Stop the water rot!
August 9, 2007 6:14 PM Subscribe
Protecting a hex sign, help!
My family gave me two hex signs. They're 18 inches in diameter, painted on 1/8" Masonite. I was not enthusiastic about nailing them up to my shed, I thought they would be destroyed by the weather.
So I took them to Kinkos and had them laminated. No problem, and I'm not that worried about UV, they won't be in direct sunlight.
But now I'm looking at the edges, which are unprotected.
Any ideas on waterproofing the edges? I thought about plastic molding (as used on car doors) but I don't think they will bend in a circle.
My family gave me two hex signs. They're 18 inches in diameter, painted on 1/8" Masonite. I was not enthusiastic about nailing them up to my shed, I thought they would be destroyed by the weather.
So I took them to Kinkos and had them laminated. No problem, and I'm not that worried about UV, they won't be in direct sunlight.
But now I'm looking at the edges, which are unprotected.
Any ideas on waterproofing the edges? I thought about plastic molding (as used on car doors) but I don't think they will bend in a circle.
Polyurethane?
posted by brain cloud at 6:46 PM on August 9, 2007
posted by brain cloud at 6:46 PM on August 9, 2007
For this exact purpose, there's something sign makers use on vinyl-laminated wooden signs called trim cap. Hardware stores carry various similar vinyl materials. It's a vinyl or plastic strip of "channel", meaning it's long and thin but in the shape of a "U" when looked at down its length (the way an I-beam looks like an "I" down its length.)
If you can find "channel" or "trim cap" that has a "U" close to the same width (well, depth) as your hex signs, you can buy a couple pieces for about a couple bucks, run them around the perimeter of each sign, then use a silicone caulk to seal them (and maybe some epoxy or a finishing nail or staple before the caulk to hold it in place.)
Any small local sign shop is also likely to have trim cap they might sell you cheap as a favor, if you're nice, which (which being niceness), makes the world just go 'round and 'round. I'd bring the hex signs right in to the shop.
posted by Shane at 6:53 PM on August 9, 2007
If you can find "channel" or "trim cap" that has a "U" close to the same width (well, depth) as your hex signs, you can buy a couple pieces for about a couple bucks, run them around the perimeter of each sign, then use a silicone caulk to seal them (and maybe some epoxy or a finishing nail or staple before the caulk to hold it in place.)
Any small local sign shop is also likely to have trim cap they might sell you cheap as a favor, if you're nice, which (which being niceness), makes the world just go 'round and 'round. I'd bring the hex signs right in to the shop.
posted by Shane at 6:53 PM on August 9, 2007
The above answer also indicates you were right on track when considering plastic molding, making your question a candidate for your best answer.
;-)
posted by Shane at 6:58 PM on August 9, 2007
;-)
posted by Shane at 6:58 PM on August 9, 2007
I've worked with a lot of laminating in the past, and if you cut to the edge of the item it looks nice but becomes open to water. Even a hole punched through where the paper is becomes an entry point.
Get them relaminated, and make sure there is an overhang of laminate about 5mm - (1/5" ) around the edge which is sealed together. The wider the better.
If you nail them up, put the nails through the overhang rather than the item itself.
posted by tomble at 7:23 PM on August 9, 2007
Get them relaminated, and make sure there is an overhang of laminate about 5mm - (1/5" ) around the edge which is sealed together. The wider the better.
If you nail them up, put the nails through the overhang rather than the item itself.
posted by tomble at 7:23 PM on August 9, 2007
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posted by metahawk at 6:16 PM on August 9, 2007