We're honeymooning in Southern Alaska. Help us make the best of our time there.

September 5, 2006 10:04 AM

My wife and I are honeymooning in Alaska the first week of October - three days in Anchorage, and five days in Seward. Can you help me hit the highlights and avoid the crap?

First of all, we understand it will be a bit chilly where we're going, and we don't mind: the off-season rates are nice, and I'd rather explore with fewer tourists around. We've weathered more than a decade in Wisconsin, so we know cold weather and can prepare for it. Is early October parka weather in Southern AK? Or can we get by with heavier jackets/layers? Should we focus on rain gear? Do we need to bring mosquito repellant?

The first three days we stay in Anchorage, we're likely going to stay downtown - are there night spots to check out, or night spots to definitely avoid? What about during the day? What must we see while in Anchorage?

I've done a bit more research on Seward, since we'll be there longer. We're staying on Lowell Point, and plan to hike around the area (we're definitely going to hike to Caines Head, and yes we know to time it with low tide) and explore the town. We may do some kayaking, though I'd be just as happy to stick with short hikes and good food.

Are there restaurants in either city that are not to be missed? Any special, off-the-tourist-radar places that a Midwestern boy can appreciate? We're not high-maintenance folks, and not afraid of a little grit and grime. What do you recommend?

posted by rocketman to travel & transportation (9 comments total)

I spent a month in Anchorage a few summers ago, with friends, and the one thing I noticed was that all the residents talked about how much they loved Anchorage because it was so easy to leave -- it's surrounded by great things to do, but no one seems to spend all that much time in the city itself. And I got that impression from the city itself; it feels a bit like an outpost where people spend some time before doing fun stuff, rather than like a destination itself.

But it is really easy to hop in a car and go see prettier places. We drove to Girdwood, which was a GORGEOUS drive, and went to a top-of-the-mountain restaurant (food was nice, view was spectacular). We also hiked on Flattop Mountain, which was an easy hike with a really nice view of Anchorage.

I'm sure others may have better ideas for the city itself, but you may just want to look at "daytrips from Anchorage" guides for other ideas.
posted by occhiblu at 10:22 AM on September 5, 2006

Congratulations on getting hitched! Alaska is amazing and it will be hard to go wrong. I vote for spending less time in the city of Anchorage and more time exploring the surrounding area in day trips. Chugach State Park. Girdwood. Turnagin Arm. I thought the Kenai River (on your drive down to Seward) is gorgeous. In Seward I liked the Resurrect Art Coffeehouse. I didn't spend much time up there (or money--I was quite broke at the time) so I'm sure some Alaska MeFis will have some better suggestions.
posted by fieldtrip at 10:29 AM on September 5, 2006

How old are you? I spent a couple nights in Anchorage before leaving to see some of the rest of the state, and everyone told us to check out Chilkoot Charlies. I wouldn't go again, but it was somethin' else! Huge bar/club, tons of people. I was 25 at the time.

But I would recommend leaving. Can you go to Denali for the day from Anchorage?? Can you even get there that time of year? I'm asking more questions than I'm answering. Sorry.
posted by clh at 10:44 AM on September 5, 2006

I grew up in Alaska. October should be nice, since you don't mind chilly weather. Last time I was there in mid-October, there was frost on the ground, and if I was doing any more than going from the car to the house, I definitely had to wear a medium-heavy jacket, gloves, and a hat.

One of the main disadvantages is that a lot of the fun tourist areas are closed. On the other hand, you can often get an off-season tour if you call and ask nicely. I love animals, so I always like to stop at places like Big Game Alaska, which is right on the way to Seward from Anchorage. (Looks like they are open Thursday through Monday in the winter.)

There are some really nice hikes near the Anchorage area. If you want to get out and explore a little more, I recommend the Matanuska Valley, specifically Palmer and Wasilla. I always like to take visitors to the Matanuska Glacier, which you can hike around on. It's about two hours from Anchorage, but I doubt you'll find many two-hour drives this beautiful. There are people who charge you $35 to drive up and park near the glacier, or you can park down the road and hike on an alternate trail. (I haven't done that, can't provide details.)

In Anchorage itself, I've always enjoyed the Coastal Trail. I've always wanted to hike Flattop. If it's good enough for Jessamyn, it's good enough for me! There's supposed to be one of those optical illusion-type roads around Flattop where you let the car coast and it looks like you're rolling uphill. No details on that, sorry.

I like the Alaska Zoo in Anchorage. Not spectacular, but they have a lot of nice native animals that they rescue from the wild. It was a lot cooler when they had Binky, the polar bear who mangled tourists on two different occasions. Their grizzly bear has probably the most evil gaze I have ever seen from a zoo animal.

In Seward, the Sea Life Center is supposed to be great. My cousin took the back-stage tour and got to hold a giant octopus. That has been on my must-do list ever since she told me that. They have a tank where you can see the puffins "flying" underwater. (They swim with their wings.)

By the way, since you're going to be there when there's actual darkness, you should definitely try to see the aurora borealis. You may have to stay up till 2 or 3 am for this. Check Spaceweather.com every day that you're there so you'll know if an aurora is likely. (Hopefully it's not cloudy on the same night.)

As for night spots in Anchorage, well... I have no idea.
posted by agropyron at 10:47 AM on September 5, 2006 [1 favorite]

Oh, want a really fricking awesome view about 20 minutes out of Anchorage? Drive up to the top of Skyline Drive in Eagle River. Disregard the high school kids making out. Try to get there about 30 minutes before sunset. Don't try this if the roads are icy.
posted by agropyron at 11:01 AM on September 5, 2006 [1 favorite]

We were in Seward a couple of years ago and ate at Roy's Waterfront. Here's a blurb from my blog -

"Holy WOW, y’all, if you’re ever in Seward you have to eat at this place. I had the seafood chowder and about fell over, it was so good. Next were fresh local clams steamed with white wine and garlic and served with sourdough bread that our waiter gave us free (it was supposed to be $2), then fresh salmon lightly breaded with dijon and panko crumbs and baked. Absolutely the best meal I’ve had in Alaska so far."

My mouth is watering remembering it.
posted by Addlepated at 2:09 PM on September 5, 2006

I'll second Addlepated -- Ray's Waterfront (not Roy's) is Seward's best restaurant. The seafood is absolutely amazing. You can actually look out over the harbor and see giant salmon flopping into the air -- onto docks, boats, etc. (at least you could when we were there in early September).

Anchorage is much like any mid-to-large American city (I would compare it to Grand Rapids, Michigan, or Toledo, Ohio). The difference, as several have noted, is that as within minutes of leaving the city limits, you can be in wilderness virtually unknown in the lower 48.

When in Seward, we took one of the Kenai Fjord day trip boat tours. Saw several glaciers, bald eagles, breaching whales, etc., etc. I would recommend it, although it's a bit touristy.

Enjoy your honeymoon. We honeymooned in Alaska back in 1995. My wife probably would have preferred Hawaii, but I'm glad we went -- not a trip we would be able to take with the kids.
posted by pardonyou? at 2:25 PM on September 5, 2006

Sorry! How embarrassing - Ray's it is. Also for more food recommendations, check out Gruff's Feedbag FAQ.
posted by Addlepated at 5:56 PM on September 5, 2006

First off, congratulations! I've spent a few summers up in South Central Alaska and am still enamored with the people and the land. I was lucky enough to spend the whole month of August last year re-discovering favourite places as I travelled with my girlfriend. It was wonderful seeing old faves through fresh eyes. Sorry in advance for the holiday snaps, but they were the quickest illustrations I knew of. My advice follows:

Second and emphasize the Sea Life Center. The behind-the-scenes tour is fascinating and the center does such incredible work I have no compunction about giving a few extra dollars in support. It's true about the puffins and other pelagics, they really do fly underwater.

I know the couple who run Kayak Adventures Worldwide (Hi Wendy and Dave!) and would personally recommend them [They aren't paying me or anything; I'm just very happy with them]. They are friendly and knowledgeable; ask them anything -- like about the abandoned fort you can hike/bike/paddle to....my google-fu is failing me, but I've always wanted to see that.

If the weather is nice to you, take a cruise into the Kenai Fjordland but be prepared to get wet as you stand on the deck looking out for Stellar sea lions, puffins, sea ducks, orcas, and humpbacks. There are a few different options and price is based on how long you're out of port, which in tern gets you further out and increases your chances of seeing things you normally wouldn't. I was able to see Colgate Glacier calve right before my eyes!

Big Game Alaska is a great place to visit. It's just outside Portage Glacier, which straddles the mountain that separates Whittier from the rest of the world. DO NOT GO TO WHITTIER. I spent three nights there and that's more than enough. Interesting place (there's one big building where everyone lives) but reading about it is enough.

Between Anchorage and Seward (god, I love that drive!) is the Turnagain Arm. It's one of the few places in North America to see the tidal bore. Check with the Parks Dept in Anchorage if it's going to happen. (It requires the moon to be in the right phase.

My stepmother grew up in the Matanuska-Susitna (Mat-Su) Valley and clued me in to the awesome reindeer farm and petting zoo. Be sure to say hello to Bruce the Moose. He's really friendly...ate leaves right from our hands.

Palmer and Wassila are right next to one another and close by is the Independence Mine and picturesque Hatcher Pass. The weather may not cooperate and that'd be a shame. It's one of the most peaceful places in the world.

The Mat-Su glacier is a beautiful two-hour drive from Palmer. When you're back in town make sure to find the Cadillac Cafe. Save some room for dessert: Like Alaska it's hard but worth it.
posted by now i'm piste at 4:51 PM on September 7, 2006