Japan Immersion
November 3, 2010 10:44 AM Subscribe
Non-touristy must do's in Japan? Interesting ideas for 'projects'/missions to make this trip fun? Cultural tips/faux-pas to avoid? Quirky facts/tips?
About 10 days. Will be based in Tokyo Shibuya for 4 nights, 1 in Nara, 1 in Osaka, then Kyoto for 4.
Will do my share of being a standard tourist, but recommendations for a less superficial immersion? Interesting 'projects' welcomed (e.g. hunting for an obscure 'only in japanese grocery store' item/flavor)
Any Cultural faux-pas to be wary of, etc?
About 10 days. Will be based in Tokyo Shibuya for 4 nights, 1 in Nara, 1 in Osaka, then Kyoto for 4.
Will do my share of being a standard tourist, but recommendations for a less superficial immersion? Interesting 'projects' welcomed (e.g. hunting for an obscure 'only in japanese grocery store' item/flavor)
Any Cultural faux-pas to be wary of, etc?
Find the weirdest and most obscure flavored Pocky and Pretz that you can. Some of them are only sold regionally, adding to the fun!
posted by Ahab at 10:55 AM on November 3, 2010
posted by Ahab at 10:55 AM on November 3, 2010
Go to a public bath.
posted by vincele at 10:56 AM on November 3, 2010 [2 favorites]
posted by vincele at 10:56 AM on November 3, 2010 [2 favorites]
Kinda touristy, but I really enjoyed a few hours at The New York Bar at the top of the Park Hyatt in Tokyo, as seen in Lost in Translation. Amazing view, great service, and fun, albeit a bit expensive - £33 ($50) for 4 beers.
I also enjoyed trying all the weird and wonderful drinks available from the millions of convenience stores and vending machines. I tried a different one each time I think.
Definately be aware of when to take off your shoes, although it's usually pretty obvious. I almost always wore slip on sneakers with socks to make the process quicker and easier. Don't mix rice (served with almost every meal in a seperate bowl) directly in with the food.
I loved the food and picking out places to go and different styles to try - and I'll say, the worst meal we had was at a restaurant from a guidebook. We never went too far wrong with just going to places that looked busy and yummy. I found choosing bars more difficult and we did use the guidebook recommendations more frequently.
posted by peanut butter milkshake at 11:17 AM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
I also enjoyed trying all the weird and wonderful drinks available from the millions of convenience stores and vending machines. I tried a different one each time I think.
Definately be aware of when to take off your shoes, although it's usually pretty obvious. I almost always wore slip on sneakers with socks to make the process quicker and easier. Don't mix rice (served with almost every meal in a seperate bowl) directly in with the food.
I loved the food and picking out places to go and different styles to try - and I'll say, the worst meal we had was at a restaurant from a guidebook. We never went too far wrong with just going to places that looked busy and yummy. I found choosing bars more difficult and we did use the guidebook recommendations more frequently.
posted by peanut butter milkshake at 11:17 AM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
Spend a full night out. Trains/subways tend to stop running by 1 am and taxis are expensive so tons of people end up just hanging out downtown until the morning. This keeps karaoke boxes, crappy restaurants (Saizeriya anyone?) and convenience stores in business, and people are much less reserved then usual (as evidenced by the rampant public urination). Kyoto's nice because lots of people will hang out by the river (Kamo river) in little groups doing silly stuff to kill time (obviously it is much more fun in the summer).
You could also spend a couple of hours at a "free play" place. Basically you pay a set fee (say 120 yen/15 minutes) and then you have the run of the places facilities. The one I used to go to in Kyoto (Club JJ on Kawaramachi) had arcade games, bowling, karaoke, pool, batting cages and more. They're always offering specials too.
I don't know if this is non-touristy or not, but in Kyoto/Nara anyway there are lots of places where you can go for a nice hike (hike = walk with change in elevation. no special footwear required). Lots of times the hikes will involve passage near/to temples/shrines, but just walking on a trail surrounded by trees and nice views is really nice, especially if you've spent a couple of days in downtown areas.
Try to spend a night in a love hotel. It shouldn't cost more than your regular accommodation, but is a pretty fun thing to do (plus you get room service).
Japanese grocery stores are fun too. Any department store will have one (in the basement floor). Lots of fresh and freshly prepared foods and a good lunch option if you're on the go.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:30 AM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
You could also spend a couple of hours at a "free play" place. Basically you pay a set fee (say 120 yen/15 minutes) and then you have the run of the places facilities. The one I used to go to in Kyoto (Club JJ on Kawaramachi) had arcade games, bowling, karaoke, pool, batting cages and more. They're always offering specials too.
I don't know if this is non-touristy or not, but in Kyoto/Nara anyway there are lots of places where you can go for a nice hike (hike = walk with change in elevation. no special footwear required). Lots of times the hikes will involve passage near/to temples/shrines, but just walking on a trail surrounded by trees and nice views is really nice, especially if you've spent a couple of days in downtown areas.
Try to spend a night in a love hotel. It shouldn't cost more than your regular accommodation, but is a pretty fun thing to do (plus you get room service).
Japanese grocery stores are fun too. Any department store will have one (in the basement floor). Lots of fresh and freshly prepared foods and a good lunch option if you're on the go.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:30 AM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
When in Tokyo I usually go to Kinokuniya Bookstore at Takashima Times Square in Shinjuku. Next door there is Tokyu Hands, an interesting quasi-"hardware store" that has all sorts of cool stuff. Checking out Kchioji in western Tokyo might give you more of a taste of what it's like to live in the region (Kichioji is often ranked as the best place to live in Tokyo).
It doesn't make any sense to try to avoid tourist pursuits in Nara, because it is probably the best tourist area in the world. It's spaced out. Not much traffic. Easy to walk. Lots to see. The National Museum is fantastic. Check out Heijo-Kyo on the west side of town, near Saidaiji Station. Nara is really fantastic. Not only does it offer a window on the Japan of 1300 years ago, it is also a showcase of Silk Road, Chinese, Central Asian and Hellenic culture from that time, too.
But the best thing to do in Nara if you want to shake off the tourism blues is to walk everywhere.
When in Osaka, ride the Hankyu train to Kobe. Or take Hankyu to Kyoto. The trains are wine-colored, with plus green seating, faux wood-paneling and cool aluminum sunscreens. Easily the most beautiful trains in all of Japan.
In Kyoto, go to the Starbucks at Shijo-bashi. Grab a drink, walk down to the river, and watch the people.
Go to the south side of Kyoto Station, walk across the street to the bus terminal, and then keep walking south. There's a really interesting Korean neighbourhood there.
Take Keihan to Sakamoto Station (over the mountains, north of Otsu on Lake Biwa). Hike up Hiei-zan mountain from Sakamoto, to go to Enrakuji. There are two trails - the first trailhead is closest to Sakamoto Station and the cable car, and is not as interesting. About 50 meters or so down the road there is the old trailhead. It leads to a trail that goes up cobbled steps that must be 1000 years old.
Try taking the JR Tokkaido Line to Azuchi-Jo, just outside of Kusatsu and Omi-Hachiman in Shiga (about 15 from Kyoto Station).
Once again, this is a nice hike that is not well-known to tourists. Omi-Hachiman is worth visiting, too.
While in Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto, go window shopping in a department store.
posted by KokuRyu at 11:32 AM on November 3, 2010 [4 favorites]
It doesn't make any sense to try to avoid tourist pursuits in Nara, because it is probably the best tourist area in the world. It's spaced out. Not much traffic. Easy to walk. Lots to see. The National Museum is fantastic. Check out Heijo-Kyo on the west side of town, near Saidaiji Station. Nara is really fantastic. Not only does it offer a window on the Japan of 1300 years ago, it is also a showcase of Silk Road, Chinese, Central Asian and Hellenic culture from that time, too.
But the best thing to do in Nara if you want to shake off the tourism blues is to walk everywhere.
When in Osaka, ride the Hankyu train to Kobe. Or take Hankyu to Kyoto. The trains are wine-colored, with plus green seating, faux wood-paneling and cool aluminum sunscreens. Easily the most beautiful trains in all of Japan.
In Kyoto, go to the Starbucks at Shijo-bashi. Grab a drink, walk down to the river, and watch the people.
Go to the south side of Kyoto Station, walk across the street to the bus terminal, and then keep walking south. There's a really interesting Korean neighbourhood there.
Take Keihan to Sakamoto Station (over the mountains, north of Otsu on Lake Biwa). Hike up Hiei-zan mountain from Sakamoto, to go to Enrakuji. There are two trails - the first trailhead is closest to Sakamoto Station and the cable car, and is not as interesting. About 50 meters or so down the road there is the old trailhead. It leads to a trail that goes up cobbled steps that must be 1000 years old.
Try taking the JR Tokkaido Line to Azuchi-Jo, just outside of Kusatsu and Omi-Hachiman in Shiga (about 15 from Kyoto Station).
Once again, this is a nice hike that is not well-known to tourists. Omi-Hachiman is worth visiting, too.
While in Tokyo, Osaka or Kyoto, go window shopping in a department store.
posted by KokuRyu at 11:32 AM on November 3, 2010 [4 favorites]
If you have a native speaker with you, I highly recommend the trek out to Nikko Edo Mura.
From the American perspective, this is basically Ye Olde Japanese Renaissance Faire. complete with processions of samurai with fake samurai wigs/bald caps. Totally fascinating because it's really intended to be a tourist destination for Japanese - which means you get a uniquely Japanese perspective of their own history. This includes some frankly shocking (and repeated) depictions of village punishment/torture, the first visits by Westerners, etc.
I didn't notice any effort at any communication in anything other than Japanese, and when I went, I didn't see any non-Japanese in attendance. Would have been semi-awful without my Japanese speaking wife, but absolutely wonderful with her there.
posted by NoRelationToLea at 11:53 AM on November 3, 2010 [2 favorites]
From the American perspective, this is basically Ye Olde Japanese Renaissance Faire. complete with processions of samurai with fake samurai wigs/bald caps. Totally fascinating because it's really intended to be a tourist destination for Japanese - which means you get a uniquely Japanese perspective of their own history. This includes some frankly shocking (and repeated) depictions of village punishment/torture, the first visits by Westerners, etc.
I didn't notice any effort at any communication in anything other than Japanese, and when I went, I didn't see any non-Japanese in attendance. Would have been semi-awful without my Japanese speaking wife, but absolutely wonderful with her there.
posted by NoRelationToLea at 11:53 AM on November 3, 2010 [2 favorites]
2nd the vending machine drinks.
Kyoto train station has a nice department store. If I'm remembering correctly, there was a floor devoted to stationery. And there were interesting foods underground.
When you take the train, buy one of the box lunches from a vendor. My goal was to have the most little compartments.
posted by SandiBeech at 12:18 PM on November 3, 2010
Kyoto train station has a nice department store. If I'm remembering correctly, there was a floor devoted to stationery. And there were interesting foods underground.
When you take the train, buy one of the box lunches from a vendor. My goal was to have the most little compartments.
posted by SandiBeech at 12:18 PM on November 3, 2010
Take the train from Kyoto to Shiga. Ride it around the lake to Omi-Shiotsu, which is the northernmost stop. Hop off train. Hike around for awhile, the roads go back into the forests. You could also just make a day (it takes about 4 hours to do the lake loop, if I remember correclty) of riding around Lake Biwa and checking out random spots. (alternatively: ask local friends for suggestions on a similar trip using Kyoto as the hub point. lots of options)
I realise you're only there for ten days, but if you want something different, get out of the big cities for at least a small part of that.
posted by curious nu at 12:33 PM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
I realise you're only there for ten days, but if you want something different, get out of the big cities for at least a small part of that.
posted by curious nu at 12:33 PM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
Forgot to mention: Yogo/Lake Yogo is another cool spot to check out in Shiga.
posted by curious nu at 12:34 PM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
posted by curious nu at 12:34 PM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
Echoing curious nu... I used to live over the mountains from Yogo-ko in Tsuruga. Neat place. There is a nice hiking trail up Shizugatake Mountain. Also has a chair lift.
posted by KokuRyu at 12:40 PM on November 3, 2010
posted by KokuRyu at 12:40 PM on November 3, 2010
Go to a public bath. -> at Arima Onsen. It is a little town with lots of public baths. There are many tourists, but they are all Japanese. This place is so beautiful in the fall/winter.
posted by whatzit at 2:49 PM on November 3, 2010
posted by whatzit at 2:49 PM on November 3, 2010
If you like cats, go to a cat cafe. You get to play with cats and hang out with Japanese teenagers. It was one of the more memorable experiences of my trip.
If you're into food, we ate a lot at the restaurants in subterranean shopping malls in train stations -- many of which were surprisingly good. We also visited the restaurant supply/plastic food replica neighborhood in Tokyo (I forget the name). We spent HOURS there. You can also check out Elizabeth Andoh's website. She leads food-themed tours and classes periodically; I took one that was aimed at English-speakers living in Japan who couldn't navigate the fish sections of supermarkets. I learned more than I will ever need to know about ordering fish in Japan even though I speak no Japanese and was only there for 10 days.
My impression was that Tokyo in particular is a wonderland for anybody with a super specialized (or, ahem, nerdy) interest. If you like vintage video games, there are multi-story malls devoted solely to them. If you like French food, every French chef that's anybody has a restaurant or bakery in Tokyo. And on and on. You just need to do some research on whatever your obsession is so you know where to go.
posted by chummie26 at 7:35 PM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
If you're into food, we ate a lot at the restaurants in subterranean shopping malls in train stations -- many of which were surprisingly good. We also visited the restaurant supply/plastic food replica neighborhood in Tokyo (I forget the name). We spent HOURS there. You can also check out Elizabeth Andoh's website. She leads food-themed tours and classes periodically; I took one that was aimed at English-speakers living in Japan who couldn't navigate the fish sections of supermarkets. I learned more than I will ever need to know about ordering fish in Japan even though I speak no Japanese and was only there for 10 days.
My impression was that Tokyo in particular is a wonderland for anybody with a super specialized (or, ahem, nerdy) interest. If you like vintage video games, there are multi-story malls devoted solely to them. If you like French food, every French chef that's anybody has a restaurant or bakery in Tokyo. And on and on. You just need to do some research on whatever your obsession is so you know where to go.
posted by chummie26 at 7:35 PM on November 3, 2010 [1 favorite]
Find a native speaker and go to the nearest purikura. Guaranteed insane fun.
Try my 300 yen challenge. Walk into any convenience store and try to get a drink, a savoury snack and something sweet for 3 coins (sure, you need to add on the 15 yen tax, but 315 yen challenge doesn't have quite the same ring to it.) You'll end up checking out a lot of unique Japanese products in the process.
Try to find the antique shop/cafe on one of the narrow streets off the Terramachi street arcade section in Kyoto. Even if you don't find it, you'll see much more than the average tourist.
posted by Juso No Thankyou at 5:33 AM on November 4, 2010 [1 favorite]
Try my 300 yen challenge. Walk into any convenience store and try to get a drink, a savoury snack and something sweet for 3 coins (sure, you need to add on the 15 yen tax, but 315 yen challenge doesn't have quite the same ring to it.) You'll end up checking out a lot of unique Japanese products in the process.
Try to find the antique shop/cafe on one of the narrow streets off the Terramachi street arcade section in Kyoto. Even if you don't find it, you'll see much more than the average tourist.
posted by Juso No Thankyou at 5:33 AM on November 4, 2010 [1 favorite]
Taiyaki! Eat so much taiyaki! And whatever else they'll stuff with bean paste. Mmm, so good...
Also, the ridiculous amount of soft-serve ice cream flavors is kind of fun.
posted by StarmanDXE at 7:58 AM on November 4, 2010
Also, the ridiculous amount of soft-serve ice cream flavors is kind of fun.
posted by StarmanDXE at 7:58 AM on November 4, 2010
Or any ice cream. Go to a 31 Baskin-Robbins, and try the melon ice cream -- I've never see it in a stateside BR. Or get a Moningu waffle ice crem from in the frozen section of a kombini (convenience store).
posted by Rash at 11:03 AM on November 4, 2010
posted by Rash at 11:03 AM on November 4, 2010
The Tokyo Damage Report guide has a great list of bizarre Tokyo spots.
Don't miss going to a Don Quixote - there's one in just about every district of Tokyo and every other city. They're like an anime version of Wal-Mart, on a cocktail of bizarre drugs.
The restaurant supply/food replica street mentioned above is Kappabashidori, and is definitely worth a visit. It's fairly close to Asakusa so you could combine it with a trip to the famous temple there. Nishiki Market in Kyoto is also worth a wander.
Eat takoyaki in Osaka (the folks at Tako Tako King in Ame-mura were very friendly). Eat yakitori at Piss Alley in Shinjuku. Eat a baked potato wherever you come across someone selling a baked potato in the street. Actually, whenever you come across someone selling food on the street, buy some and eat it. Drink lots and lots of shochu.
And I don't know if it's worth spending your limited time in Tokyo on, but Namja Town in Ikebukuro was pretty trippy - a run-down amusement park at the top of a windowless skyscraper, with themed eating (Gyoza Stadium and Ice Cream City!).
posted by Gortuk at 4:25 PM on November 4, 2010
Don't miss going to a Don Quixote - there's one in just about every district of Tokyo and every other city. They're like an anime version of Wal-Mart, on a cocktail of bizarre drugs.
The restaurant supply/food replica street mentioned above is Kappabashidori, and is definitely worth a visit. It's fairly close to Asakusa so you could combine it with a trip to the famous temple there. Nishiki Market in Kyoto is also worth a wander.
Eat takoyaki in Osaka (the folks at Tako Tako King in Ame-mura were very friendly). Eat yakitori at Piss Alley in Shinjuku. Eat a baked potato wherever you come across someone selling a baked potato in the street. Actually, whenever you come across someone selling food on the street, buy some and eat it. Drink lots and lots of shochu.
And I don't know if it's worth spending your limited time in Tokyo on, but Namja Town in Ikebukuro was pretty trippy - a run-down amusement park at the top of a windowless skyscraper, with themed eating (Gyoza Stadium and Ice Cream City!).
posted by Gortuk at 4:25 PM on November 4, 2010
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posted by Maximian at 10:49 AM on November 3, 2010