Okavango Delta Blues
January 12, 2010 6:35 PM Subscribe
Okavango Delta with trip to Namibia - worth it?
Hey there, I'm ball-shakingly excited to be taking a trip to Namibia in July this year, however I'm kind of at odds and ends regarding some itinerary decisions.
We're probably going on a tour, because I don't have a license, and the burden of driving solo is a bit much for my girlfriend (plus she isn't good with a manual), but I'm a bit torn about where to go.
Definitely in so far is Etosha park, and the desert down south, but I'm debating about whether to go to the Okavango Delta in Botswana, too. It's a significant increase on our costs (another $1500 for me, give or take), and - aside from the water - I'm wondering if the money is justified given our odds of seeing lots of animals in Etosha are quite good at that time of year.
Some context - I'm from Australia, I grew up in the country, I'm very familiar with the great outdoors in general, so if the appeal is simply that general idea, it won't be strong enough. At the same time, I don't want to miss out on a wonder of the world/truly unique environment/experience...
Thoughts? Emotions? Also, any other general advice about traveling in Namibia more than welcome, thanks Mefites!
Hey there, I'm ball-shakingly excited to be taking a trip to Namibia in July this year, however I'm kind of at odds and ends regarding some itinerary decisions.
We're probably going on a tour, because I don't have a license, and the burden of driving solo is a bit much for my girlfriend (plus she isn't good with a manual), but I'm a bit torn about where to go.
Definitely in so far is Etosha park, and the desert down south, but I'm debating about whether to go to the Okavango Delta in Botswana, too. It's a significant increase on our costs (another $1500 for me, give or take), and - aside from the water - I'm wondering if the money is justified given our odds of seeing lots of animals in Etosha are quite good at that time of year.
Some context - I'm from Australia, I grew up in the country, I'm very familiar with the great outdoors in general, so if the appeal is simply that general idea, it won't be strong enough. At the same time, I don't want to miss out on a wonder of the world/truly unique environment/experience...
Thoughts? Emotions? Also, any other general advice about traveling in Namibia more than welcome, thanks Mefites!
Best answer: When I was in Namibia, we did hire a car. It isn't difficult driving in that traffic is fairly calm, and much of it is like driving in outback Australia - looooong roads with nothing on them. We did see one car that had just hit a kudu (deer type thing) - being Australians, we had packed plenty of drinking water in the car and gave them some while they were waiting for assistance. I am not really into driving in foreign countries that much, but Namibia was ok (although my business companion ended up doing most of the driving!). So you may want to reconsider, although like Australia, the distances are quite far.
It has been a few years since I was there, but I would say take the closing hours of the national parks seriously! We were trapped after underestimating the time to get to the gate, and had to call our hotel to come and rescue us.
Things I remember now about Namibia - great seafood at Luigi and the Fish in Windhoek, the Wine Bar in Windhoek at sunset, and getting German pastries in some tiny little town in the middle of nowhere. Also, the place we stayed near Etosha National Park was great, with fantastic meals included, Mushara Lodge. We were able to see plenty in Etosha, even though it wasn't a great time of year. I haven't been to Botswana, so can't compare (though compared to Masai Mara in Kenya, Etosha was pretty tame but still exciting for my first 'safari').
posted by AnnaRat at 7:59 PM on January 12, 2010
It has been a few years since I was there, but I would say take the closing hours of the national parks seriously! We were trapped after underestimating the time to get to the gate, and had to call our hotel to come and rescue us.
Things I remember now about Namibia - great seafood at Luigi and the Fish in Windhoek, the Wine Bar in Windhoek at sunset, and getting German pastries in some tiny little town in the middle of nowhere. Also, the place we stayed near Etosha National Park was great, with fantastic meals included, Mushara Lodge. We were able to see plenty in Etosha, even though it wasn't a great time of year. I haven't been to Botswana, so can't compare (though compared to Masai Mara in Kenya, Etosha was pretty tame but still exciting for my first 'safari').
posted by AnnaRat at 7:59 PM on January 12, 2010
Best answer: I've travelled to both Namibia and Botswana. I would rank the Okavango delta over many of the things I saw in Namibia, awesome though they were, because it's just that awesome! (I was there in late November, the opposite season may affect things)
The Okavango Delta was the highlight. Myself and my boyfriend at the time, on a student budget, blanched at the high, high high prices the travel lodges charged. As we were coming from the North, from the Caprivi strip, that set us up nicely to go to the Northeastern side of the Delta.
We arranged a 2 day, 1 night camping guided makoro (canoe) tour with a local community-based tourism company. I think it was these people: http://www.okavangodelta.co.bw/We had to provide our own tent and food and food for the guide, but it was very reasonable. I don't remember exactly how much, but around $150 total.
We were poled around like royalty by our guide Fox the first day, and he brought us to an island where we set up camp. In the nighttime the lions roared and the elephants foraged for marula fruits. I, slept though all of this. I was also very annoyed the my wide-awake boyfriend didn't wake me. The game walk the next day was out of this world. We walked for 3-4 hours on a bigger island and saw TONS of animals. Mostly antelope and wildebeest, but TONS of them. And they were largely unafriad, which was great as we could get much, much closer than at other parks I've been to in SA. We also saw a lot of hippos from a cautious distance. The only downside was that we didn't have any pula to pay with, and had a contentious negotiation about the exchange rate into South African rands. But it was a wonderful, wonderful experience - I wish we'd stayed a day or two more. They were by far the cheapest outfit I could find, though this was back in 2004 so maybe more are up on the net, but the had a great experience.
It was the most amazing place I've been to in southern Africa, counting Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, and Vic Falls. You're poled along near silently in this little boat, watching the birds and the hippos, through these tall stands of papyrus and millions of tiny islands. The game walk was magical - just the two of us and our guide watching baby impala and oribi, and watching waterbuck splash through the channels, and the wildebeest graze. (caution: watch out for big thorns) It was so beautiful and remote and unspoiled, and felt a lot more close to nature and a lot more relaxed and intuitive than the driving jeep tours I've been on in other African parks.
As a bonus, we also saw TONS of animals driving through Chobe national park on the transit permit (you have to pay if you stay over 6 or 8 hours). Heaps of antelope, and an entire herd of about 25 elephants crossed the road right in front of us. Very nerve-racking - we had the car ready to go in reverse, but so beautiful. Elephants can move amazingly quietly- they all just emerged out of the bush.
Highlights of Namibia: Sossusvlei, Luderitz, and Twefylfontein, in that order. We didn't go to Etosha, which is also supposed to be phenomenal.
If you could rent a car, that would be ideal. I rented one from South Africa for about $2,000 for 5 weeks, and it was very much worth it. It was much more affordable than going on a private tour, and the public transit, while it kinda functions, requires a LOT of waiting around for the minivans, and doesn't go to the more touristy places. You can find an automatic car, but it will probably be more expensive.
Most of the roads in Namibia and (less so) Botswana are excellent - but they're made of grave. There's about 4-5 major paved highway in Namibia, and roads in major towns, but the smaller, more beautiful roads are all packed gravel. Well-graded, but more dangerous to drive on - skids more easily turn into the car rolling over due to the really high friction of the skidding tires on grave. Also if you're driving, as AnnaRat says, you need to be prepared with water and food. Preferably extra petrol as well. There's no traffic, so the manual isn't a big of a deal, as you won't be shifting often except in town. But things are VERY far apart.
In Namibia:
Sossusvlei is amazing. Definitely go up one of the dunes - you can see for ages. Be careful about the closing times- we nearly got locked out of the park and drove at break-neck speed over potholed roads to get out in time. I don't reccomend that part. You're not allowed in at sunset or sunrise IIRC unless you're part of a tour, but try to go in the earlier morning or late afternoon - you'll get that beautiful stark light and shadow. The strudel place is fun, definitely a guide-book draw. Watch out for the SPARROWS! I put my cake down first, trying not to spill my coffee, and the little buggers had eaten about a third of it in those few seconds. They are ruthless.
South of Sossusvlei several hours, but still within the Namib-Nakluft National Park area, there's an abandoned german diamond mining town called Luderitz. It's amazing - the dunes have overrun the town, breaking windows spilling in through walls. It was a very desolate, beautiful feel. It's a bit far south, but really neat. Maybe not so appealing if you're very familiar with ghost towns, but it was just stunning. If you drive, just driving between Sossusvlei and Swakopmund was amazing - beautiful downs-like rolling hills, but sort of inverted. It's hard to describe, but awesome. Swakopmund itself was not that exciting, but you can drive an ATV around the sand dunes, which is pretty fun, and see the caches of horse bones from the German army's expedition/genocide in Namibia in the 1910's.
Tywfelfontein is pretty neat - it's a huge collection of rock carvings. It's a wonderful day or halfday trip to break up the driving, and it's closer to Etosha than the other things.
I just loved the landscape in Namibia - we spent so much time just stopped in the middle of the road, staring at the landscape and taking photos. I grew up in New Jersey, so that kind of sparse landscape is really alien and appealing for me. Again, depending on the landscape in your parts of Australia, desert scrubland might not be as exciting. So let me once again entice you to Okavango - it's so lush and green and totally different.
OK! So, this is a long, long essay. I loved Namibia and Botwana - please contact me if you have any questions! I'd love to reminisce.
posted by foodmapper at 9:12 PM on January 12, 2010 [1 favorite]
The Okavango Delta was the highlight. Myself and my boyfriend at the time, on a student budget, blanched at the high, high high prices the travel lodges charged. As we were coming from the North, from the Caprivi strip, that set us up nicely to go to the Northeastern side of the Delta.
We arranged a 2 day, 1 night camping guided makoro (canoe) tour with a local community-based tourism company. I think it was these people: http://www.okavangodelta.co.bw/We had to provide our own tent and food and food for the guide, but it was very reasonable. I don't remember exactly how much, but around $150 total.
We were poled around like royalty by our guide Fox the first day, and he brought us to an island where we set up camp. In the nighttime the lions roared and the elephants foraged for marula fruits. I, slept though all of this. I was also very annoyed the my wide-awake boyfriend didn't wake me. The game walk the next day was out of this world. We walked for 3-4 hours on a bigger island and saw TONS of animals. Mostly antelope and wildebeest, but TONS of them. And they were largely unafriad, which was great as we could get much, much closer than at other parks I've been to in SA. We also saw a lot of hippos from a cautious distance. The only downside was that we didn't have any pula to pay with, and had a contentious negotiation about the exchange rate into South African rands. But it was a wonderful, wonderful experience - I wish we'd stayed a day or two more. They were by far the cheapest outfit I could find, though this was back in 2004 so maybe more are up on the net, but the had a great experience.
It was the most amazing place I've been to in southern Africa, counting Botswana, Namibia, South Africa, and Vic Falls. You're poled along near silently in this little boat, watching the birds and the hippos, through these tall stands of papyrus and millions of tiny islands. The game walk was magical - just the two of us and our guide watching baby impala and oribi, and watching waterbuck splash through the channels, and the wildebeest graze. (caution: watch out for big thorns) It was so beautiful and remote and unspoiled, and felt a lot more close to nature and a lot more relaxed and intuitive than the driving jeep tours I've been on in other African parks.
As a bonus, we also saw TONS of animals driving through Chobe national park on the transit permit (you have to pay if you stay over 6 or 8 hours). Heaps of antelope, and an entire herd of about 25 elephants crossed the road right in front of us. Very nerve-racking - we had the car ready to go in reverse, but so beautiful. Elephants can move amazingly quietly- they all just emerged out of the bush.
Highlights of Namibia: Sossusvlei, Luderitz, and Twefylfontein, in that order. We didn't go to Etosha, which is also supposed to be phenomenal.
If you could rent a car, that would be ideal. I rented one from South Africa for about $2,000 for 5 weeks, and it was very much worth it. It was much more affordable than going on a private tour, and the public transit, while it kinda functions, requires a LOT of waiting around for the minivans, and doesn't go to the more touristy places. You can find an automatic car, but it will probably be more expensive.
Most of the roads in Namibia and (less so) Botswana are excellent - but they're made of grave. There's about 4-5 major paved highway in Namibia, and roads in major towns, but the smaller, more beautiful roads are all packed gravel. Well-graded, but more dangerous to drive on - skids more easily turn into the car rolling over due to the really high friction of the skidding tires on grave. Also if you're driving, as AnnaRat says, you need to be prepared with water and food. Preferably extra petrol as well. There's no traffic, so the manual isn't a big of a deal, as you won't be shifting often except in town. But things are VERY far apart.
In Namibia:
Sossusvlei is amazing. Definitely go up one of the dunes - you can see for ages. Be careful about the closing times- we nearly got locked out of the park and drove at break-neck speed over potholed roads to get out in time. I don't reccomend that part. You're not allowed in at sunset or sunrise IIRC unless you're part of a tour, but try to go in the earlier morning or late afternoon - you'll get that beautiful stark light and shadow. The strudel place is fun, definitely a guide-book draw. Watch out for the SPARROWS! I put my cake down first, trying not to spill my coffee, and the little buggers had eaten about a third of it in those few seconds. They are ruthless.
South of Sossusvlei several hours, but still within the Namib-Nakluft National Park area, there's an abandoned german diamond mining town called Luderitz. It's amazing - the dunes have overrun the town, breaking windows spilling in through walls. It was a very desolate, beautiful feel. It's a bit far south, but really neat. Maybe not so appealing if you're very familiar with ghost towns, but it was just stunning. If you drive, just driving between Sossusvlei and Swakopmund was amazing - beautiful downs-like rolling hills, but sort of inverted. It's hard to describe, but awesome. Swakopmund itself was not that exciting, but you can drive an ATV around the sand dunes, which is pretty fun, and see the caches of horse bones from the German army's expedition/genocide in Namibia in the 1910's.
Tywfelfontein is pretty neat - it's a huge collection of rock carvings. It's a wonderful day or halfday trip to break up the driving, and it's closer to Etosha than the other things.
I just loved the landscape in Namibia - we spent so much time just stopped in the middle of the road, staring at the landscape and taking photos. I grew up in New Jersey, so that kind of sparse landscape is really alien and appealing for me. Again, depending on the landscape in your parts of Australia, desert scrubland might not be as exciting. So let me once again entice you to Okavango - it's so lush and green and totally different.
OK! So, this is a long, long essay. I loved Namibia and Botwana - please contact me if you have any questions! I'd love to reminisce.
posted by foodmapper at 9:12 PM on January 12, 2010 [1 favorite]
Best answer: When I was in the Okavango Delta--for a two-day mokoro trip--I had close encounters with elephants on foot, ran away from hippos (it was dark, so I don't know if they were really chasing me--but it felt that way), and saw all manner of other wildlife--although mostly on the hikes we took rather than from the mokoro. Lots of great birdlife visible during the mokoro trip itself.
The landscape is totally different from the parts of Namibia most people visit: much more water, and hence different plants and different wildlife. I had much less luck seeing hippos and elephants elsewhere in Namibia, even in dry-season Etosha--except at the artificial waterholes, which can feel like cheating. By contrast, they're much more common in Bots (elephants in Chobe are apparently so common as to be a nuisance).
The Crazy Kudu/Wild Dog Safari deal--they're the biggest tour company in the country--is pretty good, and most people I know who've gone with that outfit have enjoyed it (as did I). The only downside to the two week North/South trip I took (my Delta trip was a separate affair) was the "Himba Village" afternoon.
If you have the time I'd go for the Delta as well (and Vic Falls if you can manage it, although that'd be stretching your budget and schedule a good deal further).
I would add that when I've asked experienced Namibia hands what their favorite part of the country is, most name Northern Damaraland/the Kaokoveld up in the northwest, which is out of the way of most touring companies.
For general Namibia touring info, the Bradt Guide is the best I've seen. You can also mefimail me, if you like. I lived there for a year and have quite a few opinions about places to stay, things to do, things to skip, etc.
posted by col_pogo at 4:55 AM on January 13, 2010
The landscape is totally different from the parts of Namibia most people visit: much more water, and hence different plants and different wildlife. I had much less luck seeing hippos and elephants elsewhere in Namibia, even in dry-season Etosha--except at the artificial waterholes, which can feel like cheating. By contrast, they're much more common in Bots (elephants in Chobe are apparently so common as to be a nuisance).
The Crazy Kudu/Wild Dog Safari deal--they're the biggest tour company in the country--is pretty good, and most people I know who've gone with that outfit have enjoyed it (as did I). The only downside to the two week North/South trip I took (my Delta trip was a separate affair) was the "Himba Village" afternoon.
If you have the time I'd go for the Delta as well (and Vic Falls if you can manage it, although that'd be stretching your budget and schedule a good deal further).
I would add that when I've asked experienced Namibia hands what their favorite part of the country is, most name Northern Damaraland/the Kaokoveld up in the northwest, which is out of the way of most touring companies.
For general Namibia touring info, the Bradt Guide is the best I've seen. You can also mefimail me, if you like. I lived there for a year and have quite a few opinions about places to stay, things to do, things to skip, etc.
posted by col_pogo at 4:55 AM on January 13, 2010
Best answer: Oh, and as someone who's noticed a lot of similarities between western (ie Twyfelfontein) and southern Namibia--apart from the dunes at Sossusvlei--and the American southwest, do make sure that the areas you're visiting won't be disappointingly similar to things you might know from Australia (big red rocks, that kind of thing). Most Americans who've been to the Grand Canyon can get away with skipping Fish River Canyon, for instance--dunno if Australia has something similar.
(The duneswept ghosttown of Kolmanskop and dolphins off of Luederitz are something special, however, and I hear that the Sperrgebiet national park, which De Beers/Namdeb kindly kept free of intruders for a century or so, is remarkable. Oh, and if they have big rains this year you might get a blooming desert down south full of all sorts of rare and wonderful succulents and flowers. So the south isn't just rocks...)
posted by col_pogo at 5:03 AM on January 13, 2010
(The duneswept ghosttown of Kolmanskop and dolphins off of Luederitz are something special, however, and I hear that the Sperrgebiet national park, which De Beers/Namdeb kindly kept free of intruders for a century or so, is remarkable. Oh, and if they have big rains this year you might get a blooming desert down south full of all sorts of rare and wonderful succulents and flowers. So the south isn't just rocks...)
posted by col_pogo at 5:03 AM on January 13, 2010
Best answer: I spent a few months on Namibia for work and went to the Delta region after wards.
I would gladly give as much details as you care for if you contact me directly. IN general I would say that the trip to the Delta was one of the greatest experiences in my life. I saw pretty much everything I wanted to see while staying at the Moremi preserve.
As far as Namibia is concerned, I did not get to the north, but had extensive touring gin the south and I am afraid to say, if you are not driving, it might be hard to see on your own. There were many tour buses in the areas I was in (Windhoek and south and west) There are few paved roads, and plenty of gravel. People drive really fast on the gravel because of the vast distances and I saw more than my share of accidents.
The skeleton Coast is possibly one of the great coastlines in the world.
Again, contact me if you like, no matter what you will have an amazing trip, that much I can say for sure.
posted by silsurf at 12:05 PM on January 13, 2010
I would gladly give as much details as you care for if you contact me directly. IN general I would say that the trip to the Delta was one of the greatest experiences in my life. I saw pretty much everything I wanted to see while staying at the Moremi preserve.
As far as Namibia is concerned, I did not get to the north, but had extensive touring gin the south and I am afraid to say, if you are not driving, it might be hard to see on your own. There were many tour buses in the areas I was in (Windhoek and south and west) There are few paved roads, and plenty of gravel. People drive really fast on the gravel because of the vast distances and I saw more than my share of accidents.
The skeleton Coast is possibly one of the great coastlines in the world.
Again, contact me if you like, no matter what you will have an amazing trip, that much I can say for sure.
posted by silsurf at 12:05 PM on January 13, 2010
Response by poster: I just want to thank everyone for their thoughtful, in-depth responses, I really appreciate it. It's so hard parsing the right kind of information sometimes but you have all given some terrific advice - much appreciated. :)
posted by smoke at 4:19 PM on January 13, 2010
posted by smoke at 4:19 PM on January 13, 2010
This thread is closed to new comments.
It is incredible. You could splurge and stay at Drotsky's, head out on a boat tour of the Delta to see some of the rare birds, crocs, hippos (from a safe distance) and so much more. Depending on how you feel about factory farming, you can check out the Krocovango crocodile farm.
In Maun there are numerous safari trips to see elephants and lions or visit the local park to see zebra, giraffe, warthogs etc.
The main highways in Botswana are not that bad. I highly recommend a hearty vehicle if you're getting off any major stretches of roads as most of the side roads are packed sand (bring extra coolant and water).
Feel free to PM if you want any more information.
posted by purephase at 7:02 PM on January 12, 2010