Help Me Plan My Yellowstone Trip!
April 21, 2010 11:27 AM Subscribe
I'm a few weeks from a big solo road trip to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons. I would love some answers from MeFites on a few questions related to routes, destinations, food, camping alone, bears, etc.!
I am so excited for my road trip to Yellowstone/Grand Tetons over the first two weeks of June 2010. Anything I should consider as I enter final trip preparations?
I am 32, female, traveling alone. I am trying to keep to a tight budget.
General Route & Highlights I Don't Want to Miss:
- Northwest through Missouri to Lincoln area, and then west on Route 2 through the Nebraska sand hills
- Northwest through the Black Hills to Devils Tower, Wyoming
- Northwest to Billings and west to Bozeman and Helena
- A day trip through the Bitterroot Valley and possibly a circular route through Idaho
- Beartooth Highway
- Missouri Headwaters State Park
- One night at Mammoth Hot Springs (in Yellowstone, already booked)
- Two nights at Canyon Lodge (in Yellowstone, already booked)
- One night at Old Faithful (in Yellowstone, already booked)
- Two nights at Colter Bay (in Grand Tetons, already booked)
- East through Wyoming, possibly a stop at the hot springs in Thermopolis
- Southeast to Casper and Cheyenne, then Scottsbluff
- East along I-80 through Nebraska and home to mid-Missouri
This is mostly what I want to do. I have about ten days, and I'm booked in Yellowstone over the weekend in the middle (though I will spend more time getting there than getting home; the trip home will be mostly fast and direct).
Points to Consider:
- My primary goal for the trip is photography, especially landscape. I have plenty o' equipment and I have picked up several photography guides to Yellowstone/Grand Tetons. I'm knowledgeable on general photography topics and don't need too many general pointers, but specifics would be great.
- Anything particular that I should see,for sure, don't miss it? Specifically in Wyoming or Montana. I have seen many South Dakota sights (Badlands, Mt Rushmore), and I hope to leave Glacier NP for another trip rather than stuff it in here. I don't like touristy stuff unless park-related and impossible to avoid. I will go out of my way for interesting land formations, beautiful landscape, waterfalls, state and national parks, etc.
- I am vegetarian. I plan to picnic most of the way (peanut butter sandwiches, soy jerky, LaraBars, fruit, etc.), but I will make an exception for really great vegetarian food! Anything come to mind along this route?
- I am not an experienced camper. I have lodging booked inside the park but nothing else, and I'm hoping to be a little spontaneous here. I am willing to camp along the way if you have suggestions for cheap and safe campgrounds along my route. (I have a tent, cot, and sleeping bag.) I don't require anything close to luxury, but I'm just a little nervous because of inexperience. I would love to camp though!
- I'm an experienced long-distance driver and I am really looking forward to it. I have a Honda Civic Hybrid (so I will have to stay on the good roads inside parks) that is in good shape.
- I like hiking, but I prefer short-distance hikes with a photography payoff (waterfall, etc.) at the end. I have completely spooked myself with bear attack stories. Anything I should definitely put on the list?
Any other thoughts? Comments?
I am so excited for my road trip to Yellowstone/Grand Tetons over the first two weeks of June 2010. Anything I should consider as I enter final trip preparations?
I am 32, female, traveling alone. I am trying to keep to a tight budget.
General Route & Highlights I Don't Want to Miss:
- Northwest through Missouri to Lincoln area, and then west on Route 2 through the Nebraska sand hills
- Northwest through the Black Hills to Devils Tower, Wyoming
- Northwest to Billings and west to Bozeman and Helena
- A day trip through the Bitterroot Valley and possibly a circular route through Idaho
- Beartooth Highway
- Missouri Headwaters State Park
- One night at Mammoth Hot Springs (in Yellowstone, already booked)
- Two nights at Canyon Lodge (in Yellowstone, already booked)
- One night at Old Faithful (in Yellowstone, already booked)
- Two nights at Colter Bay (in Grand Tetons, already booked)
- East through Wyoming, possibly a stop at the hot springs in Thermopolis
- Southeast to Casper and Cheyenne, then Scottsbluff
- East along I-80 through Nebraska and home to mid-Missouri
This is mostly what I want to do. I have about ten days, and I'm booked in Yellowstone over the weekend in the middle (though I will spend more time getting there than getting home; the trip home will be mostly fast and direct).
Points to Consider:
- My primary goal for the trip is photography, especially landscape. I have plenty o' equipment and I have picked up several photography guides to Yellowstone/Grand Tetons. I'm knowledgeable on general photography topics and don't need too many general pointers, but specifics would be great.
- Anything particular that I should see,for sure, don't miss it? Specifically in Wyoming or Montana. I have seen many South Dakota sights (Badlands, Mt Rushmore), and I hope to leave Glacier NP for another trip rather than stuff it in here. I don't like touristy stuff unless park-related and impossible to avoid. I will go out of my way for interesting land formations, beautiful landscape, waterfalls, state and national parks, etc.
- I am vegetarian. I plan to picnic most of the way (peanut butter sandwiches, soy jerky, LaraBars, fruit, etc.), but I will make an exception for really great vegetarian food! Anything come to mind along this route?
- I am not an experienced camper. I have lodging booked inside the park but nothing else, and I'm hoping to be a little spontaneous here. I am willing to camp along the way if you have suggestions for cheap and safe campgrounds along my route. (I have a tent, cot, and sleeping bag.) I don't require anything close to luxury, but I'm just a little nervous because of inexperience. I would love to camp though!
- I'm an experienced long-distance driver and I am really looking forward to it. I have a Honda Civic Hybrid (so I will have to stay on the good roads inside parks) that is in good shape.
- I like hiking, but I prefer short-distance hikes with a photography payoff (waterfall, etc.) at the end. I have completely spooked myself with bear attack stories. Anything I should definitely put on the list?
Any other thoughts? Comments?
Dress in layers. Weather can be warm or cold, and change quickly.
Devils Tower isn't too far off I-90 in NE Wyoming.
Have a blast!
posted by lukemeister at 11:50 AM on April 21, 2010
Devils Tower isn't too far off I-90 in NE Wyoming.
Have a blast!
posted by lukemeister at 11:50 AM on April 21, 2010
Oops, you already said Devils Tower.
posted by lukemeister at 11:52 AM on April 21, 2010
posted by lukemeister at 11:52 AM on April 21, 2010
Remember your headlamp . . . remember your headlamp . . . remember your headlamp
Repeat until you pull out of the driveway.
posted by Think_Long at 11:53 AM on April 21, 2010 [1 favorite]
Repeat until you pull out of the driveway.
posted by Think_Long at 11:53 AM on April 21, 2010 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: I'm not booked to camp in Yellowstone- I'm booked for regular lodging in Yellowstone, because I was concerned with the possibility of blizzards. Everybody says that there's a possibility for snow at that time of year at that altitude. So I'm looking for camping ideas on the route to and from, but not in, Yellowstone.
Why do I want a headlamp?
posted by aabbbiee at 11:57 AM on April 21, 2010
Why do I want a headlamp?
posted by aabbbiee at 11:57 AM on April 21, 2010
Definitely bring warn clothes. I was camping in the Tetons over a July 4 weekend and we learned the hard way that the camper's propane gauge was stuck on 1/2. It was empty, and it was damn cold that night.
posted by COD at 11:58 AM on April 21, 2010
posted by COD at 11:58 AM on April 21, 2010
Sounds like an amazing trip plan! It's similar to the one I took with my husband three summers ago. I'm a photographer, too.
I would avoid camping in that area unless you're an experienced camper and have the proper gear. Weather changes fast out there, lots of June nights go down to close to freezing and bears can be an issue.
In Yellowstone:
I thought the Midway Geyser Basin was beautiful for photography. There is a trail that leads you up a hillside behind Grand Prismatic (maybe a mile each way). It's the best place to get views overlooking the area. On a sunny day, the colors are breathtaking. They dull out under cloudy skies.
If you're willing to get up early, try driving through the Lamar Valley. It's breathtaking at dawn. We saw so much wildlife there - everything from wolves to pronghorns. The area is also gorgeous for landscape shooting. We saw a grizzly sow with cubs several times on Mt. Washburn. Hayden Valley is also very photogenic.
In Grand Teton:
Don't miss the Gros Ventre area! It was spectacularly gorgeous with some very unique views of the mountains. I'm sure you already know all about Mormon Row barns and Oxbow bend, so I'll skip telling you not to miss them! :-)
The hike to Hidden Falls on the far side of Jenny Lake was worth taking - pretty waterfall! Really... it felt like everything in the Tetons belonged on a postcard. Of the two parks, I found the Tetons infinitely more photogenic.
If you like pancakes... don't miss Dornan's in Moose, Wy (near the Teton's entrance). They make the best sourdough pancakes on the planet.
posted by MorningPerson at 12:03 PM on April 21, 2010
I would avoid camping in that area unless you're an experienced camper and have the proper gear. Weather changes fast out there, lots of June nights go down to close to freezing and bears can be an issue.
In Yellowstone:
I thought the Midway Geyser Basin was beautiful for photography. There is a trail that leads you up a hillside behind Grand Prismatic (maybe a mile each way). It's the best place to get views overlooking the area. On a sunny day, the colors are breathtaking. They dull out under cloudy skies.
If you're willing to get up early, try driving through the Lamar Valley. It's breathtaking at dawn. We saw so much wildlife there - everything from wolves to pronghorns. The area is also gorgeous for landscape shooting. We saw a grizzly sow with cubs several times on Mt. Washburn. Hayden Valley is also very photogenic.
In Grand Teton:
Don't miss the Gros Ventre area! It was spectacularly gorgeous with some very unique views of the mountains. I'm sure you already know all about Mormon Row barns and Oxbow bend, so I'll skip telling you not to miss them! :-)
The hike to Hidden Falls on the far side of Jenny Lake was worth taking - pretty waterfall! Really... it felt like everything in the Tetons belonged on a postcard. Of the two parks, I found the Tetons infinitely more photogenic.
If you like pancakes... don't miss Dornan's in Moose, Wy (near the Teton's entrance). They make the best sourdough pancakes on the planet.
posted by MorningPerson at 12:03 PM on April 21, 2010
I have a friend that was on a hike in Utah with two teenagers. The hike took longer than they expected, the Sun set, there was no moon, and it took until almost midnight for them to find their way back to their car. My friend was kicking himself for not having a headlamp. Think_Long speaks truth.
posted by lukemeister at 12:03 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by lukemeister at 12:03 PM on April 21, 2010
Northwest to Billings and west to Bozeman and Helena
There is nothing worthwhile between Billings and Bozeman. Don't stop. Bozeman is awesome; I lived there for four years. You should easily be able to find cheap vegetarian food since it's a college town. Pickle Barrel is not to be missed. There's a backpacker's hostel on 4th and Olive if you need a place to stay. Montana State also rents out dorm rooms in the summer. If you need any topo maps or advice about the area, check out Northern Lights Trading Company. I used to work there and the staff is very knowledgeable about the wilderness areas. Also you will want to keep abreast of weather conditions. A weather radio is an excellent idea; snow is still possible in June and probable in Yellowstone.
If I were you, I'd take 191 south from Bozeman towards West Yellowstone. Take 287 to Hebgen Lake for some great photos. When you get to West Yellowstone, you can take 20 if you want to noodle through some of Idaho before going into the park. Here's the route I'd take.
CARRY BEAR SPRAY EVERYWHERE YOU CAMP IN MONTANA AND WYOMING. Seriously. It's expensive but you won't miss the $50 if it stops you from getting mauled.
edited on preview: you want a headlamp because at some point you'll be setting up camp in the dark/going to the bathroom at night and it's a pain in the ass to carry a flashlight while you're trying to use both hands.
posted by desjardins at 12:15 PM on April 21, 2010 [2 favorites]
There is nothing worthwhile between Billings and Bozeman. Don't stop. Bozeman is awesome; I lived there for four years. You should easily be able to find cheap vegetarian food since it's a college town. Pickle Barrel is not to be missed. There's a backpacker's hostel on 4th and Olive if you need a place to stay. Montana State also rents out dorm rooms in the summer. If you need any topo maps or advice about the area, check out Northern Lights Trading Company. I used to work there and the staff is very knowledgeable about the wilderness areas. Also you will want to keep abreast of weather conditions. A weather radio is an excellent idea; snow is still possible in June and probable in Yellowstone.
If I were you, I'd take 191 south from Bozeman towards West Yellowstone. Take 287 to Hebgen Lake for some great photos. When you get to West Yellowstone, you can take 20 if you want to noodle through some of Idaho before going into the park. Here's the route I'd take.
CARRY BEAR SPRAY EVERYWHERE YOU CAMP IN MONTANA AND WYOMING. Seriously. It's expensive but you won't miss the $50 if it stops you from getting mauled.
edited on preview: you want a headlamp because at some point you'll be setting up camp in the dark/going to the bathroom at night and it's a pain in the ass to carry a flashlight while you're trying to use both hands.
posted by desjardins at 12:15 PM on April 21, 2010 [2 favorites]
Allow longer than you think for the Black Hills. The landscape is really stunning and it's lousy with wildlife! Spend time there in Custer State Park. There are some gorgeous waterfalls and backcountry trails.
Bozeman is a really hip town and we spent 2 more days there than we thought we would. You can certainly find a good veggie meal there.
In Yellowstone, yes there are bears, but most of the campsites provide a fixed, heavy-duty iron box which you can stow all your pfood in and lock with a padlock. Bring a padlock (with a long locking loop, not a short one - more flexibility). Don't take any chances - put anything in there that smells good, even if it's not food - shampoo, deoderant, soap, etc.
In the Tetons, you can take a boat across Jenny Lake and up into the high peaks area. This is a longer hike, but the views are incomparable. Stand in a glacier! See high mountain lakes and craggy bluffs with bighorn sheep! Wowee. It's wonderful. The air is wicked thin up there, though, so plan to go slow.
Don't worry too much about being an inexperienced camper. Within three days you will have found solutions that stay with you for most of the trip. Simple is fine. Don't obsess. If you forget anything, you can always purchase it - not only do all the campgrounds you will be going to have stores, but even in the great wide west you are never far from a Wal-Mart.
Best camping advice: set up camp before dark. Really try to get in and get settled. It's miserable fumbling around in the dark in a foreign place,trying to find the bathroom, etc. If you get there while it's light out you can lay out your equipment in a sensible fashion and be able to find it. Set up somewhat of a routine. In the morning after you've packed, always walk through your site on a final 'sweep' to make sure you got everything.
Bring a clothesline. Invaluable! You will need somewhere to hang damp towels, socks,and clothes on days you're staying in camp. If you aren't good with knots get a bungee style one.
Bring a light source aside from a flashlight. A steady source like an electric lantern is great for around the site. A headlamp is really nice for when you're in the tent, reading, or for cooking after dark. But an electric lantern can illuminate your whole site nicely.
posted by Miko at 12:18 PM on April 21, 2010
Bozeman is a really hip town and we spent 2 more days there than we thought we would. You can certainly find a good veggie meal there.
In Yellowstone, yes there are bears, but most of the campsites provide a fixed, heavy-duty iron box which you can stow all your pfood in and lock with a padlock. Bring a padlock (with a long locking loop, not a short one - more flexibility). Don't take any chances - put anything in there that smells good, even if it's not food - shampoo, deoderant, soap, etc.
In the Tetons, you can take a boat across Jenny Lake and up into the high peaks area. This is a longer hike, but the views are incomparable. Stand in a glacier! See high mountain lakes and craggy bluffs with bighorn sheep! Wowee. It's wonderful. The air is wicked thin up there, though, so plan to go slow.
Don't worry too much about being an inexperienced camper. Within three days you will have found solutions that stay with you for most of the trip. Simple is fine. Don't obsess. If you forget anything, you can always purchase it - not only do all the campgrounds you will be going to have stores, but even in the great wide west you are never far from a Wal-Mart.
Best camping advice: set up camp before dark. Really try to get in and get settled. It's miserable fumbling around in the dark in a foreign place,trying to find the bathroom, etc. If you get there while it's light out you can lay out your equipment in a sensible fashion and be able to find it. Set up somewhat of a routine. In the morning after you've packed, always walk through your site on a final 'sweep' to make sure you got everything.
Bring a clothesline. Invaluable! You will need somewhere to hang damp towels, socks,and clothes on days you're staying in camp. If you aren't good with knots get a bungee style one.
Bring a light source aside from a flashlight. A steady source like an electric lantern is great for around the site. A headlamp is really nice for when you're in the tent, reading, or for cooking after dark. But an electric lantern can illuminate your whole site nicely.
posted by Miko at 12:18 PM on April 21, 2010
Off the top of my head, don't miss a sunrise near the West Yellowstone entrance, especially the area where the road goes to the north side of the river about two miles on the Wyoming side of the state line (on Google maps there's a couple obvious sloughs). As the fog clears, there's critters galore.
US287 out east of the Tetons a ways has some really nice vistas of the Wind River range. Maybe not photogenic, but...man. Just sit out there, listen to the silence.
posted by notsnot at 12:19 PM on April 21, 2010
US287 out east of the Tetons a ways has some really nice vistas of the Wind River range. Maybe not photogenic, but...man. Just sit out there, listen to the silence.
posted by notsnot at 12:19 PM on April 21, 2010
wrt to bears, I hiked in Montana for four years and never saw one. I did run into some elk and a moose while hiking in Yellowstone. (I gave them a really, really wide berth.)
posted by desjardins at 12:23 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by desjardins at 12:23 PM on April 21, 2010
You want two headlamps, actually: one with a MOTHERFUCKING BRIGHT light in case you stay out past dark or decide to hike to a spot to do scenery + startrails. The other one is to hold more batteries for the bright one, and should have a red bulb or red cover. That way you don't destroy your night vision when dicking with camera gear after dark.
Oh, and as long as you don't tear-ass on them, any road not marked "high clearance" or "four-wheel-drive" only should be fine for you civic. I took my CRX on all kindsa weird roads, and only hurt the car when I started trying to chase a sunset to Kintla Lake in Glacier. (The car got a 1" drop from that trip - four broken springs!)
posted by notsnot at 12:23 PM on April 21, 2010
Oh, and as long as you don't tear-ass on them, any road not marked "high clearance" or "four-wheel-drive" only should be fine for you civic. I took my CRX on all kindsa weird roads, and only hurt the car when I started trying to chase a sunset to Kintla Lake in Glacier. (The car got a 1" drop from that trip - four broken springs!)
posted by notsnot at 12:23 PM on April 21, 2010
Everybody says that there's a possibility for snow at that time of year at that altitude.
...it's a really remote possibility. Can happen (in the Tetons too) but really pretty unlikely.
posted by Miko at 12:30 PM on April 21, 2010
...it's a really remote possibility. Can happen (in the Tetons too) but really pretty unlikely.
posted by Miko at 12:30 PM on April 21, 2010
Response by poster: Okay, headlamp! I will get one. I have a wind-up flashlight and wind-up weather radio (I live in tornado country!).
I have been going back and forth on the bear spray. My Eagle Scout cousin laughed at me and my more-outdoorsy friends thought it was overkill when I've mentioned it, but I keep thinking it's better safe than sorry.
Everyone is posting very helpful stuff! I will be making note of these photographic locations and the suggestions for Bozeman and routes.
Keep it coming if you have more advice!
posted by aabbbiee at 12:31 PM on April 21, 2010
I have been going back and forth on the bear spray. My Eagle Scout cousin laughed at me and my more-outdoorsy friends thought it was overkill when I've mentioned it, but I keep thinking it's better safe than sorry.
Everyone is posting very helpful stuff! I will be making note of these photographic locations and the suggestions for Bozeman and routes.
Keep it coming if you have more advice!
posted by aabbbiee at 12:31 PM on April 21, 2010
This is why you need a headlamp. (self-link askme answer)
posted by Lutoslawski at 12:34 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by Lutoslawski at 12:34 PM on April 21, 2010
Miko mentioned the altitude... you will really notice it since you don't live there. Be sure to take your time while hiking. Don't be surprised if you get nauseous, lightheaded or have nosebleeds.
posted by desjardins at 12:38 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by desjardins at 12:38 PM on April 21, 2010
I just thought of something else! If you do want to see Grizzlies and Wolves up-close, but in a safe setting - the Grizzly & Wolf Center in West Yellowstone was really interesting. We went twice while we were out there.
posted by MorningPerson at 12:42 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by MorningPerson at 12:42 PM on April 21, 2010
If you do the Beartooth Highway you'll wind up in Red Lodge, Montana. I love this area and my husband and I have done several vacations and backcountry trips over the years around here. There's a good restaurant on the main strip in downtown Red Lodge I'd recommend: The Bridge Creek Backcountry Kitchen. I almost always eat vegetarian and I've never had trouble finding good stuff to eat here. It's a bit pricier than a burgers-and-pizza kind of joint, but if you're mostly self-catering it would be a good splurge meal to celebrate the trip.
posted by handful of rain at 12:57 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by handful of rain at 12:57 PM on April 21, 2010
When you hike around yellowstone, you're bound to run into bison. Far, far more people are injured there each year by bison than by bears. They are huge, territorial (especially the males, and this might be mating season) and they can run 30+ mph.
If you go near them and hear a sort of low rumble coming from one, this means he or she is trying to dissuade you from getting any closer.
My wife and I were hiking in Yellowstone across a meadow and there were bison all around. Sure enough, we heard a low, menacing rumble coming from one nearby, so we quickly darted towards a group of elderly tourists thinking that the bison would go after the slower targets first. And yes, I'm not proud.
Let me know if you're stopping in Laramie, Wyoming, on your way back. My wife and I would be glad to give you a place to stay for the night. Also, we have an awesome vegetarian restaurant here.
posted by elder18 at 1:20 PM on April 21, 2010
If you go near them and hear a sort of low rumble coming from one, this means he or she is trying to dissuade you from getting any closer.
My wife and I were hiking in Yellowstone across a meadow and there were bison all around. Sure enough, we heard a low, menacing rumble coming from one nearby, so we quickly darted towards a group of elderly tourists thinking that the bison would go after the slower targets first. And yes, I'm not proud.
Let me know if you're stopping in Laramie, Wyoming, on your way back. My wife and I would be glad to give you a place to stay for the night. Also, we have an awesome vegetarian restaurant here.
posted by elder18 at 1:20 PM on April 21, 2010
Yeah, I don't know about the bear spray. I've spent a lot of time in the woods, along the East Coast in the Adirondacks, Catskills, and Appalachian chain, and a long memorable trip out West to some of the regions you're visiting, and it's not something I ever seemed to need. I didn't even see many people using it.
In the Adirondacks, there were bear in our campsite one night, locating a baggie of hot cocoa mix that someone had left out. They were not interested in us, just the food.
I suppose there might be some argument to using it if you're in the backcountry exclusively.
The only person I know who was mauled by a bear had food in his tent. I agree that the bison, moose, etc. are more of a hazard.
Here's Backpacker Magazine: Does Bear Spray Work?
posted by Miko at 1:43 PM on April 21, 2010
In the Adirondacks, there were bear in our campsite one night, locating a baggie of hot cocoa mix that someone had left out. They were not interested in us, just the food.
I suppose there might be some argument to using it if you're in the backcountry exclusively.
The only person I know who was mauled by a bear had food in his tent. I agree that the bison, moose, etc. are more of a hazard.
Here's Backpacker Magazine: Does Bear Spray Work?
posted by Miko at 1:43 PM on April 21, 2010
Whether or not some Internet strangers say you NEED bear spray, having some on hand was the difference between my wife being able to sleep at night, and staying up all night scared out of her mind. So the peace of mind might be worth something.
(I've had bears go through my camp. My tent, with me in it, smelled like B.O., and my campsite smelled like nothing. Meanwhile, the neighbors' campsite, which smelled like, well, loud sex I guess, was ransacked.)
posted by notsnot at 1:49 PM on April 21, 2010
(I've had bears go through my camp. My tent, with me in it, smelled like B.O., and my campsite smelled like nothing. Meanwhile, the neighbors' campsite, which smelled like, well, loud sex I guess, was ransacked.)
posted by notsnot at 1:49 PM on April 21, 2010
Bearspray is mace, in essence. If you want it as a comfort, take it, but be aware that you need to get very close to the bear for it to work. Bears do seem to like the taste of capsicum in my experience, it is definitely not a repellent. I once saw a bear pull down a whole line of laundry and wander off with it because a camper had sprayed bearspray on it. The bear did seem to appreciate the treat---we found the clothes later and they had be well rolled upon.
Bears do not like humans, generally, and are driven away by human sounds. Bear bells on you pack are an excellent deterrent for bears while you are awake.
Bears like odours, particularly those which smell like fats or fruits. Your best option is to keep food, perfumes, shampoo, even soap locked safely in your car. Be careful with waste too. It either goes into a bear-proof bin or into a bag in your car. A cooler, unless it is specifically designed to be bear-proof is just a bear's lunch-box. They can open a Coleman with a single swipe.
There are other options if you're doing overnights in bear country (bear safes and such), but you can't go wrong with this simple rule: If it smells, lock it up in your vehicle.
Also, never, ever eat in your tent or where you sleep.
I once bumped noses with a bear cub over a woodpile because the hostel mother's kids had been feeding the chipmunks who lived in there. Fortunately we were so scared of each other that we both bolted in opposite directions. We were very careful where we put down granola crumbs after that.
posted by bonehead at 2:12 PM on April 21, 2010
Bears do not like humans, generally, and are driven away by human sounds. Bear bells on you pack are an excellent deterrent for bears while you are awake.
Bears like odours, particularly those which smell like fats or fruits. Your best option is to keep food, perfumes, shampoo, even soap locked safely in your car. Be careful with waste too. It either goes into a bear-proof bin or into a bag in your car. A cooler, unless it is specifically designed to be bear-proof is just a bear's lunch-box. They can open a Coleman with a single swipe.
There are other options if you're doing overnights in bear country (bear safes and such), but you can't go wrong with this simple rule: If it smells, lock it up in your vehicle.
Also, never, ever eat in your tent or where you sleep.
I once bumped noses with a bear cub over a woodpile because the hostel mother's kids had been feeding the chipmunks who lived in there. Fortunately we were so scared of each other that we both bolted in opposite directions. We were very careful where we put down granola crumbs after that.
posted by bonehead at 2:12 PM on April 21, 2010
I have been going back and forth on the bear spray. My Eagle Scout cousin laughed at me and my more-outdoorsy friends thought it was overkill when I've mentioned it, but I keep thinking it's better safe than sorry.
If you're really worried about it, it's cheap peace of mind. But the last time I was in Yellowstone I picked up a copy of this book (which you will probably see for sale in all the visitors' centers), and the author makes the point that when hiking he is far more concerned about water crossings/hypothermia than bears.
And really, as others have said in Yellowstone/Grand Teton it's not bears you have to worry about, but elk, moose, and bison. They'll go places bears would never dream of, and there are more of them than there are bears. I nearly got attacked by an elk on the boardwalk in the Old Faithful geyser basin, and when we were in the ski area in Jackson a moose came wandering through. (You'll see signs everywhere telling you to give wildlife a 30-yard berth. They're not joking.)
posted by asterix at 2:21 PM on April 21, 2010
If you're really worried about it, it's cheap peace of mind. But the last time I was in Yellowstone I picked up a copy of this book (which you will probably see for sale in all the visitors' centers), and the author makes the point that when hiking he is far more concerned about water crossings/hypothermia than bears.
And really, as others have said in Yellowstone/Grand Teton it's not bears you have to worry about, but elk, moose, and bison. They'll go places bears would never dream of, and there are more of them than there are bears. I nearly got attacked by an elk on the boardwalk in the Old Faithful geyser basin, and when we were in the ski area in Jackson a moose came wandering through. (You'll see signs everywhere telling you to give wildlife a 30-yard berth. They're not joking.)
posted by asterix at 2:21 PM on April 21, 2010
Response by poster: Thanks for all the advice on food and odors, but I won't be camping in Yellowstone (and I visited Yosemite a couple of years ago, where even keeping food locked in the car can attract bears) and I will be extra cautious.
Bear spray would be for hiking while alone, which I will be doing at sunrise and other quiet times. I have read several of the studies and journals (more even than has been linked here) so I know what it can do and what it can't do. And I will try to whistle and clap and sing and all those things as well.
I think I will end up getting it just out of peace of mind, because I would hate to surprise any giant scary creature on a trail. Conversely, I would hate to be so afraid of meeting a bear without the spray that I would not take the trail. Which might be likely, knowing me.
(Did I mention that I have in-case-of-tornado supplies? I am really into insurance.)
posted by aabbbiee at 2:43 PM on April 21, 2010
Bear spray would be for hiking while alone, which I will be doing at sunrise and other quiet times. I have read several of the studies and journals (more even than has been linked here) so I know what it can do and what it can't do. And I will try to whistle and clap and sing and all those things as well.
I think I will end up getting it just out of peace of mind, because I would hate to surprise any giant scary creature on a trail. Conversely, I would hate to be so afraid of meeting a bear without the spray that I would not take the trail. Which might be likely, knowing me.
(Did I mention that I have in-case-of-tornado supplies? I am really into insurance.)
posted by aabbbiee at 2:43 PM on April 21, 2010
Everybody says that there's a possibility for snow at that time of year at that altitude.
...it's a really remote possibility. Can happen (in the Tetons too) but really pretty unlikely.
Um, I live in Wyoming, at lower elevation than Yellowstone is. Last winter it snowed here every couple of weeks, through April and into May. It can snow at any time of year especially at high elevations and the possibility is not necessarily "remote". Even if it doesn't snow, it can still get damned cold, so it's a good idea to be prepared.
Also, do not forget mosquito repellent. I was in Yellowstone last summer and I really, really wish I had had massive amounts of mosquito repellent. You might even want a hat with a mosquito on it, depending on where in Yellowstone you'll be.
posted by Lobster Garden at 3:21 PM on April 21, 2010
...it's a really remote possibility. Can happen (in the Tetons too) but really pretty unlikely.
Um, I live in Wyoming, at lower elevation than Yellowstone is. Last winter it snowed here every couple of weeks, through April and into May. It can snow at any time of year especially at high elevations and the possibility is not necessarily "remote". Even if it doesn't snow, it can still get damned cold, so it's a good idea to be prepared.
Also, do not forget mosquito repellent. I was in Yellowstone last summer and I really, really wish I had had massive amounts of mosquito repellent. You might even want a hat with a mosquito on it, depending on where in Yellowstone you'll be.
posted by Lobster Garden at 3:21 PM on April 21, 2010
hat with a mosquito net*
posted by Lobster Garden at 3:22 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by Lobster Garden at 3:22 PM on April 21, 2010
Oh, and DEFINITELY GET BEAR SPRAY. Yellowstone is grizzly country.
posted by Lobster Garden at 3:24 PM on April 21, 2010
posted by Lobster Garden at 3:24 PM on April 21, 2010
And I will try to whistle and clap and sing and all those things as well.
I'm reminded of a quote I read about hiking and bears, something to the effect of "If you're really afraid of getting attacked by a bear, there's one way to make sure they stay away: get a couple of pots and pans and constantly bang them together. I can guarantee you won't see any bears. Of course, you won't see any other wildlife either."
Seriously, bear attack is about the last thing you should be worried about. You're far more likely to have problems with the weather.
posted by asterix at 3:35 PM on April 21, 2010
I'm reminded of a quote I read about hiking and bears, something to the effect of "If you're really afraid of getting attacked by a bear, there's one way to make sure they stay away: get a couple of pots and pans and constantly bang them together. I can guarantee you won't see any bears. Of course, you won't see any other wildlife either."
Seriously, bear attack is about the last thing you should be worried about. You're far more likely to have problems with the weather.
posted by asterix at 3:35 PM on April 21, 2010
2nd not to be worried about bear attack...or any other wildlife attack for that matter. Bear spray? I spent a summer in Denali NP and never heard of anyone carrying bear spray.
The advice about a headlamp is spot on. Also, the advice about giving yourself daylight time to setup a tent is also good -- I'd lengthen that a little and say that do not assume that any campground on your journey will have any spots available unless you have a site reserved. So, give yourself time to get to the next campground or the next. (I just ran into this problem in Moab a couple of weekends ago where a whole long string of popular campgrounds were full). Always ask locals to recommend a campground--be sure to tell them that you are camping in a tent which will let them know that you are not in a RV and don't need that big of a space and probably don't want to be surrounded by RVs (and their noisy generators).
If you drink coffee be sure to bring a means to make coffee. Same for tea or whatever. Think of the small comforts that you will be happy that you brought....maybe a pillow, favorite travel mug, socks, whatever. You are car camping (if I understand correctly) so you don't need to worry too much about bringing a lot of crap. Camp shoes (and driving shoes), for instance are awesome. I can't stand wearing sneakers unless I'm hiking so I always bring flip flops or Chacos/Tevas for camp and driving. On the other hand there is some advantage to bringing less stuff if that means you can fit it all in the trunk so it won't be visible if someone looks in for something to steal.
Nthing bringing warmer clothes than you might think you need in the summer months. Weather can change quick, and dramatically, in the mountains. Practice putting up your tent in your yard or a park on a nice day before your trip so you are very familiar. The same goes for a stove or anything else that you bring.
Have a great trip.
posted by fieldtrip at 8:47 PM on April 21, 2010
The advice about a headlamp is spot on. Also, the advice about giving yourself daylight time to setup a tent is also good -- I'd lengthen that a little and say that do not assume that any campground on your journey will have any spots available unless you have a site reserved. So, give yourself time to get to the next campground or the next. (I just ran into this problem in Moab a couple of weekends ago where a whole long string of popular campgrounds were full). Always ask locals to recommend a campground--be sure to tell them that you are camping in a tent which will let them know that you are not in a RV and don't need that big of a space and probably don't want to be surrounded by RVs (and their noisy generators).
If you drink coffee be sure to bring a means to make coffee. Same for tea or whatever. Think of the small comforts that you will be happy that you brought....maybe a pillow, favorite travel mug, socks, whatever. You are car camping (if I understand correctly) so you don't need to worry too much about bringing a lot of crap. Camp shoes (and driving shoes), for instance are awesome. I can't stand wearing sneakers unless I'm hiking so I always bring flip flops or Chacos/Tevas for camp and driving. On the other hand there is some advantage to bringing less stuff if that means you can fit it all in the trunk so it won't be visible if someone looks in for something to steal.
Nthing bringing warmer clothes than you might think you need in the summer months. Weather can change quick, and dramatically, in the mountains. Practice putting up your tent in your yard or a park on a nice day before your trip so you are very familiar. The same goes for a stove or anything else that you bring.
Have a great trip.
posted by fieldtrip at 8:47 PM on April 21, 2010
Something photographically and historically interesting on your route that you don't mention is Little Big Horn. At first, I was not really interested in visiting, but my travel companion had it on the list. The interpretive centre and associated memorials turned out to be a thoughtful and balanced exhibit, and a lot less "oh the poor, poor, white people" than I had expected. The landscape around there is a combination of rocky hills and pure, golden prairie, and in June, will be absolutely covered in yellow sunflowery blooms. (And rattlesnakes, so stay on the paved trail if you walk the battlefield.)
This joint, in Livingston, MT, is a gorgeous time-traveller's drive in with an excellent veggie burger, if you're going through town.
Are you coming to Yellowstone down through Gardiner, MT (north entrance) or through West Yellowstone, MT (west entrance)? You'll want to decide based on up-to-date road closure information from the park, as there is significant road maintenance every summer that involves pretty hairy traffic snarls. You don't mention whether you'll be taking a computer or netbook, but I found great success trolling motel parking lots for open wifi in both towns.
Yellowstone roads form a giant figure-eight, with lots of little loops and offshoots. The southeast is flat, lakey, and occasionally has a moose or two, and the northeast is hilly and windy. I saw all my bears on the northwest quadrant, and most of the bubbly mudpot action is on the west to southwest side, as is the bald eagle nest that has been active the past two years (near the west entrance access road).
One little drive I recommend is the one-way loop to view the Lower Falls. There is plenty of parking, and depending on your hikiness, you can choose any of a number of trails. One is a very short but steep paved path up to the viewpoint, from which you can see the falls, the canyon, and, if you are lucky, young osprey on a point sticking up from the river. Another trail will take you up to the top of the falls, and another will take you to the bottom. I was babying a bad knee, so I didn't take the longer hike, but I was so, so glad I went up to the viewpoint.
You will learn to identify wildlife by their associated traffic jams. Anything less than ten cars, with all Florida and New York plates is a bison within point-and-shoot camera range. More than twenty cars, with Canadian and local plates, and pedestrians with 500mm lenses -- you have a bear. Other jams include the Look, An Antelope, the Hey I Saw An Eagle, and the What Was That, Oh, It's A Guy Hiking.
You will come home with hundreds of gorgeous photos. I hope you have a great time!
posted by Sallyfur at 1:37 AM on April 22, 2010 [1 favorite]
This joint, in Livingston, MT, is a gorgeous time-traveller's drive in with an excellent veggie burger, if you're going through town.
Are you coming to Yellowstone down through Gardiner, MT (north entrance) or through West Yellowstone, MT (west entrance)? You'll want to decide based on up-to-date road closure information from the park, as there is significant road maintenance every summer that involves pretty hairy traffic snarls. You don't mention whether you'll be taking a computer or netbook, but I found great success trolling motel parking lots for open wifi in both towns.
Yellowstone roads form a giant figure-eight, with lots of little loops and offshoots. The southeast is flat, lakey, and occasionally has a moose or two, and the northeast is hilly and windy. I saw all my bears on the northwest quadrant, and most of the bubbly mudpot action is on the west to southwest side, as is the bald eagle nest that has been active the past two years (near the west entrance access road).
One little drive I recommend is the one-way loop to view the Lower Falls. There is plenty of parking, and depending on your hikiness, you can choose any of a number of trails. One is a very short but steep paved path up to the viewpoint, from which you can see the falls, the canyon, and, if you are lucky, young osprey on a point sticking up from the river. Another trail will take you up to the top of the falls, and another will take you to the bottom. I was babying a bad knee, so I didn't take the longer hike, but I was so, so glad I went up to the viewpoint.
You will learn to identify wildlife by their associated traffic jams. Anything less than ten cars, with all Florida and New York plates is a bison within point-and-shoot camera range. More than twenty cars, with Canadian and local plates, and pedestrians with 500mm lenses -- you have a bear. Other jams include the Look, An Antelope, the Hey I Saw An Eagle, and the What Was That, Oh, It's A Guy Hiking.
You will come home with hundreds of gorgeous photos. I hope you have a great time!
posted by Sallyfur at 1:37 AM on April 22, 2010 [1 favorite]
When I first saw this post, I had to wonder if I had posted it ... until I saw the car mentioned, and the June dates. I'm riding my motorcycle out there from MN, and am hoping for minimal snow.
I don't think I'd worry a whole lot about bears except in a few specific situations: night-time photography is one of them. Taking star trails out in the wilderness, especially for someone who isn't really used to being out in the country at night, can be ... interesting. A little spooky, especially since the whole point of night-time photography is to avoid light pollution, so you don't want to use a flashlight or have a fire going.
Keeping in mind the time of year, it may become difficult to find camping available due to proximity to Memorial Day, a big holiday for people to begin the camping year. First-come, first-serve camping is sometimes tough to find that last week of May/first week of June, so watch out.
MorningPerson was right, I too find the Tetons way more photogenic. I am going the last week or two of May, and am hoping to do some night-time shooting around Mormon Row with the nearly-full moon lighting up the foreground.
One thing you might consider, if you have time... the North Dakota Badlands (Theodore Roosevelt National Park) are quite beautiful, and not visited nearly as much as the Badlands in South Dakota. It's quite a ways out of your way, though.
Have an excellent trip!
posted by dwbrant at 1:42 PM on April 22, 2010
I don't think I'd worry a whole lot about bears except in a few specific situations: night-time photography is one of them. Taking star trails out in the wilderness, especially for someone who isn't really used to being out in the country at night, can be ... interesting. A little spooky, especially since the whole point of night-time photography is to avoid light pollution, so you don't want to use a flashlight or have a fire going.
Keeping in mind the time of year, it may become difficult to find camping available due to proximity to Memorial Day, a big holiday for people to begin the camping year. First-come, first-serve camping is sometimes tough to find that last week of May/first week of June, so watch out.
MorningPerson was right, I too find the Tetons way more photogenic. I am going the last week or two of May, and am hoping to do some night-time shooting around Mormon Row with the nearly-full moon lighting up the foreground.
One thing you might consider, if you have time... the North Dakota Badlands (Theodore Roosevelt National Park) are quite beautiful, and not visited nearly as much as the Badlands in South Dakota. It's quite a ways out of your way, though.
Have an excellent trip!
posted by dwbrant at 1:42 PM on April 22, 2010
The Total Yellowstone Weather Page. Average temperatures in June: Max 70, Min 41. Average precipitation: 2.0 inches rainfall; .1 inches snowfall.
So I certainly agree that you should be prepared for wintry cold and the possibility of snow. However...it's not likely that your trip, especially one of shorter hikes rather than backcountry adventure is going to be severely impacted or impeded by snow. The "anything can happen" clause certainly applies, and I didn't mean to imply that it doesn't or that you shouldn't be prepared, but I wouldn't allow fear of a blizzard to consume your thoughts about planning.
Granted, I only visisted Yellowstone/the Tetons once, in mid-June to mid-July. The weather was summery. In the peaks of the Tetons at 10-14000ft, there was perma-snow on the ground. I never saw any snow falling. The Plains thunderstorms were what were most frightening on my trip, weatherwise (and are something to be aware of for you motorcyclers! What gullywashers! What lightning!)
posted by Miko at 8:26 AM on April 23, 2010
So I certainly agree that you should be prepared for wintry cold and the possibility of snow. However...it's not likely that your trip, especially one of shorter hikes rather than backcountry adventure is going to be severely impacted or impeded by snow. The "anything can happen" clause certainly applies, and I didn't mean to imply that it doesn't or that you shouldn't be prepared, but I wouldn't allow fear of a blizzard to consume your thoughts about planning.
Granted, I only visisted Yellowstone/the Tetons once, in mid-June to mid-July. The weather was summery. In the peaks of the Tetons at 10-14000ft, there was perma-snow on the ground. I never saw any snow falling. The Plains thunderstorms were what were most frightening on my trip, weatherwise (and are something to be aware of for you motorcyclers! What gullywashers! What lightning!)
posted by Miko at 8:26 AM on April 23, 2010
Response by poster: Thanks to everyone for all of the helpful information. I will go through all of this bit by bit, look things up, and apply to my itinerary or shopping lists, as necessary!
I'm sure I won't have to deal with snow or bears, but I will be prepared for them and a thousand other things.
Thanks again!
posted by aabbbiee at 12:58 PM on April 27, 2010
I'm sure I won't have to deal with snow or bears, but I will be prepared for them and a thousand other things.
Thanks again!
posted by aabbbiee at 12:58 PM on April 27, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
This sounds like an awesome road trip! However, camping in Yellowstone is nothing to shake a stick at. Do have a lock box or an apparatus to hang your food and toiletries in a tree. Bears will try to get at it if you don't. Specifically, don't leave anything like toothpaste in your tent.
Oh, and my number 1 camping tip that I give out because I always forget myself - when you put up your tent, make sure to bring a tarp to put under the tent - and turn the edges of the tarp underneath it. The last time I camped Yellowstone I didn't do this and I returned to my tent after a rainy day to find all of my gear soaked.
posted by Lutoslawski at 11:33 AM on April 21, 2010 [1 favorite]