Eire for Beginners
June 29, 2017 1:29 PM Subscribe
My girlfriend and I are going to Eire in August for a week, and I'd love some suggestions. I thought we would spend 3-4 days in Dublin and then take the train to Galway for a couple more days. But the only thing set in stone is that we arrive in Dublin on one Saturday, and depart from Dublin the following Saturday. We have not yet booked places to stay. What's the best use of our time?
We are not Irish. We are not Catholic. Neither of us has been before. Neither of us wants to drive (I am actually banned from driving on the left side of the road by several international treaties). We're pretty active, and like to walk, and might even ride bikes if we could rent them easily. Where should we go in these areas, and what day trips should we take? Do you have suggestions for good places to stay in Dublin and Galway? What restaurants and food should we be sure to try, especially food that is not as heavy as I imagine typical Irish cuisine to be? Please let us hear your suggestions!
We are not Irish. We are not Catholic. Neither of us has been before. Neither of us wants to drive (I am actually banned from driving on the left side of the road by several international treaties). We're pretty active, and like to walk, and might even ride bikes if we could rent them easily. Where should we go in these areas, and what day trips should we take? Do you have suggestions for good places to stay in Dublin and Galway? What restaurants and food should we be sure to try, especially food that is not as heavy as I imagine typical Irish cuisine to be? Please let us hear your suggestions!
My favorite day in Ireland was our day trip to the Aran Islands. We booked it at one of the tourist places in Galway and it was amazing. If I had my trip to do again, I would plan to stay over.
You can rent bikes there, and bike along the road around the island. It is one of the most beautiful places in the world.
posted by elvissa at 1:44 PM on June 29, 2017 [1 favorite]
You can rent bikes there, and bike along the road around the island. It is one of the most beautiful places in the world.
posted by elvissa at 1:44 PM on June 29, 2017 [1 favorite]
Irish food isn't too special, I wouldn't be that concerned, and there are decent restaurants/ pubs in most places you'll go so you'll be fine.
Spend as much time as possible in the west of Ireland, that's where all the dramatic scenery is. Incredible coastlines and beaches. The East is fairly tame and boring in comparison. Going to Galway and onwards to Connemara/ Aran Islands is a good idea, there'll be plenty of tours around that area. There are some very good hikes there too, but without a car you may struggle to reach the startpoints. Also note that nearly every hike you do in Ireland will be off a path, and likely on wet ground, so bring waterproof hiking boots ( and a map if you're serious)!
You could get train/ bus to Killarney in Kerry (Southwest) and then get a bus around the ring of Kerry (views are amazing) That takes a day I think and is unlikely to involve much activity but the views will be more than worth it. If you fancy a more active holiday doing the Kerry way or some of it would be highly recommended.
If you are very interested (as it would take organizing without a car) if you ring now you may get a place on a boat to visit the Skelligs (where the end of Star Wars Force Awakens was filmed). You'd need to book that ASAP though as it might already be booked out.
If you're determined to stick around Dublin, perhaps get a bus to Glendalough (about an hour from Dublin) there are some lovely monastic ruins and some tame (dry) hikes to be had.
I'm sure you can rent a bike easily enough but I wouldn't feel that safe cycling on the roads myself.
PM me if you want more!
posted by Lucy_32 at 2:10 PM on June 29, 2017 [2 favorites]
Spend as much time as possible in the west of Ireland, that's where all the dramatic scenery is. Incredible coastlines and beaches. The East is fairly tame and boring in comparison. Going to Galway and onwards to Connemara/ Aran Islands is a good idea, there'll be plenty of tours around that area. There are some very good hikes there too, but without a car you may struggle to reach the startpoints. Also note that nearly every hike you do in Ireland will be off a path, and likely on wet ground, so bring waterproof hiking boots ( and a map if you're serious)!
You could get train/ bus to Killarney in Kerry (Southwest) and then get a bus around the ring of Kerry (views are amazing) That takes a day I think and is unlikely to involve much activity but the views will be more than worth it. If you fancy a more active holiday doing the Kerry way or some of it would be highly recommended.
If you are very interested (as it would take organizing without a car) if you ring now you may get a place on a boat to visit the Skelligs (where the end of Star Wars Force Awakens was filmed). You'd need to book that ASAP though as it might already be booked out.
If you're determined to stick around Dublin, perhaps get a bus to Glendalough (about an hour from Dublin) there are some lovely monastic ruins and some tame (dry) hikes to be had.
I'm sure you can rent a bike easily enough but I wouldn't feel that safe cycling on the roads myself.
PM me if you want more!
posted by Lucy_32 at 2:10 PM on June 29, 2017 [2 favorites]
I tend to mention Newgrange in these threads. It's worth it, man. I also really like the National Museum, bog bodies et al.
If you're willing to change your planned path at all, the bus ride from Galway to Derry was really, really pretty, and you could just stop in Sligo and walk around and mutter Yeats poetry to yourself. The main thing that I hadn't really realized before I went for the first time is that, in the rural parts of Ireland that aren't distinct walking tracks, it's actually hard to walk places because they're mostly narrow 1 1/2 lane roads, many with rock walls on both shoulders. So it's worth it to plan ahead with a handy-dandy list of said trails.
posted by theweasel at 2:27 PM on June 29, 2017 [3 favorites]
If you're willing to change your planned path at all, the bus ride from Galway to Derry was really, really pretty, and you could just stop in Sligo and walk around and mutter Yeats poetry to yourself. The main thing that I hadn't really realized before I went for the first time is that, in the rural parts of Ireland that aren't distinct walking tracks, it's actually hard to walk places because they're mostly narrow 1 1/2 lane roads, many with rock walls on both shoulders. So it's worth it to plan ahead with a handy-dandy list of said trails.
posted by theweasel at 2:27 PM on June 29, 2017 [3 favorites]
When I went to Giant's causeway (scenery I will never forget) we made a stop at the Bushmills distillery, that was pretty cool.
posted by wolfr at 2:44 PM on June 29, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by wolfr at 2:44 PM on June 29, 2017 [1 favorite]
If you go to Trinity the Dead Zoo just reopened and it's worth a quick stop. It's actually called the national history museum of Ireland or something, I don't know the real name but it's right there and it's the only natural history museum so easy to find. It's a Victorian era natural history museum and it's A-amazing. Take you 45 minutes to wander around it. If you have a nice camera bring it.
In Galway you can definitely get a hire bus or van to the Aran islands ferry, just ask at a hostel or your hotel for info. But they exist for sure.
I'd argue that without a car or lots of time on buses there is a lot more to see in Dublin than Galway city which is very small and is a college/ tourist town mostly. You could just get a cottage in the coast and a ride to it and stay a few days and wander around. Plenty of places to walk in Ireland and if the weather's nice there is great sea sports: diving, snorkeling kayaking etc.
posted by fshgrl at 5:05 PM on June 29, 2017
In Galway you can definitely get a hire bus or van to the Aran islands ferry, just ask at a hostel or your hotel for info. But they exist for sure.
I'd argue that without a car or lots of time on buses there is a lot more to see in Dublin than Galway city which is very small and is a college/ tourist town mostly. You could just get a cottage in the coast and a ride to it and stay a few days and wander around. Plenty of places to walk in Ireland and if the weather's nice there is great sea sports: diving, snorkeling kayaking etc.
posted by fshgrl at 5:05 PM on June 29, 2017
Eire is Ireland in Irish. You are not speaking Irish; please don't call it Eire. Nobody cares if you are or are not Catholic. People outside Dublin will be delighted that you are not Irish; this country lives on tourism.
I am not a missive fan of Galway -- I literally do not understand the attraction, it's the McLeprechaun of Ireland -- but that's me. If you are interested in understanding more about good places to go, have a look here.
Personally, I would spend 2 days in Dublin, see the book of Kells, go to some museums. Then I would get on a train for Cork, have a pint with me, go to the Butter Museum, ring the Shandon Bells, and then head west. Kerry isn't accessible without a car, but you can do Clonakilty, Cobh, and Kinsale from here. There's an airport bus direct from Cork for your return flight.
Irish food may or may not be what you imagine. You can't move in this country for craft beer, ramen and donuts. Everything is served on a slab of slate or a wooden board and last week my local coffee roaster tried to serve me a latte in a jar. If you're looking for specific suggestions, here are a bunch.
posted by DarlingBri at 6:03 PM on June 29, 2017 [10 favorites]
I am not a missive fan of Galway -- I literally do not understand the attraction, it's the McLeprechaun of Ireland -- but that's me. If you are interested in understanding more about good places to go, have a look here.
Personally, I would spend 2 days in Dublin, see the book of Kells, go to some museums. Then I would get on a train for Cork, have a pint with me, go to the Butter Museum, ring the Shandon Bells, and then head west. Kerry isn't accessible without a car, but you can do Clonakilty, Cobh, and Kinsale from here. There's an airport bus direct from Cork for your return flight.
Irish food may or may not be what you imagine. You can't move in this country for craft beer, ramen and donuts. Everything is served on a slab of slate or a wooden board and last week my local coffee roaster tried to serve me a latte in a jar. If you're looking for specific suggestions, here are a bunch.
posted by DarlingBri at 6:03 PM on June 29, 2017 [10 favorites]
Lots of good suggestions above. I'd suggest researching all of our suggestions on your own and seeing what most strikes your fancy. I lived in Ireland for about 4 years and have also spent a fair bit of time visiting there over the past 25+ years, so here are my suggestions.
It would be a crime to spend 3-4 days of only a week's holiday in Ireland in Dublin! Give it a couple of days. tops, and then get to the west, where the scenery is breathtaking. If you go to Galway, you only need a night there. The best bits of Ireland are the countryside. I would recommend the Aran Islands, as others have done above.
It is technically possible to do Kerry without a car, sort of (because I have, twice), but it's kind of a pain. Lucy's suggestions are good if you decide to go that route. The Skelligs are certainly worth a visit. However, with only a week, you may want to consider more easily accessible options.
Newgrange is amazing, and worth a visit I think. I thought it might be overhyped/overtouristed and disappointing, but I found a visit there very atmospheric.
Irish food is a lot better than it used to be, but it's still pretty basic.
Irish people in general will be very relieved to meet visitors from America who do not claim to be Irish by virtue of ancestry.
posted by tiger tiger at 11:39 PM on June 29, 2017 [1 favorite]
It would be a crime to spend 3-4 days of only a week's holiday in Ireland in Dublin! Give it a couple of days. tops, and then get to the west, where the scenery is breathtaking. If you go to Galway, you only need a night there. The best bits of Ireland are the countryside. I would recommend the Aran Islands, as others have done above.
It is technically possible to do Kerry without a car, sort of (because I have, twice), but it's kind of a pain. Lucy's suggestions are good if you decide to go that route. The Skelligs are certainly worth a visit. However, with only a week, you may want to consider more easily accessible options.
Newgrange is amazing, and worth a visit I think. I thought it might be overhyped/overtouristed and disappointing, but I found a visit there very atmospheric.
Irish food is a lot better than it used to be, but it's still pretty basic.
Irish people in general will be very relieved to meet visitors from America who do not claim to be Irish by virtue of ancestry.
posted by tiger tiger at 11:39 PM on June 29, 2017 [1 favorite]
Just wanted to say - don't call Ireland Eire, it annoys the Irish. Also I hope you enjoy your trip!
posted by stevedawg at 10:45 AM on June 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
posted by stevedawg at 10:45 AM on June 30, 2017 [1 favorite]
+1 to the Aran Islands - and if you can stay overnight it's really special to be there after all the day visitors have gone! It's very easy to get there from Galway without a car. This place was my favorite restaurant that we ate in all of Ireland; I could have stayed there for days trying all the cakes.
posted by Owl of Athena at 10:58 AM on June 30, 2017
posted by Owl of Athena at 10:58 AM on June 30, 2017
If you're more than 2 days in Dublin then it's definitely worth doing a day trip or two: Newgrange, Howth, Glendalough all good.
The National Museum is small but great. Astonishing ancient objects (the Jasper axehead with a spiral carved on it, a weird three faced stone head, bog bodies, and gold gold gold.)
You should also go on the tour of Kilmainham gaol, where the 1916 uprising's leaders were executed. It's a solemn and informative introduction to the 20th century history of Ireland.
Another Dublin attraction worth checking out is the Irish film institute in the old quaker meeting house. Nice courtyard cafe, always an interesting film selection. Good if it's raining.
Cork, I dunno. Great city, but it is a bit of a schlep from Dublin, and if you want to see the wild beautiful parts of the county you will need a car. Same with Kerry. Places like the Skelligs etc are magic, but it's a logistical nightmare if you're not on wheels.
Galway town is crowded and very drinky on a summer weekend evening, but there's a fantastic bookshop (Charlie Byrne's) and the access to the Aran Islands makes it worthwhile. Definitely spend the night on the islands if you go.
The town of Sligo is another west coast option to consider--3 hours by train from Dublin, access to beaches, spas that specialize in hot seawater and seaweed baths, a massive megalithic cemetery at Carrowmore, fantastic mountains, Yeats stuff coming out of your ears, lots of good food options.
There are a lot of interesting restaurants in Dublin, you'll be spoiled for choice. In other parts of the country it's not uncommon to come across restaurants serving fantastic fresh and/or organic local foods. Your average town restaurant will have decent chips (fries). The salad will be fresh. The tea will be good, the Guinness smooth. The soup of the day will be vegetable, nine times out of ten.
posted by Morpeth at 2:54 PM on June 30, 2017
The National Museum is small but great. Astonishing ancient objects (the Jasper axehead with a spiral carved on it, a weird three faced stone head, bog bodies, and gold gold gold.)
You should also go on the tour of Kilmainham gaol, where the 1916 uprising's leaders were executed. It's a solemn and informative introduction to the 20th century history of Ireland.
Another Dublin attraction worth checking out is the Irish film institute in the old quaker meeting house. Nice courtyard cafe, always an interesting film selection. Good if it's raining.
Cork, I dunno. Great city, but it is a bit of a schlep from Dublin, and if you want to see the wild beautiful parts of the county you will need a car. Same with Kerry. Places like the Skelligs etc are magic, but it's a logistical nightmare if you're not on wheels.
Galway town is crowded and very drinky on a summer weekend evening, but there's a fantastic bookshop (Charlie Byrne's) and the access to the Aran Islands makes it worthwhile. Definitely spend the night on the islands if you go.
The town of Sligo is another west coast option to consider--3 hours by train from Dublin, access to beaches, spas that specialize in hot seawater and seaweed baths, a massive megalithic cemetery at Carrowmore, fantastic mountains, Yeats stuff coming out of your ears, lots of good food options.
There are a lot of interesting restaurants in Dublin, you'll be spoiled for choice. In other parts of the country it's not uncommon to come across restaurants serving fantastic fresh and/or organic local foods. Your average town restaurant will have decent chips (fries). The salad will be fresh. The tea will be good, the Guinness smooth. The soup of the day will be vegetable, nine times out of ten.
posted by Morpeth at 2:54 PM on June 30, 2017
I haven't been to Dublin in a while, but if it's still there, I can't recommend hitting up Queen of Tarts strongly enough. TARTS! TEA! ALL OF IT DELICIOUS!
Probably my favorite part of visiting Dublin was Glasnevin Cemetery, but I am something of a creepy kid (also, I was doing a school project on cemeteries) so YMMV. Kilmainham Gaol was also worth a visit.
If you're a whisky fan, I really enjoyed the Jameson's Distillery tour, and if you manage to get picked at the end of the tour to be a taste tester, you get a free "Jameson's taste tester" certificate to take home, which was kinda fun. The Guinness tour, while obviously a bit touristy, was also really solid. Much more dynamic museum than I expected, so it was a pleasant surprise.
Agree re: Aran Islands if you're able to get the ferry over from Galway. Any of the three islands out there are totally gorgeous. Inisheer in particular has a really cool sunken church thing somewhere on it that was well worth a look. Also, despite what anyone tells you "póg mo thóin" is not Irish for "thank you". They would be, and I quote, "taking the piss" if they told you this. :)
I like Galway well enough because apparently Claddagh rings were invented there and I've got a soft spot for them because of Buffy the Vampire Slayer, but it can easily be seen in a day. Also, I stayed at a hostel there called Snoozles that was clean and nice, in addition to having the single best name for a hostel I've ever seen.
Just my two cents. Have fun!
posted by helloimjennsco at 12:13 PM on July 5, 2017
Probably my favorite part of visiting Dublin was Glasnevin Cemetery, but I am something of a creepy kid (also, I was doing a school project on cemeteries) so YMMV. Kilmainham Gaol was also worth a visit.
If you're a whisky fan, I really enjoyed the Jameson's Distillery tour, and if you manage to get picked at the end of the tour to be a taste tester, you get a free "Jameson's taste tester" certificate to take home, which was kinda fun. The Guinness tour, while obviously a bit touristy, was also really solid. Much more dynamic museum than I expected, so it was a pleasant surprise.
Agree re: Aran Islands if you're able to get the ferry over from Galway. Any of the three islands out there are totally gorgeous. Inisheer in particular has a really cool sunken church thing somewhere on it that was well worth a look. Also, despite what anyone tells you "póg mo thóin" is not Irish for "thank you". They would be, and I quote, "taking the piss" if they told you this. :)
I like Galway well enough because apparently Claddagh rings were invented there and I've got a soft spot for them because of Buffy the Vampire Slayer, but it can easily be seen in a day. Also, I stayed at a hostel there called Snoozles that was clean and nice, in addition to having the single best name for a hostel I've ever seen.
Just my two cents. Have fun!
posted by helloimjennsco at 12:13 PM on July 5, 2017
Response by poster: Thanks for all the information! We'll put it in action soon!
posted by ubiquity at 8:55 AM on July 31, 2017
posted by ubiquity at 8:55 AM on July 31, 2017
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Do see the Book of Kells, it's gorgeous. Wander around the city - it's not enormous.
Take in a show at the Abbey Theater, do silly touristy things.
posted by csmithrim at 1:40 PM on June 29, 2017 [1 favorite]