buildings are not necessarily heated (and there seems to be some "fluidity" in how heat is defined in the airbnb/vrbo listings, so we're looking at them with an eye to "are there really radiators in the room or are they counting the fireplace in the living room as the heat").
Given the above, our thinking is that we stay in a hotel in Porto for those two days, one big enough to have an operating restaurant (and we'll check on that before we book). Good idea, or go the airbnb route and plan on shopping for food on the 23rd?
Anything we should definitely plan on otherwise? Does this seem like it'll work?
Haven't decided how we'll get around yet, but thinking of renting a car. On previous trips we've done the train/bus/foot thing, but want to get out in the countryside a little.
My portuguese spouse adds that there will be restaurants open on those days, especially if you have a preference for Chinese food or food from other non-christmas observant cultures.
posted by vacapinta at 8:13 PM on September 25, 2023
posted by vacapinta at 8:13 PM on September 25, 2023
To answer some of your more general questions, I'd recommend picking up the new(ish) Rough Guide to Portugal that came out in February 2023. I usually find they are a lot more comprehensive in smaller, more rural corners of destinations than Lonely Planet, and they throw in the ebook for free if you buy the paper guidebook, which is great if you're traveling with someone else.
Also, you'll find that the British and Irish press write about travel to Portugal quite a lot, which makes sense given how close they are. The Guardian, for example, has these relatively recent articles which might give you some ideas for trips to the north of the country:
- "Off the beaten track in northern Portugal": https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2023/jul/09/off-the-beaten-track-in-northern-portugal
- "Rail journey of the month: Lisbon to Vigo via Porto, past dunes, rivers and the Atlantic": https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2022/dec/06/rail-journey-of-the-month-lisbon-vigo-porto-train-railway-portugal-spain
And a lovely more narrative piece from the Irish Times, in 2017:
"Ancient stories written in stone in north Portugal": https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/travel/ancient-stories-written-in-stone-in-north-portugal-1.3113931
posted by mdonley at 10:40 PM on September 25, 2023
Also, you'll find that the British and Irish press write about travel to Portugal quite a lot, which makes sense given how close they are. The Guardian, for example, has these relatively recent articles which might give you some ideas for trips to the north of the country:
- "Off the beaten track in northern Portugal": https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2023/jul/09/off-the-beaten-track-in-northern-portugal
- "Rail journey of the month: Lisbon to Vigo via Porto, past dunes, rivers and the Atlantic": https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2022/dec/06/rail-journey-of-the-month-lisbon-vigo-porto-train-railway-portugal-spain
And a lovely more narrative piece from the Irish Times, in 2017:
"Ancient stories written in stone in north Portugal": https://www.irishtimes.com/life-and-style/travel/ancient-stories-written-in-stone-in-north-portugal-1.3113931
posted by mdonley at 10:40 PM on September 25, 2023
Porto. Mercado do Bolhão has the December virtue of being covered. Marvel at the kale-shredding machines without which caldo verde would be a challenge rather than a delight. If it's not raining, then the Thursday market at Barcelos has something for everyone. I think you can catch a train from São Bento [20,000 tiles!] train station in Porto.
I have a soft spot for Caminha at the mouth of the R Minho: not least because you can pootle across the river to Spain on a little ferry.
posted by BobTheScientist at 2:01 AM on September 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
I have a soft spot for Caminha at the mouth of the R Minho: not least because you can pootle across the river to Spain on a little ferry.
posted by BobTheScientist at 2:01 AM on September 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
I have no clue if they’ll be open around Christmas, but I ended up eating at VietView in Porto twice in two days. Part of that is that I’m not a big bread person and was craving rice after 2 weeks in Spain and Portugal, but also because the food was so good.
posted by raccoon409 at 5:09 AM on September 26, 2023
posted by raccoon409 at 5:09 AM on September 26, 2023
Response by poster: I have no clue if they’ll be open around Christmas, but I ended up eating at VietView in Porto twice in two days.
That's wild. When we visited Porto last summer we were staying at an Airbnb in Cedofeita and ended up eating a couple of meals at VietView. That garden out back is indeed pleasant in the summer.
posted by Runes at 9:41 AM on September 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
That's wild. When we visited Porto last summer we were staying at an Airbnb in Cedofeita and ended up eating a couple of meals at VietView. That garden out back is indeed pleasant in the summer.
posted by Runes at 9:41 AM on September 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
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Week) and really liked it. They have a restaurant and bar, the rooms are nice, the location is great, walking distance from the river, but not right in the thick of the crowds.
posted by outfielder at 7:27 PM on September 25, 2023