Where to stay / what not to miss in Rome?
August 8, 2021 9:14 AM Subscribe
I will be spending around four days in Rome in September before striking out to Puglia. I've never really had an abiding desire to go to Rome, but it makes sense for meeting up with travelers coming from the States and other logistical reasons. I have two main questions — where to stay and anything special to see — with details inside.
Where to stay? We are getting an Airbnb. In which neighborhood should we be looking? Convenient is nice, but we don't want to stay in the equivalent of Times Square in terms of tourist vs normal-person infrastructure and spending less is good, though we don't really have a hard budget.
What to see? Part of the reason I've never been dying to go to Rome is all the big stuff — ancient things, religious art from the Renaissance — is not that exciting to me. For context, when we went to the Prado, I enjoyed the Goyas and the Caravaggios, and the Bosch, but there were also so many old Marys I just wan't wild about. I do like modern art for loved the Prada in Milan. So I am thinking about hitting up mayyyyybe the Sistine Chapel and the Caravaggios in the Borghese and definitely the Op Art show at the National Gallery. But is there something cool and modern you'd recommend? Is there something ancient that you think we reallllly should go to even though it seems boring?
Thank you for your help.
Where to stay? We are getting an Airbnb. In which neighborhood should we be looking? Convenient is nice, but we don't want to stay in the equivalent of Times Square in terms of tourist vs normal-person infrastructure and spending less is good, though we don't really have a hard budget.
What to see? Part of the reason I've never been dying to go to Rome is all the big stuff — ancient things, religious art from the Renaissance — is not that exciting to me. For context, when we went to the Prado, I enjoyed the Goyas and the Caravaggios, and the Bosch, but there were also so many old Marys I just wan't wild about. I do like modern art for loved the Prada in Milan. So I am thinking about hitting up mayyyyybe the Sistine Chapel and the Caravaggios in the Borghese and definitely the Op Art show at the National Gallery. But is there something cool and modern you'd recommend? Is there something ancient that you think we reallllly should go to even though it seems boring?
Thank you for your help.
If you like Caravaggio, you’ll probably like Bernini sculptures, which makes Villa Borghese a very worthwhile spot. If the line for the Sistine chapel is still very very long, you might be happy just checking out St. Peter’s basilica itself, it’s still a somewhat functional church, and has some great baroque sculpture.
posted by skewed at 9:40 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
posted by skewed at 9:40 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
The foundations of St Peter’s Basilica, aka the Vatican’s necropolis, are amongst the most interesting places I’ve ever visited. Don’t be put off by the snooty text on the website - you just book tickets (in advance) and the tour guides are friendly and knowledgeable.
http://www.scavi.va/content/scavi/en.html
posted by JJZByBffqU at 9:50 AM on August 8, 2021 [3 favorites]
http://www.scavi.va/content/scavi/en.html
posted by JJZByBffqU at 9:50 AM on August 8, 2021 [3 favorites]
Rome's art is on a completely different scale than the Prado. Just so you know. It's like comparing the sun to a lightbulb.
This question is simply too broad. I will tell you that the Sistine Chapel is only viewable as part of a tour of the Vatican galleries, and unfortunately the way it is managed -- if they're still doing it the way they used to do it -- is pretty awful. Imagine shoulder to shoulder crowds, with amplified PA recordings sounding out every couple of minutes yelling at everyone to be quiet. As wonderful as the art there is, the atmosphere is such a bummer that I would recommend just about any other Roman chapel to enjoy. Luckily there are hundreds.
posted by fingersandtoes at 9:53 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
This question is simply too broad. I will tell you that the Sistine Chapel is only viewable as part of a tour of the Vatican galleries, and unfortunately the way it is managed -- if they're still doing it the way they used to do it -- is pretty awful. Imagine shoulder to shoulder crowds, with amplified PA recordings sounding out every couple of minutes yelling at everyone to be quiet. As wonderful as the art there is, the atmosphere is such a bummer that I would recommend just about any other Roman chapel to enjoy. Luckily there are hundreds.
posted by fingersandtoes at 9:53 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
Not an airbnb, I recommend Hotel Golden, near Villa Borghese, walking distance to the Spanish Steps. Very small, family run. Incredibly clean, reasonably priced, breakfast included, very accommodating.
Also suggest a walking food tour in the Jewish Ghetto.
posted by jennstra at 9:57 AM on August 8, 2021 [4 favorites]
Also suggest a walking food tour in the Jewish Ghetto.
posted by jennstra at 9:57 AM on August 8, 2021 [4 favorites]
Response by poster: This question is simply too broad.
Let me be a little clearer: Is there good modern art or weird things to see in Rome that no one talks about because they are all on about the obvious?
I wanted to leave room for "no the obvious is great!" but I am already regretting it. Please believe me that looking at another painting or sculpture of Mary is going to make me die on the spot. I understand why people like it but I personally just am cold. I don't care about churches, crypts, or early Christians.
posted by dame at 9:58 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
Let me be a little clearer: Is there good modern art or weird things to see in Rome that no one talks about because they are all on about the obvious?
I wanted to leave room for "no the obvious is great!" but I am already regretting it. Please believe me that looking at another painting or sculpture of Mary is going to make me die on the spot. I understand why people like it but I personally just am cold. I don't care about churches, crypts, or early Christians.
posted by dame at 9:58 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
Who doesn't like bones? The ossuary of the Crypt of the Capuchin Monks on via Vittorio Veneto, south of the Borgia park, near the Fontana di Tritone (itself worth a look for bees on the Barberini crest).
Gelato from the Old Bridge Gelateria, Via del Bastoni di Michaelangelo.
posted by k3ninho at 10:02 AM on August 8, 2021 [5 favorites]
Gelato from the Old Bridge Gelateria, Via del Bastoni di Michaelangelo.
posted by k3ninho at 10:02 AM on August 8, 2021 [5 favorites]
I also came in here to say the Basilica of St. Clemente. I originally read about it here on Metafilter, and I think this makes it sound just fascinating.
posted by BlahLaLa at 10:03 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
posted by BlahLaLa at 10:03 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
Can you rent a car and take a day trip on one of your days? If so consider visiting the tarot sculpture garden. Also: as an outside museum, it's good for any possible Covid concerns.
posted by nantucket at 10:13 AM on August 8, 2021
posted by nantucket at 10:13 AM on August 8, 2021
Best answer: I am similar to you in taste, but lived in Rome for about six months (though 20 years ago now), so I know what you're talking about. If you're interested in architecture, the brutalist architecture in EUR was quite interesting, and a nice change of pace after seeing a lot of Roman ruins. I loved going to the food markets and hanging out at the Protestant Cemetery (bonus: cats!). Rome is an excellent city for wandering, especially by night, especially by the Tiber.
I lived in several neighborhoods in Rome, but liked Trastevere the most--it was off the beaten track at the time, since it's not connected by the subway, though given the number of Airbnbs now available, that may have changed.
posted by carrienation at 10:17 AM on August 8, 2021 [3 favorites]
I lived in several neighborhoods in Rome, but liked Trastevere the most--it was off the beaten track at the time, since it's not connected by the subway, though given the number of Airbnbs now available, that may have changed.
posted by carrienation at 10:17 AM on August 8, 2021 [3 favorites]
Best answer: My top choices would be:
The Pantheon: surprisingly modern inside, looks like it could've been built...relatively recently; plus the hole in the roof is amazeballs.
The Galleria Borghese: because Bernini was a stone-cold genius, really an incredible talent. The statue Apollo and Daphne is astonishing. Another can't miss would be his Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. (The church where this is located is near one of the hop-on, hop-off points of the tour bus routes.)
(honestly, came to the Borghese looking for Caravaggios, left being a Bernini fanboy, partly because his work does have a modern, multi-sensory aspect to it; for instance, the Apollo and Daphne is designed to be viewed in the round: as you move around the sculpture, Daphne gets more and more transformed into a tree. Saint Teresa is illuminated by natural light, as part of the composition, as is his Chair of Saint Peter)
The bus tour was fun, nice way to take in the sights.
Things I'd skip: Sistine Chapel (got tired of looking up, while guards shouted "silencio!" to the hordes of tourists) and the Vatican Galleries, which just seemed endless. But St. Peters was great (plus more Bernini). The Trevi Fountain was kinda meh for me, again hordes of tourists. I tended to appreciate the quieter sights, personally -- I mean, the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, pretty much had the place to myself because it's a little off the beaten path.
Re: modern or weird...I've heard they just opened up the underbelly of the Colosseum, where the gladiators and wild animals where housed before being brought up to the arena via elevators, that might make the list
posted by Bron at 10:27 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
The Pantheon: surprisingly modern inside, looks like it could've been built...relatively recently; plus the hole in the roof is amazeballs.
The Galleria Borghese: because Bernini was a stone-cold genius, really an incredible talent. The statue Apollo and Daphne is astonishing. Another can't miss would be his Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. (The church where this is located is near one of the hop-on, hop-off points of the tour bus routes.)
(honestly, came to the Borghese looking for Caravaggios, left being a Bernini fanboy, partly because his work does have a modern, multi-sensory aspect to it; for instance, the Apollo and Daphne is designed to be viewed in the round: as you move around the sculpture, Daphne gets more and more transformed into a tree. Saint Teresa is illuminated by natural light, as part of the composition, as is his Chair of Saint Peter)
The bus tour was fun, nice way to take in the sights.
Things I'd skip: Sistine Chapel (got tired of looking up, while guards shouted "silencio!" to the hordes of tourists) and the Vatican Galleries, which just seemed endless. But St. Peters was great (plus more Bernini). The Trevi Fountain was kinda meh for me, again hordes of tourists. I tended to appreciate the quieter sights, personally -- I mean, the Ecstasy of Saint Teresa, pretty much had the place to myself because it's a little off the beaten path.
Re: modern or weird...I've heard they just opened up the underbelly of the Colosseum, where the gladiators and wild animals where housed before being brought up to the arena via elevators, that might make the list
posted by Bron at 10:27 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
It’s been 20 years since I lived in Rome but there are also a few churches with Caravaggio paintings that you can just pop into, like San Luigi dei Francesi and around Piazza del Popolo? Off the top of my head.
Galleria Borghese is definitely great. Villa Giulia has a huge Etruscan collection, and if I recall correctly there’s a modern art museum nearby? There are definitely contemporary galleries and museums.
I always loved the Porta Portese flea market on Sunday mornings. You can take public transit to Ostia and spend the day at the beach. Some of my friends tease me but I love seeing movies in other countries/on vacation, and I remember an art house cinema in Trastevere (I have no idea if it still exists, but I’m certain there’s one somewhere).
posted by jeweled accumulation at 11:57 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
Galleria Borghese is definitely great. Villa Giulia has a huge Etruscan collection, and if I recall correctly there’s a modern art museum nearby? There are definitely contemporary galleries and museums.
I always loved the Porta Portese flea market on Sunday mornings. You can take public transit to Ostia and spend the day at the beach. Some of my friends tease me but I love seeing movies in other countries/on vacation, and I remember an art house cinema in Trastevere (I have no idea if it still exists, but I’m certain there’s one somewhere).
posted by jeweled accumulation at 11:57 AM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
You don’t mention how many of you will be in your party, but if it’s fewer than 4 (and ideally no more than 2) then I highly recommend this Airbnb near Navona Square. The apartment is located upstairs and overlooks Via dei Coronari, a small and quiet pedestrian street, but an easy walk to just about everything!
posted by kbar1 at 12:00 PM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
posted by kbar1 at 12:00 PM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
For weird: there's a statue of a disembodied foot just randomly roped off on the street within walking distance of the Pantheon.
There's also a tour of the community tombs that St Peter's Basilica was built on top of - including the location of St Peter's Tomb. You have to make reservations as far in advance as possible because they only allow about 10-12 people on each tour, given the space constraints of the location, but I highly recommend it, if at all possible for your trip.
I would also recommend the walking guides in the Blue Guide to Rome - probably the whole guide is too much for a short trip to Rome, but I really enjoyed their quick walking tours, which never took more than an hour, and pointed out really delightful little things, like a house that can't open it's shutters all the way because the ruins of the 3rd century Baths of Agrippa are in the way. It also has walking tours inside the major museums, which could be useful if you're trying to maximize your time in Rome. The book is also hilariously low key bitchy, with little off hand remarks like "a new entrance of no great architectural distinction (by Lucio Passarelli) was opened in 2000."
posted by airplant at 12:07 PM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
There's also a tour of the community tombs that St Peter's Basilica was built on top of - including the location of St Peter's Tomb. You have to make reservations as far in advance as possible because they only allow about 10-12 people on each tour, given the space constraints of the location, but I highly recommend it, if at all possible for your trip.
I would also recommend the walking guides in the Blue Guide to Rome - probably the whole guide is too much for a short trip to Rome, but I really enjoyed their quick walking tours, which never took more than an hour, and pointed out really delightful little things, like a house that can't open it's shutters all the way because the ruins of the 3rd century Baths of Agrippa are in the way. It also has walking tours inside the major museums, which could be useful if you're trying to maximize your time in Rome. The book is also hilariously low key bitchy, with little off hand remarks like "a new entrance of no great architectural distinction (by Lucio Passarelli) was opened in 2000."
posted by airplant at 12:07 PM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
It was a few years ago but we stayed here in Trastevere and both the apartment and neighborhood were very nice
posted by crocomancer at 1:51 PM on August 8, 2021
posted by crocomancer at 1:51 PM on August 8, 2021
Rome is probably my favorite place to be, and September is a great time to go, but I can understand your approach. I go there once a year with students, and it is most practical for me to stay in the historic center (including Trastevere), which are jam-packed with tourists. But if I were going there on holiday, I think I would look for a B&B in Testaccio (link to Eater, so food centric). It is close enough to the main sights, but "normal" enough for you to get a sense of everyday Roman life. I think there is a kind of apartment-hotel directly on top of the local market, with fair prices.
The old Testaccio market has been converted into a center for contemporary arts, with changing exhibitions. There are several interesting things to see in Testaccio and in the immediate vicinity, among others the Protestant Cemetery with the Cestius Pyramid, mentioned above. On the nearby Aventine hill, there is a famous door with a keyhole, through which there is a splendid view of Saint Peters. I like that place mostly because the adjacent park is a local favorite, so again a place where you can meet the real Romans. And I would feel fine if that was the closest I got to the Vatican. Not because it isn't worth a visit, but because the tourist-logistics are so soul-killing. Visit the Lateran or Santa Maria Maggiore for an impressive ancient cathedral instead. That said, you can visit the square in front of Saint Peter's for free with no lines and it is really impressive.
This brings me to a thing that is really nice about Rome, also mentioned above: a lot of the five-star attractions are right there for free in the public space, either in the streets and squares or in churches. Here is the Caravaggio in Piazza del Popolo, among several other masterpieces. You walk in, focus on what interests you, and walk out. No hassle.
Italy has become very overrun with tourists in the last decade or so, and it is problematic because you do get all of that shitty stuff, like tourist trap restaurants, crazy prices and pickpockets. But Rome has its own pulse. For one, it has been a tourist attraction for 2000 years. They can handle this. And secondly, since it is the capital city, there are lots of places that still focus on servicing the local community, from markets and stores to bars and restaurants and even hotels that focus more on people who are there to work or lobby, or pray, than on "normal" tourists.
The one thing you must see is the Pantheon. Go when it opens, I think at nine, when there will be few other tourists. Near the Pantheon is the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva -- Maria on top of the Minerva Temple, Rome's only Gothic Cathedral and worth a peak inside. But don't stress.
Also seconding the Ghetto, and the adjacent Marcellus Theatre area. There are still people living in the ancient theatre! So you don't go in, just wonder about the layers and layers of history. The same in the Ghetto. One of the houses has been continuously inhabited for almost two thousand years. And of course the history of the Ghetto is moving and rich.
From there, go to the Palazzo Spada. It's not contemporary, but it is truly cool, even if you have read about it in advance. Surprise your friends, though. I like visiting the apartments above, to see how a palace looks on the inside, but you don't have to. From there it is a short walk over the Piazza Farnese to the Campo de' Fiori, the oldest market in Rome, with the statue of Giordano Bruno. The market in itself has become very touristy, but it still functions as a local market and you can still shop for a nice picnic at the market and the surrounding groceries and charcuteries. Some of them will make you a sandwich with your salumi or formaggi of choice if you ask. Bring your sandwich to the Piazza Navona, where there are benches, and look at all the people. Then head for the small art space: Chiostro del Bramante. Last I was there, they had covered the renaissance courtyard with a cool hi-tech structure, but that might be gone (obviously, we couldn't go last year or this), I can see they are showing Banksy now.. From there, the Ponte sant' Angelo is close, with the impressing fortress which was once a mausoleum and then you have a piece of Fascist urbanism: Mussolini tore down a whole quarter to create a monumental access to Saint Peter's, the Via della Conziliazione.
Someone above mentioned going out to the EUR, but I think you might regret spending so much transportation time for something that is mostly like a midwestern downtown. Instead, go over to the Augustus Mausoleum. The piazza here was another of Mussolinis big projects, so you can sense the style of it. And, there is a museum that is really worth a visit. It was built in 2006, and it contains a monument from the Roman age: the Ara Pacis, and the museum in itself is so beautiful, literally cool because it has good temperature regulation, which might be relevant. In the archways surrounding the square, you can find a popular contemporary restaurant complex with many different offerings favored by locals and also one of the two places that claim to be the originators of the Pasta Alfredo. I do not recommend the latter, just wanted to say it is there. From there, there is only a short distance to the Spanish Steps, which have become tourist hell. But you can check that box and move on to Piazza del Popolo and the Caravaggio ;-)
Now from the Piazza del Popolo, you can take the tram out to Flaminio. Here, there are some really interesting modern and contemporary sights: the MAXXI museum, designed by Zaha Hadid, the olympic village, with several unusual structures, not least two round buildings by the famous engineer Nervi, and the auditorium, Parco della Musica.
OK, you probably don't want to do all of this in one day. But you could do it in two, and then have some time for some of the other suggestions here.
Some other recommendations:
The MACRO, museum of modern art.
Piazza and church of Sant' Ignazio. The piazza is built like a stage set, and inside the church, the ceilings are painted so you think there is a great vault and a dome, but it is all an illusion. The restaurant on the piazza is traditional and popular among politicians, and a great place to sit outdoors and eat at less of a premium cost than at the more famous piazzas.
Trattoria da Enzo al 29 in Trastevere is also traditional, but has a bit of a cult following, and you have to go there in person to get a reservation and still stand in line when you arrive. Though I suppose no-one knows yet if they can even open for business.
Katie Parla is a good ressource on Rome and Italy in general.
Enjoy your stay!
posted by mumimor at 2:00 PM on August 8, 2021 [10 favorites]
The old Testaccio market has been converted into a center for contemporary arts, with changing exhibitions. There are several interesting things to see in Testaccio and in the immediate vicinity, among others the Protestant Cemetery with the Cestius Pyramid, mentioned above. On the nearby Aventine hill, there is a famous door with a keyhole, through which there is a splendid view of Saint Peters. I like that place mostly because the adjacent park is a local favorite, so again a place where you can meet the real Romans. And I would feel fine if that was the closest I got to the Vatican. Not because it isn't worth a visit, but because the tourist-logistics are so soul-killing. Visit the Lateran or Santa Maria Maggiore for an impressive ancient cathedral instead. That said, you can visit the square in front of Saint Peter's for free with no lines and it is really impressive.
This brings me to a thing that is really nice about Rome, also mentioned above: a lot of the five-star attractions are right there for free in the public space, either in the streets and squares or in churches. Here is the Caravaggio in Piazza del Popolo, among several other masterpieces. You walk in, focus on what interests you, and walk out. No hassle.
Italy has become very overrun with tourists in the last decade or so, and it is problematic because you do get all of that shitty stuff, like tourist trap restaurants, crazy prices and pickpockets. But Rome has its own pulse. For one, it has been a tourist attraction for 2000 years. They can handle this. And secondly, since it is the capital city, there are lots of places that still focus on servicing the local community, from markets and stores to bars and restaurants and even hotels that focus more on people who are there to work or lobby, or pray, than on "normal" tourists.
The one thing you must see is the Pantheon. Go when it opens, I think at nine, when there will be few other tourists. Near the Pantheon is the church of Santa Maria Sopra Minerva -- Maria on top of the Minerva Temple, Rome's only Gothic Cathedral and worth a peak inside. But don't stress.
Also seconding the Ghetto, and the adjacent Marcellus Theatre area. There are still people living in the ancient theatre! So you don't go in, just wonder about the layers and layers of history. The same in the Ghetto. One of the houses has been continuously inhabited for almost two thousand years. And of course the history of the Ghetto is moving and rich.
From there, go to the Palazzo Spada. It's not contemporary, but it is truly cool, even if you have read about it in advance. Surprise your friends, though. I like visiting the apartments above, to see how a palace looks on the inside, but you don't have to. From there it is a short walk over the Piazza Farnese to the Campo de' Fiori, the oldest market in Rome, with the statue of Giordano Bruno. The market in itself has become very touristy, but it still functions as a local market and you can still shop for a nice picnic at the market and the surrounding groceries and charcuteries. Some of them will make you a sandwich with your salumi or formaggi of choice if you ask. Bring your sandwich to the Piazza Navona, where there are benches, and look at all the people. Then head for the small art space: Chiostro del Bramante. Last I was there, they had covered the renaissance courtyard with a cool hi-tech structure, but that might be gone (obviously, we couldn't go last year or this), I can see they are showing Banksy now.. From there, the Ponte sant' Angelo is close, with the impressing fortress which was once a mausoleum and then you have a piece of Fascist urbanism: Mussolini tore down a whole quarter to create a monumental access to Saint Peter's, the Via della Conziliazione.
Someone above mentioned going out to the EUR, but I think you might regret spending so much transportation time for something that is mostly like a midwestern downtown. Instead, go over to the Augustus Mausoleum. The piazza here was another of Mussolinis big projects, so you can sense the style of it. And, there is a museum that is really worth a visit. It was built in 2006, and it contains a monument from the Roman age: the Ara Pacis, and the museum in itself is so beautiful, literally cool because it has good temperature regulation, which might be relevant. In the archways surrounding the square, you can find a popular contemporary restaurant complex with many different offerings favored by locals and also one of the two places that claim to be the originators of the Pasta Alfredo. I do not recommend the latter, just wanted to say it is there. From there, there is only a short distance to the Spanish Steps, which have become tourist hell. But you can check that box and move on to Piazza del Popolo and the Caravaggio ;-)
Now from the Piazza del Popolo, you can take the tram out to Flaminio. Here, there are some really interesting modern and contemporary sights: the MAXXI museum, designed by Zaha Hadid, the olympic village, with several unusual structures, not least two round buildings by the famous engineer Nervi, and the auditorium, Parco della Musica.
OK, you probably don't want to do all of this in one day. But you could do it in two, and then have some time for some of the other suggestions here.
Some other recommendations:
The MACRO, museum of modern art.
Piazza and church of Sant' Ignazio. The piazza is built like a stage set, and inside the church, the ceilings are painted so you think there is a great vault and a dome, but it is all an illusion. The restaurant on the piazza is traditional and popular among politicians, and a great place to sit outdoors and eat at less of a premium cost than at the more famous piazzas.
Trattoria da Enzo al 29 in Trastevere is also traditional, but has a bit of a cult following, and you have to go there in person to get a reservation and still stand in line when you arrive. Though I suppose no-one knows yet if they can even open for business.
Katie Parla is a good ressource on Rome and Italy in general.
Enjoy your stay!
posted by mumimor at 2:00 PM on August 8, 2021 [10 favorites]
I only spent like 6 days in Rome so I'm no big expert, but I found that the trastevere neighborhood seemed the most "neighborhoody" area to me and filled with interesting restaurants and shops that seemed more modern. I also found the restaurants and cafes around the Vatican to be very relaxed. These seemed to me like the areas in Rome where it was just people who lived in Rome enjoying their days. YMMV. The apartments in trastevere looked like great airbnbs, too. I think there are a lot of them there.
posted by pazazygeek at 2:04 PM on August 8, 2021 [3 favorites]
posted by pazazygeek at 2:04 PM on August 8, 2021 [3 favorites]
The Pyramid of Cestius and the adjacent cemetery. Keats and Shelley are buried there.
posted by namret at 2:08 PM on August 8, 2021
posted by namret at 2:08 PM on August 8, 2021
Be aware that as of this past Friday, you’ll need to carry a copy of your CDC vaccination card pretty much everywhere as the “Green Pass” is now required for sitting down indoors at bars and restaurants, entrance to museums, events, malls, etc. PM me if there are kids in your group, as the regulations vary based on their age.
posted by romakimmy at 3:02 PM on August 8, 2021
posted by romakimmy at 3:02 PM on August 8, 2021
Is there good modern art or weird things to see in Rome that no one talks about because they are all on about the obvious?
The Vatican does have a contemporary art collection. What fingersandtoes says above about the Sistine Chapel itself being pretty tightly managed and controlled is true - but the Vatican galleries have WAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than just the Sistine Chapel. I was at the Vatican Galleries for about 4 hours all told, and only 15-20 minutes of that was at the Sistine Chapel. The rest of it was a very deep dive into the map rooms, about eight rooms with different murals, a tapestry room, that whole contemporary art collection, a big sculpture collection....
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 3:03 PM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
The Vatican does have a contemporary art collection. What fingersandtoes says above about the Sistine Chapel itself being pretty tightly managed and controlled is true - but the Vatican galleries have WAAAAAAAAAAAAY more than just the Sistine Chapel. I was at the Vatican Galleries for about 4 hours all told, and only 15-20 minutes of that was at the Sistine Chapel. The rest of it was a very deep dive into the map rooms, about eight rooms with different murals, a tapestry room, that whole contemporary art collection, a big sculpture collection....
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 3:03 PM on August 8, 2021 [1 favorite]
Hit "post" too soon -
It's kind of like how the Louvre is where the Mona Lisa is, and so the crowds all fall all over themselves to see that, but that just concentrates most of the crowds in this one place and leaves this big enormous rest of the museum fairly free for you to walk around in and explore.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 3:04 PM on August 8, 2021
It's kind of like how the Louvre is where the Mona Lisa is, and so the crowds all fall all over themselves to see that, but that just concentrates most of the crowds in this one place and leaves this big enormous rest of the museum fairly free for you to walk around in and explore.
posted by EmpressCallipygos at 3:04 PM on August 8, 2021
My family skipped the Vatican Museum and therefore the Sistine Chapel when we went. Unfortunately, the two museums that I remember most--the Museo della Civilta Romana (what we ditched the Sistine Chapel for) and the Museo Criminologico (in the offices of the ministry of prisons! there was a bloke following us around the whole time pretending he wasn't supervising us) have been "temporarily" closed for renovations for several years. However, we found both of these in either the Let's Go or Lonely Planet, so don't underestimate the fairly run of the mill guidebook for things that are interesting.
The other particularly memorable thing was Hadrian's Villa, but mostly because it was a public transit adventure (in theory, you can get there on a bus from the subway, but you're bound to miss it and end up in the next town, at which point you have to get on a local bus back) and we spent a good hour sitting on the side of the road waiting for the bus back to Rome to show up. Apparently it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so there's that. And there are lots of cats.
posted by hoyland at 4:17 PM on August 8, 2021
The other particularly memorable thing was Hadrian's Villa, but mostly because it was a public transit adventure (in theory, you can get there on a bus from the subway, but you're bound to miss it and end up in the next town, at which point you have to get on a local bus back) and we spent a good hour sitting on the side of the road waiting for the bus back to Rome to show up. Apparently it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so there's that. And there are lots of cats.
posted by hoyland at 4:17 PM on August 8, 2021
I remember the money museum by Termini station being fun for the variety as well as stories of where some of it was found.
posted by nickggully at 7:51 PM on August 8, 2021
posted by nickggully at 7:51 PM on August 8, 2021
I very much enjoyed staying in the medieval part of Rome. The atmosphere, especially at night, is unbeatable -- if you're from the US, it is a world-changer.
I know you say you're staying at an AirBnB, but my wife and I have stayed at La Maison dell'Orologio twice and loved it both times. Look around there -- Piazza Navona -- and you will find plenty of very good restaurants and exploring to do. It's right near all of the extremely touristy fountains that you're familiar with, but lots of other stuff, and you can get lost wandering through the alleys. It's extremely pleasant. It's also near the Pantheon, which is mind-blowingly cool. Seriously -- it's unbelievable that this thing was built 1900 years ago.
Totally agreed on Galleria Borghese as worth it.
posted by kdar at 9:19 PM on August 8, 2021
I know you say you're staying at an AirBnB, but my wife and I have stayed at La Maison dell'Orologio twice and loved it both times. Look around there -- Piazza Navona -- and you will find plenty of very good restaurants and exploring to do. It's right near all of the extremely touristy fountains that you're familiar with, but lots of other stuff, and you can get lost wandering through the alleys. It's extremely pleasant. It's also near the Pantheon, which is mind-blowingly cool. Seriously -- it's unbelievable that this thing was built 1900 years ago.
Totally agreed on Galleria Borghese as worth it.
posted by kdar at 9:19 PM on August 8, 2021
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posted by basalganglia at 9:36 AM on August 8, 2021 [5 favorites]