Perfumeheads, lend me your noses ... Iris edition
August 15, 2020 9:17 AM Subscribe
I'm looking for a new everyday scent because my faves keep getting discontinued, and maybe you can help. I was happily wearing Korres (Greek company) Iris Lily of the Valley Cotton (similar to Prada Infusion d'Iris) for years, and for several years before that Ivoire by Balmain (not the flanker Eau d'Ivoire!), also discontinued. Now I'm wearing Van Cleef & Arpels Collection Extraordinaire Bois d'Iris, but it's not quite right for me...
Without knowing much about perfume, I have navigated naturally toward iris scents, only realizing later that it was the common ingredient in most perfumes I like ... but I only like a certain kind, and I don't know how to articulate or search for the right sort of iris. The iris scents I like tend to be characterized as "melancholy," though my feeling about them is a bit different. (More like, how you can feel cozy, content, dreamy and snug indoors on an icy, stormy day vs feeling oppressed, heavy and headachey on a hot, sunny day — I like the feeling of an aura of chilliness enclosing a heart of gentle, tender warmth).
Abject failures: I don't mind "powdery" but there's one kind of iris scent that repels me, and I found it in Chanel N ° 19 Poudre (I think! it was a sample on eBay, and may not have been authentic), and L' Erbolario Iris: very cosmetic/powdery heavy, very loud, very oppressive. I scrubbed my wrists to try to get these off, though others love them. They gave me the same reaction as Estee Lauder Youth Dew, which I loathe.
Probably like or possibly love: Hermes Hiris. I haven't had the chance to try this beyond a fleeting spray in a department store, but it's also too expensive for me. I liked what I tried, but it was barely a presence on my skin that very warm day of walking about quite a lot. That could actually be okay, or even ideal, but my experience is severely limited, and I'd like a more affordable option.
Not quite there: Prada Infusion d'Iris is a bit too chilly and severe — it lacks the cozy center that the Korres Iris had. The Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Iris is nice, but a bit too sweet for me. The composition is "amber, labdanum, vanilla, gray amber, myrrh, vetiver, iris, driftwood, frankincense, sugar," and I think the problem lies is in the "sugar," and maybe "vanilla." I tried Jacomo Silences as it has been suggested as similar to Ivoire, and it's really, really not. It's nice enough, but it seemed pretty flat and uninteresting to me. I don't know how to describe that, but what I seek is sort of lilting, maybe a bit airy, but also complex. I tried a sample of Le Galion Iris and liked it quite a lot, but it seems that this has also been discontinued. (Not sure, but it's not available from any of the places I order from and existing offers are quite high, the way they get for remaining stock of discontinued scents.)
Other: I don't like much more than I do like when it comes to perfumes for myself. I don't like fruity, sweet, spicy, gourmands, orientals, aquatics, citruses, or heavy floral. I don't like "sexy" or "innocent." I don't usually like soliflores. I like green notes, but if a scent is described as "green," I usually don't like it; likewise "woody," "musky" or "leather." As part of a composition they're fine, but if that's the word to describe the scent, then it's too much "that." I really don't like rose scents. I kind of like some of the old 80s scents like Van Cleef & Arpel First, and Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche (that sort of "group" of scents), but they seem way too forward and loud. I like "light but complex," "aloof but intriguing." I like "wrapped in a mist, fleeting." I like "clean, cool, calm, but a bit mysterious." What I like is elusive, both in terms of finding it, and how it presents!
I would very happily go back to wearing either the Korres Iris or Balmain Ivoire if I could, but that's not an option, and I can't spend too much money looking around. eBay samples are still quite expensive with shipping to my location, and I'm not going out to department stores to sniff bottles, so I'd love some direction!
Right now I'm thinking of trying Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue as a blind buy. Any thoughts on that one? Also, I could probably afford to get the Hermes Hiris once a year for my birthday or something and make it last. I'm just not sure on that one, but will try to test it again if I can, so if you have opinions on that, please share! (Also, sorry for the length, but you know how difficult it is to talk about scent characteristics ... the phrase "dancing about architecture" comes to mind, so I tried to give more info rather than less!)
Without knowing much about perfume, I have navigated naturally toward iris scents, only realizing later that it was the common ingredient in most perfumes I like ... but I only like a certain kind, and I don't know how to articulate or search for the right sort of iris. The iris scents I like tend to be characterized as "melancholy," though my feeling about them is a bit different. (More like, how you can feel cozy, content, dreamy and snug indoors on an icy, stormy day vs feeling oppressed, heavy and headachey on a hot, sunny day — I like the feeling of an aura of chilliness enclosing a heart of gentle, tender warmth).
Abject failures: I don't mind "powdery" but there's one kind of iris scent that repels me, and I found it in Chanel N ° 19 Poudre (I think! it was a sample on eBay, and may not have been authentic), and L' Erbolario Iris: very cosmetic/powdery heavy, very loud, very oppressive. I scrubbed my wrists to try to get these off, though others love them. They gave me the same reaction as Estee Lauder Youth Dew, which I loathe.
Probably like or possibly love: Hermes Hiris. I haven't had the chance to try this beyond a fleeting spray in a department store, but it's also too expensive for me. I liked what I tried, but it was barely a presence on my skin that very warm day of walking about quite a lot. That could actually be okay, or even ideal, but my experience is severely limited, and I'd like a more affordable option.
Not quite there: Prada Infusion d'Iris is a bit too chilly and severe — it lacks the cozy center that the Korres Iris had. The Van Cleef & Arpels Bois d'Iris is nice, but a bit too sweet for me. The composition is "amber, labdanum, vanilla, gray amber, myrrh, vetiver, iris, driftwood, frankincense, sugar," and I think the problem lies is in the "sugar," and maybe "vanilla." I tried Jacomo Silences as it has been suggested as similar to Ivoire, and it's really, really not. It's nice enough, but it seemed pretty flat and uninteresting to me. I don't know how to describe that, but what I seek is sort of lilting, maybe a bit airy, but also complex. I tried a sample of Le Galion Iris and liked it quite a lot, but it seems that this has also been discontinued. (Not sure, but it's not available from any of the places I order from and existing offers are quite high, the way they get for remaining stock of discontinued scents.)
Other: I don't like much more than I do like when it comes to perfumes for myself. I don't like fruity, sweet, spicy, gourmands, orientals, aquatics, citruses, or heavy floral. I don't like "sexy" or "innocent." I don't usually like soliflores. I like green notes, but if a scent is described as "green," I usually don't like it; likewise "woody," "musky" or "leather." As part of a composition they're fine, but if that's the word to describe the scent, then it's too much "that." I really don't like rose scents. I kind of like some of the old 80s scents like Van Cleef & Arpel First, and Yves St. Laurent Rive Gauche (that sort of "group" of scents), but they seem way too forward and loud. I like "light but complex," "aloof but intriguing." I like "wrapped in a mist, fleeting." I like "clean, cool, calm, but a bit mysterious." What I like is elusive, both in terms of finding it, and how it presents!
I would very happily go back to wearing either the Korres Iris or Balmain Ivoire if I could, but that's not an option, and I can't spend too much money looking around. eBay samples are still quite expensive with shipping to my location, and I'm not going out to department stores to sniff bottles, so I'd love some direction!
Right now I'm thinking of trying Guerlain's L'Heure Bleue as a blind buy. Any thoughts on that one? Also, I could probably afford to get the Hermes Hiris once a year for my birthday or something and make it last. I'm just not sure on that one, but will try to test it again if I can, so if you have opinions on that, please share! (Also, sorry for the length, but you know how difficult it is to talk about scent characteristics ... the phrase "dancing about architecture" comes to mind, so I tried to give more info rather than less!)
You mention that eBay samples are too pricey, but have you tried places like The Perfumed Court? They have a couple of Iris samplers that might help you find something that feels right. And if reading reviews seems helpful to you, I love Bois de Jasmin.
posted by dizziest at 10:04 AM on August 15, 2020 [5 favorites]
posted by dizziest at 10:04 AM on August 15, 2020 [5 favorites]
It looks like you like the combination of iris and an incensey undertone, like Amber, frankincense, benzoin, myrrh... These are resins which have this very specific undertone that isn't woodsy, but is interesting and an undertone to the floral notes.
posted by AlexiaSky at 10:08 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by AlexiaSky at 10:08 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
It has been years since I've tried L'Heure Bleue, but I am an iris-head and I don't recall it as especially iris-y. Sorry I can't add more. I just wear Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist but it's probably a bit too earthy/one-note for your taste.
posted by acidic at 11:04 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by acidic at 11:04 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
Maybe Debaser by D.S. & Durga? Main notes are ripe fig, iris, and coconut milk. The opening is very green, but once it mellows out it’s cool, earthy, slightly fruity, and not at all sweet. I think “aloof but intriguing” is an apt descriptor.
posted by arkady at 11:11 AM on August 15, 2020 [2 favorites]
posted by arkady at 11:11 AM on August 15, 2020 [2 favorites]
L’Heure Bleue will probably have too much of a vintage tone for you. Bruno Fazzolari Feu Secret is my favorite iris, a little smokey. Luckyscent is currently sold out of samples but Fumerie has some. Iris 39 from Le Labo is another good option.
posted by matildaben at 11:11 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by matildaben at 11:11 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
You may have read this already but I found this interesting piece about Korres Pure Cotton - have you tried it? It also goes into the differences between Chanel 19 and 19 Poudre. And, the comments section flagged Frederic Malle L'eau D'Hiver as an Infusion D'Iris sibling. It's pretty heavy on the heliotrope, but you might like it!
Also just in researching the Korres Iris LOTV I see a lot on Ebay. I'm sure you already know but just in case.
posted by acidic at 11:23 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
Also just in researching the Korres Iris LOTV I see a lot on Ebay. I'm sure you already know but just in case.
posted by acidic at 11:23 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
At a quick glance through Perfumes the Guide and Fragrantica, if you're going to splash out on Guerlain, you might try Après l'Ondée before l'Heure Bleue. But you need to go to a counter and compare them, really.
posted by zadcat at 11:48 AM on August 15, 2020
posted by zadcat at 11:48 AM on August 15, 2020
Someone here turned me onto Surrender to Chance when I was looking for perfume sample by note, and it's a wonderful resource. Read about Iris perfumes here, (includes a list to an even more comprehensive discussion and a variety of inexpensive samplers of iris-based scents.)
posted by fingersandtoes at 11:52 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by fingersandtoes at 11:52 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
La Vie Est Belle By Lancôme is mostly Iris. It’s also not too sweet, as I recall.
posted by MonsieurBon at 12:11 PM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by MonsieurBon at 12:11 PM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
I am also a fan of Prada L’Infusion d’Iris and know what you mean about it being a bit too chilly. Have you tried L’Infusion Homme? It is *exactly* the same as Iris, just warmer. Very unisex. Worth sampling.
posted by apparently at 12:17 PM on August 15, 2020 [2 favorites]
posted by apparently at 12:17 PM on August 15, 2020 [2 favorites]
Sephora gives good-sized perfume samples... I'd go sniff around and try some things out! I can't really imagine buying perfume from a verbal description.
posted by nouvelle-personne at 10:23 PM on August 15, 2020
posted by nouvelle-personne at 10:23 PM on August 15, 2020
I recently sniffed Zarkoperfume The Muse, and it reminded me of the Korres perfume you like.
posted by exquisite_deluxe at 10:36 PM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
posted by exquisite_deluxe at 10:36 PM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]
Response by poster: Thanks for these suggestions and ideas, everyone! I put perfume purchasing on hold for a bit because of an unexpected expense, but am ready to start trying a few things now. I found a travel size of The Muse exquisite_deluxe mentioned, and have ordered that as the first!
posted by taz at 8:15 AM on September 18, 2020
posted by taz at 8:15 AM on September 18, 2020
This thread is closed to new comments.
posted by jgirl at 9:48 AM on August 15, 2020 [1 favorite]