where to go in transylvania
February 3, 2015 10:02 AM Subscribe
A friend and I have 10-11 days to spend in Transylvania in May, and would be grateful for any suggestions for the first 8 days (including detour up north to Maramures).
(The final 3 days are already spoken for -- 2 in Zarnesti and the last in Bucharest.)
We like natural scenery most, followed by light hikes/walks, good food, beautiful cities. In that order of priority. Wouldn't spend much time in small towns, e.g. Cesky Krumlov, even though they are pretty. I can drive but have no plans to rent a car since I hear the roads aren't terrific.
Itinerary might look a little packed, but we're trying to see as many places as we can within the short time. We're used to being on the move anyway. Here's what we currently have in mind:
Day 1-2. Brasov - thinking of skipping Bran castle
3. (after overnight sleeper train) Bucovina - various painted monasteries
4. Maramures
5. Cluj
6. Apuseni mountains
7. Alba Iulia + Sibiu
8. Sighisoara + Balea Lake
9-11. Zarnesti etc.
Are there places you've been to and liked -- or that you've heard are awesome -- that I've missed out on here? Mefi's previous recs have always been spot on for me, so I trust your taste. Or should we spend more time in certain places and cut out others?
Any feedback would be very appreciated. Thanks so much for your help!
(The final 3 days are already spoken for -- 2 in Zarnesti and the last in Bucharest.)
We like natural scenery most, followed by light hikes/walks, good food, beautiful cities. In that order of priority. Wouldn't spend much time in small towns, e.g. Cesky Krumlov, even though they are pretty. I can drive but have no plans to rent a car since I hear the roads aren't terrific.
Itinerary might look a little packed, but we're trying to see as many places as we can within the short time. We're used to being on the move anyway. Here's what we currently have in mind:
Day 1-2. Brasov - thinking of skipping Bran castle
3. (after overnight sleeper train) Bucovina - various painted monasteries
4. Maramures
5. Cluj
6. Apuseni mountains
7. Alba Iulia + Sibiu
8. Sighisoara + Balea Lake
9-11. Zarnesti etc.
Are there places you've been to and liked -- or that you've heard are awesome -- that I've missed out on here? Mefi's previous recs have always been spot on for me, so I trust your taste. Or should we spend more time in certain places and cut out others?
Any feedback would be very appreciated. Thanks so much for your help!
Where in Maramures are you going? It's a pretty big area and not well served by public transport. Are you taking the train? Make sure you're using cfr.ro and the bus websites to see what is realistic--for example, one of the most popular cities in Maramures is Sighet, and it is at least a five hour journey from Cluj from what I remember. To me this route sounds packed enough to be completely unenjoyable, but YMMV.
If you're willing to rent a car or hire a driver, the Transfagarasan is supposed to be amazing!
You can hike from Brasov up to the Brasov letters on the mountain. Almost any village in Buvovina or Maramures is going to be walkable and pretty--a friend and I basically hitched/walked all over the interesting parts of Maramures and it was lovely.
posted by chaiminda at 10:30 AM on February 3, 2015
If you're willing to rent a car or hire a driver, the Transfagarasan is supposed to be amazing!
You can hike from Brasov up to the Brasov letters on the mountain. Almost any village in Buvovina or Maramures is going to be walkable and pretty--a friend and I basically hitched/walked all over the interesting parts of Maramures and it was lovely.
posted by chaiminda at 10:30 AM on February 3, 2015
I used to live in Cluj in 1994-5. It's good to not be there too long if you're looking for outdoorsy stuff but it is a really interesting place. They have (I think) the oldest pharmacy in the country there, from the 1500s. Not a lot to look at there, but I'd stop by and see it if you're in town. The Ethnographic Museum is worth a looksee if you are interested in the cultural history of the area and the outdoor park will be open in May. The botanical garden is also a nice place to walkthrough. It was super weird when I was there, looks less weird now.
posted by jessamyn at 10:51 AM on February 3, 2015
posted by jessamyn at 10:51 AM on February 3, 2015
The environs of castles Peleș and Pelișor are very pretty, although the castles are more recent than their architectural styles would make you think (they were built between the late 19th C and the 1910s). Then again, the interior of Castle Bran was remodeled in the 1920s too.
I stayed two weeks in Târgu Mureș in 2004 and it has a nice citadel with a small archeological museum, but I'm not so sure it is worth a detour.
posted by sukeban at 11:31 AM on February 3, 2015
I stayed two weeks in Târgu Mureș in 2004 and it has a nice citadel with a small archeological museum, but I'm not so sure it is worth a detour.
posted by sukeban at 11:31 AM on February 3, 2015
Salt mine! Salt mine! I visited Unirea in Slanic when I was there about five years ago, but this one is nearer to Cluj and looks much nicer.
posted by theweasel at 12:38 PM on February 3, 2015
posted by theweasel at 12:38 PM on February 3, 2015
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(and read Patrick Leigh Fermor on the subject of Romania if you haven't already)
(and Wikipedia has reminded me there is a museum park of traditional rural buildings/folkways right near Bran castle that is also very pleasant)
posted by runincircles at 10:27 AM on February 3, 2015 [1 favorite]