Normandy and Brittany in September
July 12, 2023 3:26 PM Subscribe
We know about Mont St Michel and Saint-Malo. We will get oysters in Cancale. We know about the Bayeux tapestry. We are not interested in anything WWll related. We will eat butter and camembert.
Do we need a car? We have traveled by train and bus in other parts of France without much consternation. Any specific recommendations in these areas? Any calvados or cider destinations that can't be missed? Any food experiences that we must not skip? Food experiences that exclude eggs are especially of interest. We understand that pastries and crepes will be an issue. We are certainly willing to splurge a couple of times for an outstanding experience, but flavor reigns supreme. This will be for September 2024 if that makes a difference.
Do we need a car? We have traveled by train and bus in other parts of France without much consternation. Any specific recommendations in these areas? Any calvados or cider destinations that can't be missed? Any food experiences that we must not skip? Food experiences that exclude eggs are especially of interest. We understand that pastries and crepes will be an issue. We are certainly willing to splurge a couple of times for an outstanding experience, but flavor reigns supreme. This will be for September 2024 if that makes a difference.
I've visited Brittany for work multiple times and getting between most of the town's was a drag without a car. I don't drive so am used to organising my own transport, and it was still a drag by my usual standards.
posted by biffa at 4:25 PM on July 12, 2023 [3 favorites]
posted by biffa at 4:25 PM on July 12, 2023 [3 favorites]
Have not been in that region, but have traveled elsewhere in rural France, and a car was extremely useful/necessary.
posted by Artifice_Eternity at 5:19 PM on July 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
posted by Artifice_Eternity at 5:19 PM on July 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
Cara-meuh does some great caramel and it’s a fun stop. Walking to Mont St. Michel at low tide is really fun, but of course you need to do a guided tour so you don’t get stuck and drown. There’s Carnac and other megalithic stuff if that is interesting to you. Cousteau’s second ship, the turbo-voile Alcyon was in Caen last time we were there. No one was around, so we just walked right onto it. I agree with others that a car seems very useful in these areas. I always had one and I don’t know how they are navigated without, but we were also visiting a lot of friends in small towns.
posted by snofoam at 6:14 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by snofoam at 6:14 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
I did an (organized) bike tour in the area a bit before Covid, with chartered bus transfers a couple times. The highlights really are the charming small towns and I can't imagine doing it on my own without a car.
If you like medieval cities I'd also try to find time to walk around Dinan, about 20 miles from St. Malo.
posted by mark k at 6:41 PM on July 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
If you like medieval cities I'd also try to find time to walk around Dinan, about 20 miles from St. Malo.
posted by mark k at 6:41 PM on July 12, 2023 [2 favorites]
You can stick to public transit if you are located in Rennes and then do day trips from there (or Caen if going over to Normandy) but it will be much easier with a car. I was an English language assistant in Coutances for a year so I had my fair share of traveling all over the area by public transport and id highly recommend doing it with a car.
posted by raccoon409 at 7:04 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by raccoon409 at 7:04 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
Speaking as someone who visits the area semi-regularly due to having family there: you need a car.
From my militantly Breton husband (with some edits from me):
Normandy Places : Étretat which is in Haute-Normandie. Beautiful cliffs and views.
Brittany places : As you mentioned: St-Malo, Cancale, Mt Saint-Michel, (which is in Brittany according to Brittany people and in Normandy according to idiots), Golfe du Morbihan (South Brittany), Chateaux des ducs de Bretagne (Nantes & Nantes area), Pont de l'Iroise (finistere), Pointe de Crozon (Finistere), the "edge of the world" (Finistere), Presqu'ile de Quiberon - cote sauvage, Carnac monoliths (the city of Carnac is very touristy, avoid it). If you want a restaurant recommendation for Saint Malo, Effet Mer (pun intended) is delicious, seasonal, and intimate.
Brittany food : Anywhere you'll go you will find crepes and galettes, or in some area they'll call everything crêpes (and have a different recipe, they both have their interest). Galettes are meant to be simple and the traditional galette complet can be made without an egg on top. In the Golfe du Morbihan, the best galettes are at Le Galichan, in Sarzeau. For "original", non-traditional galettes, Le Loup Le Renard et La Galette is quite good. If you find a cart, a van that sells them, chances are it will be good (if not in a touristy area, try local markets). For authentic, rustic food in Finistère (west Brittany), Auberge Le Puits de Jeanne in Plouegat-Moysan is a must-see. In central Brittany, Crêperie Des Forges in Cadoret provides an intimate, family style experience and really good crepes. We are famous for our salted butter caramel, a must-try. Also famous for our butter au sel de Guerande, try the one with little crystals. Kouign-amann is our national pastry, it can be tricky to find really good ones but if you have nothing to compare it to, you'll be in for a treat anyway. Check out Le Tandem in Vannes for a very good example of Kouign-amann accompanied with lait ribot (Breton buttermillk) sorbet and other delicious food.
Normandy is better for cream and cheeses, Brittany is better for butter, caramel, andouilles (a traditional "sausage", look for Andouillette de Guemené NOT FAÇON GUEMENÉ, it has to be from there. Forget about Andouille de Vire in Normandy, it's a much less noble product) anything apple-related like cider, unlike what most people might think (cider can be tricky but it'll never be as sweet as the states, look for my personal favorite - cidre fermier, then it depends on the producer).
posted by rhythm and booze at 7:28 PM on July 12, 2023 [12 favorites]
From my militantly Breton husband (with some edits from me):
Normandy Places : Étretat which is in Haute-Normandie. Beautiful cliffs and views.
Brittany places : As you mentioned: St-Malo, Cancale, Mt Saint-Michel, (which is in Brittany according to Brittany people and in Normandy according to idiots), Golfe du Morbihan (South Brittany), Chateaux des ducs de Bretagne (Nantes & Nantes area), Pont de l'Iroise (finistere), Pointe de Crozon (Finistere), the "edge of the world" (Finistere), Presqu'ile de Quiberon - cote sauvage, Carnac monoliths (the city of Carnac is very touristy, avoid it). If you want a restaurant recommendation for Saint Malo, Effet Mer (pun intended) is delicious, seasonal, and intimate.
Brittany food : Anywhere you'll go you will find crepes and galettes, or in some area they'll call everything crêpes (and have a different recipe, they both have their interest). Galettes are meant to be simple and the traditional galette complet can be made without an egg on top. In the Golfe du Morbihan, the best galettes are at Le Galichan, in Sarzeau. For "original", non-traditional galettes, Le Loup Le Renard et La Galette is quite good. If you find a cart, a van that sells them, chances are it will be good (if not in a touristy area, try local markets). For authentic, rustic food in Finistère (west Brittany), Auberge Le Puits de Jeanne in Plouegat-Moysan is a must-see. In central Brittany, Crêperie Des Forges in Cadoret provides an intimate, family style experience and really good crepes. We are famous for our salted butter caramel, a must-try. Also famous for our butter au sel de Guerande, try the one with little crystals. Kouign-amann is our national pastry, it can be tricky to find really good ones but if you have nothing to compare it to, you'll be in for a treat anyway. Check out Le Tandem in Vannes for a very good example of Kouign-amann accompanied with lait ribot (Breton buttermillk) sorbet and other delicious food.
Normandy is better for cream and cheeses, Brittany is better for butter, caramel, andouilles (a traditional "sausage", look for Andouillette de Guemené NOT FAÇON GUEMENÉ, it has to be from there. Forget about Andouille de Vire in Normandy, it's a much less noble product) anything apple-related like cider, unlike what most people might think (cider can be tricky but it'll never be as sweet as the states, look for my personal favorite - cidre fermier, then it depends on the producer).
posted by rhythm and booze at 7:28 PM on July 12, 2023 [12 favorites]
My husband also says - traditional galettes (buckwheat crepes) are often made without egg, which may help.
posted by rhythm and booze at 7:49 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by rhythm and booze at 7:49 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
We have travelled in Brittany twice to visit friends and loved it. We had a home base in a small town in Finistère (gorgeous) and did day trips to the small towns nearby and some bigger places a little further away (Quimper, Brest). The biggest city close to us was Morlaix. It would have been very difficult to get to all the small towns we wanted to see (very worth it) without renting a car.
Seconding Kouign-Amann which is incredibly delicious. It’s traditionally egg-free, basically butter held together with sugar and a bit of flour so if you like butter it’s perfect. (Apparently sometimes the tops are brushed with eggs instead of the usual buttermilk? so maybe double check before you buy.)
Also seconding the standing stones at Carnac, cider, galettes and crepes.
If you go to Roscoff and you like mussels, La Moule Au Pot is excellent.
I highly recommend visiting the 13th century Chapel of Kermaria an Iskuit (in Plouha). It features a stunning Danse Macabre fresco among other things. As a side note, whenever we visited chapels we would look for the ankou, the figure of death that is common throughout Celtic nations. They were everywhere in Brittany!
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 8:01 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
Seconding Kouign-Amann which is incredibly delicious. It’s traditionally egg-free, basically butter held together with sugar and a bit of flour so if you like butter it’s perfect. (Apparently sometimes the tops are brushed with eggs instead of the usual buttermilk? so maybe double check before you buy.)
Also seconding the standing stones at Carnac, cider, galettes and crepes.
If you go to Roscoff and you like mussels, La Moule Au Pot is excellent.
I highly recommend visiting the 13th century Chapel of Kermaria an Iskuit (in Plouha). It features a stunning Danse Macabre fresco among other things. As a side note, whenever we visited chapels we would look for the ankou, the figure of death that is common throughout Celtic nations. They were everywhere in Brittany!
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 8:01 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
We stayed in - and liked Honfleur - old port frequented by many artists. Nearby Deauville has an interesting beach. The "Calvados Experience" at Pont-l’Évêque is very much aimed at tourists - but was also a great way of finding out about the drink. It is quite important to know that if you ask simply for a calvados in a bar or restaurant, you will get the cheap stuff - try some of the higher end products too. We had a friend who had asked us to visit the Basilica de Sainte-Thérèse - which is France's #2 pilgrimage site - not normally our thing but would also recommend. All those sites are in quite a small part of Normandy and would not have been possible to get to without a car in any reasonable time.
posted by rongorongo at 10:40 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by rongorongo at 10:40 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]
I was going to recommend the standing stones at Carnac, particularly if you haven't seen any other neolithic sites. The Golfe de Morbihan more generally is very nice and may have warmer weather than the north coast. You might like the pink granite coast near Lannion, but only if you have a car.
posted by plonkee at 5:44 AM on July 13, 2023 [2 favorites]
posted by plonkee at 5:44 AM on July 13, 2023 [2 favorites]
I’m back to recommend the picturesque and charming town of Fougères, which has a gorgeous medieval castle.
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 6:08 PM on July 14, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 6:08 PM on July 14, 2023 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Thank you for all of the answers and the hive response that we really do need a car.
I love all of the specific suggestions as well! A lot of these have not come up in our preliminary research. You are all the best!
posted by toddforbid at 7:19 PM on July 19, 2023 [1 favorite]
I love all of the specific suggestions as well! A lot of these have not come up in our preliminary research. You are all the best!
posted by toddforbid at 7:19 PM on July 19, 2023 [1 favorite]
If you go to Roscoff and you like mussels, La Moule Au Pot is excellent.
I can back this up - very good eating.
posted by biffa at 1:31 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
I can back this up - very good eating.
posted by biffa at 1:31 AM on July 26, 2023 [1 favorite]
Back again because I remembered another amazing restaurant we went to in Brittany: L’Abbesses in the hotel Au Temps des Voiles. It’s in Le Diben, an area of Plougasnou. Honestly one of the best seafood meals I have had.
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 1:13 PM on July 26, 2023
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 1:13 PM on July 26, 2023
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posted by biffa at 4:21 PM on July 12, 2023 [1 favorite]