Where to spend a few days in Greece that's not Athens
April 19, 2023 10:02 AM Subscribe
We have about ten days in Greece in early June. The first half or so of that will be in Athens but I keep seeing people say that Athens isn't exactly a place that it's fun to just exist in for a little while and that the beaches aren't great. So where can we go that's close/cheap to get to that's more idyllic?
A prime candidate seems to be any of the nearby islands. But which of them have good markets/food/fun things to do or see other than the beach?
I've seen mention of Thessaloniki and a train to there. Is there anything in Delphi other than ruins (ruins are cool too)?
I am being internationally vague about "fun stuff" but art, food, especially interesting ancient sites, weird stuff, secondhand stores, and street markets all qualify.
A prime candidate seems to be any of the nearby islands. But which of them have good markets/food/fun things to do or see other than the beach?
I've seen mention of Thessaloniki and a train to there. Is there anything in Delphi other than ruins (ruins are cool too)?
I am being internationally vague about "fun stuff" but art, food, especially interesting ancient sites, weird stuff, secondhand stores, and street markets all qualify.
Meteora. Zero beach action, but shitloads of funky history and remarkable landscapes.
posted by aramaic at 10:30 AM on April 19, 2023
posted by aramaic at 10:30 AM on April 19, 2023
Nafphlio which is not far from Athens is quite lovely, if you're not wanting to travel far. Also near Athens is Brauron, with an site dedicated to Artemis and a fairly gorgeous beach nearby.
Delphi is a spectacular place to stay in and gorgeous aside from the ruins. Definitely worth it for the specialness of the place in my experience especially if you get a summer storm.
posted by lesbiassparrow at 11:15 AM on April 19, 2023 [2 favorites]
Delphi is a spectacular place to stay in and gorgeous aside from the ruins. Definitely worth it for the specialness of the place in my experience especially if you get a summer storm.
posted by lesbiassparrow at 11:15 AM on April 19, 2023 [2 favorites]
I asked a question about Greece last year! I listed my final itinerary there. The best stop by far was Naxos - on a high-speed ferry it's about 3.5-4 hours from Athens. Great architecture, ruins, food, beaches, hiking, villages, perfect Greek island experience.
posted by rabbitbookworm at 11:29 AM on April 19, 2023 [6 favorites]
posted by rabbitbookworm at 11:29 AM on April 19, 2023 [6 favorites]
I went to Greece in 2021 and my itinerary was Athens > Santorini > Naxos. I will second Naxos! Much chiller vibe and less expensive than Santorini, though I don't know if you'd consider the ferry ride close enough for your purposes. Also, let me put in a rec for staying at Naxos Cave Suites. Lovely, charming property that's just a quick walk away from its own beach, and the breakfast the hosts provide is generous and delicious. The hosts are really kind and helpful too.
posted by yasaman at 12:12 PM on April 19, 2023 [2 favorites]
posted by yasaman at 12:12 PM on April 19, 2023 [2 favorites]
Where is the second half? Because the obvious thing to do is get out of Athens on the next available ferry going anywhere but that's not useful information to have in terms of specifically meeting up with the second half of your trip.
posted by DarlingBri at 12:57 PM on April 19, 2023
posted by DarlingBri at 12:57 PM on April 19, 2023
One of my family mottos is “Never leave the airport in Athens.”
Naxos is my favorite choice for relaxation, but Crete probably has more of what you’re looking for, and Rodos even more than that.
posted by Tell Me No Lies at 12:58 PM on April 19, 2023 [3 favorites]
Naxos is my favorite choice for relaxation, but Crete probably has more of what you’re looking for, and Rodos even more than that.
posted by Tell Me No Lies at 12:58 PM on April 19, 2023 [3 favorites]
Crete —> Santorini —> Naxos is a nice trip, particularly if you take a ferry from Crete to Santorini. If ever an island needed to be approached on the water Santorini is it.
posted by Tell Me No Lies at 1:01 PM on April 19, 2023 [1 favorite]
posted by Tell Me No Lies at 1:01 PM on April 19, 2023 [1 favorite]
None of the beaches around Athens are to write home about. If you really want great beaches, you need to drive a bit or get on a boat. Thessaloniki is great, but again, you'll need to drive an hour for a really nice beach. It's a big city.
With 5 days to spare, choose one, max 2 islands or hop in the car.
The good thing is that early June is not so crowded, especially in the Peloponnese, which would be my vote.
Nafplion is pretty and historic, but again, the beaches in town are not great. Better beaches start at Tolo, 10 min drive to the E. If you don't mind depending on the car, the Mani region (say, centered in Areopoli) is really beautiful and different, and there are different kinds of beaches around. Koroni is like an island port with market, restaurants, and a great beach just behind the town. It's a bit touristic but people live there and isn't nearly as touristic as most islands. See also of Kardamyli, Gytheio, Pylos (no beach in town), or Methoni appeal to you.
Otherwise, yes nearby islands. As with the mainland, it is often the case that the interesting 'real' towns are not at the beach. At the beach are beach resorts. So you might have to depend on buses (which can be trying in the heat) or a car. But depends.
Hydra and Spetses are upscale, not known for their beaches, pretty, and near athens. Hydra is quieter, with no motors. Nice walks on Hydra.
Serifos and Sifnos are similar to one another, both on the quiet side, whitewashed cycladic villages, beaches, they have become fancier recently. Sifnos is bigger. Both have beaches in/near the port town. Good food, hiking in Sifnos. Not much else, 2-3 hours from Ath.
Naxos, already suggested, is great because it has a big port town, long beaches, some ruins, inland villages, mountain, etc. There are fancy things but it is more relaxed and there are working towns. Really great food in some towns. But you should have a car. I like the beaches in the southwest.
If you want to combine beach and culture, then choose Syros (noting that some boats might leave from Lavrio or Rafina rather than Piraeus). It has a stunning capital, with an old cycladic town on top. And plenty of beaches. In early June should not be so crowded, but since many people live on the island, it won't be like Serifos. Still, I think there are a couple of more empty beaches on the W coast.
Andros would be the next choice for culture (again, check if boats are from Rafina or Lavrio). The main town of Andros is interesting. I once saw a Chagall exhibit there, has beaches, but beware of wind on the east side. It is a bit of a drive to the more friendly west coast. It is a wealthy island, maybe you are looking for something more rustic.
Tinos has beautiful small villages, windy roads,interesting geography, hiking, and a big port town. But maybe too boring for you.
Aegina seems too close to Athens for me, but I have not been in 20 years. Angistri is just beach.
I would not bother with Paros, Santorini, Mykonos. And no reason to go as far as Crete for 5 days, it is too big, and there are great places that are closer.
A final suggestion, with a car, is to explore the Pilion peninsula, about 4 hours drive, but should be stunning this time of year. Real small towns/villages in the mountains, very green, calm and wild beaches on the W and E sides respectively, not as much foreign tourism.
PM me with questions or for more suggestions.
posted by melamakarona at 1:37 PM on April 19, 2023 [6 favorites]
With 5 days to spare, choose one, max 2 islands or hop in the car.
The good thing is that early June is not so crowded, especially in the Peloponnese, which would be my vote.
Nafplion is pretty and historic, but again, the beaches in town are not great. Better beaches start at Tolo, 10 min drive to the E. If you don't mind depending on the car, the Mani region (say, centered in Areopoli) is really beautiful and different, and there are different kinds of beaches around. Koroni is like an island port with market, restaurants, and a great beach just behind the town. It's a bit touristic but people live there and isn't nearly as touristic as most islands. See also of Kardamyli, Gytheio, Pylos (no beach in town), or Methoni appeal to you.
Otherwise, yes nearby islands. As with the mainland, it is often the case that the interesting 'real' towns are not at the beach. At the beach are beach resorts. So you might have to depend on buses (which can be trying in the heat) or a car. But depends.
Hydra and Spetses are upscale, not known for their beaches, pretty, and near athens. Hydra is quieter, with no motors. Nice walks on Hydra.
Serifos and Sifnos are similar to one another, both on the quiet side, whitewashed cycladic villages, beaches, they have become fancier recently. Sifnos is bigger. Both have beaches in/near the port town. Good food, hiking in Sifnos. Not much else, 2-3 hours from Ath.
Naxos, already suggested, is great because it has a big port town, long beaches, some ruins, inland villages, mountain, etc. There are fancy things but it is more relaxed and there are working towns. Really great food in some towns. But you should have a car. I like the beaches in the southwest.
If you want to combine beach and culture, then choose Syros (noting that some boats might leave from Lavrio or Rafina rather than Piraeus). It has a stunning capital, with an old cycladic town on top. And plenty of beaches. In early June should not be so crowded, but since many people live on the island, it won't be like Serifos. Still, I think there are a couple of more empty beaches on the W coast.
Andros would be the next choice for culture (again, check if boats are from Rafina or Lavrio). The main town of Andros is interesting. I once saw a Chagall exhibit there, has beaches, but beware of wind on the east side. It is a bit of a drive to the more friendly west coast. It is a wealthy island, maybe you are looking for something more rustic.
Tinos has beautiful small villages, windy roads,interesting geography, hiking, and a big port town. But maybe too boring for you.
Aegina seems too close to Athens for me, but I have not been in 20 years. Angistri is just beach.
I would not bother with Paros, Santorini, Mykonos. And no reason to go as far as Crete for 5 days, it is too big, and there are great places that are closer.
A final suggestion, with a car, is to explore the Pilion peninsula, about 4 hours drive, but should be stunning this time of year. Real small towns/villages in the mountains, very green, calm and wild beaches on the W and E sides respectively, not as much foreign tourism.
PM me with questions or for more suggestions.
posted by melamakarona at 1:37 PM on April 19, 2023 [6 favorites]
I love seeing all the recs for Naxos! Our itinerary in 2019 was 2 nights Santorini > 6 nights Naxos > 1 night in Athens. Naxos for the win! We rented a place with 180 degree sea views about a 15 minute walk to Agios Prokopios beach. Check out the Bourdain episode called "Greek Islands" which is all Naxos, because he liked it so much he skipped the rest of the islands. The place is magical. We are finally returning to Naxos this year.
But first, we're spending a week in Corfu--a completely different type of Greek island. Naxos is typical Cyclades, with a main town (pop about 5000) featuring an old fortress/castle, great restaurants and shops, and some history--with the whitewashed buildings and blue roofs and scrubby land with low olive trees. Seems to me that most of Naxos's visitors are other Greeks, but you also see continental Europeans. It's a family atmosphere, not a partying island like Mykonos. Corfu has a much larger main city (pop about 40k) with Venetian architecture and a much more booming tourist trade, especially Britons. More museums, more tourist activities, more resorts, more year-round residents.
Corfu is where we're going to explore, and think about maybe long-term partial-year living. Naxos is where we're going to relax and do nothing.
Traveling around Greece:
Ferryhopper is a site where you can book any ferry. Ferries from Athens to Naxos are 3-5.5 hours, depending on the speed of the ferry you choose. NB: Ferries from Naxos to Piraeus port in Athens are most common (as opposed to Naxos to the port near the airport which I can't remember the name of), but then you still have to spend like 1.5hrs on the subway to the airport. I recommend the short 45 minute flight between ATH and Naxos instead. The price isn't that different especially when you account for spending a whole day on the ferry + subway.
PS I'm never going back to Santorini. Two nights was enough. Absolutely overrun by Instagram influencers.
posted by ImproviseOrDie at 3:15 PM on April 19, 2023 [1 favorite]
But first, we're spending a week in Corfu--a completely different type of Greek island. Naxos is typical Cyclades, with a main town (pop about 5000) featuring an old fortress/castle, great restaurants and shops, and some history--with the whitewashed buildings and blue roofs and scrubby land with low olive trees. Seems to me that most of Naxos's visitors are other Greeks, but you also see continental Europeans. It's a family atmosphere, not a partying island like Mykonos. Corfu has a much larger main city (pop about 40k) with Venetian architecture and a much more booming tourist trade, especially Britons. More museums, more tourist activities, more resorts, more year-round residents.
Corfu is where we're going to explore, and think about maybe long-term partial-year living. Naxos is where we're going to relax and do nothing.
Traveling around Greece:
Ferryhopper is a site where you can book any ferry. Ferries from Athens to Naxos are 3-5.5 hours, depending on the speed of the ferry you choose. NB: Ferries from Naxos to Piraeus port in Athens are most common (as opposed to Naxos to the port near the airport which I can't remember the name of), but then you still have to spend like 1.5hrs on the subway to the airport. I recommend the short 45 minute flight between ATH and Naxos instead. The price isn't that different especially when you account for spending a whole day on the ferry + subway.
PS I'm never going back to Santorini. Two nights was enough. Absolutely overrun by Instagram influencers.
posted by ImproviseOrDie at 3:15 PM on April 19, 2023 [1 favorite]
I like Athens (All the museums! The Acropolis! Monastiraki! Plaka!), and I like staying in Glyfada, which is beachy; but more like, marina beachy than hang out on a beach beachy.
But I'm seconding the recommendation above for going out to the Peloponnese (Nafplio is great) and specifically for Tolo, which is an adorable beach town. It's convenient if you want to go see Epidaurus and Mycenae (and you should), plus the town itself is great: small, cute, beach.
posted by lysimache at 3:45 PM on April 19, 2023 [5 favorites]
But I'm seconding the recommendation above for going out to the Peloponnese (Nafplio is great) and specifically for Tolo, which is an adorable beach town. It's convenient if you want to go see Epidaurus and Mycenae (and you should), plus the town itself is great: small, cute, beach.
posted by lysimache at 3:45 PM on April 19, 2023 [5 favorites]
There is indeed not much in Delphi besides the ruins! Delphi and Arachova are ski resort towns and it's very quiet in the summer.
I strongly, strongly, strongly recommend the Meteora. Kalambaka is a charming enough town, and visiting the Meteora monasteries was one of the few truly unique experiences I've ever had in my life. It's like nothing else in the world.
All that said, I love Athens but be prepared, it's blisteringly hot in June.
posted by capricorn at 7:50 PM on April 19, 2023
I strongly, strongly, strongly recommend the Meteora. Kalambaka is a charming enough town, and visiting the Meteora monasteries was one of the few truly unique experiences I've ever had in my life. It's like nothing else in the world.
All that said, I love Athens but be prepared, it's blisteringly hot in June.
posted by capricorn at 7:50 PM on April 19, 2023
Another vote for Nafplio: it's admittedly slightly touristy in the old town (lots of Germans when I was there) but that same old town has a lot of comfy places to eat and stay, and much of it is pedestrianized and very pleasant. And like others have said, there are a million interesting sites within a day's drive, it's a great base for exploration.
When I went to Delphi, I stayed in Arachova just down the road, which was a perfectly charming place to spend a day.
posted by gimonca at 6:20 AM on April 20, 2023
When I went to Delphi, I stayed in Arachova just down the road, which was a perfectly charming place to spend a day.
posted by gimonca at 6:20 AM on April 20, 2023
We did a trip a few years back where we stayed in Naxos, did a little day-trip island hopping, went to Athens for two days, and then stayed in Nafplio, visiting some ancient sites and the beach in nearby Tolo. The last part in Nafplio was by far my favorite!
posted by omnie at 6:29 AM on April 20, 2023
posted by omnie at 6:29 AM on April 20, 2023
I was in the Athens area in 2019 (perhaps 18? what is time). One of the places we spent a day was Lake Vouliagmeni, which is about 45 minutes south of Athens.
It was really lovely. It is a touristy place and does get pretty full but the lake is full of tiny dead-skin eating fish so you go and you sit and they nibble on you and tickle you and when you're done your cuticles are amazing.
posted by cCranium at 8:53 AM on April 21, 2023 [1 favorite]
It was really lovely. It is a touristy place and does get pretty full but the lake is full of tiny dead-skin eating fish so you go and you sit and they nibble on you and tickle you and when you're done your cuticles are amazing.
posted by cCranium at 8:53 AM on April 21, 2023 [1 favorite]
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by essexjan at 10:24 AM on April 19, 2023 [1 favorite]