Men's suits: timeless, classic, what styles are good?
April 22, 2013 9:48 AM Subscribe
I don't know a thing about menswear except that men sometimes wear it. My husband's one suit is finally done for, and he needs a new one by the end of the week. [He doesn't know much, either.] He wears a suit primarily for weddings and funerals, maybe once or twice a year. What style of suit will last him for years without becoming out-of-date?
I've been browsing the web and perusing old questions, honest, and I can't find anything quite like this. Feel free to point me to old questions if I missed them, or to good websites :)
~ ~ ~
We think a charcoal color will probably be appropriate for the rare formal occasions when he does need a suit. We're in Florida, I think his previous suits have been lightweight wool, and he'll probably go with that again. Unless there's a good reason not to?
So, what is he looking for in suit _styles_? What is classic and timeless? What would have been okay to wear 20 years ago and will still be okay to wear in 20 years?
I think there are different lapel styles, number and locations of buttons, number and styles of back vent.
Is there anything else to the suit coat that he should know about? Length of the coat? Length of the sleeves? Buttons or whatnot on the sleeves?
Are there different pants? Different kinds of pressed pleats, or sewn pleats, or anything?
Should he even consider 3-pc?
Obviously with this timeframe it will be off-the-rack and tailored if necessary, not custom.
~ ~ ~
And on this particular occasion, are there any shirt colors or styles, any tie colors or other concerns, that are most appropriate for a funeral? Anything else he should be aware of?
Thanks, all.
I've been browsing the web and perusing old questions, honest, and I can't find anything quite like this. Feel free to point me to old questions if I missed them, or to good websites :)
~ ~ ~
We think a charcoal color will probably be appropriate for the rare formal occasions when he does need a suit. We're in Florida, I think his previous suits have been lightweight wool, and he'll probably go with that again. Unless there's a good reason not to?
So, what is he looking for in suit _styles_? What is classic and timeless? What would have been okay to wear 20 years ago and will still be okay to wear in 20 years?
I think there are different lapel styles, number and locations of buttons, number and styles of back vent.
Is there anything else to the suit coat that he should know about? Length of the coat? Length of the sleeves? Buttons or whatnot on the sleeves?
Are there different pants? Different kinds of pressed pleats, or sewn pleats, or anything?
Should he even consider 3-pc?
Obviously with this timeframe it will be off-the-rack and tailored if necessary, not custom.
~ ~ ~
And on this particular occasion, are there any shirt colors or styles, any tie colors or other concerns, that are most appropriate for a funeral? Anything else he should be aware of?
Thanks, all.
Best answer: So, what is he looking for in suit _styles_? What is classic and timeless? What would have been okay to wear 20 years ago and will still be okay to wear in 20 years?
2.5" to 3" lapels. I am a big fan of thinner lapels, but the truth is that in 10 years, people will look at such a suit and say, "Oh, you bought that in the mid 2000s", just like the lapels from this suit scream, "this movie took place in the 1970s."
Notch lapels. Not because there's anything bad about peak lapels, but just because you can't go wrong with them.
Single vent or double vent are fine. Unvented, once again, brings attention to itself that for your only suit you don't want.
Is there anything else to the suit coat that he should know about? Length of the coat? Length of the sleeves? Buttons or whatnot on the sleeves?
Shorter coats are in style now, and while I don't find that distinctive, people who are older "notice" them because they find them unusual, since it's a sudden trend. A guide to "classic" lengths of the suit and sleeves can be found here. Sleeves should expose a little bit of the cuff of the dress shirt. If the sleeves are too long, the guy looks like a child wearing his father's suit.
Are there different pants? Different kinds of pressed pleats, or sewn pleats, or anything?
Basically you're going for pleated or unpleated (flat front). Flat front pants are "cleaner" and more form-fitting and stylish these days. But if you can't guarantee that someone will stay thin over the long term and want to account for comfort, single pleated pants are just fine. Have them cuffed at the hem.
Should he even consider 3-pc?
IMHO, there is nothing to be lost by having a vest you might want to wear if you feel inspired, but odds are it won't be used much, if at all.
posted by deanc at 9:58 AM on April 22, 2013 [2 favorites]
2.5" to 3" lapels. I am a big fan of thinner lapels, but the truth is that in 10 years, people will look at such a suit and say, "Oh, you bought that in the mid 2000s", just like the lapels from this suit scream, "this movie took place in the 1970s."
Notch lapels. Not because there's anything bad about peak lapels, but just because you can't go wrong with them.
Single vent or double vent are fine. Unvented, once again, brings attention to itself that for your only suit you don't want.
Is there anything else to the suit coat that he should know about? Length of the coat? Length of the sleeves? Buttons or whatnot on the sleeves?
Shorter coats are in style now, and while I don't find that distinctive, people who are older "notice" them because they find them unusual, since it's a sudden trend. A guide to "classic" lengths of the suit and sleeves can be found here. Sleeves should expose a little bit of the cuff of the dress shirt. If the sleeves are too long, the guy looks like a child wearing his father's suit.
Are there different pants? Different kinds of pressed pleats, or sewn pleats, or anything?
Basically you're going for pleated or unpleated (flat front). Flat front pants are "cleaner" and more form-fitting and stylish these days. But if you can't guarantee that someone will stay thin over the long term and want to account for comfort, single pleated pants are just fine. Have them cuffed at the hem.
Should he even consider 3-pc?
IMHO, there is nothing to be lost by having a vest you might want to wear if you feel inspired, but odds are it won't be used much, if at all.
posted by deanc at 9:58 AM on April 22, 2013 [2 favorites]
Best answer: The most "classic" options:
Charcoal, two-button, single vent, 3' notch lapels, non-pleated pants with a cuff. Sleeves should expose approximately a quarter-inch of the shirt's cuff.
Fit is most important. Get the suit tailored. And if you buy off the rack, make sure that the shoulders fit (because that's not really something a tailor can fix).
posted by ewiar at 10:05 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Charcoal, two-button, single vent, 3' notch lapels, non-pleated pants with a cuff. Sleeves should expose approximately a quarter-inch of the shirt's cuff.
Fit is most important. Get the suit tailored. And if you buy off the rack, make sure that the shoulders fit (because that's not really something a tailor can fix).
posted by ewiar at 10:05 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I should note that when you buy the suit, the BEST thing you can do is have it tailored, particularly at the waist and on the sleeves. With the sleeves, watch out for faux-buttonholes... as in stitching that looks like slits for buttonholes but aren't actually buttonholes... these sleeves can't be adjusted without moving around the buttons and misaligning them with the stitching. So find a suit whose jacket doesn't have that stitching on the sleeves so that the buttons can just be moved up without disrupting anything else.
posted by deanc at 10:07 AM on April 22, 2013
posted by deanc at 10:07 AM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: What would have been okay to wear 20 years ago and will still be okay to wear in 20 years?
Twenty years is an unrealistic time frame for a suit to be worn and presentable. Watch a movie from the late 1980s or early 1990s and notice the suits people wear. The basics remain the same, but there notable changes over time. Since you are probably going to a men's clothing store like Men's Wearhouse or Jos. A. Banks, the saleman there can answer all sorts of questions and assist with the length of the cuffs and so forth. However, here are some general remarks based upon my experience. I wear suits every day and as it happens, just met with my tailor last week so these matters are fresh in my mind.
Classic suit colors for men: black, gray (including charcoal), navy. I prefer a subtle texture to them like sharkskin or herringbone. Yes, the suit needs to be made out of wool - that point is not negotiable.
For jackets, a notch lapel will stand up well. Single-breasted, two buttons. I prefer two vents in the jacket.
For pants, I generally prefer cuffs with a mid-break. Flat-fronts seem to be pushing pleats to the side for now. People argue about the relationship between cuffs and pleats. That is a discussion your husband can have with the salesman. I always wear braces with my suits.
Even though you are buying off the rack, they will have it fitted to your husband. With your short time frame, you will probably need to pay a bit more for rush tailoring.
Three-piece is fine, although one does not see it very much these days. That is mostly going to be a cost-benefit choice for your husband.
A white, grey, or blue shirt would be fine for a funeral. I recommend shirts with no pockets and a tab collar, not a collar that buttons down. For ties, I prefer a half Windsor knot.
Lastly, I recommend that your husband wear the suit regularly even if he doesn't "have to". (a well-fitting suit should be comfortable, anyway). The reason is that it is easy to tell when someone at an event in playing dress-up. If your husband wears the suit regularly, he will become comfortable in it and look better wearing it as a consequence.
posted by Tanizaki at 10:15 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Twenty years is an unrealistic time frame for a suit to be worn and presentable. Watch a movie from the late 1980s or early 1990s and notice the suits people wear. The basics remain the same, but there notable changes over time. Since you are probably going to a men's clothing store like Men's Wearhouse or Jos. A. Banks, the saleman there can answer all sorts of questions and assist with the length of the cuffs and so forth. However, here are some general remarks based upon my experience. I wear suits every day and as it happens, just met with my tailor last week so these matters are fresh in my mind.
Classic suit colors for men: black, gray (including charcoal), navy. I prefer a subtle texture to them like sharkskin or herringbone. Yes, the suit needs to be made out of wool - that point is not negotiable.
For jackets, a notch lapel will stand up well. Single-breasted, two buttons. I prefer two vents in the jacket.
For pants, I generally prefer cuffs with a mid-break. Flat-fronts seem to be pushing pleats to the side for now. People argue about the relationship between cuffs and pleats. That is a discussion your husband can have with the salesman. I always wear braces with my suits.
Even though you are buying off the rack, they will have it fitted to your husband. With your short time frame, you will probably need to pay a bit more for rush tailoring.
Three-piece is fine, although one does not see it very much these days. That is mostly going to be a cost-benefit choice for your husband.
A white, grey, or blue shirt would be fine for a funeral. I recommend shirts with no pockets and a tab collar, not a collar that buttons down. For ties, I prefer a half Windsor knot.
Lastly, I recommend that your husband wear the suit regularly even if he doesn't "have to". (a well-fitting suit should be comfortable, anyway). The reason is that it is easy to tell when someone at an event in playing dress-up. If your husband wears the suit regularly, he will become comfortable in it and look better wearing it as a consequence.
posted by Tanizaki at 10:15 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Best answer: One thing to consider is that the "buy one new suit to last forever" mindset is not the only way to go about this — in the age of eBay, a decent used suit is so affordable that once you've figured out your basic sizes in a popular brand of off-the-rack suiting (e.g. Brooks Brothers, Jos A Bank) it's easily possible to change styles a lot more frequently without pushing your total cost above that of a single brand-new suit. You can easily keep getting a look that's a little out of date this way, but never remarkably, egregiously so.
But the basics are, as others in the thread have said, to get something that isn't too tied to the specific fashions of the moment (e.g. very narrow lapels) or a past moment (e.g. three-button jacket or big shoulder pads). Fortunately this is easy, because suits are conservative compared to other realms of fashion. Get a two-button jacket with a moderate-width lapel, plain-front pants or not-very-billowy pleated ones, and pick a conservative color (charcoal or navy) and pattern (plain, birds-eye weave, or a simple pinstripe) and you're good for the foreseeable future. Go for a fitting at a mass-market menswear retailer and take good note of your sizing, and then shopping used becomes a good possibility too — if you're only wearing it for an occasion every year or two, it's really hardly worth spending what a decent new suit costs.
posted by RogerB at 10:18 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
But the basics are, as others in the thread have said, to get something that isn't too tied to the specific fashions of the moment (e.g. very narrow lapels) or a past moment (e.g. three-button jacket or big shoulder pads). Fortunately this is easy, because suits are conservative compared to other realms of fashion. Get a two-button jacket with a moderate-width lapel, plain-front pants or not-very-billowy pleated ones, and pick a conservative color (charcoal or navy) and pattern (plain, birds-eye weave, or a simple pinstripe) and you're good for the foreseeable future. Go for a fitting at a mass-market menswear retailer and take good note of your sizing, and then shopping used becomes a good possibility too — if you're only wearing it for an occasion every year or two, it's really hardly worth spending what a decent new suit costs.
posted by RogerB at 10:18 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Really, if you need to acquire this by this weekend, you're going to be limited by what can be a) purchased and b) tailored by then. Not really the best situation to be in, but what have you.
I'd go with navy as a good all-round color (and if you pick the style right, you can use the jacket and pants as separates). Navy can be worn with brown or black belts and shoes which opens up the suit to more casual events. Lightweight wool is fine, maybe even a "tropical" wool if you can find it and are really going to be wearing it mostly in the south.
Wear a dress shirt when you're going to look at the suit. Shirt sleeves should peek out from beyond the jacket sleeves. The jacket should cover your butt. If the pants have pleats, they should be cuffed as well. Plain front trousers are more in vogue right now.
As for style, the "timeless" look would be 2 buttons, notch lapels, single vent in the back of the jacket. Double vent is fine, three-roll-two front is fine (that is, three buttons with the top button rolled down so that only the bottom two are usable). One button or four buttons is probably not fine, especially if this is going to be an only suit. Double breasted and peak lapels are not terribly popular right now, but I wouldn't necessarily discount them. Single breasted, notch lapel jackets are probably your best bet, though. I would not consider a three-piece, as the jacket will be cut a little fuller to accommodate the vest and will look a little funny without it. I can't see getting much use out of the
vest, either, if you're really only thinking about wearing the suit once or twice a year.
This may be helpful.
For a funeral, I'd go with a white "dress" shirt (as opposed to one with a button-down collar - not really appropriate for a suit). I would probably wear a darker-colored tie with a muted pattern; a stripe would be good, paisley probably less so. Black shoes and belt. White pocket square in a TV fold if you're feeling fancy.
Other concerns - don't wear white socks. Match your socks to either the shoe or the pant (so, for black shoes and a navy suit you can do either navy socks or black socks). If you're going to wear an undershirt, make sure it's white; for some reason I've been seeing guys wearing their athletic t-shirts under dress shirts and it's really obvious and tacky to see sports logos or a weird color showing through your shirt. Belts and shoes should match. I am anal enough to want to match metal colors on what I'm wearing (watch, belt buckle, whatever else), but I'm kind of anal retentive in general, so.
posted by backseatpilot at 10:47 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
I'd go with navy as a good all-round color (and if you pick the style right, you can use the jacket and pants as separates). Navy can be worn with brown or black belts and shoes which opens up the suit to more casual events. Lightweight wool is fine, maybe even a "tropical" wool if you can find it and are really going to be wearing it mostly in the south.
Wear a dress shirt when you're going to look at the suit. Shirt sleeves should peek out from beyond the jacket sleeves. The jacket should cover your butt. If the pants have pleats, they should be cuffed as well. Plain front trousers are more in vogue right now.
As for style, the "timeless" look would be 2 buttons, notch lapels, single vent in the back of the jacket. Double vent is fine, three-roll-two front is fine (that is, three buttons with the top button rolled down so that only the bottom two are usable). One button or four buttons is probably not fine, especially if this is going to be an only suit. Double breasted and peak lapels are not terribly popular right now, but I wouldn't necessarily discount them. Single breasted, notch lapel jackets are probably your best bet, though. I would not consider a three-piece, as the jacket will be cut a little fuller to accommodate the vest and will look a little funny without it. I can't see getting much use out of the
vest, either, if you're really only thinking about wearing the suit once or twice a year.
This may be helpful.
For a funeral, I'd go with a white "dress" shirt (as opposed to one with a button-down collar - not really appropriate for a suit). I would probably wear a darker-colored tie with a muted pattern; a stripe would be good, paisley probably less so. Black shoes and belt. White pocket square in a TV fold if you're feeling fancy.
Other concerns - don't wear white socks. Match your socks to either the shoe or the pant (so, for black shoes and a navy suit you can do either navy socks or black socks). If you're going to wear an undershirt, make sure it's white; for some reason I've been seeing guys wearing their athletic t-shirts under dress shirts and it's really obvious and tacky to see sports logos or a weird color showing through your shirt. Belts and shoes should match. I am anal enough to want to match metal colors on what I'm wearing (watch, belt buckle, whatever else), but I'm kind of anal retentive in general, so.
posted by backseatpilot at 10:47 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Most suits need to be tailored, so if you need it for this weekend, you're going to be SOL. Also, no suit style will last forever, not even decades. For an infrequent suit wearing person, buy an inexpensive, but decent quality one, every so often.
My recommendation is to buy a suit/separate from Macy's. (Sort the list Low to High for the bargains)
You need to do this tonight.
Then take it to the dry cleaner/tailor tomorrow morning for hemming.
That's it.
Get a coupon from Macy's to save 30% on the thing and don't spend the earth.
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 10:58 AM on April 22, 2013
My recommendation is to buy a suit/separate from Macy's. (Sort the list Low to High for the bargains)
You need to do this tonight.
Then take it to the dry cleaner/tailor tomorrow morning for hemming.
That's it.
Get a coupon from Macy's to save 30% on the thing and don't spend the earth.
posted by Ruthless Bunny at 10:58 AM on April 22, 2013
The problem with 'timeless classic' suits is that they are expensive, unless you go to the extreme of a $10,000 Savile row suit, they aren't going to last 20 years.
At the other end of the market the cheap suits seem to have a style that will look dated very quickly so you may end up only wearing them a few times.
You may find it works out cheaper to just hire one when needed. That way you can also pick something suitable for the occasion.
For funerals I do think it's worth investing in a good quality black tie, it will make you look 'dressed for a funeral' and not just someone who dropped by from the office. It's one fashion accessory that sadly, you will probably use more than you expect.
posted by Lanark at 11:17 AM on April 22, 2013
At the other end of the market the cheap suits seem to have a style that will look dated very quickly so you may end up only wearing them a few times.
You may find it works out cheaper to just hire one when needed. That way you can also pick something suitable for the occasion.
For funerals I do think it's worth investing in a good quality black tie, it will make you look 'dressed for a funeral' and not just someone who dropped by from the office. It's one fashion accessory that sadly, you will probably use more than you expect.
posted by Lanark at 11:17 AM on April 22, 2013
Instead of One suit try the old one jacket and two pairs of pants trick.. That way he can have a dressy look and a sportier look for more casual affairs. Adding a vest gives even greater options. check it out . The key word is Suit Separates.
posted by Gungho at 11:27 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
posted by Gungho at 11:27 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Classic suit colors for men: black, gray (including charcoal), navy. I prefer a subtle texture to them like sharkskin or herringbone. Yes, the suit needs to be made out of wool - that point is not negotiable.
Noooooooooooooo. Charcoal or navy, yes. Black, no, unless it's a tuxedo or you're an undertaker. Really, just go charcoal. It's the all-purpose suit.
We think a charcoal color will probably be appropriate for the rare formal occasions when he does need a suit. We're in Florida, I think his previous suits have been lightweight wool, and he'll probably go with that again. Unless there's a good reason not to?
Definitely wool; there is no other viable suit option unless you're looking for something for casual wear.
So, what is he looking for in suit _styles_? What is classic and timeless? What would have been okay to wear 20 years ago and will still be okay to wear in 20 years?
Medium lapels, 2.5-3" as mentioned above. Two buttons, notch lapels, single or double vent (but not no-vent).
Is there anything else to the suit coat that he should know about? Length of the coat? Length of the sleeves? Buttons or whatnot on the sleeves?
All sleeves should have buttons, but they don't need to be functional, and probably shouldn't be if it's off the rack (having functional buttons, aka surgeons' cuffs, make sleeve length alterations much more difficult and expensive because they have to be done at the shoulder).
Are there different pants? Different kinds of pressed pleats, or sewn pleats, or anything?
No pleats, period, but suit pants will have a crease pressed up the leg (which should end around the start of the zipper). The only real choice you have is cuff or no cuff. And for god's sake, make sure the pants aren't too long. Americans ALWAYS wear their pants too long.
If you want something pretty nice for a reasonable cost, you could do a lot worse than the J.Crew Ludlow. The jacket is half-canvassed, which isn't too common for a suit of that price, and they're way nicer than anything you'd find at Jos. A. Bank or Men's Wearhouse or etc. The lapels are 2.5", so on the narrower side, but that should be fine for a while—I don't see any swing back to wide lapels coming anytime soon, and the Ludlows are becoming fairly ubiquitous, so that width should have some staying power as "normal".
posted by The Michael The at 11:41 AM on April 22, 2013
Noooooooooooooo. Charcoal or navy, yes. Black, no, unless it's a tuxedo or you're an undertaker. Really, just go charcoal. It's the all-purpose suit.
We think a charcoal color will probably be appropriate for the rare formal occasions when he does need a suit. We're in Florida, I think his previous suits have been lightweight wool, and he'll probably go with that again. Unless there's a good reason not to?
Definitely wool; there is no other viable suit option unless you're looking for something for casual wear.
So, what is he looking for in suit _styles_? What is classic and timeless? What would have been okay to wear 20 years ago and will still be okay to wear in 20 years?
Medium lapels, 2.5-3" as mentioned above. Two buttons, notch lapels, single or double vent (but not no-vent).
Is there anything else to the suit coat that he should know about? Length of the coat? Length of the sleeves? Buttons or whatnot on the sleeves?
All sleeves should have buttons, but they don't need to be functional, and probably shouldn't be if it's off the rack (having functional buttons, aka surgeons' cuffs, make sleeve length alterations much more difficult and expensive because they have to be done at the shoulder).
Are there different pants? Different kinds of pressed pleats, or sewn pleats, or anything?
No pleats, period, but suit pants will have a crease pressed up the leg (which should end around the start of the zipper). The only real choice you have is cuff or no cuff. And for god's sake, make sure the pants aren't too long. Americans ALWAYS wear their pants too long.
If you want something pretty nice for a reasonable cost, you could do a lot worse than the J.Crew Ludlow. The jacket is half-canvassed, which isn't too common for a suit of that price, and they're way nicer than anything you'd find at Jos. A. Bank or Men's Wearhouse or etc. The lapels are 2.5", so on the narrower side, but that should be fine for a while—I don't see any swing back to wide lapels coming anytime soon, and the Ludlows are becoming fairly ubiquitous, so that width should have some staying power as "normal".
posted by The Michael The at 11:41 AM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: Watch a movie from the late 1980s or early 1990s and notice the suits people wear. The basics remain the same, but there notable changes over time.
Movies and fashion magazines contain people who are wearing suits specially-purchased to reflect the styles and trends of the time. I assure you that in the 1980s there were lots of people walking around out and about in the same suits they bought in the 1960s and 1970s.
Personally, I tend to find that an inexpensive suit (about $200), worn once every month or two, tends develop evidence of wear after 5 years. Higher quality suits last longer. But that might be to your benefit-- get a new inexpensive suit every 5 years, and you'll never look dated while also not spending a lot of money and your suit won't look worn out and old.
I agree with the others that have said that the accessories are going to be key, here: dress socks, nice (black) dress shoes, matching belt, a shirt that fits, and at least a few ties.
posted by deanc at 11:45 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Movies and fashion magazines contain people who are wearing suits specially-purchased to reflect the styles and trends of the time. I assure you that in the 1980s there were lots of people walking around out and about in the same suits they bought in the 1960s and 1970s.
Personally, I tend to find that an inexpensive suit (about $200), worn once every month or two, tends develop evidence of wear after 5 years. Higher quality suits last longer. But that might be to your benefit-- get a new inexpensive suit every 5 years, and you'll never look dated while also not spending a lot of money and your suit won't look worn out and old.
I agree with the others that have said that the accessories are going to be key, here: dress socks, nice (black) dress shoes, matching belt, a shirt that fits, and at least a few ties.
posted by deanc at 11:45 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Best answer: If you buy a three-piece make sure you clean all 3 pieces at the same time, even if he hasn't worn the vest. It'll keep all 3 pieces fading evenly.
posted by telophase at 12:03 PM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
posted by telophase at 12:03 PM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
I have a basic charcoal with light gray pinstripe suit. Got it at JC Penneys. They had a lot of stock on the rack with mix-&-match separates, and in my case, one-day turn around on alterations (hem on the pants). I've had it for a few years now and it's wearing well. It's classic, plain styling. Looks sharp but not cutting-edge style (which is what I desired).
I know JCP has been through a corporate makeover since then, so I'm not sure if they're still set up that way, but I was very happy with the result.
posted by Doohickie at 12:06 PM on April 22, 2013
I know JCP has been through a corporate makeover since then, so I'm not sure if they're still set up that way, but I was very happy with the result.
posted by Doohickie at 12:06 PM on April 22, 2013
Seconding the Ludlow. I've heard good things about that suit.
Charcoal, no black.
No pleats. Just say no to pleats.
posted by ablazingsaddle at 12:09 PM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Charcoal, no black.
No pleats. Just say no to pleats.
posted by ablazingsaddle at 12:09 PM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]
Best answer: I can't tell you how glad I am that I bought a three-piece, because I get so much more use out of my suit now. I frequently wear the vest without the jacket to nice dinners or cocktail parties that don't require a full suit, and even when I wear the full suit I still feel dressed up when everyone sheds the jacket at the end of the night.
Also, I recommend reading up on how to buy a suit for your husband's body shape, whatever it may be. It can vary quite a lot depending on if he is larger around the middle, very tall, etc.
And, if you don't feel comfortable with the salesperson, feel free to leave. There is a big difference between someone who genuinely wants to help you choose the right suit and someone who tells you they can tailor everything away so you buy something expensive and get out the door as quickly as possible.
posted by theuninvitedguest at 12:30 PM on April 22, 2013
Also, I recommend reading up on how to buy a suit for your husband's body shape, whatever it may be. It can vary quite a lot depending on if he is larger around the middle, very tall, etc.
And, if you don't feel comfortable with the salesperson, feel free to leave. There is a big difference between someone who genuinely wants to help you choose the right suit and someone who tells you they can tailor everything away so you buy something expensive and get out the door as quickly as possible.
posted by theuninvitedguest at 12:30 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: Classic and timeless means conservative. And so if you want to see what conservative suits look like, Brooks Brothers is a good place to start. Ignore their "Gatsby" line - even Brooks Brothers has some trendy going on - and look at their favorites. You may not want to buy there, they are well-respected and their prices reflect it, but it will give you a sense of what to look for.
My understanding is that a first suit "should" be charcoal grey, or maybe a very dark blue (never black, that's for tuxes and funeral directors), and should be either plain or have a very subtle stripe (one that isn't noticeable from 10-15 feet away). Two or three buttons depends more on your husband's build - three buttons if he's very tall - well over six feet - two buttons otherwise. Double breasted works only if he is very skinny, and should't be a first suit anyway. Single, double or no vents are a matter of taste, the only rule I know is that you want no vent if you have a large ass. Pleats is an odd one - up untl a few years ago you would always go with pleated pants - now they are frowned upon.
posted by rtimmel at 12:37 PM on April 22, 2013
My understanding is that a first suit "should" be charcoal grey, or maybe a very dark blue (never black, that's for tuxes and funeral directors), and should be either plain or have a very subtle stripe (one that isn't noticeable from 10-15 feet away). Two or three buttons depends more on your husband's build - three buttons if he's very tall - well over six feet - two buttons otherwise. Double breasted works only if he is very skinny, and should't be a first suit anyway. Single, double or no vents are a matter of taste, the only rule I know is that you want no vent if you have a large ass. Pleats is an odd one - up untl a few years ago you would always go with pleated pants - now they are frowned upon.
posted by rtimmel at 12:37 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: I assure you that in the 1980s there were lots of people walking around out and about in the same suits they bought in the 1960s and 1970s.
I am sure there were. I am also sure that none of them were fashion plates.
I find the undertaker comments against black suits baffling where the OP's question is about attire that will mostly just be worn at weddings and funerals. Beyond that, I certainly have a black suit in my office rotation. It's a great suit for playing with shirt and tie combinations.
posted by Tanizaki at 12:44 PM on April 22, 2013
I am sure there were. I am also sure that none of them were fashion plates.
I find the undertaker comments against black suits baffling where the OP's question is about attire that will mostly just be worn at weddings and funerals. Beyond that, I certainly have a black suit in my office rotation. It's a great suit for playing with shirt and tie combinations.
posted by Tanizaki at 12:44 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: I am sure there were. I am also sure that none of them were fashion plates.
The point being what you see in film and magazines is what you see when the latest fashion trends are being depicted: ie, they're depicting what people who bought a fashionable suit the day before the photo or the film was recorded, not what people in public were "actually" wearing.
The 1960s were not all full of people in mod suits, and the 70s did not have average people wearing suits with 4 or 5 inch lapels. For the most part, people were simply wearing the same suits they had always been wearing, likely chosen for their ability to blend in, regardless of what fashion trend was going on at any given time.
Brooks Brothers keeps on keepin' on. With few exceptions, the suits a Senator wore in the 1970s could easily be worn today without any change. (notable exception)
posted by deanc at 12:57 PM on April 22, 2013
The point being what you see in film and magazines is what you see when the latest fashion trends are being depicted: ie, they're depicting what people who bought a fashionable suit the day before the photo or the film was recorded, not what people in public were "actually" wearing.
The 1960s were not all full of people in mod suits, and the 70s did not have average people wearing suits with 4 or 5 inch lapels. For the most part, people were simply wearing the same suits they had always been wearing, likely chosen for their ability to blend in, regardless of what fashion trend was going on at any given time.
Brooks Brothers keeps on keepin' on. With few exceptions, the suits a Senator wore in the 1970s could easily be worn today without any change. (notable exception)
posted by deanc at 12:57 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: Put This On: What's Wrong With a Black Suit?
From MeFi's own Jesse Thorn.
posted by The Michael The at 1:01 PM on April 22, 2013
From MeFi's own Jesse Thorn.
posted by The Michael The at 1:01 PM on April 22, 2013
If you get to a nordstrom today or tomorrow, they will find you a classic suit and get it tailored by Friday. I just did this for myself (a woman) last week, and my husband did the same six months ago. They do their tailoring in house and I have been universally pleased. Sign up for their credit or debit card and alterations are free (some are free anyway). Their in house brands are reasonably priced. Watch out for the shirts and ties though, they can get pricy.
posted by dpx.mfx at 1:15 PM on April 22, 2013
posted by dpx.mfx at 1:15 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: Twenty years is an unrealistic time frame for a suit to be worn and presentable. Watch a movie from the late 1980s or early 1990s and notice the suits people wear.
I somewhat disagree with this, although it makes the point that costume design for something set 20 years in the past is harder than something set 200 years in the past, because you have to account for the people wearing the latest trend and the ones chugging along with their old suits. (Just as a film set in the 1970s ought to feature a fair few knackered 50s and 60s cars, which can be hard to find these days.)
I'm more for English cuts (and button preferences) than the Brooks Brothers standard, but charcoal, notched, medium lapels, flat front trousers, etc. will do the trick. Buy at least two pairs of trousers when you get the suit. Trousers are more likely to get torn or simply wear out than jackets, finding a match after the fact is going to be difficult even if the line of suit persists, and having a spare pair means that you don't have to sacrifice a jacket or relegate it to uncomfortable blazer status.
posted by holgate at 1:18 PM on April 22, 2013
I somewhat disagree with this, although it makes the point that costume design for something set 20 years in the past is harder than something set 200 years in the past, because you have to account for the people wearing the latest trend and the ones chugging along with their old suits. (Just as a film set in the 1970s ought to feature a fair few knackered 50s and 60s cars, which can be hard to find these days.)
I'm more for English cuts (and button preferences) than the Brooks Brothers standard, but charcoal, notched, medium lapels, flat front trousers, etc. will do the trick. Buy at least two pairs of trousers when you get the suit. Trousers are more likely to get torn or simply wear out than jackets, finding a match after the fact is going to be difficult even if the line of suit persists, and having a spare pair means that you don't have to sacrifice a jacket or relegate it to uncomfortable blazer status.
posted by holgate at 1:18 PM on April 22, 2013
Pinstripes: I smile when I see them because they remind me of the gangsters in old B&W movies. Like Edward G. Robinson starred in. The gang should zoom away from the heist/murder/arson in a black Buick sedan.
Chalk stripes? I do not smile, I wonder why anyone would buy such clothing.
posted by Cranberry at 1:21 PM on April 22, 2013
Chalk stripes? I do not smile, I wonder why anyone would buy such clothing.
posted by Cranberry at 1:21 PM on April 22, 2013
Response by poster: Oh yes, I agree; we're going to be restricted in what we can find, so we may not have much choice, and we're going tonight. If it turns out that tailoring can't be done for him by Friday, I *may* be able to do it myself. I don't have a machine that can do a blind hem stitch, though, and boy, I hate handstitching. Ah well, we all make sacrifices :)
Thanks for all the tips, folks. I've tried to collect them all. Here are my notes. Let me know if I got anything wrong?
Jacket:
* Single breasted
* 2 1/2" - 3" notched lapel
* 2 buttons
* Vent, one or two
* Classic length is longer than current fashion, should be about halfway between nape of neck and floor
* Make sure the shoulders fit pre-tailoring
* False buttonholes will make it hard to tailor the sleeves, but functional buttons will too
Pants:
There was a lot of talk on this, but the overall feeling seemed to be
* plain front or single pleats on the pants
* almost everyone said cuffed hems
Vest:
* If we have the opportunity, go for it; it can be worn in lieu of the coat at somewhat more casual events
* Get all three pieces cleaned at the same time to make sure they fade evenly together (nifty tip)
Miscellaneous:
* Wear a button-down shirt to try on the suit
* Belt and shoes should match, socks should not be white, any undershirt should not be visible
~ ~ ~
Quick questions:
To Gungho, who mentioned one coat and two pairs of pants for a dressier and a sportier look: what pants make dressy and what pants make sporty?
To Lanark, who mentioned a black tie: do you mean a literal tie that is black, worn with a suit that is not black? I've only seen "black tie" used to mean "formal, wear a tuxedo or evening gown."
posted by galadriel at 1:58 PM on April 22, 2013
Thanks for all the tips, folks. I've tried to collect them all. Here are my notes. Let me know if I got anything wrong?
Jacket:
* Single breasted
* 2 1/2" - 3" notched lapel
* 2 buttons
* Vent, one or two
* Classic length is longer than current fashion, should be about halfway between nape of neck and floor
* Make sure the shoulders fit pre-tailoring
* False buttonholes will make it hard to tailor the sleeves, but functional buttons will too
Pants:
There was a lot of talk on this, but the overall feeling seemed to be
* plain front or single pleats on the pants
* almost everyone said cuffed hems
Vest:
* If we have the opportunity, go for it; it can be worn in lieu of the coat at somewhat more casual events
* Get all three pieces cleaned at the same time to make sure they fade evenly together (nifty tip)
Miscellaneous:
* Wear a button-down shirt to try on the suit
* Belt and shoes should match, socks should not be white, any undershirt should not be visible
~ ~ ~
Quick questions:
To Gungho, who mentioned one coat and two pairs of pants for a dressier and a sportier look: what pants make dressy and what pants make sporty?
To Lanark, who mentioned a black tie: do you mean a literal tie that is black, worn with a suit that is not black? I've only seen "black tie" used to mean "formal, wear a tuxedo or evening gown."
posted by galadriel at 1:58 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: There is a lot of good advice above. I want to add, one thing to watch out for is a suit jacket that does not fit well at the nape of the neck. You do not want a bulge of fabric below the collar, between the shoulders.
posted by Multicellular Exothermic at 2:12 PM on April 22, 2013
posted by Multicellular Exothermic at 2:12 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: A note about cuffs: be aware that if your husband is short, cuffed trousers will make him look shorter. Otherwise they're pretty safe.
posted by thetortoise at 2:16 PM on April 22, 2013
posted by thetortoise at 2:16 PM on April 22, 2013
Best answer: I know it was mentioned, but to emphasize: hardly anything looks worse on a man than suit trousers that are excessively long. Make sure they're hemmed up properly. Yes, they will rise a bit when he sits. That is expected and part of the reason men wear dress socks.
posted by asciident at 2:49 PM on April 22, 2013
posted by asciident at 2:49 PM on April 22, 2013
Response by poster: Well, we went last night and we picked out a suit; they said they'd have the tailoring complete and ready to try on/pick up Thursday evening. (We're lucky; the sign said "Purchases made today will be altered May 3rd." Looks like they're willing to offer a no-charge rush job when the rush isn't really the customer's fault.)
I'm so sorry, folks, I disregarded some of your advice. He ended up with a suit with peaked lapels instead of notched. Everything else came in within the recommendations. (We didn't find a three-piece, but that's okay.)
But he looked HOT in that suit. We'll deal with it if it ends up looking outdated earlier than we hoped. The material, the color, the fit, oh man. He looks hot in that suit. It WILL be inappropriate to drape myself all over him the first time he wears it. Sigh. Excessively so.
posted by galadriel at 7:32 AM on April 23, 2013 [1 favorite]
I'm so sorry, folks, I disregarded some of your advice. He ended up with a suit with peaked lapels instead of notched. Everything else came in within the recommendations. (We didn't find a three-piece, but that's okay.)
But he looked HOT in that suit. We'll deal with it if it ends up looking outdated earlier than we hoped. The material, the color, the fit, oh man. He looks hot in that suit. It WILL be inappropriate to drape myself all over him the first time he wears it. Sigh. Excessively so.
posted by galadriel at 7:32 AM on April 23, 2013 [1 favorite]
Under miscellaneous:
You should not wear a button-down collar with a suit. Regular or spread collar. Socks should match pants.
posted by ewiar at 11:47 AM on April 23, 2013 [1 favorite]
You should not wear a button-down collar with a suit. Regular or spread collar. Socks should match pants.
posted by ewiar at 11:47 AM on April 23, 2013 [1 favorite]
Quick questions:
To Gungho, who mentioned one coat and two pairs of pants for a dressier and a sportier look: what pants make dressy and what pants make sporty?
Typically if the pants and coat are made from the same material that is a "suit". Coordinating a 2nd pant with or without a vest would be more "Business Casual". Since you won't be buying a Sport Coat the more casual look would work in cases where a Sport Coat would otherwise.
posted by Gungho at 1:33 PM on April 23, 2013
To Gungho, who mentioned one coat and two pairs of pants for a dressier and a sportier look: what pants make dressy and what pants make sporty?
Typically if the pants and coat are made from the same material that is a "suit". Coordinating a 2nd pant with or without a vest would be more "Business Casual". Since you won't be buying a Sport Coat the more casual look would work in cases where a Sport Coat would otherwise.
posted by Gungho at 1:33 PM on April 23, 2013
This thread is closed to new comments.
And we say: Mr. Chiefthe needs a dark suit for interviews. (Or a light suit for summer weddings.)
They then figure it all out, usually including shoes, ties, belt, shirts and the whole 9 yards. You can give them a guideline of what you want to spend, etc. And tell them everything you said above--that it shouldn't go out of style, material preference, color preference, what you will where it for, etc.
Mr. Chiefthe tries things on--I let him know if he looks good in the stuff. We pick something out, find out if it needs to be hemmed, etc. and are out of there in less than an hour. No muss. No fuss, and he looks great.
posted by chiefthe at 9:58 AM on April 22, 2013 [1 favorite]