Should I use epoxy to coat my bar top?

January 22, 2023 8:13 AM

Hello, I'm new to the epoxy world so I would appreciate your feedback. I've just built a new bar top made out of pine wood and I'm looking for a finishing material. I normaly use a wood finish from Varathane . However, I want to try to use table top epoxy from Primo Resin instead as it looks like they have good reviews on their products with decent pricing. Did anyone try this brand or do you recommend any another brand I should try instead? Thank you, Eli
posted by eli_woodworker to Shopping (6 answers total)

IMO, you should finish it with teak oil. Save the epoxy for situations where it is absolutely necessary.
posted by mumimor at 10:24 AM on January 22, 2023

Actually using that at work this week, it's easy to work with, 72 hour complete cure time, very clear.

You'll want a propane torch to eliminate bubbles and the room temp should be over 80 degrees. Wear a respirator and it's very easy and mundane to apply.
posted by Max Power at 10:59 AM on January 22, 2023 [1 favorite]

Hey Eli, welcome aboard-foot; other confessed Mefiwoodwonders here.
posted by BobTheScientist at 11:34 AM on January 22, 2023 [4 favorites]

I'm not a fan of the epoxy look. I used a bunch of coats of Waterlox on my pine slab countertops and it's held up well.
posted by theora55 at 12:38 PM on January 22, 2023

I put satin oil based varnish on my pine dining table and that came out nice. I used the technique where you thin the varnish half and half and use lots of coats. It has already scratched a little within a year of using it, if you look closely (a pottery plant pot did it), but I think we call that 'character'.

Oil based varnishes turn pine yellow, but they do make the grain look good. If yellow is not your colour, you can stain first.
posted by How much is that froggie in the window at 1:06 PM on January 22, 2023 [1 favorite]

I'm not a fan of the epoxy look. I used a bunch of coats of Waterlox on my pine slab countertops and it's held up well.

Bar top finishes are very thick and high gloss, honestly looks wet even after curing. Probably 1/4" to 3/8" thick. The novelty is if the surface gets too scratched you can always buff it out with no concern about breakthrough to the wood.

Conversion varnishes are much thinner and hard as rocks, you can pick the sheen, from matte to high gloss. M.L. Campbell is my go to for that. It's a spray application though, seal, scuff sand, top coat.

I do finishing for a living, it's a process with all products. Waterborne finishes are better than even 10 years ago but in my opinion don't have the durability of K2 finishes. I have seen recently some companies offering catalysts for waterborne finishes which add to the hardness or UV protection.

Haven't used any yet.
posted by Max Power at 1:15 PM on January 22, 2023 [4 favorites]