Best products and processes for painting interior residential walls
May 16, 2024 4:14 PM Subscribe
We are moving into a new home and need to paint a number of rooms (2 bedrooms, 2 baths, hallways, closet interiors) and are trying to get it done as quickly and painlessly as possible, without hiring anyone. What should we buy and what tips do you have?
We'll be painting the walls with Behr Premium Plus Eggshell or Flat, trim with Behr Premium Plus Semi-Gloss (our landlord is providing the paint to us at the low price of free, so we're pretty set on the paint). No primer, hopefully just one coat per surface - the color is the same as what's on the walls, it's just scuffed and mismatched in places and we'd like it to look nicer. Might have to patch and sand a few spots.
I think I have a couple of decent Purdy angle brushes for edging. I don't think I have any rollers or handles since I haven't painted in at least 7 years. I don't mind spending some more up front for tools that will help us do the job quickly and well; I just don't necessarily know what those are and I am honestly too tired to do research right now, amidst packing and other things.
The ceilings aren't terribly high, I think 8 feet. The floors are all hardwood or vinyl plank. We'll have two stepladders but it will mostly just be 2 people working at it, unless we can wrangle help from friends, and I recall our arms getting insanely tired after just a few hours the last time we painted, any tips to help avoid this or make any part of it easier?
We'll be painting the walls with Behr Premium Plus Eggshell or Flat, trim with Behr Premium Plus Semi-Gloss (our landlord is providing the paint to us at the low price of free, so we're pretty set on the paint). No primer, hopefully just one coat per surface - the color is the same as what's on the walls, it's just scuffed and mismatched in places and we'd like it to look nicer. Might have to patch and sand a few spots.
I think I have a couple of decent Purdy angle brushes for edging. I don't think I have any rollers or handles since I haven't painted in at least 7 years. I don't mind spending some more up front for tools that will help us do the job quickly and well; I just don't necessarily know what those are and I am honestly too tired to do research right now, amidst packing and other things.
The ceilings aren't terribly high, I think 8 feet. The floors are all hardwood or vinyl plank. We'll have two stepladders but it will mostly just be 2 people working at it, unless we can wrangle help from friends, and I recall our arms getting insanely tired after just a few hours the last time we painted, any tips to help avoid this or make any part of it easier?
Get the good tape, not masking tape, and get the best trim brushes you can.
posted by jgirl at 4:51 PM on May 16 [5 favorites]
posted by jgirl at 4:51 PM on May 16 [5 favorites]
Best answer: Definitely use painters tape if you're not confident in your ability to cut in (I'm not confident and have painted quite a bit). Fight the temptation to load your rollers up with extra paint or press hard to squeeze the last drops out. It may seem like it will get things done more quickly, but it will increase splatter and the amount of time and materials you have to spend on prep. If you do have minor splatters on your floors this stuff works, but it doesn't smell pleasant and the less you have to use it the better.
Start with the ceiling. Start with your brushes on the edges and then go in with the rollers for the middle. There are different roller thicknesses or "naps" based on the texture of your wall. You'll need a paint tray too, personally I never liked the inserts you can put in them, they're already pretty easy to clean if you use latex paint.YMMV, but I always put the paint can and tray on plastic and don't bother with covering the whole floor.
One or two of these paint cups will be WELL worth it for the brush parts. They make roller extension poles for the ceiling and hard to reach areas. They're useful, but not sure if that's worth it for your project or not...depends on how tall you guys are, how big the rooms are and how much you hate having to get up and down from a ladder.
Stretch before and after and put on an audiobook, podcast or music you both like for a distraction from the monotony and aching arms.
posted by Eyelash at 4:59 PM on May 16 [2 favorites]
Start with the ceiling. Start with your brushes on the edges and then go in with the rollers for the middle. There are different roller thicknesses or "naps" based on the texture of your wall. You'll need a paint tray too, personally I never liked the inserts you can put in them, they're already pretty easy to clean if you use latex paint.YMMV, but I always put the paint can and tray on plastic and don't bother with covering the whole floor.
One or two of these paint cups will be WELL worth it for the brush parts. They make roller extension poles for the ceiling and hard to reach areas. They're useful, but not sure if that's worth it for your project or not...depends on how tall you guys are, how big the rooms are and how much you hate having to get up and down from a ladder.
Stretch before and after and put on an audiobook, podcast or music you both like for a distraction from the monotony and aching arms.
posted by Eyelash at 4:59 PM on May 16 [2 favorites]
If you need to patch but don't spot prime, it'll show (unless they're tiny holes).
posted by kate4914 at 5:27 PM on May 16
posted by kate4914 at 5:27 PM on May 16
"They make roller extension poles for the ceiling and hard to reach areas. They're useful, but not sure if that's worth it for your project or not...depends on how tall you guys are, how big the rooms are and how much you hate having to get up and down from a ladder."
They're absolutely worth it for ceilings. There's no need to get on to a ladder to do ceilings. it'll waste a ton of time. And it's a ton easier to paint holding the roller low than it is overhead.
posted by jonathanhughes at 5:43 PM on May 16 [3 favorites]
They're absolutely worth it for ceilings. There's no need to get on to a ladder to do ceilings. it'll waste a ton of time. And it's a ton easier to paint holding the roller low than it is overhead.
posted by jonathanhughes at 5:43 PM on May 16 [3 favorites]
Buy plenty of cheap rollers. When you are done for the day, just throw it away. Tomorrow use a new one. Don't try to wash them. You can also get roller tray inserts and do the same thing.
posted by fritley at 6:13 PM on May 16 [1 favorite]
posted by fritley at 6:13 PM on May 16 [1 favorite]
Best answer: Great advice here. Another option for rollers and brushes is to wrap them carefully in plastic wrap at the end of the day and place them in the fridge. They'll be ready to go the next morning.
Cover the entire floor with drop cloth. Just when you least expect it, a can of paint can get knocked over and make a puddle (unfixable if there's carpet).
One can of paint can differ from the next, even when mixed to the same specs. Get enough paint for the job. If you find it's running out, stop at one wall, then mix the new and old paint cans together for the next wall.
posted by dum spiro spero at 6:33 PM on May 16 [7 favorites]
Cover the entire floor with drop cloth. Just when you least expect it, a can of paint can get knocked over and make a puddle (unfixable if there's carpet).
One can of paint can differ from the next, even when mixed to the same specs. Get enough paint for the job. If you find it's running out, stop at one wall, then mix the new and old paint cans together for the next wall.
posted by dum spiro spero at 6:33 PM on May 16 [7 favorites]
Best answer: Painting goes a lot faster with meticulous prep. Taping off, covering the floors and any furniture, covering yourself (comfortable gloves, and cheap white painter's caps really work to keep spatters off your face and, if you wear them, your glasses: masks when sanding, or if you are sensitive to the paint odors),
I only use cheap rollers for primer. For paint I'd get the nicest roller covers you can afford: in my experience they make a difference in the amount of paint they hold, the evenness of the paint layer, and don't spatter nearly as much as the cheap ones. Keep a roll of plastic wrap around to wrap up a paint-y roller if you're taking a break or finishing up for the day: the paint on it will stay wet overnight, and especially if the same color is going on all the walls, you should be able to get by with just one roller cover per person that way. And yes, get paint tray liners.
Wash the walls first to get rid of accumulated oil and grime- I like to use a jumbo sponge because it lessens the chance of scraping my knuckles across the wall. It's amazing how much even that brightens up the walls. Mild detergent is usually all you need unless you are dealing with a really grimy area like a kitchen, in which case you might need a degreaser. And sand the entire wall (light scuffing is fine), not just the patched parts.
Finally, when I'm painting, I like to have a rag and a small bucket of water handy to quickly clean up drips, and I keep my paint tray, bucket, and various tools on a large piece of cardboard that contrasts with the tarp on the floor. It acts as a visual alert and keeps me from stepping in paint when I'm focused on the walls.
posted by pernoctalian at 6:41 PM on May 16 [6 favorites]
I only use cheap rollers for primer. For paint I'd get the nicest roller covers you can afford: in my experience they make a difference in the amount of paint they hold, the evenness of the paint layer, and don't spatter nearly as much as the cheap ones. Keep a roll of plastic wrap around to wrap up a paint-y roller if you're taking a break or finishing up for the day: the paint on it will stay wet overnight, and especially if the same color is going on all the walls, you should be able to get by with just one roller cover per person that way. And yes, get paint tray liners.
Wash the walls first to get rid of accumulated oil and grime- I like to use a jumbo sponge because it lessens the chance of scraping my knuckles across the wall. It's amazing how much even that brightens up the walls. Mild detergent is usually all you need unless you are dealing with a really grimy area like a kitchen, in which case you might need a degreaser. And sand the entire wall (light scuffing is fine), not just the patched parts.
Finally, when I'm painting, I like to have a rag and a small bucket of water handy to quickly clean up drips, and I keep my paint tray, bucket, and various tools on a large piece of cardboard that contrasts with the tarp on the floor. It acts as a visual alert and keeps me from stepping in paint when I'm focused on the walls.
posted by pernoctalian at 6:41 PM on May 16 [6 favorites]
I really like this comprehensive guide to painting from the DIY bloggers at Yellow Brick Home.
posted by bluloo at 7:09 PM on May 16
posted by bluloo at 7:09 PM on May 16
Best answer: You don't need to prime, but if you spot paint the patches they won't show after you paint the whole wall.
Remove all the switch and outlet covers and paint them separately. After you reinstall, go back and touch up the screws and the edges.
If you get paint on the window panes it is pretty easy to go back and scrape it off with a razor scraper.
Remove the masking tape shortly after the paint dries. Pull up at a sharp angle so it doesn't pull up the paint.
posted by H21 at 8:07 PM on May 16 [3 favorites]
Remove all the switch and outlet covers and paint them separately. After you reinstall, go back and touch up the screws and the edges.
If you get paint on the window panes it is pretty easy to go back and scrape it off with a razor scraper.
Remove the masking tape shortly after the paint dries. Pull up at a sharp angle so it doesn't pull up the paint.
posted by H21 at 8:07 PM on May 16 [3 favorites]
Best answer: Maybe a work platform. I used it more than a ladder last time I painted a room.
posted by Sophont at 12:27 AM on May 17 [1 favorite]
posted by Sophont at 12:27 AM on May 17 [1 favorite]
Do the ceilings need to be painted? I’d skip those unless they truly need it - especially in closets. I don’t tape - I’m careful with my edges, and used about a 2 inch brush for those, and a roller for the rest. I put my paint on an old chair rather than the floor so I’m not reaching so far.
posted by Sukey Says at 1:31 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
posted by Sukey Says at 1:31 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
I spot-primed and can see where through one coat of paint, so I'd also spot-paint.
Don't let landlord get flat for the walls! Too hard to clean.
posted by flimflam at 3:32 AM on May 17 [1 favorite]
Don't let landlord get flat for the walls! Too hard to clean.
posted by flimflam at 3:32 AM on May 17 [1 favorite]
Great suggestions and absolutely agree that flat paint should be used only for ceilings.
posted by mightshould at 4:29 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
posted by mightshould at 4:29 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
Don't leave tape on the wall for any extended period. The longer it sticks, the tighter it sticks.
If the old paint has bumps and drips, take them of with a swipe of coarse sandpaper, by hand or electric Sander.
Remove all curtain hardware. Spackle the holes and sand.
posted by SemiSalt at 4:34 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
If the old paint has bumps and drips, take them of with a swipe of coarse sandpaper, by hand or electric Sander.
Remove all curtain hardware. Spackle the holes and sand.
posted by SemiSalt at 4:34 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
Best answer: Another vote for not using flat - see if the landlord will get matte instead. One paint store person I talked to called matte "washable flat."
Be patient. Painting can be done cheaply and well, but haste guarantees drips and visible roller and brush lines. You're going to be looking at these walls for a while so take the time needed to do good, detailed work. Your time savings will come from having the needed tools and supplies ready, and from doing things in the proper sequence.
If the job requires multiple cans of paint, the conventional wisdom is to mix all the paint together before painting, to eliminate inconsistencies in color between cans. If you don't want to do that, try not to use paint from more than one can on a single surface. Minor color variations on adjacent surfaces will be imperceptible due to how light hits them differently, but on a single surface variation is more likely to be noticeable.
Cover your floors cover your floors cover your floors. Cover your floors 4' beyond where the painting stops in case you track paint out on your shoe. Before you walk out of the area you're painting, check to make sure you're not tracking paint.
Go over the walls and identify & deal with any sanding/filling/old drip removal as a whole process before you even crack open a can of paint. Don't try to repair as you paint.
For old bumps or drips, often you can slice them off with a single-edged razor blade, then sand a little if needed. I prefer the results over sanding alone. Slice though, don't scrape!
Take switch plates and outlet plates off and tape over the switches and outlets with painters tape. Treat yourself to new cover plates if the old ones have paint on them, or are cracked or too dirty to clean. They're around $1 each at a big box hardware store in the U.S.
Paint stores sell plastic clip-on pour spouts for gallon paint cans. They help avoid spills when pouring paint into roller trays, and prevent paint buildup on the rim of the can. Get one. Also get a paint can key, paint stores will often give them out for free. Also, get plenty of stir sticks.
Before you open the paint, take a photo of the label with the brand, color name and recipe (if shown). If you need more paint later this will come in handy. Those labels often fade or get covered with paint.
Clean the rims of your cans and seal them well after using. If you need to touch up later, you'll still have usable paint instead of a semi-solid cracked paint disc. And write the room the color is used in and the date you painted on a clean part of the can with a sharpie. This will help future you or future tenants if repainting is required (or touching up when you move out if you're that kind of tenant). Along those lines, consider painting a 6" x 6" square of cardboard or wood and labeling the back with the paint name and recipe data to help with color matching later if needed.
posted by under_petticoat_rule at 5:25 AM on May 17 [4 favorites]
Be patient. Painting can be done cheaply and well, but haste guarantees drips and visible roller and brush lines. You're going to be looking at these walls for a while so take the time needed to do good, detailed work. Your time savings will come from having the needed tools and supplies ready, and from doing things in the proper sequence.
If the job requires multiple cans of paint, the conventional wisdom is to mix all the paint together before painting, to eliminate inconsistencies in color between cans. If you don't want to do that, try not to use paint from more than one can on a single surface. Minor color variations on adjacent surfaces will be imperceptible due to how light hits them differently, but on a single surface variation is more likely to be noticeable.
Cover your floors cover your floors cover your floors. Cover your floors 4' beyond where the painting stops in case you track paint out on your shoe. Before you walk out of the area you're painting, check to make sure you're not tracking paint.
Go over the walls and identify & deal with any sanding/filling/old drip removal as a whole process before you even crack open a can of paint. Don't try to repair as you paint.
For old bumps or drips, often you can slice them off with a single-edged razor blade, then sand a little if needed. I prefer the results over sanding alone. Slice though, don't scrape!
Take switch plates and outlet plates off and tape over the switches and outlets with painters tape. Treat yourself to new cover plates if the old ones have paint on them, or are cracked or too dirty to clean. They're around $1 each at a big box hardware store in the U.S.
Paint stores sell plastic clip-on pour spouts for gallon paint cans. They help avoid spills when pouring paint into roller trays, and prevent paint buildup on the rim of the can. Get one. Also get a paint can key, paint stores will often give them out for free. Also, get plenty of stir sticks.
Before you open the paint, take a photo of the label with the brand, color name and recipe (if shown). If you need more paint later this will come in handy. Those labels often fade or get covered with paint.
Clean the rims of your cans and seal them well after using. If you need to touch up later, you'll still have usable paint instead of a semi-solid cracked paint disc. And write the room the color is used in and the date you painted on a clean part of the can with a sharpie. This will help future you or future tenants if repainting is required (or touching up when you move out if you're that kind of tenant). Along those lines, consider painting a 6" x 6" square of cardboard or wood and labeling the back with the paint name and recipe data to help with color matching later if needed.
posted by under_petticoat_rule at 5:25 AM on May 17 [4 favorites]
Best answer: The odor of fresh and drying paint can be overwhelming, IME. Mixing about 1 tablespoon of pure vanilla extract into each gallon will go a long way toward neutralizing the odor without affecting the color at all. It has been a lifesaver for me!
posted by DrGail at 8:13 AM on May 17 [1 favorite]
posted by DrGail at 8:13 AM on May 17 [1 favorite]
Best answer: A roller and an extension pole are a must for painting ceilings. If you're trying to do only one coat, pay attention to the wet edge--don't do all your cut in at once, instead do each wall separately (cut in wall 1, roll, cut in wall 2, roll). The paint cups meant for cutting in are really useful, easier than holding a paint can and handy all 'round for stashing wet brushes, corralling switch plates, etc. I got a 1-gal paint tray on the recommendation of a YT video and it's been way easier to use than the old-fashioned aluminum ones. I personally wouldn't cheap out on the roller covers, but I have a visceral hate for that orange-peel roller texture, so ymmv.
The paint you're using says it's low odor, but in my experience even the lowest VOC paints still have unpleasant fumes (even if you can't smell 'em), so ventilate the area as much as you can, as long as you can. I've got a bunch of painting I need to do that I've been putting off until the weather's nice enough I can leave all my windows open overnight.
Misc: a paint can key is cheap and easy; rubber or wood mallet to close up the cans without wrecking the edges; damp rags or shop towels for wiping up drips; start in the least visible area because it's probably going to take a bit of practice to get in the groove. Have snacks and water on hand and take plenty of breaks.
posted by radiogreentea at 8:23 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
The paint you're using says it's low odor, but in my experience even the lowest VOC paints still have unpleasant fumes (even if you can't smell 'em), so ventilate the area as much as you can, as long as you can. I've got a bunch of painting I need to do that I've been putting off until the weather's nice enough I can leave all my windows open overnight.
Misc: a paint can key is cheap and easy; rubber or wood mallet to close up the cans without wrecking the edges; damp rags or shop towels for wiping up drips; start in the least visible area because it's probably going to take a bit of practice to get in the groove. Have snacks and water on hand and take plenty of breaks.
posted by radiogreentea at 8:23 AM on May 17 [2 favorites]
If you get decent at it you’ll find that you need to tape off less. I’m a righty and can get away with not taping off cutting in on the left side of my body. However when I’m painting to the right and kind of twisting myself back I need to tape off. I also need to tape off floor trim, but less so on ceiling trim.
Cover all the floors through the length of painting since you’re painting so much. You’ll think you were pretty good about keeping everything off the floor until you accidentally get that ONE spot and move in to another room.
You can fix a lot if you catch it early when the paint it wet. I didn’t realize the splatter I was getting on my natural wood trim chair rail but was able to wipe it up easily while it was wet, scrape it off fairly easily within 48 hours and everything past that was a lot harder
posted by raccoon409 at 9:27 AM on May 17
Cover all the floors through the length of painting since you’re painting so much. You’ll think you were pretty good about keeping everything off the floor until you accidentally get that ONE spot and move in to another room.
You can fix a lot if you catch it early when the paint it wet. I didn’t realize the splatter I was getting on my natural wood trim chair rail but was able to wipe it up easily while it was wet, scrape it off fairly easily within 48 hours and everything past that was a lot harder
posted by raccoon409 at 9:27 AM on May 17
A lot of good tips mentioned above.
You can't rush the painting process. The more you hurry the longer it will take.
Also, Behr brand paint is for amateurs. You save a bit of money by getting a product that takes more time and effort to spread smoothly. Professionals will pay a bit more for a Ben Moore or Sherwin-Williams product that goes on smoother. (hey if that's what's supplied then that's what you get.)
posted by ovvl at 10:42 AM on May 17
You can't rush the painting process. The more you hurry the longer it will take.
Also, Behr brand paint is for amateurs. You save a bit of money by getting a product that takes more time and effort to spread smoothly. Professionals will pay a bit more for a Ben Moore or Sherwin-Williams product that goes on smoother. (hey if that's what's supplied then that's what you get.)
posted by ovvl at 10:42 AM on May 17
Response by poster: It's eggshell, luckily, not totally flat. And yes, personally when I buy paint I buy Benjamin Moore, but a 5 gallon bucket of good ol' Ben is over $300. Since we likely won't be here more than a few years and the landlord is willing to provide this Behr paint for free, AND we're providing the labor, I'm not willing to invest a lot in the product. The tools, yes, since I can take those with me.
Thanks for all the tips - the vanilla one blew my mind, and I already have clear vanilla extract for using in light colored and white frosting for baking. Noted on the prep, etc. I already ordered new switch plate covers and outlet covers and taken off the existing ones.
posted by rachaelfaith at 2:46 PM on May 17
Thanks for all the tips - the vanilla one blew my mind, and I already have clear vanilla extract for using in light colored and white frosting for baking. Noted on the prep, etc. I already ordered new switch plate covers and outlet covers and taken off the existing ones.
posted by rachaelfaith at 2:46 PM on May 17
Best answer: Keep some joint compound and a putty knife on hand, ideally powdered, and use that for holes, divots, or cracks in plaster. Much better result than that purple premix and so much cheaper!
Unlike most other folks here, I'm convinced that taping takes way longer than painting carefully with a high quality stiff trim brush, especiallysince you have to repeat it for wall/trim/ceiling. Only valid for non-carpet floors though.
The order is ceiling, trim, and only then do you do the walls. You'll regret other choices (personal experience on that).
Ceiling you get up quickly and don't be precious about it, then paint moulding/trim carefully and then carefully trim and then paint the walls to cover the ceiling or trim paint that you weren't too careful about.
Consider adding water to your latex paint (or use flow) to think it very slightly to make it easier to apply (less gloppy rollers) and more importantly, to make sure you can keep the wet edge going. I prefer this for wall and ceiling paint but I want trim paint as thick as possible.
Wet edge is critical and makes a huge difference in how blotchy the final job looks when you're moved in.
If you've thinned you probably have enough for an extra coat for high-impact areas (wall with the kitchen light switch, wall near door where shoes were kept, kid's toy wall, etc).
"Trim" is two things - both the molding or decorative wood/etc at the edge of doors, floors, etc, and it's also painting the edge of a wall or ceiling with a brush, like you would do the 'trim' with a string trimmer or edger and a lawnmower for the main yard. That's more properly called 'cutting in' but there's overlap in use.
If you have hardwood floors/laminate/linoleum, buy a scraper-type razor and a whole box of blades. I prefer to let my paint drops dry and then pop them up with the razor rather than crud cutter or vigorous tape/drape. Ymmv, and that doesn't work on carpet or soft furniture! I've found it works well on wood, counters, toilets/porcelain, some cabinets, glass, tile (but not grout), metal sinks, etc. I find easier to clean up and so much less painful abd annoying than tripping over plastic draped everywhere.
Buy a wide selection of expensive trim brushes in several sizes, firmness, and angles and return what you don't use. Think of the store as renting you brush choices so everyone can use their preferred brush even after the store closes or someone new shows up to help. (This is $$$$, which is why the idea of 'renting' helps me.)
Buy a huge ass bag of cotton rags and a bottle of bleach and use those for everything. If they're destroyed, compost them, if not, bleach. Mine look like white mechanic cloths. No microfiber or polyester. They clean everything and a handful can stand in for a bathroom towel in a pinch (say paint in your hair or you're too gross to get in a car without risking the seat). They also hold food/pizza when you don't have plates/paper towels.
I'll second the 'bag and forget it' paint tray and brush technique, and I vote skip cleaning with latex paint - if the surface is smooth (paint cups, pour spouts, etc), just let it dry and peel off.
"Orange" pumice soap gets paint off your skin rapidly and somehow doesn't leave my skin as dry/sand blasted as I expect - impressive!
posted by esoteric things at 11:10 PM on May 17
Unlike most other folks here, I'm convinced that taping takes way longer than painting carefully with a high quality stiff trim brush, especiallysince you have to repeat it for wall/trim/ceiling. Only valid for non-carpet floors though.
The order is ceiling, trim, and only then do you do the walls. You'll regret other choices (personal experience on that).
Ceiling you get up quickly and don't be precious about it, then paint moulding/trim carefully and then carefully trim and then paint the walls to cover the ceiling or trim paint that you weren't too careful about.
Consider adding water to your latex paint (or use flow) to think it very slightly to make it easier to apply (less gloppy rollers) and more importantly, to make sure you can keep the wet edge going. I prefer this for wall and ceiling paint but I want trim paint as thick as possible.
Wet edge is critical and makes a huge difference in how blotchy the final job looks when you're moved in.
If you've thinned you probably have enough for an extra coat for high-impact areas (wall with the kitchen light switch, wall near door where shoes were kept, kid's toy wall, etc).
"Trim" is two things - both the molding or decorative wood/etc at the edge of doors, floors, etc, and it's also painting the edge of a wall or ceiling with a brush, like you would do the 'trim' with a string trimmer or edger and a lawnmower for the main yard. That's more properly called 'cutting in' but there's overlap in use.
If you have hardwood floors/laminate/linoleum, buy a scraper-type razor and a whole box of blades. I prefer to let my paint drops dry and then pop them up with the razor rather than crud cutter or vigorous tape/drape. Ymmv, and that doesn't work on carpet or soft furniture! I've found it works well on wood, counters, toilets/porcelain, some cabinets, glass, tile (but not grout), metal sinks, etc. I find easier to clean up and so much less painful abd annoying than tripping over plastic draped everywhere.
Buy a wide selection of expensive trim brushes in several sizes, firmness, and angles and return what you don't use. Think of the store as renting you brush choices so everyone can use their preferred brush even after the store closes or someone new shows up to help. (This is $$$$, which is why the idea of 'renting' helps me.)
Buy a huge ass bag of cotton rags and a bottle of bleach and use those for everything. If they're destroyed, compost them, if not, bleach. Mine look like white mechanic cloths. No microfiber or polyester. They clean everything and a handful can stand in for a bathroom towel in a pinch (say paint in your hair or you're too gross to get in a car without risking the seat). They also hold food/pizza when you don't have plates/paper towels.
I'll second the 'bag and forget it' paint tray and brush technique, and I vote skip cleaning with latex paint - if the surface is smooth (paint cups, pour spouts, etc), just let it dry and peel off.
"Orange" pumice soap gets paint off your skin rapidly and somehow doesn't leave my skin as dry/sand blasted as I expect - impressive!
posted by esoteric things at 11:10 PM on May 17
Best answer: These are all good tips. One I use is to have a tape gun...it's basically a handle with a serrated edge that holds a roll of paper (12" wide) with a roll of tape on one end. When you pull the paper, the tape applies itself along one edge. You can quickly pull, tear and tape a strip of paper on large surfaces like the edges of the floor where it meets the wall trim. When I saw a pro painter do this a bulb went on in my head. Tape off the whole floor edge for an entire room, then put your tarp over the paper edge and tape it down. That way you have a secure drip proof barrier so you can work without being paranoid.
posted by diode at 8:12 PM on May 18 [1 favorite]
posted by diode at 8:12 PM on May 18 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Successfully painted several thousand feet of linear wood trim and several hundred square feet of wall.
What worked well for us: excellent quality trim brushes (Wooster shortcut 2" and Purdy 1"), excellent quality roller covers (Wooster pro doo-z) and 16" roller (faster coverage of walls) with extension pole. We used contractor paper for floor protection taped against the trim. The vanilla trick was awesome and there was very little paint smell to deal with, though we had the HEPA filter running as well. Painting during daylight was really helpful, but I also used a headlamp to do trim since getting coverage there was much easier compared to worrying about wall evenness. I also used grippy gloves (Dex-fit) which helped with gripping paint brushes across multiple hours. We also invested in a 5-in-1 paint tool which made it easier to open paint cans, close them, and clean roller covers.
Thanks, all!
posted by rachaelfaith at 4:33 PM on June 11 [1 favorite]
What worked well for us: excellent quality trim brushes (Wooster shortcut 2" and Purdy 1"), excellent quality roller covers (Wooster pro doo-z) and 16" roller (faster coverage of walls) with extension pole. We used contractor paper for floor protection taped against the trim. The vanilla trick was awesome and there was very little paint smell to deal with, though we had the HEPA filter running as well. Painting during daylight was really helpful, but I also used a headlamp to do trim since getting coverage there was much easier compared to worrying about wall evenness. I also used grippy gloves (Dex-fit) which helped with gripping paint brushes across multiple hours. We also invested in a 5-in-1 paint tool which made it easier to open paint cans, close them, and clean roller covers.
Thanks, all!
posted by rachaelfaith at 4:33 PM on June 11 [1 favorite]
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posted by rachaelfaith at 4:15 PM on May 16