Vancouver Island in December

July 24, 2023 7:46 PM

What’s Vancouver Island like in December? Is it worth visiting? We were thinking about visiting the Wickaninnish Inn in Tofino on Vancouver Island in later December. Storm watching and just kind of snuggling in for a few days sounds like a relaxing and chill way to end the year, but getting there sounds like a lot, and maybe too much of the opposite of the relaxing disconnect we were hoping for.

We’d probably be coming from Seattle. We could rent a car and take a ferry, or we could fly. Normally, I’d say make a road trip out of it, but that seems better suited to summer months, and this post about a (rare?) snowstorm at that time last year makes me think a drive at that time of year might be fraught.

So, are there things we might do on a roadtrip in December that make it worth it, or are we better off looking for a chill disconnect somewhere else? This post suggests Ucluelet is better than Tofino. Is that still the case? Is there something as good or better than the Wickaninnish Inn in Ucluelet that somebody would recommend for this kind of trip?

posted by willnot to Travel & Transportation around British Columbia (11 answers total)

I think you should be prepared to drive in a snowstorm if you decide to visit Tofino in December. With climate change, what used to be rare weather events of all stripes are now a common occurrence, whether it’s snowstorms in the normally balmy southern part of the province or scorching hot summers in the normally cooler northern parts of the province (a lot of BC is on fire right now, for example).

How experienced and comfortable are you driving in winter conditions? Maybe you haven’t always previously lived in Seattle, so I don’t want to make assumptions, but I grew up in Vancouver when it rarely snowed there, and when I moved away, I had to learn to drive in snow—and it was a steep learning curve.

I’m not trying to rain on your parade—but if you are looking for a relaxing holiday, learning to drive in snow/possible blizzard conditions over several hours on a major highway is not what I’d describe as a low-stress activity.

If you do rent a car to do this, make sure it has appropriate tires. In the winter, most highways in BC (including the one you’ll be taking to Tofino or Ucluelet) require appropriate winter tires, defined by the government as “those with either the M+S (mud and snow) or mountain/snowflake symbol, in good condition with a minimum tread depth of 3.5 millimetres.”
posted by hurdy gurdy girl at 8:23 PM on July 24, 2023

Not just a willingness to drive in snow, but a willingness to do it over one of the curviest, narrowest mountain highways I’ve ever driven on. I have always lived in the PNW and drive a lot, and I was low-key stressed driving the road from Port Alberni to Tofino on a warm sunny day.
posted by outfielder at 8:32 PM on July 24, 2023

We stayed in Ucluelet in the middle of January a few years ago. Not at The Wick (which is more towards the Tofino side than Ukee side, FYI). It was at a self-catering place called Water's Edge. Not as swank, but still highly recommend. We soaked in the balcony hot tub as the snow was coming down, it was very cool. And then dried off in front of the fireplace.

Plenty of things to watch out for, though :) the same storms that make your stay there interesting in a good way, might make your trip there interesting in a bad way.

There was a freak snowstorm that came in at that time, the winds were so severe and the waters rough, that our 8am sailing from Horseshoe Bay to Nanaimo didn't leave until around 2pm. We froze our butts off at the ferry terminal waiting area.

Once on the Nanaimo side, we drove across the island and the snow was coming down thick and fast as we went through the mountain pass. Nanaimo to Port Alberni was no big deal, roads were cleared of the snow. After Port Alberni it was pretty dicey. We had snow tires and luckily were able to make it all the way across just going slowly. Lots of cars stuck on the side of the road, though.

Once we were on the western side of the island, we had 3 days of mostly blue skies. A bit of cloud every now and again but other than the crashing waves and how freaking cold it was, it's like, "What storm?" We had a great time exploring both Ucluelet and Tofino and the parks and trails in between.

Personally, I just like to eat out a lot so in hindsight, Tofino probably would have been a better home base. I found Ucluelet to be quieter. Not a bad stay by any means, it's just that being from Vancouver I've gotten very spoiled and driving more than 10-15 mins to/from dinner seems far to me. It's really not, though, it was very manageable.

The drive back to Nanaimo through Highway 4 was better on the way back, the ferry was not too late, and then it started snowing hard again as we exited the terminal on the mainland.

Were we just lucky with the weather? Maybe. Those "freak" snowstorms on the south coast are becoming more and more common so I'd just plan for a storm and make sure you have enough days so if you get delayed on your trip on either end, you won't feel like the entire trip was wasted. And yes, make sure you prep in case you get stranded in your car.

I don't know which has the higher likelihood of getting there when there in a storm - flying or driving/ferry? I felt like we did need a car once we were there to see all the sights, so if flying in, just need to rent one there.

Staying at The Wickaninnish Inn has been a dream of mine! So I hope to make this trip again at some point, and stay there.
posted by tinydancer at 8:33 PM on July 24, 2023

I just read your linked post, referring to last year's storm. That was truly exceptional, and even driving a few blocks around the city was tough. So, while we drove through Highway 4 in a storm, it was nothing like last year's. And I would NOT drive at all if possible, if last year's big dump happens again.
posted by tinydancer at 8:49 PM on July 24, 2023

The Wickanninish Inn is amazing, I stayed there in September 2019 and it was truly magical. They say it is even more spectacular later in the season.

I took the bus to Tofino from Victoria, and it was a bit long (about 5 hours if I remember correctly) but not very crowded and the scenery was beautiful along the way. The hotel sent a car to pick me up at the bus station. Not sure if it still runs or if you are comfortable with it, but it was relatively easy and stress free, and the driver seemed very professional.

The hotel offered to arrange a car rental for me when I was there, but since it was just for a long weekend, I was happy to take a short tour instead, and spend the rest of the time hanging out at the beautiful resort.
posted by rpfields at 8:55 PM on July 24, 2023 [2 favorites]

I've done the winter season many times and I personally think it is the nicer time to go. That said, It will be very wet. Maybe not snowy, but there's a risk. If you have good rain/winter gear then it can still be pretty good for hiking even in the winter.

Wickaninish is very nice and the dining room is pretty spectacular during storms. If you're can get a room facing out over the rocks then you'll be in a good spot. It is also easy to find, so it's a very good choice for your first trip to the area. They have excellent service so flying in to Tofino and having them arrange transport from the airport should be easy to do.

I enjoy the drive, but the road from Port Alberni to Tofino can be downright terrifying in poor conditions. If you're not a confident driver then you may want to avoid it in winter. Definitely don't do it in the dark. It is very windy and narrow, almost single lane in a few places with no lighting. It you don't feel comfortable driving that in pouring rain or on ice or through flooded roads, you should fly in. Weather might be great and perfectly clear, there's just no predicting it so plan for the worst.

During the day you may want to have a rental car just so you have options for visiting different trails. Restaurants and tours will be limited as most things will be closed for the season.
posted by forbiddencabinet at 9:04 PM on July 24, 2023

heads up. Wickaninnish Inn is a surprisingly popular spot over Christmas (far from the madding crowd and all that). If you're serious about it, don't put off booking a reservation.

but the road from Port Alberni to Tofino can be downright terrifying in poor conditions

Vancouver Island is pretty temperate in December, more likely to be wet than cold. Except you need to clear a mountain range to get to Tofino and that can definitely get you into snow. In fact, one of the most frightening driving experiences I've ever had was that narrow and twisting two-lane road in the midst of a major snow storm (heavy rain at sea level).
posted by philip-random at 10:13 PM on July 24, 2023

I love it there, but getting there is a lot. 8 hours from Vancouver, 11 hours from Seattle by the time you factor in ferry and border waits. You do not want to drive Highway 4 in the dark. This leaves flight as the best winter option.

You could fly all the way there, or you could take the seaplane from South Lake Union to Victoria, rent a car, and drive from Victoria. It is handy to have a car to explore the Pacific Rim National Park, and the seaplane is nice. Be aware that the seaplane flies VFR so winter flights often get scrubbed.

I think of Tofino as the Whistler of the sea. It has Whistler prices and Whistler amenities. Ucluelet is the Squamish to Tofino’s Whistler - more locals, more mid-range eateries, less (but not zero) luxury, fewer organized tours. You will not find the equivalent to the Wickanninish Inn in Ucluelet. It is the highest end accommodation and belongs in the luxury location.

You can definitely keep yourself busy in the winter. Surf lessons run, Hot Springs Cove tours run, the water taxi to Big Tree Trail runs. Lots of cancellations due to weather, though, so you have to be flexible. Even if you spend your whole trip getting drenched then coming in to sit by the fire or in tue hot tub, you’ll have a good time. 3 nights is the absolute minimum, more is better.
posted by shock muppet at 11:26 PM on July 24, 2023

Tofino also has all the sandy beaches. If you want sand (which you probably do, since walking on wet rocks is no fun), you want Tofino.
posted by shock muppet at 11:34 PM on July 24, 2023

As a potential alternative, the cabins at Point No Point are on the south shore of the island about an hour's drive from the ferry terminal in Victoria and about 20 minutes past Sooke, the last town of size. The cabins are cozy and lovely, with fireplaces and ocean-facing decks with hot tubs; the property has a good restaurant and two private sand beaches. It's still remote; the only internet is in the main office, there's no cell service, and there's a package in the cabin of candles, flashlights, etc. in case there's a power outage during storms. But you don't have to drive that godawful highway between Alberni and Tofino. There are plenty of beaches, hikes etc. in the area.
posted by Superilla at 9:10 AM on July 25, 2023 [3 favorites]

Tofino and Ucluelet are not so far apart that staying in one precludes visiting the other. At this time of year I would do black rock resort storm watching in Ucluelet.
posted by St. Peepsburg at 9:30 AM on July 25, 2023 [1 favorite]