Can't decide between Hakone and Himeji!

June 29, 2015 4:15 PM

I can't decide between doing a day trip from Osaka to Himeji and doing a day trip from Tokyo to Hakone. Can you please help, given the following facts?

This is for October. Here's where I'm coming from:

-- I grew up in a Japanese household, have been there several times and have already seen a variety of sights from rural to urban, so it's not a case of "____ will give you a better idea of what Japan is like." Assume I'm already familiar with the country and culture.
-- Using the JR pass, so train cost isn't a factor. Travel time may be, however.
-- It's the Open Air Museum that's drawing me to Hakone (though I plan to explore elsewhere, too). Is it worth it?
-- It's the castle that's drawing me to Himeji. Is it really worth spending the time to get there, given that I've already seen many other famous Japanese castles? (I'm aware of the restoration that finished in March.)
-- We have no other day trips planned from Tokyo but we are planning two other day trips from Osaka.


It'd be helpful to hear your thoughts even if you've only been to one of the two sites. Thanks!

posted by paperback version to Travel & Transportation around Japan (12 answers total)

Response by poster: Thank you, Gotanda. For various reasons I need to get my hotel reservations done this week. If the weather doesn't allow for a day-trip, I'd rather be "stuck" in Tokyo than in Osaka, so maybe that's another reason to plan for Hakone over Himeji.
posted by paperback version at 4:42 PM on June 29, 2015

Well, the Hakone museum has just been renovated, so there's that. Fundamentally these are two completely different experiences you are proposing.

If you already have invested a couple of days in Osaka as you have said above, you might want to try out Hakone. Even if the weather is bad you can still go to a hot spring (higaeri).
posted by Nevin at 4:56 PM on June 29, 2015

I've been to both, and I preferred Himeji, but then again, I was newer to Japan when I went. But, by far, it's the most impressive Japanese castle I've seen. Like, I barely even remember Kumamoto-jo, which I suppose is supposed to be a nice castle.
posted by Bugbread at 7:02 PM on June 29, 2015

Haven't been to Himeji but I absolutely loved the Open Air Museum so here's another vote for Hakone
posted by tillwehavefaces at 10:08 PM on June 29, 2015

I've been to the castle in Himeji. It had some nice points but over all wasn't anything special. This was in December however so the overall blah weather may have had an impact on the experience. I'm generally a big fan of temples and the like, but if you've got a small amount of days, then a daytrip to Himeji doesn't seem well-spent to me.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 12:03 AM on June 30, 2015

The open air museum is fantastic. Like Gotanda I have gone a couple of times and I would happily go again tomorrow if someone invited me. It's also a great place to take kids.

Himeji is Himeji -- if you've already seen a couple of castles and don't feel a burning urge to see more, well, it probably won't be as memorable an experience as the open air museum.

Plus, you know what's on the way to Hakone? Odawara Castle. It's no Himeji, but it's a fun side trip.
posted by No-sword at 1:31 AM on June 30, 2015 [1 favorite]

I've visited many, many castles in Japan, usually far more than most Japanese.

Himeji castle blows them all away.

The shinkansen will get you from Osaka to Himeji in 35 minutes. Have you perhaps considered getting a bit more value out of the JR pass than this?
posted by Juso No Thankyou at 8:40 AM on June 30, 2015

I lived in Himeji 20 years ago, just a few blocks from the castle. My daily run used to take me around the castle every evening, and even after a year I'd be running along the moat and would look up and think, man, I can't believe I'm running around this castle! Because it was never destroyed and rebuilt--that is, because it's largely the original structure, unlike the castle in Osaka, for example--there's something even more special about it. I have not been to Hakone though.
posted by bassomatic at 8:48 AM on June 30, 2015

Response by poster: Thanks so much for the input. I think I'm leaning toward Hakone b/c it's more of a unique experience. Maybe I'll do Himeji some other time.

In Hakone, what one other thing would you see aside from the Open Air Museum, not including onsen?
posted by paperback version at 9:24 AM on June 30, 2015

Right now, I would probably focus on fleeing the erupting volcano.

In October, assuming things are back to normal... if you mean one more thing to squeeze in on the same day, another museum, I guess - maybe the Okada Museum depending on how you plan to get around. If you mean a whole other day's worth of activity, perhaps climbing/hiking around Mt. Kintoki.
posted by No-sword at 5:25 PM on June 30, 2015

I'd love to be able to recommend something else to see in Hakone after the Open Air Museum, but when I was there on a day trip with a friend (getting on for ten years ago, but I doubt it's changed much), we spent so long at the museum that we didn't really have time to see anything else. You might find the same.
posted by ManyLeggedCreature at 11:40 PM on July 2, 2015

Riding the cable-car over Owakudani in Hakone is awesome. Likewise you can eat eggs cooked in volcanic water, take a walk through the volcanic region, and take a cheesy "pirate ship" ride on Lake Ashi. If you're lucky, you'll have views of Fuji. Hakone is great fun. Stop by Gyoza Center in Gora and eat gobs of gyoza. Visit Hakone Jinja, nestled in the woods, and spend a night at the Taiseikan onsen. Hmmm, on the other hand, I do see some news around earthquake warnings for the region which might restrict activities around Owakudani. Best to follow up on those before making a decision.
posted by ReginaHart at 5:33 PM on July 5, 2015 [1 favorite]