Decent bike for ~$300?
June 3, 2007 3:23 AM Subscribe
Decent bike for ~$300? Cheapest local bike store bike, or the most expensive Target one?
My employer is offering to reimburse me up to $300 for getting a bike, and I would like to take advantage of that. I live really close to work (~2.5 miles), and I'd plan to bike to work, as well as go for rides for exercise and fun. Spending significantly more than $300 isn't really an option, since I live in an area where bikes (or parts of bikes) get stolen regularly, and I'd rather not invest too much into something I may not use due to laziness anyways.
For $300, it looks I can get some very entry level bikes at a local bike store, or a nice-looking bike at Target. I've heard (and some previous ask-mefi questions have suggested) that any LBS bike is better than a department store bike, but it sounds like all those claims are "a $500 LBS bike is better than a $100 Wal-Mart bike." For my price range, what are my best options? And what is it that makes department store bikes so bad? The "assembled by low-skill workers" isn't a big concern for me as I'm fairly handy with my hands and can fix things up; I am more concerned about the quality of parts.
My employer is offering to reimburse me up to $300 for getting a bike, and I would like to take advantage of that. I live really close to work (~2.5 miles), and I'd plan to bike to work, as well as go for rides for exercise and fun. Spending significantly more than $300 isn't really an option, since I live in an area where bikes (or parts of bikes) get stolen regularly, and I'd rather not invest too much into something I may not use due to laziness anyways.
For $300, it looks I can get some very entry level bikes at a local bike store, or a nice-looking bike at Target. I've heard (and some previous ask-mefi questions have suggested) that any LBS bike is better than a department store bike, but it sounds like all those claims are "a $500 LBS bike is better than a $100 Wal-Mart bike." For my price range, what are my best options? And what is it that makes department store bikes so bad? The "assembled by low-skill workers" isn't a big concern for me as I'm fairly handy with my hands and can fix things up; I am more concerned about the quality of parts.
Response by poster: I would certainly get a used bike if I could, but I've got the feeling that reimbursement for a bike bought from an individual won't fly, since I couldn't get a valid receipt. I'll check w/ my employer's benefits people.
posted by bsdfish at 3:37 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by bsdfish at 3:37 AM on June 3, 2007
I just bought two bikes at my local bike store (Chicago area). Both sold decent used bikes, and would obviously give you a receipt. I would not give up on the used bike route.
The used bike offerings were pretty good. Plus you have the added 'bonus' of the used bikes being more 'stealthy' to thieves. A friend of mine even added some duck tape and crap to make his bike look more trashy.
posted by rryan at 3:51 AM on June 3, 2007
The used bike offerings were pretty good. Plus you have the added 'bonus' of the used bikes being more 'stealthy' to thieves. A friend of mine even added some duck tape and crap to make his bike look more trashy.
posted by rryan at 3:51 AM on June 3, 2007
Two years ago, I bought a Fuji Crosstown for $250 from a local bike shop. I am still happy with it (though it has had its share of minor problems). I'm not recommending that bike specifically; but a $300 new bike is not necessarily going to be a bad bike.
I'd go with a bike shop, personally; even if you can fix things up, it's less of a hassle for them not to come apart in the first place, and a good bike shop will help get the bike properly fitted to you.
A cursory look at the high-end bikes on the Target web page seems to indicate that most of those bikes are more expensive because they have the right look, not because they're actually decent bikes, and I'm concerned-- completely speculating here -- that they have the same low quality as the $150 bikes, just dressed up pretty.
If you're not going to go used, a cheaper new bike from a bike store is not at all a bad option.
posted by Jeanne at 4:23 AM on June 3, 2007
I'd go with a bike shop, personally; even if you can fix things up, it's less of a hassle for them not to come apart in the first place, and a good bike shop will help get the bike properly fitted to you.
A cursory look at the high-end bikes on the Target web page seems to indicate that most of those bikes are more expensive because they have the right look, not because they're actually decent bikes, and I'm concerned-- completely speculating here -- that they have the same low quality as the $150 bikes, just dressed up pretty.
If you're not going to go used, a cheaper new bike from a bike store is not at all a bad option.
posted by Jeanne at 4:23 AM on June 3, 2007
I picked up a Trek 4300 for $250 from a local bike shop not too long ago. The reasons for that price: end of season (bike bought in September), hideous color scheme, and odd size.
So you can get a nice bike for $300 or less. Also, the nice thing about buying from a local bike shop is that many of them will include free tune-ups as long as you own the bike, something you don't get with a bicycle from Target.
posted by needled at 4:37 AM on June 3, 2007
So you can get a nice bike for $300 or less. Also, the nice thing about buying from a local bike shop is that many of them will include free tune-ups as long as you own the bike, something you don't get with a bicycle from Target.
posted by needled at 4:37 AM on June 3, 2007
Go with the bike shop, particularly if you can find one where the people treat you well. Something to keep in mind is that all bikes are delivered to stores in a box still requiring some assembly. The bike shop bikes are put together buy a bike mechanic, the Target bikes are put together by some kid who usually packs shelves.
posted by markr at 4:39 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by markr at 4:39 AM on June 3, 2007
I strongly urge you to go to a local bike shop rather than a department store. Department store bikes are put together by people who are not bike mechanics. Bikes at a LBS, on the other hand, are put together by mechanics, and generally a purchase at a LBS comes with a free tune-up or two (it varies by shop, of course).
Low end bikes are bike shops are generally made to last under casual riding. The same just cannot be said about department store bikes. You will buy it twice if you buy department store.
There are other options. Craigslist is one - you can find really good deals on great bikes on Craigslist. You can also find lots and lots of people hawking barely-working pieces of crap for ten times what they are worth, and knowing how to tell the difference takes a bit of an experienced eye - not to mention knowing how, at a glance, to tell if something is close to the right size.
Is there a bike co-op in your town or city? Many cities have volunteer-run co-ops that sell cheap refurbished/salvage bikes. Poke around on websites for Times-Up in NYC, Bicycle Kitchen in LA - maybe there are enough links to get you started, or to find someplace similar close to home.
Don't forget, though, that a good locking strategy really can deter theft. Ask a shop to change the quick-release seatbolt to a bolt-on. Always, always, always lock up both wheels - this can be done with a large U-Lock. Buy a good lock - like Kryptonite's STD New York City U-lock. With a quick release lever on the front wheel, you just have to pop off the front wheel and you can lock up front, rear, and bike frame. There is also the option of spending some money on locking skewers to replace the quick-release skewers.
posted by entropone at 6:21 AM on June 3, 2007
Low end bikes are bike shops are generally made to last under casual riding. The same just cannot be said about department store bikes. You will buy it twice if you buy department store.
There are other options. Craigslist is one - you can find really good deals on great bikes on Craigslist. You can also find lots and lots of people hawking barely-working pieces of crap for ten times what they are worth, and knowing how to tell the difference takes a bit of an experienced eye - not to mention knowing how, at a glance, to tell if something is close to the right size.
Is there a bike co-op in your town or city? Many cities have volunteer-run co-ops that sell cheap refurbished/salvage bikes. Poke around on websites for Times-Up in NYC, Bicycle Kitchen in LA - maybe there are enough links to get you started, or to find someplace similar close to home.
Don't forget, though, that a good locking strategy really can deter theft. Ask a shop to change the quick-release seatbolt to a bolt-on. Always, always, always lock up both wheels - this can be done with a large U-Lock. Buy a good lock - like Kryptonite's STD New York City U-lock. With a quick release lever on the front wheel, you just have to pop off the front wheel and you can lock up front, rear, and bike frame. There is also the option of spending some money on locking skewers to replace the quick-release skewers.
posted by entropone at 6:21 AM on June 3, 2007
I'm glad you've chose to reduce your risk of succumbing to cardiac mortality. You're very lucky to have an employer who is so supportive.
1. Go to BikeForums and do research on the different types of bikes, and find out which one interests you: mountian bike, road bike, hybrid, cyclocross, commuting, folding, recumbent, etc. Familiarize yourself with the technicalities of the biking world so you know when you're getting a good deal or not. Know the major brands and component manufacturers.
2. Measure yourself so you know how big of a bike you need. The technicalities of bicycle fitting are too confusing for me to go through them here. Sheldon Brown, if you google his name, has a fairly encyclopaedic website on bicycles.
3. Check out your local craigslist for second hand bicycles. Look on Ebay, call your local police auction, visit some bike shops that sell used bikes.
4. Find one you like. I recommend a second hand road bike or cyclocross bike. They handle pretty well as long as there is pavement. I think mountain bikes are unecessarily heavy, and their fat tires really bog you down. I'm lazy.
5. Purchase the bike, and if you didn't buy it from a bike store, take it to one and have it tuned and fitted. Pick up a helmet, a lock, some chain lube, panniers (bags that go on either side of your back tire), and a bicycle repair tool set.
Notes:
*Stay away from chain retailers like Target. They are evil. Their nice looking bikes really suck, they offer no post purchase support, they do a crappy job of putting the bike together in the first place.
*Don't get a mountain bike - they're made for off road use, and riding one on a street is silly. Just because everyone and their grandma has one of these 40 pound hulks, doesn't mean you need to jump on the band wagon too.
*Lube your bike regularly, and don't leave it out in the rain.
*Don't lock your bike to itself. Always lock it to a stationary object.
*Have fun, and look out for road kill.
posted by BeaverTerror at 6:27 AM on June 3, 2007
1. Go to BikeForums and do research on the different types of bikes, and find out which one interests you: mountian bike, road bike, hybrid, cyclocross, commuting, folding, recumbent, etc. Familiarize yourself with the technicalities of the biking world so you know when you're getting a good deal or not. Know the major brands and component manufacturers.
2. Measure yourself so you know how big of a bike you need. The technicalities of bicycle fitting are too confusing for me to go through them here. Sheldon Brown, if you google his name, has a fairly encyclopaedic website on bicycles.
3. Check out your local craigslist for second hand bicycles. Look on Ebay, call your local police auction, visit some bike shops that sell used bikes.
4. Find one you like. I recommend a second hand road bike or cyclocross bike. They handle pretty well as long as there is pavement. I think mountain bikes are unecessarily heavy, and their fat tires really bog you down. I'm lazy.
5. Purchase the bike, and if you didn't buy it from a bike store, take it to one and have it tuned and fitted. Pick up a helmet, a lock, some chain lube, panniers (bags that go on either side of your back tire), and a bicycle repair tool set.
Notes:
*Stay away from chain retailers like Target. They are evil. Their nice looking bikes really suck, they offer no post purchase support, they do a crappy job of putting the bike together in the first place.
*Don't get a mountain bike - they're made for off road use, and riding one on a street is silly. Just because everyone and their grandma has one of these 40 pound hulks, doesn't mean you need to jump on the band wagon too.
*Lube your bike regularly, and don't leave it out in the rain.
*Don't lock your bike to itself. Always lock it to a stationary object.
*Have fun, and look out for road kill.
posted by BeaverTerror at 6:27 AM on June 3, 2007
I'm like you -- bike novice, now a happy bike commuter. You want to go to your local bike store and buy a good used bike. Tell them what you want to spend and what you'll be using it for and they'll take it from there. I spent about $250 two years ago and have been taking my steed back and forth to work, and all over town, ever since.
posted by escabeche at 7:21 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by escabeche at 7:21 AM on June 3, 2007
I'd have to disagree with the comments above. Manufacturing improvements affect all levels of bicycle, from very cheap to very expensive. A cheap new bike bought today is probably a better bike than an expensive one bought ten years ago. It'll be heavier than a really expensive bike, because it'll be made of steel rather than carbon-fiber, but other than that, the construction will be extremely similar.
Besides frame material, an expensive bike is not significantly different than a fairly cheap one. And if it gets stolen/run over/destroyed, you can buy three new ones and still have spent less than you'd spend on a single expensive bike. The only reason NOT to buy from a department store is that it's usually hard to test-drive bikes there.
posted by jellicle at 7:27 AM on June 3, 2007
Besides frame material, an expensive bike is not significantly different than a fairly cheap one. And if it gets stolen/run over/destroyed, you can buy three new ones and still have spent less than you'd spend on a single expensive bike. The only reason NOT to buy from a department store is that it's usually hard to test-drive bikes there.
posted by jellicle at 7:27 AM on June 3, 2007
i swear i'm the worst team member at target, but whenever i see people considering buying a $300 schwinn from us i usually recommend they get themselves to a bike store and just get a low-end gary fisher or one of the other higher-tier brands for that price.
for what it's worth department store bikes ARE put together by bike mechanics, however they are paid to build as many bikes as possible, not to do a quality job. the only time i recommend buying bikes from department stores is if you're buying the cheapest bike available because it will eventually end up getting left out in the rain or you're buying one for a kid who's going to drop it in the mud or otherwise trash it.
furthermore you'll get more for your money at a bike store. schwinn is hardly the pinnacle of bicycle quality now that they got bought out by some chinese company.
posted by Ziggy Zaga at 7:37 AM on June 3, 2007 [1 favorite]
for what it's worth department store bikes ARE put together by bike mechanics, however they are paid to build as many bikes as possible, not to do a quality job. the only time i recommend buying bikes from department stores is if you're buying the cheapest bike available because it will eventually end up getting left out in the rain or you're buying one for a kid who's going to drop it in the mud or otherwise trash it.
furthermore you'll get more for your money at a bike store. schwinn is hardly the pinnacle of bicycle quality now that they got bought out by some chinese company.
posted by Ziggy Zaga at 7:37 AM on June 3, 2007 [1 favorite]
I'm going to nth the other suggestions of looking used. Depending on where you are you may not find anything, but I found a bike for about 200 bucks that isn't pretty to look at, but is a much nicer ride, with better components, than a department store bike.
Also, as Beaver mentioned, get a road bike. SO much nicer when riding in an urban environment, and they make riding on asphalt an addictive experience. Or if you do get a mountain bike, don't get full suspension or something crazy like that... you'll end up wasting a ton of energy.
And buy it someplace you can take a nice test ride... that's the number 1 reason I like the ol' LBS.
posted by selfnoise at 7:38 AM on June 3, 2007
Also, as Beaver mentioned, get a road bike. SO much nicer when riding in an urban environment, and they make riding on asphalt an addictive experience. Or if you do get a mountain bike, don't get full suspension or something crazy like that... you'll end up wasting a ton of energy.
And buy it someplace you can take a nice test ride... that's the number 1 reason I like the ol' LBS.
posted by selfnoise at 7:38 AM on June 3, 2007
Also if the bike looks like shit, but performs great (my bike looks terrible) it will be an "expensive" ride that doesn't get stolen, most likely.
posted by selfnoise at 7:40 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by selfnoise at 7:40 AM on June 3, 2007
Jellicle is patently wrong. A bicycle is a complex machine, and benefits from good parts and good assembly. A cheap, crappy bike will only reinforce your assumptions that all bikes are either cheap crap or expensive crap. (Some authoritative words from Sheldon Brown, the sage of bicycling, on Department store bicycles.)
In the frame, there is quality of material (there are different grades of steel, of aluminum, and of carbon fiber), quality of assembly, and how appropriate the proportions are to your body shape and riding style.
The components can be well- or poorly-adjusted, work reliably or not, be suitable or not.
As an example, A flexy brake will not stop you well from full speed. It may not stop you at all. The brakes on department store bikes are uniformly cheap stamped potmetal steel. You can bend them with a small wrench. It does not stand a chance against the mass of your mature adult's body while hurtling down a hillside.
The store you buy at matters. Nobody you see at a department store knows how to assemble a bike. They aren't paid to put in the time necessary. They couldn't tell you how to maintain it. If they cared about bikes, they'd be working somewhere more personally satisfying than Target. They believe that one size of bike fits all as long as you raise the seatpost. A bike shop will find a bike that fits you, and hopefully steer you away from some that won't do what you've told the clerk you want to do. (Used bikes can be fantastic bargains, or no bargain at all if you don't know what to look for. Buy your first bike at a store, do your homework, and buy your second bike used.)
A lot of bike shops get slammed for snobbery. It's sometimes justified. But many times it's because customers only know about bikes through heresay, youtube videos, and Lance Armstrong, and are unwilling to deal with the thresholds of physical condition and equipment appropriate to live their dreams.
Stand a bike store bike you can afford next to the best department store bike you can find. Ask a knowledgeable person to point out the differences to you. Be especially happy if you're aimed at a commuter or hybrid bike rather than a racer or mountain bike, because that may be what you need. It should take fenders, so you can ride when the road's wet. Room for lights, so you can ride at twilight. And so on.
posted by ardgedee at 7:59 AM on June 3, 2007
In the frame, there is quality of material (there are different grades of steel, of aluminum, and of carbon fiber), quality of assembly, and how appropriate the proportions are to your body shape and riding style.
The components can be well- or poorly-adjusted, work reliably or not, be suitable or not.
As an example, A flexy brake will not stop you well from full speed. It may not stop you at all. The brakes on department store bikes are uniformly cheap stamped potmetal steel. You can bend them with a small wrench. It does not stand a chance against the mass of your mature adult's body while hurtling down a hillside.
The store you buy at matters. Nobody you see at a department store knows how to assemble a bike. They aren't paid to put in the time necessary. They couldn't tell you how to maintain it. If they cared about bikes, they'd be working somewhere more personally satisfying than Target. They believe that one size of bike fits all as long as you raise the seatpost. A bike shop will find a bike that fits you, and hopefully steer you away from some that won't do what you've told the clerk you want to do. (Used bikes can be fantastic bargains, or no bargain at all if you don't know what to look for. Buy your first bike at a store, do your homework, and buy your second bike used.)
A lot of bike shops get slammed for snobbery. It's sometimes justified. But many times it's because customers only know about bikes through heresay, youtube videos, and Lance Armstrong, and are unwilling to deal with the thresholds of physical condition and equipment appropriate to live their dreams.
Stand a bike store bike you can afford next to the best department store bike you can find. Ask a knowledgeable person to point out the differences to you. Be especially happy if you're aimed at a commuter or hybrid bike rather than a racer or mountain bike, because that may be what you need. It should take fenders, so you can ride when the road's wet. Room for lights, so you can ride at twilight. And so on.
posted by ardgedee at 7:59 AM on June 3, 2007
You could see if there is something like working bikes in your area - it's a Chicago nonprofit that fixes up donated and salvaged bikes for sale at totally reasonable prices. They have everything from $40 beaters to nice bikes in the $150 range.
posted by true at 8:18 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by true at 8:18 AM on June 3, 2007
Nthing the "avoid a mountain bike" comments. Mountain bikes became so "in" that for a long time you couldn't find anything else in the el-cheapo range, which is where I shop, so I bought one. (A few actually). I got so frustrated that I stopped riding for a while. I couldn't figure out why it seemed so difficult to ride a bike around town. I knew I was older and a little heavier, but it felt like I was riding with a flat all the time. It finally clicked (duh) that riding on the street with big nobby tires on a heavy bike was obviously not what I needed to do. So I started my search for an old-school "10-speed" or what are now called "road bikes." Now, a year later, I am looking to buy a hybrid, or a commuter bike, because I want a more upright position. (See my recent AskMe.)
As far as where to buy... I would also recommend a bike store, and a used bike if possible. However, I have to confess that my bike is a cheap one I actually got form Toys R Us. I went there for something else, and there they had a 10-speed road bike. I knew the quality wouldn't be up to bike store standards. It was originally $200, but was clearanced for just $50! How could I pass it up. I adjusted everything, since it was not put together very well, and, aside from the "fit" issue in my AskMe, it has been great. The difference in ride from a mountain bike is like the different between crawling and flying.
So, even though I agree with the bike shop recommendation, I can't say "never ever under any circumstances" to buy from a big box retailer. In my case... I don't go hurdling down hills, I ride about 4 miles each way to work on side streets with no traffic, I average about 15 miles an hour. Plus I knew when I bought it, it was temporary, to see if I liked biking enough to bike to work, and then buy something better later.
In your case, you might also check with some sporting good stores. We have a local big store (Scheels) that has a very extensive bike section with knowledgeable people. It's basically a bike store within a store. Good luck!
posted by The Deej at 8:27 AM on June 3, 2007
As far as where to buy... I would also recommend a bike store, and a used bike if possible. However, I have to confess that my bike is a cheap one I actually got form Toys R Us. I went there for something else, and there they had a 10-speed road bike. I knew the quality wouldn't be up to bike store standards. It was originally $200, but was clearanced for just $50! How could I pass it up. I adjusted everything, since it was not put together very well, and, aside from the "fit" issue in my AskMe, it has been great. The difference in ride from a mountain bike is like the different between crawling and flying.
So, even though I agree with the bike shop recommendation, I can't say "never ever under any circumstances" to buy from a big box retailer. In my case... I don't go hurdling down hills, I ride about 4 miles each way to work on side streets with no traffic, I average about 15 miles an hour. Plus I knew when I bought it, it was temporary, to see if I liked biking enough to bike to work, and then buy something better later.
In your case, you might also check with some sporting good stores. We have a local big store (Scheels) that has a very extensive bike section with knowledgeable people. It's basically a bike store within a store. Good luck!
posted by The Deej at 8:27 AM on June 3, 2007
Bike shops take care in assembling their bikes. If you do end up buying from a big box retailer, please go to a bike shop and make sure it's been assembled correctly.
posted by Phred182 at 8:40 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by Phred182 at 8:40 AM on June 3, 2007
Depends on where you ride, how far you ride, and what your expectations are. I live in the city and use my bike to ride around town. I don't own a car so it's my primary mode of transportation. My priority was cheap - I want to be able to leave it locked up anywhere and if it gets stolen it's no loss. If I'm worried about it getting stolen than I won't ride it as much. I also want to leave it out in the weather. Again, if I'm worried about it getting rústy I won't use it as much.
I bought a cheap made-in-Taiwan mountain/city bike for the equivalent of about 200 US. My thought was that the heavy frame was better to hold a lock and the extra weight makes riding it a better work-out. I replaced the knobby tires with smooth tread and I bought the most expensive lock I could.
I've had it for ten years, ride it everyday, leave it out in the snow and rain. It looks like hell, but it gets me around. Nothing I like more than pedaling past some clown with on his 1000 dollar Specalized.
posted by three blind mice at 8:46 AM on June 3, 2007
I bought a cheap made-in-Taiwan mountain/city bike for the equivalent of about 200 US. My thought was that the heavy frame was better to hold a lock and the extra weight makes riding it a better work-out. I replaced the knobby tires with smooth tread and I bought the most expensive lock I could.
I've had it for ten years, ride it everyday, leave it out in the snow and rain. It looks like hell, but it gets me around. Nothing I like more than pedaling past some clown with on his 1000 dollar Specalized.
posted by three blind mice at 8:46 AM on June 3, 2007
For a cheapo option, do you live near a university? Universities often have a lot of bikes abandoned at the end of the year, or bikes that were seized for being locked in illegal spots and then never claimed. The university police (or similar organization) will often have a once-a-year auction for these bikes where you can get a used bike for $100 or so. Might be worth looking into.
posted by LobsterMitten at 8:47 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by LobsterMitten at 8:47 AM on June 3, 2007
Along the lines of LobsterMitten's suggestion: police auction.
posted by The Deej at 8:51 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by The Deej at 8:51 AM on June 3, 2007
ardgedee: "Jellicle is patently wrong. A bicycle is a complex machine, and benefits from good parts and good assembly. ...."
This is exactly what I was about to say; improved bike technology has really NOT trickled down to cheap bikes. Also, what jellicle said might have been true 5-10 years ago, but it's pretty hard to find a low-end steel bike nowadays. (Or at least, one that will be rideable). About 7-8 years ago, aluminum took over the low-end bike market.
I'm going to ditto what everyone said: definitely look used if you can. If not, go with the local bike shop. You could, if it's geographically convenient, consider something like Performance Bicycle instead, which is a large bicycle retailer. They won't be as knowledgable as a GOOD LBS, but they're really not bad, and their prices are often good if you keep an eye on their website for sales.
For all the reasons above, you should definitely avoid the K-Mart/Target/etc. bikes; they're just not good and won't hold up. At all.
As far as more specific advice goes, the Giant "lifestyle" bikes seem to give fairly decent components for the money. (Or at least they used to- I haven't taken the time to look at them.) You might check them out on Giant's website.
posted by JMOZ at 9:11 AM on June 3, 2007
This is exactly what I was about to say; improved bike technology has really NOT trickled down to cheap bikes. Also, what jellicle said might have been true 5-10 years ago, but it's pretty hard to find a low-end steel bike nowadays. (Or at least, one that will be rideable). About 7-8 years ago, aluminum took over the low-end bike market.
I'm going to ditto what everyone said: definitely look used if you can. If not, go with the local bike shop. You could, if it's geographically convenient, consider something like Performance Bicycle instead, which is a large bicycle retailer. They won't be as knowledgable as a GOOD LBS, but they're really not bad, and their prices are often good if you keep an eye on their website for sales.
For all the reasons above, you should definitely avoid the K-Mart/Target/etc. bikes; they're just not good and won't hold up. At all.
As far as more specific advice goes, the Giant "lifestyle" bikes seem to give fairly decent components for the money. (Or at least they used to- I haven't taken the time to look at them.) You might check them out on Giant's website.
posted by JMOZ at 9:11 AM on June 3, 2007
My first instinct is to page Wendell. Seriously, the Target vs. LBS (local bike shop) holy war is fought by zealots, so advice can be a bit one-sided. Just keep that in mind.
I happen to be of the opinion that you can find very good values in department store bikes, if you know A LOT about bikes and consider how and how much the bike will be used. I don't think that's the best choice for you, though, for a couple of reasons.
2.5 miles each way is not that far, and pretty much any bike can do that. The thing is, if it's no fun to ride then that's probably all you're going to do with it. And eventually you'll be looking for excuses to not even do that. So at the very least you want to be able to take your candidates out for a test spin. I don't think Target lets you do that so that's one strike against them. And a good LBS will try to put you on something that fits you well, which isn't always obvious to an untrained eye or rider, btw.
Next criterion: ongoing support. Daily riders can require a lot of adjustment, even if you just do short trips. And things break and wear out -- that's just how bikes are. A good LBS will offer ongoing support. Target will not.
IMO probably best option: used bike from good LBS. The key word here is "good." Look for a place run by old-timers who aren't in it to rip you off. Be suspect of any place too eager to make a sale or that exists to cater to wannabe racers. I usually find the shiny places to be the worst about this. A little disorder, maybe with a bit of grime is usually a good sign. If their clientele includes a lot of commuters that's excellent. Also look for a place that isn't going to nickel-and-dime you on adjustments. Again, the shiny places are usually worst there too.
Re: Mountain bike hate: We don't know much about your intended route so I wouldn't categorically rule out mountain bikes. They tend to have wider gear ranges, which can be handy if you will be climbing hills, especially with a load. They're good on variable road surfaces too. What you want to be wary of at this price range, though, is anything with a rear suspension -- even the best ones are inefficient overkill and too heavy for street riding, and those cost ~ $1000 and up. The less expensive ones are IMO a waste of money and effort on the trails as well as the roads.
Front suspension is more a matter of personal taste but here's my take: You might find a decent suspension fork on a used bike for that price but I'd go for a rigid front fork: it'll make the bike much less attractive to thieves, it's one less thing to break and most lower-priced suspension forks are a bit clunky. Then again, I prefer a firm ride. Having said all that, it's getting close to impossible to find a new bike in that range without a suspension fork.
If you do end up with a mountain bike you will almost certainly want to get skinnier tires, with little to no tread. This will help your riding tremendously. Look for "urban" tires with thicker/more durable construction (kewl, Kevlar!) if you're going to be riding in areas with a lot of road debris.
If you're going to be riding in flattish terrain, I'd steer you to something with fewer speeds and/or internal hub gearing (but with hand brakes) just because you can almost ignore maintenance with 'em and they'll keep going. Also IMO they're less likely to get stolen.
Good luck and have fun!
posted by Opposite George at 9:56 AM on June 3, 2007
I happen to be of the opinion that you can find very good values in department store bikes, if you know A LOT about bikes and consider how and how much the bike will be used. I don't think that's the best choice for you, though, for a couple of reasons.
2.5 miles each way is not that far, and pretty much any bike can do that. The thing is, if it's no fun to ride then that's probably all you're going to do with it. And eventually you'll be looking for excuses to not even do that. So at the very least you want to be able to take your candidates out for a test spin. I don't think Target lets you do that so that's one strike against them. And a good LBS will try to put you on something that fits you well, which isn't always obvious to an untrained eye or rider, btw.
Next criterion: ongoing support. Daily riders can require a lot of adjustment, even if you just do short trips. And things break and wear out -- that's just how bikes are. A good LBS will offer ongoing support. Target will not.
IMO probably best option: used bike from good LBS. The key word here is "good." Look for a place run by old-timers who aren't in it to rip you off. Be suspect of any place too eager to make a sale or that exists to cater to wannabe racers. I usually find the shiny places to be the worst about this. A little disorder, maybe with a bit of grime is usually a good sign. If their clientele includes a lot of commuters that's excellent. Also look for a place that isn't going to nickel-and-dime you on adjustments. Again, the shiny places are usually worst there too.
Re: Mountain bike hate: We don't know much about your intended route so I wouldn't categorically rule out mountain bikes. They tend to have wider gear ranges, which can be handy if you will be climbing hills, especially with a load. They're good on variable road surfaces too. What you want to be wary of at this price range, though, is anything with a rear suspension -- even the best ones are inefficient overkill and too heavy for street riding, and those cost ~ $1000 and up. The less expensive ones are IMO a waste of money and effort on the trails as well as the roads.
Front suspension is more a matter of personal taste but here's my take: You might find a decent suspension fork on a used bike for that price but I'd go for a rigid front fork: it'll make the bike much less attractive to thieves, it's one less thing to break and most lower-priced suspension forks are a bit clunky. Then again, I prefer a firm ride. Having said all that, it's getting close to impossible to find a new bike in that range without a suspension fork.
If you do end up with a mountain bike you will almost certainly want to get skinnier tires, with little to no tread. This will help your riding tremendously. Look for "urban" tires with thicker/more durable construction (kewl, Kevlar!) if you're going to be riding in areas with a lot of road debris.
If you're going to be riding in flattish terrain, I'd steer you to something with fewer speeds and/or internal hub gearing (but with hand brakes) just because you can almost ignore maintenance with 'em and they'll keep going. Also IMO they're less likely to get stolen.
Good luck and have fun!
posted by Opposite George at 9:56 AM on June 3, 2007
Oh, and to be clearer on the tires thing, those urban tires will be pretty free of tread, too, compared to the knobbies most MBs come with. Knobbies eat speed and pedaling effort for lunch, and are really best for very loose surfaces and other technical trail riding.
posted by Opposite George at 10:03 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by Opposite George at 10:03 AM on June 3, 2007
Nthing the local bike store. Police auctions, bikeforums.net and craigslist are great if you KNOW what you're looking for! Or if you are eager to learn about bikes get your hands dirty. This is the route I've gone down in the last year or so. It's fun, but it's expensive and, at times, frustrating. A $20 craigslist bike probably needs the wheels trued, new brake cables, new brake pads, and god knows what else. It adds up quick, even if you do the work yourself.
If you just want the bike to work, you might be better served by a new bike, or one that has already been overhauled.
There are a few LBS in my area that refurbish and sell used bicycles at or below the $300 mark. Regardless, of what you end up getting they can help you with sizing and adjusting the frame to fit you. There are a plethora of minor adjustments that can take riding your bike from a chore to a joy.
Cursory research suggests that the poster may be in Berkeley, CA. Any MeFites know a good Berkeley bike shop?
I looked at your previous questions... I hope this doesn't creep you out, but it's hard to recommend a local bike store without knowing the locale.
posted by clockwork at 10:56 AM on June 3, 2007
If you just want the bike to work, you might be better served by a new bike, or one that has already been overhauled.
There are a few LBS in my area that refurbish and sell used bicycles at or below the $300 mark. Regardless, of what you end up getting they can help you with sizing and adjusting the frame to fit you. There are a plethora of minor adjustments that can take riding your bike from a chore to a joy.
Cursory research suggests that the poster may be in Berkeley, CA. Any MeFites know a good Berkeley bike shop?
I looked at your previous questions... I hope this doesn't creep you out, but it's hard to recommend a local bike store without knowing the locale.
posted by clockwork at 10:56 AM on June 3, 2007
Chromoly. There are well made bikes using this that cost around $300, won't bend like aluminum, way lighter than steel, very strong. I can't find a link, but there was a manufacturer previously recommended here who makes a line of chromoly bikes of various styles -- racing, mountain, fixed gear, long distance ...
posted by acro at 11:18 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by acro at 11:18 AM on June 3, 2007
If in the bay area, you might just want to pick one from sfbike's list of bike dealers. I imagine too crappy a place wouldn't bother to be associated with the SF bike association. (The only places I could personally recommend are in mid-peninsula).
posted by R343L at 11:27 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by R343L at 11:27 AM on June 3, 2007
Why you don't want to buy a bicycle from a department store. I remember reading that the reason bike mechanics loathe repairing Walmart bikes is because the components used are sometimes of such terrible quality that it is impossible to adjust them to the proper tension without breaking or stripping the metal. Spend the $300 at the bike shop, it will get you a lot more bike.
posted by hindmost at 11:53 AM on June 3, 2007
posted by hindmost at 11:53 AM on June 3, 2007
acro: "Chromoly. ... way lighter than steel, ...."
While I agree Chromoly is a good choice for you, and also love steel bikes (my road bike is a steel/carbon fiber mix), I just wanted to correct this (seemingly common) misconception: Chromoly is a type of steel. More specifically, it is steel which is alloyed with chromium and molybdenum. It will weigh as much as steel because, well, it is steel...
posted by JMOZ at 12:22 PM on June 3, 2007
While I agree Chromoly is a good choice for you, and also love steel bikes (my road bike is a steel/carbon fiber mix), I just wanted to correct this (seemingly common) misconception: Chromoly is a type of steel. More specifically, it is steel which is alloyed with chromium and molybdenum. It will weigh as much as steel because, well, it is steel...
posted by JMOZ at 12:22 PM on June 3, 2007
Response by poster: Clockwork: I certainly have no objection to you looking at my question history; if I didn't want people to know facts about me, I wouldn't put them on the internet :-p
While I generally live in Berkeley, I'm in Mountain View for a summer internship, and it's my internship employer that's providing the bike reimbursement. So my options are to buy a LBS bike in Mountain View, get everything tuned up and fitted for me, and then take it to Berkeley afterwards, or to go bike shopping in Berkeley so I have the shop I bought from permanently close-by. Shopping in Berkeley is certainly less convenient though, as it's currently ~1hr away.
posted by bsdfish at 12:26 PM on June 3, 2007
While I generally live in Berkeley, I'm in Mountain View for a summer internship, and it's my internship employer that's providing the bike reimbursement. So my options are to buy a LBS bike in Mountain View, get everything tuned up and fitted for me, and then take it to Berkeley afterwards, or to go bike shopping in Berkeley so I have the shop I bought from permanently close-by. Shopping in Berkeley is certainly less convenient though, as it's currently ~1hr away.
posted by bsdfish at 12:26 PM on June 3, 2007
Here's a page with some different styles of frames at Surley bikes. If you go the bike store route, they'll order what you choose and build it for you.
posted by acro at 12:38 PM on June 3, 2007
posted by acro at 12:38 PM on June 3, 2007
Get thee to Chain Reaction (Los Gatos, Redwood City) and/or Palo Alto Bikes (on University). The latter is more snooty but they've got some cool wrenches, best shop around for the high end.. which is exactly what you're not asking for. :)
Being in the Bay Area means Craigslist is by far the best resource for used bikes. It's fairly impossible to keep up with the stream of listings for such.
posted by kcm at 12:43 PM on June 3, 2007
Being in the Bay Area means Craigslist is by far the best resource for used bikes. It's fairly impossible to keep up with the stream of listings for such.
posted by kcm at 12:43 PM on June 3, 2007
What I did was check out the better bikes at higher end shops and learned what to look for. Step 2 , hit garage sales. In 2 weeks I found a 5-6 year old Gary Fisher that had a bad back tire and a bit of rust and needed a tune up. The son didn't ride the bike anymore. I bought it for $10.00 and about $80.00 later, I have a $500.00 bike... Hop you have the same good luck...Orlin
posted by orlin at 12:46 PM on June 3, 2007
posted by orlin at 12:46 PM on June 3, 2007
I recently bought used a Specialized Rock Hopper from Bicycle Bill's in Brighton, MA for $375. I could probably have jawed them down some, but I thought that was pretty good. It's a really good bike, and I really like it. So, I would say that a $300 used bike from a bike shop is pretty likely.
posted by vilcxjo_BLANKA at 1:20 PM on June 3, 2007
posted by vilcxjo_BLANKA at 1:20 PM on June 3, 2007
If you go to a local bike shop, say "my budget is $300, I want to commute to work on a bike, what is the right bike in your inventory for me?" the guy will work with you to answer your problem. Local bike shops are proud of their ability to answer this kind of question with the right bike for you.
So I think you should just do that. Don't rule out a used bike; if the LBS guy thinks you should buy it he's probably right.
I agree with Sheldon and AjD about the department stores. Ruthless efficiency focused on margins, RoI and bottom line is harmful to your biking experience.
posted by ikkyu2 at 1:30 PM on June 3, 2007
So I think you should just do that. Don't rule out a used bike; if the LBS guy thinks you should buy it he's probably right.
I agree with Sheldon and AjD about the department stores. Ruthless efficiency focused on margins, RoI and bottom line is harmful to your biking experience.
posted by ikkyu2 at 1:30 PM on June 3, 2007
Also, at the risk of this comment being deleted for a derail:
Don't forget to include in your budget for a good, comfortable helmet. I would bet that ikkyu2, the resident brain surgeon (right?) will agree...
posted by JMOZ at 2:41 PM on June 3, 2007
Don't forget to include in your budget for a good, comfortable helmet. I would bet that ikkyu2, the resident brain surgeon (right?) will agree...
posted by JMOZ at 2:41 PM on June 3, 2007
No personal experience, but in my search for something for myself, I came across the Gary Fisher Tiburon in your price range.
I looked at a Gary Fisher Wingra at my local store today (about $450) and was very impressed. 24 speed, fits nice... hmmmm...
posted by The Deej at 2:45 PM on June 3, 2007
I looked at a Gary Fisher Wingra at my local store today (about $450) and was very impressed. 24 speed, fits nice... hmmmm...
posted by The Deej at 2:45 PM on June 3, 2007
One more thought I left out of my earlier rant. Since you're concerned on whatever you buy becoming a target of theives, keep it in mind.
I spend time on several message boards for folks who ride and/or collect classic steel bikes. On these boards I've seen stories of people whose fine and highly tuned multithousand dollar bikes have been stolen and later found ditched in favor of a crappy department-store bike because it was brightly colored and had suspension.
posted by ardgedee at 2:55 PM on June 3, 2007
I spend time on several message boards for folks who ride and/or collect classic steel bikes. On these boards I've seen stories of people whose fine and highly tuned multithousand dollar bikes have been stolen and later found ditched in favor of a crappy department-store bike because it was brightly colored and had suspension.
posted by ardgedee at 2:55 PM on June 3, 2007
How heavy are you? If you are much over 200lbs, you must get a free-hub/cassette rear wheel, rather than the cheaper free-wheel type rear wheel, see eriko's great answer to one of my old questions for details. This will probably imply a ~$500 bike at the local shop, but it is well worth it..
(Also, pedals with plastic bodies are guaranteed to break quickly under a heavy rider.)
posted by Chuckles at 3:53 PM on June 3, 2007
(Also, pedals with plastic bodies are guaranteed to break quickly under a heavy rider.)
posted by Chuckles at 3:53 PM on June 3, 2007
REI has its own line of bikes, Novara. They range from low to high end. I don't have any personal experience with these bikes, but I know a few people who've been happy with theirs.
That might be a good compromise between department stores and bike shops.
posted by freshwater_pr0n at 4:04 PM on June 3, 2007
That might be a good compromise between department stores and bike shops.
posted by freshwater_pr0n at 4:04 PM on June 3, 2007
Avoid the chain store bike. What you gain in cost savings will be lost in replacements e.g. new wheels when the spokes snap and crappy after-sales support. I've bought two new bikes in the past couple of years, one chainstore, one local bike shop, and i can assure you that like a car you want a good reliable mechanic from time to time.
posted by singingfish at 4:24 PM on June 3, 2007
posted by singingfish at 4:24 PM on June 3, 2007
Jamis has a good reputation for having a good bang-for-the-buck if you absolutely need a new bike. I just bought a Jamis Explorer 1.0 for $260.
posted by Skwirl at 5:46 PM on June 3, 2007
posted by Skwirl at 5:46 PM on June 3, 2007
If you're willing to pay an extra $50 out of pocket, you can get a Kona Smoke, which was what I got as a commuter. MSRP $350. It's solid enough where I'm not scared of damaging the bike going down curbs, and the upright position doesn't produce any back or butt pain. It also comes with fenders, so you won't have to be scared of getting mud/water on yourself.
If you know what you're looking for, you can definitely find decent old '80s road bikes on Craigs List in the $100-$300 range, but I only suggest that if you're pretty familiar with bikes.
And say 'no' to department store bikes.
posted by nakedsushi at 4:02 PM on June 4, 2007
If you know what you're looking for, you can definitely find decent old '80s road bikes on Craigs List in the $100-$300 range, but I only suggest that if you're pretty familiar with bikes.
And say 'no' to department store bikes.
posted by nakedsushi at 4:02 PM on June 4, 2007
I was a mechanic at a bike shop for a few years. I fixed many dept. store bikes after the owner crashed because something came loose. The people that put those things together don't do it right most of the time. It's worth the extra cash to know you're not going to be injured the first time you take it out, plus the free tuneup you'll need after a month or so. Even a cheap LBS bike is going to last a long time if you take good care of it.
posted by m3thod4 at 12:12 AM on June 5, 2007
posted by m3thod4 at 12:12 AM on June 5, 2007
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by junesix at 3:30 AM on June 3, 2007