Get me to the pic-a-nic on time
January 20, 2011 7:15 AM   Subscribe

Help me get to Yellowstone without a meltdown, on a budget, and with little time to spare. I'm special, of course, as I explain in great detail inside.

I’m planning a trip to Yellowstone later this year. I know what I want to do when I get there, but I’m less clear about how to get there in the first place.

I have about two weeks in the second half of September. I’d like to fly into San Francisco and spend a few days there first, then head to Yellowstone. I’d like to spend the best part of a week in the park. At some point, I obviously need to pick up a hire car, but where?

Driving the whole way seems like a colossal waste of time, not to mention a helluva long way to my European sensibilities. I’m guessing it would take at least a couple of days, each way, if not three or four?

Is it better to fly part-way there? And if so, how close can I get? Ideally, direct flights, but I'll change if I have to. Private airplanes are out of the question, of course, as, probably, are expensive small charters.

Can you do it by train, even?

I’d be willing to reconsider San Francisco if there’s a more logical place to start, but that in itself needs to be a nice touristy town with decent UK connections (and bonus points for coastal with a gay scene; Salt Lake City is not at the top of my list…)
posted by londonmark to Travel & Transportation (39 answers total)
 
It's a 15 hour drive from San Francisco to Yellowstone. It's only 11 from Seattle, or 13 from Portland, which are both great tourist cities. Alternatively, spend a couple of days in San Francisco and then fly to the airport nearest whichever part of the park you're planning to focus on, and rent a car there.

Or, by chance, did you mean Yosemite?
posted by amelioration at 7:22 AM on January 20, 2011


If you want to fly closer, Jackson Hole, WY, is quite close. I would guess you can find a reasonably-priced flight from San Francisco to Jackson Hole. Keep in mind, though, that the second half of September is a bit late for Yellowstone- there's a nonzero chance of significant snow by then.
posted by JMOZ at 7:27 AM on January 20, 2011


It would be a long drive (15+ hours straight). Yellowstone is pretty rural but it is ringed by small airports. You may be able to get direct flights but you certainly will be able to get a flight with a single connection through say Salt Lake City or Denver. The airports on that page that are farther away from Yellowstone service actual cities as well as people coming to see nature's grandeur so you will likely find more flight options and cheaper fares as well. However, flying into Jackson, WY would allow you to see the town of Jackson Hole (it's ski resort does even more business in summer for hikers) and travel up through Grand Teton National Park along your way to Yellowstone.

If money for flights is tight, Salt Lake City might be a good place to drive from after a flight from SF. SLC airport is big so there are lots of flights so that usually keeps costs down.
posted by mmascolino at 7:27 AM on January 20, 2011


If you really did mean Yellowstone (which a careful reread suggests to me that you did), you'd probably want to fly from San Francisco to Bozeman, MO.
posted by amelioration at 7:27 AM on January 20, 2011


Also wondering if you meant Yosemite. It is in California, and is only 4 hour drive from San Francisco.

Yellowstone is in Wyoming, so I'm not sure how that is related to San Francisco. That is like flying to Berlin to see the Eiffel Tower.
posted by I am the Walrus at 7:29 AM on January 20, 2011 [1 favorite]


I'm just throwing this out there, but my understanding is that Salt Lake City has a thriving gay scene. At least, that is what I heard from a close friend who worked there.

Others who know more will chime in, and there are probably more interesting cities in the region, but Salt Lake City is probably not the worst of the worst.
posted by vincele at 7:34 AM on January 20, 2011 [1 favorite]


It's a long drive from SF to Yellowstone, regardless of sensibility. From SF, Yosemite would make more sense.

Alternatively, consider flying into Billings, MT, and then driving into Yellowstone via the Beartooth Highway. I don't think Billings is the sort of town you'd most prefer, but it's close to Yellowstone, and the Beartooth is one of the most spectacular roads in the country.
posted by jon1270 at 7:34 AM on January 20, 2011 [2 favorites]


If you're looking for a big city that's much closer to Yellowstone than San Francisco and that's not SLC, there's always Denver, CO - there are direct flights daily from Denver to Bozeman, MO.

You're going to need to rent a car in Bozeman to get to the park itself. Rates are usually cheap enough that you can just park it at the entrance for the entire week you are hiking - at least that's what my friends do.
posted by muddgirl at 7:35 AM on January 20, 2011


And yes, SLC has an undeservedly bad reputation because it's in Utah. I've been to SLC several times and there seems to be a thriving liberal youth scene.
posted by muddgirl at 7:36 AM on January 20, 2011


Driving the whole damn way is, honestly, part of the experience. Put on some epic tunes, set the cruise control at something insane, and just *soar*. You want to head over to Salt Lake and drive up the west flank of the Wind Rivers and the valley east of the Tetons.

Another choice is to fly into Las Vegas, and head up I15. You can do a little Utah red rock on the way.

If you're on the interstate, you can do 70-75 (I 15 south of SLC the speed limit is 80). With proper caffeination and good tunes, a ten hour shot isn't bad. (I've done the north rim of the Grand Canyon to Glacier in a straight shot, so I may be crazy).
posted by notsnot at 7:37 AM on January 20, 2011


Also wanted to mention, by the end of Sept, most of the fall color is gone in the high country. If that's what you're looking for, you should plan to spend time in the Tetons. You could conceivably do this from Denver, and take two different routes there and back, and get some high-quality time with the fall color. If you decide to do this, shoot me a MeMail and I can help you hash out routes with max scenery.
posted by notsnot at 7:44 AM on January 20, 2011


Response by poster: Thanks guys. Just to clarify, it is indeed Yellowstone I'm talking about. I understand the Berlin/Eiffel Tower analogy, but we're not talking about the convenience of major European cities here. International flights don't get you that close to Yellowstone, it's in the middle of nowhere. I like that, it's part of the attraction, but I have to arrive in the States somewhere. San Francisco is my current choice because it is somewhere I've always wanted to visit and it would be nice to kill two birds. So suggestions of Jackson Hole and Bozeman are exactly what I'm hoping for, and will help me to narrow down my itinerary, thanks.
posted by londonmark at 7:45 AM on January 20, 2011


I went to Yellowstone last winter. Flew to Bozeman, got a car there, drove to the park via the North Gate, near Gardiner. It's not a long drive and it's quite scenic on a nice day.
posted by Kadin2048 at 7:46 AM on January 20, 2011


If the point is not to take a great American road trip (which it doesn't sound like it is), then the drive is a bit too long given the time you have. If you care to change your plans, it would be an amazing drive, but that might be fodder for another askme.

Your best choice is to fly into Salt Lake, which you can do nonstop from San Fran on several airlines. The drive from there is about 5.5 hours.

Another option is to fly into Bozeman, MT, but you'll have to connect in Salt Lake anyway. Rental cars will be cheaper per day in a larger city; cars in Bozeman are regularly $30+ dollars a day - smaller airport = fewer options = more $. You could, as some have mentioned, fly into Billings or even Great Falls or Helena, but there's no good reason to in my opinion. Still small airports, farther from Yellowstone, and really nothing to be gained except an extra flight or two a day.

Perhaps book your inbound ticket to San Fran, and your outbound (to the UK) from Salt Lake. Saves an extra day of travel back to San Fran, but it might be more expensive.

You can indeed take the train from Oakland to Salt Lake, but I think you'd be dismayed by the experience. Trains in this country pale greatly in comparison to European train service. A quick check says the ticket would cost you around $80 in coach, but it will take almost 17 hours (and it didn't look like there was an option for a sleeper).

This is my old neck of the woods. I grew up in Bozeman and spent many a summer going back and forth to Yellowstone (I even learned how to fly fish on the Yellowstone River). We used to take anyone that came to stay with us, and it was always a favorite of my German relatives - they still talk about our trips there, 25 years later. Even if it seems a bit difficult to get to, I promise you - it will be well worth it.
posted by East Siberian patchbelly wrangler at 7:47 AM on January 20, 2011


Billings is closer to Yellowstone, and while it's a small Western city, it's not without its appeal. Jackson Hole is a rich tourist town, and is priced accordingly.

But I'd fly to Vegas, which is always entertaining for a day, and drive the rest of the way.
posted by Ideefixe at 7:48 AM on January 20, 2011


Be sure to check out the Yellowstone schedule of approximate closing dates for some of its facilities, since they begin powering down the place throughout September. Also, bring some warm clothing because it'll be very cold at night and in the mornings (and one of the things to do in Yellowstone is to go out early to see the wildlife that might not be out during the day).
posted by aught at 7:57 AM on January 20, 2011


Another vote for Jackson Hole or Salt Lake City. Jackson has the benefit of allowing you to go through the Tetons, which are fabulous, but watch the weather because you could hit some significant snow that late in the season. SLC has the benefit of a huge international airport, cheaper car rentals, etc.

SLC is a regular metro area that has more non-Mormons than Mormons. There is indeed a thriving gay scene, and it seems very active/vocal in the face of Utah's reputation. If you do end up flying in/through, check out City Weekly or SLUG for alt events, or the SLC gaycities page for info on the gay scene. While you might not ever want to relocate here, Utah's reputation shouldn't affect your decision about how to best get to Yellowstone. For a fly or drive-through, think of it like any other moderately sized metro area.
posted by BlooPen at 8:02 AM on January 20, 2011


Here's a sample driving-only itinerary. Our vacation last summer (Flickr map) involved driving from the San Francisco area to Yellowstone. We stayed overnight in Winnemucca, Nevada, stopped for a picnic lunch the next day at the Bonneville Salt Flats, stopped at Saltair to see the Great Salt Lake, then went north and stayed overnight in Idaho Falls. It was then a rather quick drive over to Jackson, Wyoming, where we stayed overnight. We then visited the Grand Teton National Park (which may be a bit more dramatic than Yellowstone) and drove up to Yellowstone from there. We stayed overnight in the park. We exited the park from the northwest exit so we could go over Beartooth Pass (which is incredible), and then went down to Cody, Wyoming, where we stayed with family. On the way back, we went south to hook up to I-80 through some of the sparsest land and loneliest roads we've ever seen. It was a long day of driving to Salt Lake City, where we stayed. We then went back through Nevada on US-50 (the so-called loneliest road in America), passing through sleepy little towns like Eureka. It was an even longer day of driving as we came back home.
posted by zsazsa at 8:29 AM on January 20, 2011 [2 favorites]


I also got to Yellowstone via the Bozeman airport. It was very convenient, and there is a lot of naturey stuff to see and do around Bozeman as well.
posted by something something at 8:39 AM on January 20, 2011


Two weeks is a lot of time for this. You'll be able to do whatever you want really. It's hard to offer an itinerary without knowing what you're really looking to do.
I would fly into San Francisco and spend some time there. Then, fly from SFO to SLC and rent your car.
You could do some rock climbing or whatever in SLC. Definitely go out to the Bonneville Salt Flats if you end up going to SLC. and then drive from SLC through Grand Tetons to Jackson Hole to Yellow Stone.
posted by zephyr_words at 8:41 AM on January 20, 2011


As folks above have noted, Yellowstone is not surrounded by international airports. SLC has a non-stop flight to Charles de Gaulle, but no UK service. If you really want to fly somewhere non-stop from the UK, spend a few days there, and then drive to Yellowstone, your best options are Denver (11.5 hours by road), Seattle (12 hours), or Las Vegas (12 hours). Calgary (10 hours) is closer than any of these and has non-stop service to Heathrow, but taking a rented car across the U.S.-Canada border can be fraught; be absolutely sure to check with the rental agency that you can do this before deciding to base yourself there.

Honestly, though, your best bet is probably to do "nested flights": a couple of days in San Francisco/Seattle, fly to Bozeman or Jackson Hole, rent a car there, fly back to SF/Seattle, spend a couple of more days there, and then fly back to Blighty.
posted by Johnny Assay at 8:51 AM on January 20, 2011


Having lived and worked in the tourist industry in Jackson Hole through 2 summer seasons (and having relatives who live there full time) I can't deny my bias, but I would really recommend going through Jackson. The town is perched right at the southern gate of Grand Teton National Park, which you pretty much have to drive through to get to Yellowstone. You'll be treated to gorgeous views -- including as you fly into the airport. Jackson also has a busy tourist industry so there are tourist-oriented activities, plus the restaurant scene is excellent - there are many first-class restaurants, as well as high-quality places lower in the price scale.

I would also second and third the weather/warmth concerns others have raised earlier. It will start getting cold quickly that time of year -- you may even want to shift your itinerary so you land in SF and head straight for Yellowstone, and leave your SF touristing to the second half of your trip.

Also, be prepared for adjusting to altitude, especially if you're arriving in the Yellowstone area by plane, and not gradually by car. It shouldn't lay you low, but you may tire more quickly in the first days, and you'll certainly need more hydration at first, until you adjust. Some people also get headaches from the change.

Enjoy your trip!
posted by leticia at 8:56 AM on January 20, 2011 [2 favorites]


ps, I also forgot to mention Idaho Falls as a possible airport, but it's really not as great an option as any of the others. It's 90 minutes away from Jackson. You'd be better off at an airport at one of the gateways to the park, or SLC or Denver.
posted by leticia at 8:58 AM on January 20, 2011


As someone who didn't get out to the American West until my 30s, I wouldn't automatically rule out driving. Those long, empty, hallucinatory stretches of highway, with whole industries of lonely gas stations and motels geared to drivers, and strange snake-handler preaching on the radio, are something you don't get in Europe and can be a great experience in itself. Driving through Utah and Idaho can literally take your breath away.

You have a lot of time. (A week is long for Yosemite, in my book, but then I'm no nature girl. I was happy with two days in the park.)
posted by CunningLinguist at 9:07 AM on January 20, 2011 [1 favorite]


Yosemite = Yellowstone. Sorry. D'oh.
posted by CunningLinguist at 9:08 AM on January 20, 2011


I work up in Yellowstone and go there a few times a year.

From San Francisco you should fly to Bozeman, MT. It may require a change over at some airport since I don't think there are direct flight. Bozeman is a super tiny airport. There you can rent a car and it is an easy drive to the park. It is an easy, comfortable two hour drive.

The park has numerous camp grounds where you can car camp rather easily. If you want to memail me with further questions, please feel free to do so. Depending on what you want to do/see, I can tell you where in the park (and outside the park) to go.
posted by special-k at 9:12 AM on January 20, 2011


PS: I live near SF and regularly take this trip so this really is the quickest and most economical way to get to Yellowstone. I don't recommend driving when all you have is two weeks.

People have suggested various airports that don't make much sense. It's not practical to fly to Billings. Flying to Salt Lake or Vegas also makes little sense because you want to spend time in SF and flying to one of these other cities doesn't get you that much closer (in terms of flying time) to Yellowstone.

Book a car rental along with your flight to Bozeman so you get a good deal. Even though it is a small airport, there are plenty of rental options. The drive itself is quite easy, even if you have never driven in the US before. Paradise Valley is quite beautiful and scenic.

Another though that occurred is that you may want to stock up on essentials (energy bars, fluids and such) in Bozeman before you hit the road. The Bozeman coop is a great place to grab food. As you get closer, options will dwindle and things will get more expensive.
posted by special-k at 9:33 AM on January 20, 2011


Last time I went to Yellowstone we flew into Billings and rented a car, did a 3 day car tour around Montana. Quite a bit to see if you know what you are looking for, then we drove to Yellowstone and toured across the park for a week, spend a night in Red-lodge right next to Yellowstone, then drove back up into Montana to stay at a Bed and Breakfast on a ranch my grandfather grew up on. If you do stop by Billings, drive up on the rim rocks to a place called Yellowstone Kelly, its a wonderful scenic overlook that has been renovated in the last few years.

PM me or post if you have any questions about things to do or see in Montana.
posted by token-ring at 9:56 AM on January 20, 2011


Just to give you another option to fly to from Europe: there are direct flights to both Jackson Hole and Bozeman from O'Hare.
posted by kickingtheground at 9:58 AM on January 20, 2011


As someone that lived in Europe for about ten years and now lives in Los Angeles, if you're looking for a touristy town comparable to San Francisco, Portland and SLC are definitely not it. Seattle is great, but you may not want to get rained on.

SLC is awesome though, if you want to check out the national parks there.
posted by Everydayville at 10:11 AM on January 20, 2011


Everything special-k said +1. Savages Ho!
posted by RolandOfEld at 10:28 AM on January 20, 2011


I went to Yellowstone the summer before last and ohmygosh it was fantastic. We went from one of the London airports into Chicago, then to Jackson Hole, where we rented a car and stayed for about five days; then we drove to Yellowstone, stayed in Mammoth for another five days, then drove back to Jackson, returned the car, and flew back to Britain via Denver.

The funny thing was, I was all excited about Yellowstone and all (and Yellowstone was completely amazing), but some of my favourite moments were in the Tetons - we loved them so much we drove back a little early so we could fit in one last Teton hike. I'd definitely recommend taking in the Tetons too, especially if you do fly into Jackson Hole - we found more than enough to do in five days there (but then we are relatively outdoorsy, and more than averagely nature-y!). I agree with leticia too that Jackson Hole itself is pretty cool - you are right on the edge of the Tetons, and although we were too tired from getting up super early to do much in the evenings, there was plenty to do there. (Just the supermarkets were entertaining enough for me - I'd never been to an American supermarket before and spent ages just staring at the ice-cream cakes...)

It was the best trip EVER and I am getting awfully nostalgic just thinking about it. You will have a fantastic time!
posted by raspberry-ripple at 11:12 AM on January 20, 2011


I think it would be wise to go to Yellowstone before spending time in San Francisco, for weather reasons. You can go by train, but not on a tight schedule, like a connecting flight the same day or something. I would only take the train if you can afford a sleeper- the chairs are as fun to sleep in as an airplane, and you get better food service with the sleeper (dining room versus cafe car).

You can indeed take the train from Oakland to Salt Lake, but I think you'd be dismayed by the experience. Trains in this country pale greatly in comparison to European train service.

I have English friends who took the train from Emeryville to Chicago and quite enjoyed it. What's difficult about Amtrak is its frequent displacement by freight trains, making it often very late. Service on the train itself is totally fine, no worse than the Czech sleeper I took from Poland to Prague, and quite a bit cleaner. Plus the scenery is amazing.
posted by oneirodynia at 1:56 PM on January 20, 2011


NOTE: The abbreviation for Montana is MT. MO is Missouri.

Also, road trips through the States are gorgeous in fall.

Plan for REALLY COLD WEATHER. I've camped in Yellowstone in August, and it gets coooold in the morning.
posted by Heretical at 4:19 PM on January 20, 2011


I lived in Bozeman for 4 years. I have driven from San Francisco to Bozeman (well, I was a passenger, but whatever). It's beautiful. Really and truly beautiful. You will not forget it. It took us 3 days, but we were kind of ambling along. Make sure you keep the car filled up with gas, and have snacks on hand, because you'll pass through some really remote areas.

Bozeman is remarkably tolerant for Montana. There aren't any gay bars per se, but they have drag shows on a semi-regular basis. I think most of the GLBT people I knew have moved away, but if you want I can find out what's happening when it gets (much) closer to September. It's a university town, and school will have started, so there's bound to be something going on.

Like others said, you can get a flight from Denver to Bozeman. Counter-intuitively, try to book a small plane. It flies low, directly over the Grand Tetons and Yellowstone, and my flight at sunset was one of the more memorable experiences of my life. However, if you've never been to San Francisco, then you absolutely must go. It's the best city in the US by far. Forget I even mentioned Denver.

No trains go near Yellowstone, sorry. That would take you FOREVER in any case (but it'd be awesomely beautiful).

If you plan to go hiking or camping, read up on bear safety. Seriously.
posted by desjardins at 7:19 PM on January 20, 2011


Response by poster: Thank you all so much for your advice, it's making me wish I had a lot more time to fit everything in.

Based on what a lot of you have pointed out about the weather, I'm going to bring the date forward to early September and put the Yellowstone leg first. I read that the crowds don't thin out until after Labor Day, which was why I planned it later. Do you think early September will be ok weather-wise? I'm prepared for it to be cold, but would rather avoid getting snowed in :)

I haven't decided whether to fly into Salt Lake City or somewhere closer yet (Billings and Jackson both sound fantastic), but will definitely build some time in for Grand Teton. And I now quite like the idea of driving all the way to SF afterwards - perhaps with a stop-over - even if it means a day less there.
posted by londonmark at 12:59 AM on January 21, 2011


If you're going to do that long drive, spend some time now thinking about where you'll stay along the way. The middle part of the route between Yellowstone and SF will be in the Middle of Nowhere, Nevada. There are a only handful of small towns along Interstate 80 until you reach the NV/CA border and the Reno / Lake Tahoe area, and going that far would make for a loooong day's drive. Elko and Winnemucca look like decent candidates for a stopover. Crossing the Sierra Nevada mountains and down into California is beautiful, and best done when you're not exhausted.
posted by jon1270 at 6:10 AM on January 21, 2011


Billings? Billings? Oh dear God WHY? Seriously, it has no redeeming qualities. It's an ugly, poor city that's not made for tourism. It's quite a drive to Yellowstone and the drive isn't interesting for the first half. Do not pay money to go to Billings. It's somewhere you go only if you have to, like your car broke down or your dying grandmother lives there.

jon1270 is correct about Nevada being a bunch of nothingness. When I went, we drove from San Francisco through the Sierra Nevada mountains, past Tahoe and into NV. Stayed in Winnemucca the first night (no redeeming qualities) and Idaho Falls the second night, although we could have made it to Jackson.

The first part of September is usually OK, but snow is always possible in the mountains. I've seen it snow in July. I'd hedge your bets and get an all wheel drive. You really don't want to get stuck. If you haven't been to the west before, I don't think you can appreciate the expanse and relative emptiness of it.

If I were you, I'd do it this way: UK > Denver (or Minneapolis) > Bozeman. Rent car. Stay the night. Drive to Yellowstone. Spend X days. Drive through Tetons (or if extra time, go northeast through the Beartooths up to Red Lodge & back). Drive to Salt Lake City (see aforementioned gay scene). Drive to Tahoe (again, nothing redeeming in Nevada). Spend a day. Drive to San Francisco. Return car - you do not need a car in San Francisco and it will be a hindrance. Spend X days. Fly home.

/jealous
posted by desjardins at 9:37 AM on January 21, 2011


The first part of September is usually OK, but snow is always possible in the mountains. I've seen it snow in July. I'd hedge your bets and get an all wheel drive. You really don't want to get stuck. If you haven't been to the west before, I don't think you can appreciate the expanse and relative emptiness of it.

Yes, please pay attention to this. I drive an all wheel drive (but I had pretty shitty tires at that time) and once got caught in a totally unexpected snowstorm near Winnemucca. I nearly died in a head on collision with a semi.

Also seconding everything desjardins said. Billings is a shit hole. If you are doing SF afterwards then flying to Denver seems like a great idea.
posted by special-k at 9:44 AM on January 21, 2011


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