What type of bike do I want?
July 16, 2022 8:53 PM Subscribe
I’m looking for recommendations on what types/classes of bike I should look at when I go to stores (and what I can rule out).
My main bike is a 21-speed aluminum Marin mountain bike with a front shock, and typical wide, knobby mountain bike tires. It’s pushing 20 years old, and I think it needs a new crankset (which has already been replaced once), and with many thousands of miles on it, the whole bike is a bit creaky. It’s also a bit heavy. I know I could put slightly narrower and smoother tires on it, but I’ve tried smoother tries, and they didn’t make much of a difference in terms of friction, and I missed having the grip of the knobbier tires.
I also have a Giant road bike with typical skinny road bike rims/tires. I bought this bike so I could more easily do longer rides, but I never really clicked with it. Aside from everything just feeling too narrow for my build, the skinny tires make me nervous. They’re fine on bike paths, but on roads with potholes, manhole covers, and various other bumps and debris (which is pretty much everywhere I’d ride), they’re not the best choice. I could probably get slightly wider tires for the rims, but I doubt it would make much of a difference.
So, I’ve thought about getting one bike that’s somewhere in between (although probably leaning more towards mountain bike than road bike). There are currently several types of bikes (hybrid, urban/commuter, cyclocross, gravel, etc.) which all seem like they might fit the bill, but it’s really hard to differentiate one type from another. So, I’m hoping for some help narrowing things down. Ideally, the bike would be under $1000, so I’m guessing that cyclocross bikes are ruled out, as those seem to be inherently more expensive (but I don’t know, so that why I’m asking). I’m mainly interested in type, but if there’s a specific model you’d recommend, that’s cool.
Things I care about:
• Front shock
• Tires/rims that are wide enough to cover a variety of terrain but not so wide that longer rides (say 20+ miles) becomes a chore
• Being able to ride on dirt trails and occasionally gravel (both coarse gravel like you might run across in construction areas and the finer stuff that’s occasionally used for bike paths)
• Multiple riding positions: I generally prefer a more aggressive position, but I like to ride upright sometimes. Both my current bikes have handlebars that allow this. I definitely don’t want a bike where the only option is upright.
Things I don’t care about:
• Full suspension
• Doing actual “mountain biking”. I’ve only done actual mountain biking about a dozen times, and not in at least 10 years. I’m more risk-averse than I was back then, so the likelihood of me ever riding down a mountain is very slim.
• Super light weight. I’d like something lighter than what I’ve got, but my road bike almost seems too light (and it's not even titanium or any other super lightweight metal)
Thanks!
My main bike is a 21-speed aluminum Marin mountain bike with a front shock, and typical wide, knobby mountain bike tires. It’s pushing 20 years old, and I think it needs a new crankset (which has already been replaced once), and with many thousands of miles on it, the whole bike is a bit creaky. It’s also a bit heavy. I know I could put slightly narrower and smoother tires on it, but I’ve tried smoother tries, and they didn’t make much of a difference in terms of friction, and I missed having the grip of the knobbier tires.
I also have a Giant road bike with typical skinny road bike rims/tires. I bought this bike so I could more easily do longer rides, but I never really clicked with it. Aside from everything just feeling too narrow for my build, the skinny tires make me nervous. They’re fine on bike paths, but on roads with potholes, manhole covers, and various other bumps and debris (which is pretty much everywhere I’d ride), they’re not the best choice. I could probably get slightly wider tires for the rims, but I doubt it would make much of a difference.
So, I’ve thought about getting one bike that’s somewhere in between (although probably leaning more towards mountain bike than road bike). There are currently several types of bikes (hybrid, urban/commuter, cyclocross, gravel, etc.) which all seem like they might fit the bill, but it’s really hard to differentiate one type from another. So, I’m hoping for some help narrowing things down. Ideally, the bike would be under $1000, so I’m guessing that cyclocross bikes are ruled out, as those seem to be inherently more expensive (but I don’t know, so that why I’m asking). I’m mainly interested in type, but if there’s a specific model you’d recommend, that’s cool.
Things I care about:
• Front shock
• Tires/rims that are wide enough to cover a variety of terrain but not so wide that longer rides (say 20+ miles) becomes a chore
• Being able to ride on dirt trails and occasionally gravel (both coarse gravel like you might run across in construction areas and the finer stuff that’s occasionally used for bike paths)
• Multiple riding positions: I generally prefer a more aggressive position, but I like to ride upright sometimes. Both my current bikes have handlebars that allow this. I definitely don’t want a bike where the only option is upright.
Things I don’t care about:
• Full suspension
• Doing actual “mountain biking”. I’ve only done actual mountain biking about a dozen times, and not in at least 10 years. I’m more risk-averse than I was back then, so the likelihood of me ever riding down a mountain is very slim.
• Super light weight. I’d like something lighter than what I’ve got, but my road bike almost seems too light (and it's not even titanium or any other super lightweight metal)
Thanks!
Best answer: Wider tires are great for many reasons, even for longer rides. Here’s an article about why. They will soak up way less energy than a front shock.
If I were you I’d be looking for a steel frame/fork, with clearance for at least 700c x 45mm tires , and wide flared drop bars (or add them later) with a riser stem. Disc brakes if you can find them. Used steel bikes are often good deals.
For example the Surly Cross Check ticks these boxes (not disc brakes), it’s a great bike and is under $1000 new (stock tires are only 32mm but you can fit 45mm, depending on rim width, though officially the limit is 42mm).
Work with the bike shop you are buying from to figure out your frame size too unless you are already pretty sure.
posted by soy bean at 4:48 AM on July 17, 2022 [1 favorite]
If I were you I’d be looking for a steel frame/fork, with clearance for at least 700c x 45mm tires , and wide flared drop bars (or add them later) with a riser stem. Disc brakes if you can find them. Used steel bikes are often good deals.
For example the Surly Cross Check ticks these boxes (not disc brakes), it’s a great bike and is under $1000 new (stock tires are only 32mm but you can fit 45mm, depending on rim width, though officially the limit is 42mm).
Work with the bike shop you are buying from to figure out your frame size too unless you are already pretty sure.
posted by soy bean at 4:48 AM on July 17, 2022 [1 favorite]
I agree you don't need a front shock (except maybe psychologically) and I think you'd be pleasantly surprised with a nice Dutch/city/commuter bike. I take mine on gravel and dirt, hop over curbs etc. Worth a test ride at least. I have bar extenders on mine that let me go from laid back/upright to semi-aggressive posture (but nowhere near drops/roadbike). They all will have tires that are nicely plump, not skinny or fat/knobby.
Check out Linus or Elektra, maybe Detroit brands, they all have semi-sporty commuters.
posted by SaltySalticid at 5:32 AM on July 17, 2022
Check out Linus or Elektra, maybe Detroit brands, they all have semi-sporty commuters.
posted by SaltySalticid at 5:32 AM on July 17, 2022
There’s a lot of feature overlap between hybrid, cyclocross, gravel, urban, etc. because they’re all just marketing terms without strict definitions, and their meanings change over time. I think gravel and adventure are the most likely categories for you. My sense is that hybrid has come to imply heavier, lower-end bikes aimed at casual social riders, and cyclocross is usually more competition-oriented, i.e. very lightweight with aggressive geometry that might be uncomfortable on longer rides and less stable, with less tire clearance.
There are plenty of tire models that have relatively smooth tread down the middle to reduce rolling resistance, with small knobs at the edges for cornering on looser surfaces. My bike has smooth 650bx47mm tires that do well on gravel, pavement, and dry dirt, but are worthless in mud or wet grass. I might try something with a bit more bite when it’s time to replace them.
posted by jon1270 at 5:51 AM on July 17, 2022
There are plenty of tire models that have relatively smooth tread down the middle to reduce rolling resistance, with small knobs at the edges for cornering on looser surfaces. My bike has smooth 650bx47mm tires that do well on gravel, pavement, and dry dirt, but are worthless in mud or wet grass. I might try something with a bit more bite when it’s time to replace them.
posted by jon1270 at 5:51 AM on July 17, 2022
An endurance road bike or a gravel bike would be a great choice. Most road bikes are being designed to accommodate wider tires, and the whole “skinnier is better” concept is out of fashion. Drop bars are your best choice for a range of hand positions. I’d look at bikes that can take a minimum of 30mm tires.
For your price point you’ll be looking at an aluminum or steel frame, with mechanical disc brakes.
Nthing that a suspension fork is going to be too much of a weight penalty with no real benefit.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 5:59 AM on July 17, 2022
For your price point you’ll be looking at an aluminum or steel frame, with mechanical disc brakes.
Nthing that a suspension fork is going to be too much of a weight penalty with no real benefit.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 5:59 AM on July 17, 2022
Is there a store near you that you could test ride some bicycles? I think the first thing is to decide if you want flat bars or drop bars, to help narrow down your choices. Cyclocross bikes often have a high bottom bracket, which makes the experience riding the bike different. At the price point you are looking at, I don't think it's worth it to get a front shock, I would get bigger tires for more comfort.
I recently got a new errand bike with 650b rims and 2inch wide tires I've been surprised at how comfortable these wheels have made riding around the pothole filled streets in my neighbourhood. The wide tires are also good for riding over streetcar tracks.
In terms of the class of bikes you are interested in, I have the specialized diverge, which is a gravel bike. I am very happy with it. Some of the higher end diverges have a very small shock build into the head tube which makes the bike comfortable without any significant performance impacts. I also test road the trek checkpoint. The year I bought my gravel bike, the diverge and the checkpoint had very similar geometries on paper, but a different feel when riding the bike.
I find my gravel bike to be suitable for all the road conditions you want to ride on.
posted by ice-cream forever at 6:27 AM on July 17, 2022
I recently got a new errand bike with 650b rims and 2inch wide tires I've been surprised at how comfortable these wheels have made riding around the pothole filled streets in my neighbourhood. The wide tires are also good for riding over streetcar tracks.
In terms of the class of bikes you are interested in, I have the specialized diverge, which is a gravel bike. I am very happy with it. Some of the higher end diverges have a very small shock build into the head tube which makes the bike comfortable without any significant performance impacts. I also test road the trek checkpoint. The year I bought my gravel bike, the diverge and the checkpoint had very similar geometries on paper, but a different feel when riding the bike.
I find my gravel bike to be suitable for all the road conditions you want to ride on.
posted by ice-cream forever at 6:27 AM on July 17, 2022
The smartest biking decision I ever made was to ditch the gears and suspension. I ride a single-speed (not fixed), steel Marinoni with track geometry, which allows me to make sharp turns and see over traffic. I live in Toronto which is neither very hilly nor very flat — it's somewhat in between.
Whenever people ask me for bike advice, my main suggestion is ditch the gears. They're a pain in the ass to deal with, weigh the bike down, and aren't really useful unless travelling extreme distances (I ride about 50KM a day).
The best advice anyone can give you is to try multiple bikes if you can. Head to a store and test drive 'til you find what works for you.
I also agree with everyone above: in the scenarios you describe, a front shock is not only useless, it does more harm than good.
posted by dobbs at 10:22 AM on July 17, 2022
Whenever people ask me for bike advice, my main suggestion is ditch the gears. They're a pain in the ass to deal with, weigh the bike down, and aren't really useful unless travelling extreme distances (I ride about 50KM a day).
The best advice anyone can give you is to try multiple bikes if you can. Head to a store and test drive 'til you find what works for you.
I also agree with everyone above: in the scenarios you describe, a front shock is not only useless, it does more harm than good.
posted by dobbs at 10:22 AM on July 17, 2022
Response by poster: Thanks for the tips! Soy bean: that article about tire widths was fantastic.
I'm definitely planning on shopping around and test driving. This thread was very useful in steering me towards and away some things to save time.
I was thinking of trying to trade in/sell both bikes to get down to one, but my mountain bike isn't worth much, so I may keep that for a bit and see how I do without a shock on the new bike.
posted by jonathanhughes at 1:48 PM on July 17, 2022
I'm definitely planning on shopping around and test driving. This thread was very useful in steering me towards and away some things to save time.
I was thinking of trying to trade in/sell both bikes to get down to one, but my mountain bike isn't worth much, so I may keep that for a bit and see how I do without a shock on the new bike.
posted by jonathanhughes at 1:48 PM on July 17, 2022
This thread is closed to new comments.
I’d see if there are any cyclocross bikes around $1000 in your local independent bike shop. Otherwise I’d say to look for a town/commuter bike if you’d reconsider the shock.
posted by bluedaisy at 10:34 PM on July 16, 2022 [2 favorites]