Writing research: What would I see from a rooftop in São Paulo?

November 30, 2022 12:53 AM

I'm about to write a brief scene that's set on a flat rooftop in São Paulo. What things might my character notice that would make the setting seem specific to that city?

The setting is a flat rooftop of an animator's studio, probably a building that's about 5 stories high. I imagine somewhere not too suburban.

The year is 2022, it's November, late afternoon. I gather that it would be humid and fairly warm. And that the air is likely quite polluted.

What would she smell, and hear? What birds or insects might she notice?

posted by Zumbador to Society & Culture (8 answers total)

A few observations based on trips many years ago...

São Paulo is enormous (22 million people in the metro area), but very flat-- unlike Rio which is built amid coastal mountains. What you'll see from a building is-- more buildings, extending as far as you can see. Even the downtown area sprawls. Almost every building is modern (but not usually very pretty); you're not going to see many colonial-era buildings, especially in a residential area.

Unlike the US, the poor areas, the favelas, are on the outskirts of the city: from the city proper you wouldn't see them (again unlike Rio). (And an animator would not live in a favela.)

Don't overdo the warmth: the city is pretty pleasant, around 20°C all year round. (Rio is hot in the summer!)

There are a lot of picturesque things in Brazil, and they're mostly not in São Paulo... if your character isn't a native Paulista what she might notice most is the absence of the things that make Rio, or Bahia, or the Amazon, or small towns, distinctive.
posted by zompist at 4:28 AM on November 30, 2022 [2 favorites]

From being a frequent visitor several years ago. Seconding the buildings. Lots of mostly-similar sized buildings, nearly as far as she can see in every direction. Some newer, mostly older, some a bit crumbling. Many with balconies with plants or clothes out on them. If she can see a major highway, she might see lots of traffic in the late afternoon especially if it's on a weekday. If the traffic is at a near standstill she might see people walking between the cars selling bottles of water or snacks.
posted by true at 5:36 AM on November 30, 2022 [1 favorite]

There are also things she will not see.
posted by bluefrog at 7:55 AM on November 30, 2022 [4 favorites]

I kind of disagree with the posters above. While you will not see favelas if you are in an artist's studio, I was surprised by the mix of structures when I was there. From the rooftop of the building I stayed in, I could see a small village of run-down shacks, a nice park, luxury housing, hotels, and office buildings. Compared with the more zoned cities I have been in, it was hard to see a common thread. Obviously, there were areas that more resembled other global great cities. The very center of the city with museums and a business district, quaint traditional neighborhoods, rich gated suburbs. And there were vast slums. But what was most surprising to me was how those were all interwoven in some places, and how that mash-up was reflected in the people I met.

But I agree about the traffic situation. That is insane.
posted by mumimor at 8:21 AM on November 30, 2022 [1 favorite]

I was there for a week this summer and it is definitely an urban city, lots of tall buildings and dense traffic. A unique feature of the traffic was the high number of motorbikes. They are constantly zipping in between lanes and weaving between cars, so that could be a distinctive sound perhaps? For the sights, I also noticed that many buildings, both business and residential, have high, heavy-duty security gates and fences. I didn't particularly notice any air pollution, but I live near Los Angeles, so perhaps I'm just accustomed to it!

If you have Netflix, you might want to check out Queer Eye: Brazil. It was filmed in Sao Paulo last year and the have lots of establishing shots of the city for reference. (Also, it is a very enjoyable watch!)
posted by platinum at 12:55 PM on November 30, 2022 [1 favorite]

A bit off-the-wall, but have you tried using Google Street View for some actual animation studio addresses in São Paulo?

Some addresses to try:

Mono Animation
R. Francisco Iasi, 146 - Pinheiros, São Paulo - SP, 05407-050, Brazil

Zombie Studio
R. Purpurina, 219 - Sumarezinho, São Paulo - SP, 05435-030, Brazil

(My own not too recent memory of São Paulo are the tall buildings with a lot of them having helipads, and the insane traffic.)
posted by needled at 1:00 PM on November 30, 2022 [2 favorites]

There are some distinctive graffiti-based murals--I'd have them see something by Os Gemeos, or the constantly changing graffiti art of the beco do batman.

The SESC pompeia has interesting architecture. If you want something ominous, there's the brutalist darth vader-y FIESP building on the avenida paulista.

I don't know if this tradition continues (I haven't been to SP since the pandemic), but the tradition of closing a raised freeway on Sundays for pedestrians to use creates a distinctive scene, like these videos by Thiago Pethit.
posted by umbú at 1:24 PM on November 30, 2022 [2 favorites]

Seconding the motorbikes, I almost mentioned that as well in my initial response. If you are going to put that in I would note that helmet use is compulsory and universal. I never saw a single rider without one in the city, regardless of the age or condition of the vehicle they were riding.
posted by true at 1:50 PM on November 30, 2022 [1 favorite]