I want a new bike
June 9, 2020 2:55 PM   Subscribe

I'm looking to get a new bike for commuting and all-around riding and am leaning to something in the cyclocross/gravel bike mold. My budget is around $2,000 CAD ($1,500 USD/£1,200). What should I be looking for?

My current bike is a $600 mountain bike that I've had for the last 14 years. I've kept it in good condition and it still rides well but it is time for something new and faster.

Here are 4 bikes that all look roughly equivalent to me:
MEC Provincial Road 222 Bicycle
Cannondale 2020 CAADX 105 Bicycle
Cannondale 2020 Topstone 105 Bicycle
Brodie Romax Comp

At this price range the Shimano 105 groupset seems to be the best available. How much of a difference will it make if the bike has a Tiagra or SRAM Rival groupset? I imagine everything will be significantly better than what I have now regardless.

On the MEC Provincial I can see holes sticking out of the frame where I could attach a rear rack. I can't see them on the other ones. How would I attach a rear rack to the other bikes?

Do one of these bikes stand out as better than the others. Do you have a recommendation for a different bike?
posted by any portmanteau in a storm to Sports, Hobbies, & Recreation (26 answers total) 9 users marked this as a favorite
 
In that price range, you might also want to take a look at the Jamis Renegade F3 and the All-City Space Horse. Both have plenty of rack and bottle cage mounts.
posted by brianogilvie at 3:16 PM on June 9, 2020


A couple of years ago I bought a 650B Kona Rove NRB and have been thrilled with it, though mine's not quite stock. I had the shop set it up tubeless, exchanged the pedals for a platform/srs combination model, and also swapped in a different crankset, chainrings and front derailleur to get the gearing where I wanted it (lower than standard).

I highly recommend test-riding various models if you can. "Gravel bike" is a loose term, covering a range of frame geometries and handling characteristics.
posted by jon1270 at 3:30 PM on June 9, 2020


It looks like all of the bikes you listed except for the CAADX can accept a rear rack (you can see the eyelets near the top of the rear triangle). For frames without eyelets you could use p-clamps. The first three on your list have hydraulic disc brakes, which are generally regarded as "better" (better performance/more expensive) though I personally don't mind mechanical brakes - cleaner to work on, and the braking power has always been enough for me. The Brodie's TRP Spyre-Cs are generally agreed to be the "best" mechanical disc brake calipers.

You might already know this but the Shimano and SRAM brake/shift levers (STI vs DoubleTap) work slightly differently.

Another similar bike might be the Kona Rove ST. Seconding the recommendation to test ride as much as possible - you might find that you have preferences (or a lack of preference) where you didn't expect!
posted by btfreek at 3:34 PM on June 9, 2020


Any particular reason you're looking more at cyclocross and gravel bikes rather than commuter/urban/city bikes? Touring bikes are another option. Though, there's a lot of overlap in how these various bikes are marketed. But urban/commuter bikes should certainly come ready for racks and might have fenders already installed.

Surly is a well-respected bike. Perhaps you have a shop that could build up a Cross-Check for you?

I definitely encourage you, though, to ride as many of these bikes as you can, if that's an option right now. The difference between two similar bikes could be that one just feels a lot better and more comfortable when you ride it.
posted by bluedaisy at 3:44 PM on June 9, 2020


Maybe take a look at a Surly Long Haul Trucker. There is clearance to put pretty fat tires on them, if that's your thing.
posted by They sucked his brains out! at 3:44 PM on June 9, 2020 [1 favorite]


You are me, a couple of years ago, and I agree that a gravel/cross bike is exactly what you want (provided "I want to go fast, but also be comfortable" is a priority). On preview, others have said similar things, so I'll just share my experience:

My daily ride is a 2018 Marin Gestalt X10; the 2020 model is bang on your price point, and if I was buying now, based on my experience with the 2018 model, that's what I'd buy - it just feels really great to ride, in nearly every situation; it's fast, handles well on- and off-road and never surprises me.

Specifically, it's got that slightly relaxed geometry (but with drop bars for laying down the power) combined with clearance for fatter tyres (compared to a pure road bike) you'd expect of a gravel bike, but it's also got 1x gearing - if you're not planning on doing any big hill climbs (or, conversely, high-ratio speed trials) then the single front chainring brings means simplified mechs (and so easier maintenance) and more money has been spent on other components. It's got mechanical discs and, while there's definitely a noticeable difference in response over time compared to hydraulics, I think both are such a substantial upgrade vs. rim callipers, especially for any kind of off-road riding, that it's kind of moot. (oh, and it's got rack-mounting points, which was also an important consideration for me, too).

But yeah, test-ride if you can. I tried three or four bikes that looked very similar on paper in terms of spec, but the X10 was the one that clicked for me.
posted by parm at 3:45 PM on June 9, 2020


Response by poster: Both the Shimano and SRAM shifters will be different from the rapid-fire ones I have on my current bike so it'll be an adjustment either way.

The 1x11 gearing is new to me. My current bike is a 24-speed and I get how I don't use all of them so simplifying things might make a better bike overall but at the same time it does seem a bit weird being "limited" to just 11 speeds. A 2x11 feels closer to what I have currently. My commute involves going across a valley so there's a big up and down hill each way. Am I going to miss the extra gears with a 1x11 gearing?

As far as cyclocross/gravel as opposed to commuter/urban there does seem to be a lot of overlap. Like on the MEC site I think the 3 bikes I linked will show up under all of the categories. I am looking for a bike which has me leaning forward more than sitting upright - on my current bike I've over time raised my seat about as high as it goes so that I'm leaning forward as I've found I prefer that position.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 4:13 PM on June 9, 2020


Gravel bikes are increasingly positioned by manufacturers as 'do it all' bikes. Earlier this year I got a gravel bike (2020 Specialized Diverge E5 Comp) to replace an 8-year-old cyclocross-style (Specialized TriCross Comp) that was stolen. I cycle for fun as much as I do for commuting, and many of the gravel-style bikes are well suited for both. I've been happy with the Diverge and can recommend taking a serious look at it if recreational use is as important as commuting for you. I'd say the closest comparison in the list you provided would be the Cannondale Topstone.

The main differences between a gravel bike and a cyclocross-style bike (or a standard road bike for that matter) are the wider tires and more relaxed geometry of the gravel-style frame, which make for a less racey ride, less aggressive steering, and increased stability. While all of that makes it a tiny bit less fun for recreational riding, it does make it more appealing for commuting and more comfortable for longer touring-type rides. My Diverge also has lots of attachment points for panniers, racks, and fenders, though I can't say that's true for all gravel bikes. Lastly, though it may seem gimicky, the Future Shock suspension on the Diverge really is great. It's not just that it smooths out rough rides, it also reduces fatigue in your body by dampening all the little shocks you encounter even on relatively good roads over a long ride.

Since you mentioned components, I'm a big fan of the 105 groupset. It's really not far off performance-wise from its higher end siblings and it was worth it to me to get a cheaper aluminum frame with the 105 set rather than a more expensive carbon frame with Tiagra. That said, the hit you take with Tiagra performance-wise and weight-wise is pretty minimal. I definitely recommend 2x11 gearing if you've got some hills to deal with. It's not so much the extra gears you'll miss with a single chainring, it's that the gears you do have can have some awkward increments.

I love talking bikes and answering questions, so hit me up on MeMail if you want more details.
posted by theory at 4:29 PM on June 9, 2020 [1 favorite]


I can personally recommend the Brodie touring bikes as excellent all-round bikes. I have a ~6 year old Argus (discontinued) that I've used for year-round commuting in Vancouver (hilly!), weekend road rides and bike camping trips. The touring geometry is forward but not aggressive, easy to keep my head up in traffic. Touring bikes are generally pretty similar to CX bikes. The Brodie Elan or Elan Vital or Surly LHT might be worth checking out. I think the bikes you linked to would be good choices as well.
posted by no regrets, coyote at 4:42 PM on June 9, 2020


I live in Pittsburgh (oh, such hills!) and like my 2x10 setup. I don’t bop back and forth between chainrings trying to find the perfect ratio; i just work through cogs until I hit the end of the freewheel before clicking the front derailleur over. After a brief period of initial cable stretch and necessary adjustments, it’s been very reliable and low-maintenance. That’s despite it being a 105 front derailleur, Sram mountain crank, Tiagra levers and rear derailleur, and off-brand stock freewheel.
posted by jon1270 at 4:45 PM on June 9, 2020


I ride a Surly Midnight Special, which is in this category. It is so much fun, but possibly a bit beyond your price range. I mostly commute on it, 6-9 miles each way, mostly on paved bike path, but I also do some recreational riding on other kinds of surfaces. Get a gravel grinder, you won’t regret it!
posted by juliapangolin at 5:33 PM on June 9, 2020


I worked in bike manufacturing for 20 years for multiple high end companies that you’ve likely heard of. My personal rock solid gravel ride is the Kona Sutra . The product manager that put this bike together did a great job - triple crank, bar end shifters, and cable actuated disk brakes, nothing fancy, but everything works reliably. It comes with real northwest-style fenders, front and rear rack mounts and a sturdy rack. I’m not personally a fan of Brooks saddles, but it’s a high quality specification. I never worked at Kona, but I paid retail for this bike - it’ll get you thru an apocalypse and it’s pretty fun to ride. Does it corner like a race bike? No. Does it corner hard enough to make my kid in the bike seat squeal and laugh? Yes. (Mommy misses her criterium days, sometimes.)
posted by chuke at 6:50 PM on June 9, 2020 [2 favorites]


Just made this decision on Monday. I went with the Topstone Sora. The 105 would have been nice, but I couldn't justify $500 for more stopping power. Researched the hell out of it and it was the highest rated gravel bike by many biking sites.
posted by bfranklin at 7:27 PM on June 9, 2020


I adore 1x gearing, so much easier to ride, especially going from single speed to my first geared bike in years. It’s slightly more common to find myself wanting to be between two of the gears, but the range is the same as you would have gotten on almost any 2x bike up to about 5 years ago. The technology to allow wider range cassettes is really incredible, at least on the SRAM group I have, which I really prefer to Shimano.
posted by supercres at 7:30 PM on June 9, 2020 [1 favorite]


Seconding both Kona Rove ST and Kona Sutra, great allround bikes with a comfortable steel frame. Not sure about the Sutra's current price range though? Anyhow, both do have rear rack mounts, or mounts for just about anything, really – the frames are very bikepacking-friendly. The sturdier Sutra is my "draught horse" of a bike that I fit with studded 2.25" MTB tyres during the winter (Schwalbe Ice Spiker Pro). When I want to ride a bit faster, mainly on gravel or quiet tarmac roads, I take the Rove.

If it's up to me, i.e. parts will be available forever, I'm never getting rid of 1x11 gearing. All my bikes ranging from a fatbike to the Rove ST are 1x11 and I feel this gets me the most ease and comfort of riding with the least need of maintenance, adjustment and general hassle.
posted by kaarne at 12:31 AM on June 10, 2020


Just one more mention for Surly. This is their wheelhouse, so to speak.

I ride a Surly Ogre, which is probably leaning more off-road than you are looking for, but the benefit of Surly's is they are explicitly designed to set up any which way you wish. Racks, bags, trailers, bottle holders, fenders, whichever you want, there are barnacles for them.

Enjoy your new ride.
posted by wile e at 2:26 AM on June 10, 2020


You had 24 speeds, which probably means 3x8. Honestly, there's a LOT of overlap in setups like that. (So much so that nowadays it's almost difficult to even FIND a 3x setups -- it's back to dual chainrings or 1x setups.)

On an 8-speed cassette, either you have a drastically reduced total range, or your jumps between gears are much larger, if not both. With an 11-speed cassette, you can go from 11 to 28 (eg) in much smaller steps, which makes for much smoother/more pleasant shifting transitions. On some 1x setups, the range is even wider -- 11-32 or more, but that typically means a long-cage rear derailleur.)

The long & short of it is that you absolutely will not be unhappy with 1x11 coming from 3x8 *unless* you live somwhere very hilly. If that's the case, though, the answer is 2x11.

The hints for Surly are great, but be aware that a Surly is typically a heavy bike. They're steel, which has GREAT ride quality, but that smoothness comes at a cost in weight.

I have a Cross-Check, and the difference between it and a more traditional carbon bike is enormous. I put wider tires on it to use as a gravel bike, and it's fine for that, but I'm still pulling up the rear on our rides and a good chunk of why is that most of my pals are on 18-20 pound carbon wonders.

Anyway, your probable best frame choices here are the CC, Straggler, or the new Midnight Special.

105 is, generally speaking, going to be a worthy upgrade for you.
posted by uberchet at 5:55 AM on June 10, 2020


Response by poster: I went to a bike shop today and it was an interesting experience. There was a long lineup outside and they weren't letting anyone inside the store but I was able to talk with one of their employees and he brought out 2 bikes that fit what we've been talking about. A Specialized Diverge E5 Comp like what theory mentioned and a Giant Revolt 0. They both looked pretty good. Both bikes have 2x11 gearing. The Giant has Shimano 105 hydraulic brakes which should be better than the ones on the Specialized(?). They didn't have the Specialized in my size at that store but they'd be able to get it next week.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:17 AM on June 10, 2020


The hints for Surly are great, but be aware that a Surly is typically a heavy bike. They're steel, which has GREAT ride quality, but that smoothness comes at a cost in weight.

Steel may feel a lot better on your joints, if your ride is bumpy.

Salsa is another maker of steel-frame bikes and may also have something in your spec/price range.

I had an aluminium Fuji before my Salsa Vaya, and my aging joints appreciated the change.
posted by They sucked his brains out! at 3:27 PM on June 10, 2020


The Specialized Diverge E5 Comp I see online is $2100, and has really nice Shimano GRX hydro brakes on it. Did the shop guy suggest to you that GRX was inferior to 105? Because that's not the case -- GRX is Spec's gravel-specific stuff, and exists in parallel.

It's probably a GREAT bike, but if you're in for $2100, take time to at least demo the next step up, which subs in a carbon frame and equivalently-cool SRAM components instead of Shimano. It'll be much lighter and give you a MUCH better ride for $2500, and you might find the additional cost worth it (or you might find you prefer the feel of SRAM shifting to Shimano; lots of folks do).
posted by uberchet at 4:28 PM on June 10, 2020


Response by poster: The one at the shop looks like it was the 2019 model with Tektro mechanical brakes.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 6:14 PM on June 10, 2020


I’m enough to remember when butted steel frames were virtually universal, and when aluminum enjoyed the sort if hype that carbon gets now. I’ve managed to break a (cheap) steel frame. I’ve owned 2 aluminum bikes, one of which was quite harsh (early fat-tube Cannondale) and one that’s not harsh at all (Kona), and broken neither. I’ve test-ridden a high-end Bianchi hybrid carbon/aluminum cyclocross bike that was light but far too twitchy, and shuddered disconcertingly during braking. I’ve also test-ridden a well-reviewed all-carbon gravel bike that was also very light... and felt like riding a wet sponge.

Generalities about materials and technologies are insufficient for discerning what will truly click for you. Test-ride a lot of bikes.
posted by jon1270 at 3:35 AM on June 11, 2020


Jon1270 what was the "well-reviewed all-carbon gravel bike"? Don't leave me hanging!

I've owned a number of gravel bikes over the past few years, steel, aluminum and carbon, different groups, setups, etc. I love my current ride, a 2019 Specialized Diverge Comp with 105. The Future Shock is on the "lowest" setting and I've got it running tubeless. I love riding this thing so much. I haven't taken it on the range of grave that I rode my previous bike on (Argon 18 Dark Matter). I don't know that I could embrace a 1x yet.

So, in terms of a commute rig, depending on the hills you have to deal with, you may want your bags on your body or the bike. When I was commuting from Manhattan to Brooklyn, and my biggest hill was the Williamsburg or Queensboro Bridge, then carrying my stuff in a pannier on a rear rack was not a big deal. However, my subsequent commutes were longer and hillier, and panniers became more annoying. I got a Camelbak Mule backpack, and that's been my daily bag since then. Yeah, my back gets a lot sweatier, but I just carry an extra shirt and change into office pants when I get there. I also ride with mtb shoes, with SPD pedals, and change into indoor shoes. Platform pedals on a hilly ride is a huge waste of energy.
posted by computech_apolloniajames at 7:09 AM on June 11, 2020


Tektro would definitely be a step down from 105, but they're probably still fine. Spec doesn't sell crap.

I disagree with jon1270 about aluminum at this point -- I've never ridden any AL bike that could touch steel, ti, or carbon for ride quality -- but he's absolutely right that you should ride lots of things before pulling the trigger.
posted by uberchet at 9:07 AM on June 11, 2020


Don't leave me hanging!

Sorry, didn’t mean to be mysterious but I don’t remember the brand on that one.
posted by jon1270 at 11:49 AM on June 11, 2020 [1 favorite]


Response by poster: In case anyone is wondering, I ended up getting the Giant. I think it stuck in my head because it was the first one I actually got to handle in person so everything else got compared to it and didn't seem appreciably better. Thanks all for the recommendations and general bike info.
posted by any portmanteau in a storm at 11:19 AM on June 15, 2020


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