Your favorite restaurants in Rome
August 26, 2023 3:21 PM Subscribe
My girlfriend and I are headed to Rome in October, so we'd love your recommendations for your favorite restaurants! Any and all suggestions are welcome, for all price ranges and types of restaurants. (It's just the two of us, no kids.) The only thing we want to avoid are touristy places. Ciao!
Definitely go to the Jewish ghetto and have fried Jewish artichokes. Here is a list of places you could try, I always went to Pompiere.
posted by hungrytiger at 3:44 PM on August 26, 2023 [2 favorites]
posted by hungrytiger at 3:44 PM on August 26, 2023 [2 favorites]
I visited over a decade ago and the most memorable dinner we had was at Eau Vive. It's run by nuns but you don't have to be religious to appreciate it. Is it touristy? Well, not exactly, but definitely a unique experience.
posted by roue at 4:43 PM on August 26, 2023
posted by roue at 4:43 PM on August 26, 2023
I love Rome! Recommendations below - a lot of Monti as that is where I spent most of my time in Rome.
Temakinho Monti - Brazilian sushi
Via dei Serpenti, 16, 00184 (a couple of other locations as well)
Zia Rosetta - sandwiches
Via Urbana, 54, 00184
Glass Hostaria - Michelin-starred chef Cristina Bowerman
Vicolo del Cinque, 58, 00153
Ba Ghetto Milky - Jewish Ghetto - Vegetarian
Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 2/A, 00186
Marigold - breakfast, lunch, brunch
via giovanni da empoli, 37, 00154
Pianostrada
Via delle Zoccolette, 22, 00186
Marzapane - tasting menus
Via Flaminia, 64, 00196
L'Eau Vive - French restaurant run by Carmelite nuns
Via Monterone, 85, 00186
Ilios - Greek
Via Gabriello Chiabrera, 114/120, 00145
Litro - wine bar
Via Fratelli Bonnet, 5, 00152
Toros y Tapas - Spanish
Via Nomentana, 79, 00161
Ai Tre Scalini - wine (Monti) - good for aperitivo
Via Panisperna, 251, 00184
Sitar - North Indian (Monti)
Via Cavour, 256, 00184
posted by cessair at 5:40 PM on August 26, 2023 [3 favorites]
Temakinho Monti - Brazilian sushi
Via dei Serpenti, 16, 00184 (a couple of other locations as well)
Zia Rosetta - sandwiches
Via Urbana, 54, 00184
Glass Hostaria - Michelin-starred chef Cristina Bowerman
Vicolo del Cinque, 58, 00153
Ba Ghetto Milky - Jewish Ghetto - Vegetarian
Via del Portico d'Ottavia, 2/A, 00186
Marigold - breakfast, lunch, brunch
via giovanni da empoli, 37, 00154
Pianostrada
Via delle Zoccolette, 22, 00186
Marzapane - tasting menus
Via Flaminia, 64, 00196
L'Eau Vive - French restaurant run by Carmelite nuns
Via Monterone, 85, 00186
Ilios - Greek
Via Gabriello Chiabrera, 114/120, 00145
Litro - wine bar
Via Fratelli Bonnet, 5, 00152
Toros y Tapas - Spanish
Via Nomentana, 79, 00161
Ai Tre Scalini - wine (Monti) - good for aperitivo
Via Panisperna, 251, 00184
Sitar - North Indian (Monti)
Via Cavour, 256, 00184
posted by cessair at 5:40 PM on August 26, 2023 [3 favorites]
1) For a casual lunch or slightly more dressy dinner dinner, I love, love, love La Lampada on Via Quintino Sella 25, a one-minute walk right around the corner from Hotel Grand Italia. It's Mediterranean cuisine in a tucked away little strip of restaurants and shops and quite unassuming from the outside.
La Lampada doesn't have it's own website, just the FB page, but here's a link to read more. My friend and I were super-hungry and pressed for time before having to leave Rome; they weren't even officially open for another 30 minutes, but they insisted on giving us glasses of Proseco (I passed mine to my friend) and something to snack on while we waited a few moments on their patio. I recommended it to a friend and she, her husband, and normally-picky small child ate there three times in the week they were in Rome!
2) If you don't have dessert at La Lampada, just walk out the door to the right, go a few steps, and head up Via Giasuè Carducci about 75 feet and Come Il Latte has a wonderful variety of gelato (and much better than in most of Rome, our friend told us).
3) If you're going to head to Rome's Jewish Ghetto (and you should, and you should visit the museum), decide in advance whether you're going to want to each a meal with meat or dairy, as kosher restaurants will not mix the two. (Not every restaurant there is strictly kosher, but be prepared.) Also, know that fish is considered pareve, or neither meat nor dairy, so you can be assured of getting something substantial wherever you dine there.
For a teeny area, there are a surprising number and variety of restaurants. We had lunch at the famed Nonna Betta on Via del Portico d'Ottavia, not knowing how famous it was. For both culinary and cultural reasons, it's a trip. You should definitely try the Carciofo alla giudia, "Jewish-style" fried artichokes. (Some people will tell you only to have it in March, or only in the spring. We had it in late September and it was delish!)
I'd recommend going at lunchtime instead of dinner, as you'll have a much better opportunity of seeing the sights. It's quite close to the Colosseum, maybe a 15-20 minute walk, so perhaps do them the same day; it's about 15 minutes from Piazza Navona.
Speaking of which, we'd started meandering from Piazza Navona toward Campo di Fiori (maybe 5 minutes away), a fabulous little farmers' market, and saw a restaurant with two grandmotherly types making pasta in the window. We thought it would be great, but of the dozen of us who went to Osteria da Fortunata agreed that it was mediocre at best. Depending on what people ate, it was either bland-to-tasteless over inedibly salty. While it's possible we were there on a bad day (and, admittedly, it was packed), I'd say visit Campo di Fiori midday, but have lunch elsewhere.
4) Finally, for an intimate dinner with impeccable service, I can't recommend Osteria del Sostegno highly enough. It's traditional Italian food, with lots of delightful little flavor twists.
Osteria del Sostegno is at Via delle Colonnelle, 5, but you can't drive directly there. If you're taking a taxi, it'll probably drop you at Piazza Capranica, so know that you'll have to get out and walk the last couple of minutes. (Turn up the alley off of Via delle Colonnelle at the Florence Moon leather goods store...there's nothing much else in that alley except twinkly lights.
There are only a handful of tables, some inside and some "outside" but sort of under a cozy sheltered area in front of interior portion of the restaurant. It's in the alley, but it feels like you're inside. They are open for lunch (12:30p onward) but it's magical at night. Oh, and they're closed Mondays. Definitely make reservations, or better yet, have your concierge do it.
Their website can be wonky, but their food is good at the atmosphere quaint and authentic, definitely not touristy, and if the weather is nice, you'll enjoy walking around the area.
I still dream about their Carpaccio di Salmone affumicato, and their dessert menu is divine!
And now I wish I'd had cessair's list before I went!
posted by The Wrong Kind of Cheese at 8:00 PM on August 26, 2023
La Lampada doesn't have it's own website, just the FB page, but here's a link to read more. My friend and I were super-hungry and pressed for time before having to leave Rome; they weren't even officially open for another 30 minutes, but they insisted on giving us glasses of Proseco (I passed mine to my friend) and something to snack on while we waited a few moments on their patio. I recommended it to a friend and she, her husband, and normally-picky small child ate there three times in the week they were in Rome!
2) If you don't have dessert at La Lampada, just walk out the door to the right, go a few steps, and head up Via Giasuè Carducci about 75 feet and Come Il Latte has a wonderful variety of gelato (and much better than in most of Rome, our friend told us).
3) If you're going to head to Rome's Jewish Ghetto (and you should, and you should visit the museum), decide in advance whether you're going to want to each a meal with meat or dairy, as kosher restaurants will not mix the two. (Not every restaurant there is strictly kosher, but be prepared.) Also, know that fish is considered pareve, or neither meat nor dairy, so you can be assured of getting something substantial wherever you dine there.
For a teeny area, there are a surprising number and variety of restaurants. We had lunch at the famed Nonna Betta on Via del Portico d'Ottavia, not knowing how famous it was. For both culinary and cultural reasons, it's a trip. You should definitely try the Carciofo alla giudia, "Jewish-style" fried artichokes. (Some people will tell you only to have it in March, or only in the spring. We had it in late September and it was delish!)
I'd recommend going at lunchtime instead of dinner, as you'll have a much better opportunity of seeing the sights. It's quite close to the Colosseum, maybe a 15-20 minute walk, so perhaps do them the same day; it's about 15 minutes from Piazza Navona.
Speaking of which, we'd started meandering from Piazza Navona toward Campo di Fiori (maybe 5 minutes away), a fabulous little farmers' market, and saw a restaurant with two grandmotherly types making pasta in the window. We thought it would be great, but of the dozen of us who went to Osteria da Fortunata agreed that it was mediocre at best. Depending on what people ate, it was either bland-to-tasteless over inedibly salty. While it's possible we were there on a bad day (and, admittedly, it was packed), I'd say visit Campo di Fiori midday, but have lunch elsewhere.
4) Finally, for an intimate dinner with impeccable service, I can't recommend Osteria del Sostegno highly enough. It's traditional Italian food, with lots of delightful little flavor twists.
Osteria del Sostegno is at Via delle Colonnelle, 5, but you can't drive directly there. If you're taking a taxi, it'll probably drop you at Piazza Capranica, so know that you'll have to get out and walk the last couple of minutes. (Turn up the alley off of Via delle Colonnelle at the Florence Moon leather goods store...there's nothing much else in that alley except twinkly lights.
There are only a handful of tables, some inside and some "outside" but sort of under a cozy sheltered area in front of interior portion of the restaurant. It's in the alley, but it feels like you're inside. They are open for lunch (12:30p onward) but it's magical at night. Oh, and they're closed Mondays. Definitely make reservations, or better yet, have your concierge do it.
Their website can be wonky, but their food is good at the atmosphere quaint and authentic, definitely not touristy, and if the weather is nice, you'll enjoy walking around the area.
I still dream about their Carpaccio di Salmone affumicato, and their dessert menu is divine!
And now I wish I'd had cessair's list before I went!
posted by The Wrong Kind of Cheese at 8:00 PM on August 26, 2023
I visited over a decade ago and the most memorable dinner we had was at Eau Vive. It's run by nuns but you don't have to be religious to appreciate it. Is it touristy? Well, not exactly, but definitely a unique experience.
Seconded. I went here maybe 25 years ago and it's stuck with me, obviously partially because of the nuns but also because it was just plain good.
posted by brundlefly at 11:50 PM on August 26, 2023
Seconded. I went here maybe 25 years ago and it's stuck with me, obviously partially because of the nuns but also because it was just plain good.
posted by brundlefly at 11:50 PM on August 26, 2023
Rome is the best place to go! It is romantic, the food is great, and there is so much to explore.
The Jewish restaurants in the Ghetto are fascinating, and I personally love the fried fish.
Katie Parla is a great guide to what is new and relevant in the city. Explore her site and social media for up-to-date information. Rome is going through a cultural renaissance, and there are tons of interesting new places to visit. I look to Katie every time I go to Rome, and I defer to her when it comes to contemporary food.
There are a few old traditional places I return to again and again.
Da Pietro al Pantheon (facebook page). It's a tiny restaurant in a very touristic area, but the quality is always amazing, and service is friendly. Lots and lots of the patrons are local or tourists who return every time they are in Rome, like me. You need to reserve a table, but I often just go personally in the late morning to get my table for dinner.
Da Enzo is a similarly traditional place, but also extremely trendy, there will be very long lines, even with a reservation. It's the place to go for feeling hip in Rome. I have been known to stay at a place in the same street, just so I could hit the line early.
Antica Osteria Da Giovanni, on the Tiber (Via della Lungara 41) is so traditional it might feel a bit obscure. They don't speak English, and they still follow the old tradition of having antipasto, primo (pasta, rice or soup), secondo (meat or fish or some vegetarian mains) and cheese and/or dessert. This is how all of Rome was 40 years ago.
Ristorante Da Sabatino is the kind of place Italian politicians bring foreign guests to. I host a dinner there once a year. I've celebrated Christmas there. They are known for their good pizza and amazing antipasto buffet with bread from their pizza oven. I love the place, but it isn't trendy, despite the famous guests, and not all of their dishes are perfect. If you are lucky with the weather, their outdoor seating is great. Have a pizza for lunch there.
There is a restaurant that looks very much like a tourist trap, but really isn't: Angelino ai Fori. I mean, they serve thousands of tourists, but they keep up a high standard and fair prices in their amazing location. Great for lunch, and they have a little gelato-bar that is also excellent.
There is a little square, Sant' Eustacio, where there is a pizzaria and a café. The café is generally known as having the best coffee in Rome. The pizzeria, where they do slices, is also very well rated. Both have long lines, but are worth the wait. It's very near the l'Eau Vive mentioned above, though I have to say I can't figure out why to eat French food when in Rome.
Trattoria Luzzi near the San Clemente church is absolutely worth visiting. The atmosphere and food are great, and the value for money is incredible. It's always full, but I usually stand in line rather than make reservations. You do you.
BTW, I strongly recommend that you eat the season. Autumn is the time for game and mushrooms. Funghi Porcini are the great delicacy of the season, along with truffles. There will also be rabbit, hare and wild boar. Visit a market to see what else is in season. The Campo di Fiori is nice, albeit very touristic. But you can get an overview of what might be fresh on your plate that day. The Testaccio market has been modernized, and I feel it has lost a bit of it's old atmosphere, but it still has great stalls for street food. The restaurants in that area are mostly excellent and traditional.
posted by mumimor at 1:21 AM on August 27, 2023 [5 favorites]
The Jewish restaurants in the Ghetto are fascinating, and I personally love the fried fish.
Katie Parla is a great guide to what is new and relevant in the city. Explore her site and social media for up-to-date information. Rome is going through a cultural renaissance, and there are tons of interesting new places to visit. I look to Katie every time I go to Rome, and I defer to her when it comes to contemporary food.
There are a few old traditional places I return to again and again.
Da Pietro al Pantheon (facebook page). It's a tiny restaurant in a very touristic area, but the quality is always amazing, and service is friendly. Lots and lots of the patrons are local or tourists who return every time they are in Rome, like me. You need to reserve a table, but I often just go personally in the late morning to get my table for dinner.
Da Enzo is a similarly traditional place, but also extremely trendy, there will be very long lines, even with a reservation. It's the place to go for feeling hip in Rome. I have been known to stay at a place in the same street, just so I could hit the line early.
Antica Osteria Da Giovanni, on the Tiber (Via della Lungara 41) is so traditional it might feel a bit obscure. They don't speak English, and they still follow the old tradition of having antipasto, primo (pasta, rice or soup), secondo (meat or fish or some vegetarian mains) and cheese and/or dessert. This is how all of Rome was 40 years ago.
Ristorante Da Sabatino is the kind of place Italian politicians bring foreign guests to. I host a dinner there once a year. I've celebrated Christmas there. They are known for their good pizza and amazing antipasto buffet with bread from their pizza oven. I love the place, but it isn't trendy, despite the famous guests, and not all of their dishes are perfect. If you are lucky with the weather, their outdoor seating is great. Have a pizza for lunch there.
There is a restaurant that looks very much like a tourist trap, but really isn't: Angelino ai Fori. I mean, they serve thousands of tourists, but they keep up a high standard and fair prices in their amazing location. Great for lunch, and they have a little gelato-bar that is also excellent.
There is a little square, Sant' Eustacio, where there is a pizzaria and a café. The café is generally known as having the best coffee in Rome. The pizzeria, where they do slices, is also very well rated. Both have long lines, but are worth the wait. It's very near the l'Eau Vive mentioned above, though I have to say I can't figure out why to eat French food when in Rome.
Trattoria Luzzi near the San Clemente church is absolutely worth visiting. The atmosphere and food are great, and the value for money is incredible. It's always full, but I usually stand in line rather than make reservations. You do you.
BTW, I strongly recommend that you eat the season. Autumn is the time for game and mushrooms. Funghi Porcini are the great delicacy of the season, along with truffles. There will also be rabbit, hare and wild boar. Visit a market to see what else is in season. The Campo di Fiori is nice, albeit very touristic. But you can get an overview of what might be fresh on your plate that day. The Testaccio market has been modernized, and I feel it has lost a bit of it's old atmosphere, but it still has great stalls for street food. The restaurants in that area are mostly excellent and traditional.
posted by mumimor at 1:21 AM on August 27, 2023 [5 favorites]
Wait, because I sort of handed over contemporary eateries to Katie Parla, I didn't mention SUD. but I should have. SUD in in the Flaminio district and absolutely gorgeous. I can't find a website, but it is Via Pasquale Stanislao Mancini, 3.
It is traditional Italian food, and at the same time a fresh and young place, glamorous, but also local. When we were there, both the staff and other guests engaged in a nice way, we felt very welcome. I will definitely go back again and again.
posted by mumimor at 3:18 AM on August 27, 2023 [1 favorite]
It is traditional Italian food, and at the same time a fresh and young place, glamorous, but also local. When we were there, both the staff and other guests engaged in a nice way, we felt very welcome. I will definitely go back again and again.
posted by mumimor at 3:18 AM on August 27, 2023 [1 favorite]
Dar Filettaro a Santa Barbara at Largo dei Librari, 88, 00186 is a charmingly unaffected, timeless hole-in-the-wall for filetti di baccalà, puntarelle salad, house wine and not much else. If you like fish and chips, you owe this to yourselves, and the church next door is cute, too. One dollar sign, five stars.
posted by mumkin at 8:24 AM on August 27, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by mumkin at 8:24 AM on August 27, 2023 [1 favorite]
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posted by entropone at 3:37 PM on August 26, 2023 [3 favorites]