Woodworking 101
September 7, 2024 6:48 PM Subscribe
What tools should every beginning woodworker’s workshop have?
Help me with my new hyper fixation!
I have taken an “Intro to Wood Working” class, but it’s been a while. I believe in the “Buy it for Life” philosophy, and don’t want to have to replace tools as I outgrow them, so would rather spend more the first time.
I would like to start off with fairly simple projects like making a shadow box, display bases for antiques, shelves, bookcases, plaques, picture frames, spice rack, etc.
I’m moving into a house with space for a workshop (it currently has one, but it needs extreme updating and the tools are all going with the current owner). The workshop is roughly 9 feet deep and 24 feet long, but there is also a two car garage and I only have one car, so there’s space if what I buy needs more room and is movable. The workshop has a working utility sink, so I have access to water. It also has 10 outlets! (I don’t know if these are all on the same circuit.)
As a potential bonus: I have about two acres of trees I can draw on. I have an arborist scheduled to inventory them and to give advice on properly maintaining this area. I really hope a lot of my projects will be made from wood from my own property.
I own very few tools, but I did inherit a small air compressor (the tank is about the size of a microwave).
I intend to make videos of my projects and talk about the tools I’ve purchased. So what all do I need? Assume I don’t have anything. Preferred brands and models and an explanation of what it’s used for and why I need it would be great. Be as comprehensive as you can or just tell me your one essential tool. Safety is a priority.
Thanks.
Help me with my new hyper fixation!
I have taken an “Intro to Wood Working” class, but it’s been a while. I believe in the “Buy it for Life” philosophy, and don’t want to have to replace tools as I outgrow them, so would rather spend more the first time.
I would like to start off with fairly simple projects like making a shadow box, display bases for antiques, shelves, bookcases, plaques, picture frames, spice rack, etc.
I’m moving into a house with space for a workshop (it currently has one, but it needs extreme updating and the tools are all going with the current owner). The workshop is roughly 9 feet deep and 24 feet long, but there is also a two car garage and I only have one car, so there’s space if what I buy needs more room and is movable. The workshop has a working utility sink, so I have access to water. It also has 10 outlets! (I don’t know if these are all on the same circuit.)
As a potential bonus: I have about two acres of trees I can draw on. I have an arborist scheduled to inventory them and to give advice on properly maintaining this area. I really hope a lot of my projects will be made from wood from my own property.
I own very few tools, but I did inherit a small air compressor (the tank is about the size of a microwave).
I intend to make videos of my projects and talk about the tools I’ve purchased. So what all do I need? Assume I don’t have anything. Preferred brands and models and an explanation of what it’s used for and why I need it would be great. Be as comprehensive as you can or just tell me your one essential tool. Safety is a priority.
Thanks.
Oh another cool advancement recently is that table saws have become less essential; you can do a lot of what they do, more portably, with a track saw.
posted by supercres at 7:08 PM on September 7
posted by supercres at 7:08 PM on September 7
First aid kit, fire extinguisher, and a pet/child/bump proof place to store finishing chemicals.
posted by VelveteenBabbitt at 7:28 PM on September 7 [4 favorites]
posted by VelveteenBabbitt at 7:28 PM on September 7 [4 favorites]
Smooth, level floor.
Pair of hardwood sawhorses, made for your height.
F clamps, at least 6, way more useful than G clamps.
Pipe clamps for 3/4" pipe - and 3/4" threader (or get threaded at nearest machine shop).
Hammer, mallet, small axe. At least three chisels 1/4" 1/2" & 1".
Good handsaw and plane.
Quality spirit level, depth guage, rulers and squares.
Very, very basic woodworker here but I can make a lot of things with that, and without a power supply.
posted by unearthed at 7:47 PM on September 7 [2 favorites]
Pair of hardwood sawhorses, made for your height.
F clamps, at least 6, way more useful than G clamps.
Pipe clamps for 3/4" pipe - and 3/4" threader (or get threaded at nearest machine shop).
Hammer, mallet, small axe. At least three chisels 1/4" 1/2" & 1".
Good handsaw and plane.
Quality spirit level, depth guage, rulers and squares.
Very, very basic woodworker here but I can make a lot of things with that, and without a power supply.
posted by unearthed at 7:47 PM on September 7 [2 favorites]
Only a dabbler here but I've found for medium-size items like you describe, a good chopsaw is a compact and versatile item. For finer work you have a handsaw and for big boards you can always cut them to size where you buy them. But for cutting boards, getting reliable angles, and repeat items, a chopsaw is fast and very simple to use.
I'd pick up a compact shop vac as well, and look into one that you can plug into your saw setup so it sucks up the sawdust before it gets everywhere.
While you're at it, decide on a system for battery tools — Ryobi, Stihl, etc — and stick with it. They're all fine so just pick one you like the feel of or can get a good price on. I got a small set that comes with a carrier bag that it easily all fits in. Since you're talking about land as well, might as well get one that supports a leaf blower, reticulating saw, and weed whacker. (Stihl I know for sure does this since we have them.)
Agree that you should buy way more clamps than you think you need. If you're doing work by yourself you simply can't have too many.
posted by BlackLeotardFront at 8:06 PM on September 7 [1 favorite]
I'd pick up a compact shop vac as well, and look into one that you can plug into your saw setup so it sucks up the sawdust before it gets everywhere.
While you're at it, decide on a system for battery tools — Ryobi, Stihl, etc — and stick with it. They're all fine so just pick one you like the feel of or can get a good price on. I got a small set that comes with a carrier bag that it easily all fits in. Since you're talking about land as well, might as well get one that supports a leaf blower, reticulating saw, and weed whacker. (Stihl I know for sure does this since we have them.)
Agree that you should buy way more clamps than you think you need. If you're doing work by yourself you simply can't have too many.
posted by BlackLeotardFront at 8:06 PM on September 7 [1 favorite]
What tools should every beginning woodworker’s workshop have?…I believe in the “Buy it for Life” philosophy, and don’t want to have to replace tools as I outgrow them, so would rather spend more the first time
Woodworking is a pretty challenging hobby for the BIFL philosophy. For example:
An alternative to the BIFL philosophy I've heard for tools is: "The first time you need a tool, get the harbor freight version. When that breaks, get the best one you can find." Even then, though, do you need Mitutoyo calipers? Do you need a Starrett combo square?
A guy who taught me a lot about woodworking put it this way to me: everything contains imperfections. Everything contains mistakes. And when you look at a really beautiful handmade table, somewhere in it there's a mistake, and somewhere in it there's a flaw in the wood. It's a matter of managing where the flaws go. And so you have to think about for what you are doing, where do you want the flaws to go? How perfect of a piece of wood do you need here, versus there? How much mistake can you tolerate? And when you think about it like this, "extra perfection" can be another kind of waste. It doesn't mean that there's no pride in craftsmanship, it means that part of being a great craftsman is not wasting anything, including quality and precision. In some sense, this is obvious when we think about materials: it would be almost gaudy to use fine hardwoods to make a shipping pallet, right? or a crate? It's a waste of quality. But it also might be a waste of durability, a waste of precision, and a waste of auditability to use $600 Mitutoyo calipers on your home woodworking projects.
Anyway, this isn't really an answer to your question, I'm sorry, but I hope it's a helpful way to think about buying tools. In attempt to rescue this post I'll say I agree with the points above about clamps and tracksaws, but I would add that most people skimp on sharpening. If you buy anything with an edge, you should think, "how will I sharpen this?" If the answer is "I won't, I'll buy another one" or "I'll take it to a shop", that's fine. But many common woodworking tools you would be way better off with a cheaper tool, and good sharpening skills, than a more expensive version without sharpening. Chisels, block planes, etc. Woodworking is basically cutting big pieces of wood into smaller pieces, and then attaching the smaller pieces into bigger arrangements again. The 'cutting' aspect means you're using a lot of edged tools, and edged tools need to be maintained for best performance.
posted by jeb at 8:50 PM on September 7 [8 favorites]
Woodworking is a pretty challenging hobby for the BIFL philosophy. For example:
- This is a 12" combo square from Starrett. It costs four hundred and eighty one dollars.
- This is a 12" combo square from Harbor Freight. It lists for eight bucks but Harbor Freight has lots of coupons.
An alternative to the BIFL philosophy I've heard for tools is: "The first time you need a tool, get the harbor freight version. When that breaks, get the best one you can find." Even then, though, do you need Mitutoyo calipers? Do you need a Starrett combo square?
A guy who taught me a lot about woodworking put it this way to me: everything contains imperfections. Everything contains mistakes. And when you look at a really beautiful handmade table, somewhere in it there's a mistake, and somewhere in it there's a flaw in the wood. It's a matter of managing where the flaws go. And so you have to think about for what you are doing, where do you want the flaws to go? How perfect of a piece of wood do you need here, versus there? How much mistake can you tolerate? And when you think about it like this, "extra perfection" can be another kind of waste. It doesn't mean that there's no pride in craftsmanship, it means that part of being a great craftsman is not wasting anything, including quality and precision. In some sense, this is obvious when we think about materials: it would be almost gaudy to use fine hardwoods to make a shipping pallet, right? or a crate? It's a waste of quality. But it also might be a waste of durability, a waste of precision, and a waste of auditability to use $600 Mitutoyo calipers on your home woodworking projects.
Anyway, this isn't really an answer to your question, I'm sorry, but I hope it's a helpful way to think about buying tools. In attempt to rescue this post I'll say I agree with the points above about clamps and tracksaws, but I would add that most people skimp on sharpening. If you buy anything with an edge, you should think, "how will I sharpen this?" If the answer is "I won't, I'll buy another one" or "I'll take it to a shop", that's fine. But many common woodworking tools you would be way better off with a cheaper tool, and good sharpening skills, than a more expensive version without sharpening. Chisels, block planes, etc. Woodworking is basically cutting big pieces of wood into smaller pieces, and then attaching the smaller pieces into bigger arrangements again. The 'cutting' aspect means you're using a lot of edged tools, and edged tools need to be maintained for best performance.
posted by jeb at 8:50 PM on September 7 [8 favorites]
First things to get are PPE (Personal Protection Equipment) - safety glasses (whatever is comfortable for you, I wear glasses so I have ones that slip over my glass), Hearing protection with either noise reducing headphones or earphones, and dust mask (if you do a lot of painting may sure you get the kind rated for that). A shop apron is handy as well so you have these essentials with you at all times in those pickets and keeps the mess from getting to you.
Second are good measuring tools. Don't skimp on these, your going to have them for a long time and you don't need to buy twice if you get good ones to begin with. A combination square and a try square would be a good starting set in addition to a couple of measuring tapes (it's easy to misplace and easier to have one near you at different stations in your workshop so they don't need to move with you.
Third, get some good hand tools. Again, get some good stuff. You don't need the highest end or most expensive. I find something like Lee Valley products are a good upper middle range to look into. Get a few common size chisels, a couple of good saw (one for rip cut, one for cross cut), and if you want to do fancy joinery then consider a dovetail saw. And some hand planes like a smoothing plane would be very useful. You can do everything with just hand tools and not have to worry about power altogether if you want to go old school. It also tends to be safer since there's not powered tools involved.
If you do want to add power tools, I then you can start go a lot of different ways. You can use a table saw (Sawstop was what I had and loved, but it's a bit costly due to its flesh-detecting technology). Or if you're not having to breakdown large sheet goods, you might be able to get by with just a bandsaw and supplement with a track saw for large pieces. For bandsaw, I had an 18" Launa and loved it, but you can start with a 14" version. If you like to make intricate things, get a scrollsaw. It's a lot of fun and fairly safe. It's like a sewing machine for wood. The one I had was a 21" Excalibur, but there are other brand. Just make sure you get enough throat clearance to do the largest work that you'll likely to use so you don't get stuff with that limitation. Then you'll wait a router, either handheld or get a router with a table. This will help you smooth out the edges. I would consider jointer and planer as secondary unless you want o harvest your own lumber then that might be necessary, but to get a good size one with enough horse power can be costly. There's you'll want the helical head because they cut smoother and easier to replace cutters if parts get damaged. One way to save space on that is to get a combination jointer/planer, but it can get annoying switching modes back and forth. While Inca brand isn't made anymore, it has a loyal following and were well made. If you can get them cheap, I would say get it. Most of the well-known woodworking power tools come from the same factories, but are rebadged so focus more on the features and support that you want instead. Also, if you get power tools, please be sure to get dust collection. It's not a good idea to do it without. Save a bunch of cleaning time and also your lungs by getting good dust collection. If you're into smaller power tools, I would say look at the Festool Domino. It's very unique and while expensive can be very useful for many projects. It also can be purchased with a vacuum and they work together with other Festool tools to turn on and off as they are being used. Most every Festool tool is worth the markup, for example for drills/drivers, just get Milwaukee, DeWalt, or Makita for about 1/3 to 1/2 of the cost.
A few other miscellaneous things to get, a fireproof paint shed to hold all your stains and paints. Also a good fire-proof trash can could save your garage if you're using boil iin seed oil where the used rag can self-ignite and having it in a fireproof can makes for a good investment. Finally some good books from Chris Schwartz will help you understand how best to use some of your hand tools and give you plenty of project templates and ideas.
posted by smilefreely at 9:52 PM on September 7
Second are good measuring tools. Don't skimp on these, your going to have them for a long time and you don't need to buy twice if you get good ones to begin with. A combination square and a try square would be a good starting set in addition to a couple of measuring tapes (it's easy to misplace and easier to have one near you at different stations in your workshop so they don't need to move with you.
Third, get some good hand tools. Again, get some good stuff. You don't need the highest end or most expensive. I find something like Lee Valley products are a good upper middle range to look into. Get a few common size chisels, a couple of good saw (one for rip cut, one for cross cut), and if you want to do fancy joinery then consider a dovetail saw. And some hand planes like a smoothing plane would be very useful. You can do everything with just hand tools and not have to worry about power altogether if you want to go old school. It also tends to be safer since there's not powered tools involved.
If you do want to add power tools, I then you can start go a lot of different ways. You can use a table saw (Sawstop was what I had and loved, but it's a bit costly due to its flesh-detecting technology). Or if you're not having to breakdown large sheet goods, you might be able to get by with just a bandsaw and supplement with a track saw for large pieces. For bandsaw, I had an 18" Launa and loved it, but you can start with a 14" version. If you like to make intricate things, get a scrollsaw. It's a lot of fun and fairly safe. It's like a sewing machine for wood. The one I had was a 21" Excalibur, but there are other brand. Just make sure you get enough throat clearance to do the largest work that you'll likely to use so you don't get stuff with that limitation. Then you'll wait a router, either handheld or get a router with a table. This will help you smooth out the edges. I would consider jointer and planer as secondary unless you want o harvest your own lumber then that might be necessary, but to get a good size one with enough horse power can be costly. There's you'll want the helical head because they cut smoother and easier to replace cutters if parts get damaged. One way to save space on that is to get a combination jointer/planer, but it can get annoying switching modes back and forth. While Inca brand isn't made anymore, it has a loyal following and were well made. If you can get them cheap, I would say get it. Most of the well-known woodworking power tools come from the same factories, but are rebadged so focus more on the features and support that you want instead. Also, if you get power tools, please be sure to get dust collection. It's not a good idea to do it without. Save a bunch of cleaning time and also your lungs by getting good dust collection. If you're into smaller power tools, I would say look at the Festool Domino. It's very unique and while expensive can be very useful for many projects. It also can be purchased with a vacuum and they work together with other Festool tools to turn on and off as they are being used. Most every Festool tool is worth the markup, for example for drills/drivers, just get Milwaukee, DeWalt, or Makita for about 1/3 to 1/2 of the cost.
A few other miscellaneous things to get, a fireproof paint shed to hold all your stains and paints. Also a good fire-proof trash can could save your garage if you're using boil iin seed oil where the used rag can self-ignite and having it in a fireproof can makes for a good investment. Finally some good books from Chris Schwartz will help you understand how best to use some of your hand tools and give you plenty of project templates and ideas.
posted by smilefreely at 9:52 PM on September 7
Honestly my first thought is that we can have no idea what you need because you haven't said how you want to work. Hand to tool or power tool is the big split there but there are nuances on nuances in there.
I am an experienced and sometimes professional woodworker, my attitude is this: pick a project, research how other people have tackled similar things and work out how you want to tackle it. No two people will have exactly the same methods or tools, some will be wildly divergent. Then buy the minimum tools you need to tackle that project or borrow them if you are not sure you'll ever come back this way.
Repeat and repeat. You'll end up with what you need, not what other people think you need.
But perhaps start with defining if you aspire to be Peter Follansbee or to drive a $25k CNC machine (or something in between).
On harvesting your own trees - it is worth doing and I've both done it and sold timber, but it is properly fraught and a very difficult thing to do well without quite some knowledge and experience. Do it but go slowly. And bear in mind one tree might supply enough timber for a decade if you only do occasional small projects. And drying it well is likely to be harder than milling it.
posted by deadwax at 10:58 PM on September 7 [5 favorites]
I am an experienced and sometimes professional woodworker, my attitude is this: pick a project, research how other people have tackled similar things and work out how you want to tackle it. No two people will have exactly the same methods or tools, some will be wildly divergent. Then buy the minimum tools you need to tackle that project or borrow them if you are not sure you'll ever come back this way.
Repeat and repeat. You'll end up with what you need, not what other people think you need.
But perhaps start with defining if you aspire to be Peter Follansbee or to drive a $25k CNC machine (or something in between).
On harvesting your own trees - it is worth doing and I've both done it and sold timber, but it is properly fraught and a very difficult thing to do well without quite some knowledge and experience. Do it but go slowly. And bear in mind one tree might supply enough timber for a decade if you only do occasional small projects. And drying it well is likely to be harder than milling it.
posted by deadwax at 10:58 PM on September 7 [5 favorites]
I would buy mid-range tools. Because:
- You don't want to get discouraged if the shit tools make it too hard
- If your new passion turns out to be short-lived, you won't be out as much money
- If it turns into an obsession, you're going to buy more anyway
Jointer or table saw, and planer, even if you're a hand tool guy, unless you really love hand-planing boards into shape to even get a project started.
posted by ctmf at 11:29 PM on September 7 [2 favorites]
- You don't want to get discouraged if the shit tools make it too hard
- If your new passion turns out to be short-lived, you won't be out as much money
- If it turns into an obsession, you're going to buy more anyway
Jointer or table saw, and planer, even if you're a hand tool guy, unless you really love hand-planing boards into shape to even get a project started.
posted by ctmf at 11:29 PM on September 7 [2 favorites]
"Be sure to read, understand, and follow all the safety rules that come with your power tools. Learning how to use your tools safely will greatly reduce the risk of personal injury. And there is no more important safety rule than to wear these safety glasses [puts them on]. Now let's get started on today's project." -- Norm Abram
posted by seanmpuckett at 6:17 AM on September 8 [4 favorites]
posted by seanmpuckett at 6:17 AM on September 8 [4 favorites]
If you're cutting a lot of mitres (as your list of projects suggests your would be) then a mid-range sliding/titling electric mitre saw might be a good start. They're good for making accurate cuts to length, and the sliding action will allow you to cut wider boards than a basic chop saw. They're not always the best saws for precision work, but with a bit of calibration and some test cuts, you can get very good results.
posted by pipeski at 11:13 AM on September 8
posted by pipeski at 11:13 AM on September 8
I wouldn't have listened to my own advice when I started woodworking, but:
Try to find a class or a person to learn how to sharpen properly.
I thought I could learn with videos, and I sort of did, but it was slow and painful and I still have some bad habits.
Some years later I got much better and my frustration levels decreased quickly!
(Now I just have 99 other problems)
For actual tool recommendations, I have a few that make me smile every time:
The little orange Japanese saw from Lee Valley
The Shinto saw rasp
Random orbital sander (YEARS of not thinking I needed one, and $50 later I was kicking myself)
Marking gauge
For big tools, the bandsaw and planer get the most use because I, too, like the hassle of working with 'free' wood
posted by Acari at 1:36 PM on September 8 [2 favorites]
Try to find a class or a person to learn how to sharpen properly.
I thought I could learn with videos, and I sort of did, but it was slow and painful and I still have some bad habits.
Some years later I got much better and my frustration levels decreased quickly!
(Now I just have 99 other problems)
For actual tool recommendations, I have a few that make me smile every time:
The little orange Japanese saw from Lee Valley
The Shinto saw rasp
Random orbital sander (YEARS of not thinking I needed one, and $50 later I was kicking myself)
Marking gauge
For big tools, the bandsaw and planer get the most use because I, too, like the hassle of working with 'free' wood
posted by Acari at 1:36 PM on September 8 [2 favorites]
Response by poster: I appreciate everyone’s answers so far. I will respond more in depth once I make my list.
posted by cjorgensen at 7:24 PM on September 8
posted by cjorgensen at 7:24 PM on September 8
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SawStop is really a revolution when it comes to safety with power tools. It’s a shame it’s such a markup and not a licensed technology, but if you can spring for it, do so.
posted by supercres at 7:07 PM on September 7 [1 favorite]