Please help me find the perfect velvet suit

November 16, 2021 3:42 PM

I have recently become obsessed with the idea of a (black or navy) velvet suit, elegant, more masculine than feminine in cut, but slim fitting (imagine Tom Ford, but for a fat lady). Where would a person go to find such a thing?

As a curvy, somewhat pear-shaped woman in that inconvenient top of straight-sizes/bottom of plus sizes vortex, I'm looking for the kind of of thing I could wear with both oxfords/boots or incongruous heels if I felt so inclined. Say I'm interested enough to throw down a little more cash than usual for this kind of thing.

I'm not looking for a riff on a leisure suit or some holiday party-ish super wide leg pants situation. Those are quite in this season, but if I'm going to spend money here, I'd like it last for a while. I'm in for a glam, decadent party vibe, but a bit buttoned up and while I love Oscar Wilde, I don't exactly want to dress like him (or to put another way, I'd like this to not look too retro or costume-y). And while I know more than a person really should about both fashion and costume history, assume that the only time I've ever tried to buy a suit of any kind was, like, an ill-fitting off-the-rack Banana Republic "interview" pant suit situations, and so I genuinely don't know what I'm talking about here.

I'm aware that this is very specific, kind of unicorn ask, but before I spend money on whatever comes up on google, I'd love some advice.

And yes, I know a velvet suit is the least practical thing ever. I'm not particularly concerned about that.

posted by thivaia to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (11 answers total)

This is a bit of a long-shot, but figured it might be worth suggesting. My husband ordered a made-to-measure suit from Bookster Tailoring for our wedding that turned out great. At the time, I believe they offered womens coats as well, but I don't see them on the site any more. They're a small business, so it might be worth enquiring if it's something they could still do, depending on how much you're willing to spend to get the suit.

It sounds like an amazing suit, and now I kind of want one too.
posted by duien at 4:02 PM on November 16, 2021 [3 favorites]

Best answer: If you have to buy off-the-rack, shoulder-width in jackets is the hardest thing to alter, so make sure you get that number right. Otherwise, buy a little too big in your largest dimension and get it tailored. I don't think you'll be able to skip that part unless you go custom from scratch. It occurs to me that there might be some suit makers or sellers who are conscious of customers of varied genders and can accomodate (or at least) talk in terms of not just modifying a men's suit.

Velvet suits are perfect for a few things, but that doesn't make them impractical! That's only if you're low on closet space or food. A suit like this is merely special, and for me that's reason enough. :)
posted by rhizome at 4:12 PM on November 16, 2021 [4 favorites]

Men's suits (and suit separates) make assumptions about the rest of your body based on your chest measurement. I'd be worried that anything that fits your boobs and hips will require too much reconstruction to fit your shoulders correctly (and if it fits your shoulders it might not accommodate the rest of you). If you can throw enough money at the problem, bespoke tailoring is totally the way to go. I'd wager there are costume makers out there still suffering from pandemic theater closures who would be excited about this idea.

But you could try going to a department store with a wide selection of both mens' and boys' suits and maybe at least come close to finding your size in something off the rack, and then go on the internet to see if you can find something that size that meets your style. But also if you like everything about an off the rack ("women's") suit except the wide leg pants, tapering those is an easy, cheap fix as long as they don't have a tuxedo stripe (says the guy who inherited his big brother's bell bottom tuxedo for high school band – I think my mom paid more to have the legs and lapels narrowed than she'd have paid for a new tux).
posted by fedward at 4:52 PM on November 16, 2021 [1 favorite]

I have a navy velvet (short pile) suit with a subtle pinstripe from Ann Taylor that I really love. Their clothing is very well made, and has lasted me over a decade. I did have it tailored as I am also curvier than their fit model.

I see that Poshmark has several Ann Taylor velvet suits, tho it can be a bit of a waiting game to find the size and style you'd like, but if you have the time you can get a very well made suit at an excellent price point.
posted by ananci at 4:56 PM on November 16, 2021 [1 favorite]

In my experience, the best solution is to have a bespoke suite made for you. if there are young designers in your area, you can both have something special made for you and support a new talent. It won't necessarily cost a lot more than high end off the rack clothes.
Gather some ideas in the form of images from magazines and the internet. Vintage is good, because it leaves some space for contemporary interpretation.
posted by mumimor at 5:11 PM on November 16, 2021 [2 favorites]

Best answer: You want Bindle & Keep. Their Instagram is filled with divine suits on many body types. Someday I will also buy a velvet suit from them.
posted by chuke at 5:49 PM on November 16, 2021 [9 favorites]

I am also a woman with similar proportions and fashion proclivities in the same size range as you. Here to second Bindle & Keep, as I've been coveting one of their suits for *years* - but will be following this closely to see if someone has a more off-the-rack suggestion, as custom suits are not in the budget for me right now.
posted by sparkling at 6:15 PM on November 16, 2021 [2 favorites]

This is only limitedly helpful, but if you're looking for a more off-the-rack version Universal Standard had a velvet suit last holiday season that I coveted and then (stupidly) forgot to buy it before it was gone. You can see some of the other color versions here and here but there was also a black version, so if you like the look of these it may be worth doing some hunting on Poshmark or ThredUp. Poshmark tends to have a decent selection of Universal Standard (don't forget to take any size filters off when searching since they use a non-standard sizing system and people are inconsistent in how whether they list the sizing). Sadly this holiday season it looks like they're only doing blazers and not the full suit.
posted by wuzandfuzz at 6:34 PM on November 16, 2021 [3 favorites]

I would have this custom made by Rachelle Appelle in LA.
posted by shadygrove at 7:00 PM on November 16, 2021 [1 favorite]

Universal Standard currently carries a black velvet blazer, though it sounds like you're looking for a more tailored fit. Bindle & Keep is the dream option if you have the budget.
posted by ourobouros at 8:23 PM on November 16, 2021 [1 favorite]

God DAMN it metafilter! I don't need a bespoke suit. I didn't want a bespoke suit. But that Bindle and Keep site has me in a spell!
posted by jebs at 2:43 AM on November 17, 2021 [8 favorites]