Is there any DIY finish that would make this tabletop durable?
November 25, 2019 4:33 AM Subscribe
We'd like this dining table. But it's painted veneer over engineered wood (i.e., MDF, I think), and a bunch of the reviews note that it doesn't wear well: it blisters, scratches, and gets water damage. Is there a DIY coating or other treatment that would make it durable?
We'd use this table every day both for meals and as a work surface for laptops. Our cats would jump up on it, which did scratch a veneered table we used to have.
Crate and Barrel says to use coasters, placemats, and trivets, but we're not up for that all the time. We've also rejected constant use of a tablecloth, a table pad, or a glass top. If we can't make the tabletop itself durable, we'll give up on this one.
But its width, shape, extendability, and aesthetic all work for our space better than a zillion other tables, so if there is a way to coat or treat it, we'd be up for the effort. It has a wax topcoat, and Crate and Barrel suggests maintaining it with beeswax. I'm wondering if there's something much more robust that would make it work for us. Is there?
(We know one other option is to ask a furniture maker to build something similar instead.)
We'd use this table every day both for meals and as a work surface for laptops. Our cats would jump up on it, which did scratch a veneered table we used to have.
Crate and Barrel says to use coasters, placemats, and trivets, but we're not up for that all the time. We've also rejected constant use of a tablecloth, a table pad, or a glass top. If we can't make the tabletop itself durable, we'll give up on this one.
But its width, shape, extendability, and aesthetic all work for our space better than a zillion other tables, so if there is a way to coat or treat it, we'd be up for the effort. It has a wax topcoat, and Crate and Barrel suggests maintaining it with beeswax. I'm wondering if there's something much more robust that would make it work for us. Is there?
(We know one other option is to ask a furniture maker to build something similar instead.)
Something that costs that much should not need to be modified to be functional. I think paying someone to make it out of solid wood would be a great investment. It will last forever.
posted by mareli at 4:42 AM on November 25, 2019 [9 favorites]
posted by mareli at 4:42 AM on November 25, 2019 [9 favorites]
I was SHOCKED when I saw the price of that thing. That's a very simple table, and you should able to find someone locally who could build it for less with a better finish. A glass top would be my next suggestion, because you're probably not going to be happy with the results with any kind of finish you put over painted MDF, except maybe epoxy, but that would take a fair amount of work/skill to get right (not to mention a PERFECTLY level floor.
posted by jonathanhughes at 5:25 AM on November 25, 2019 [2 favorites]
posted by jonathanhughes at 5:25 AM on November 25, 2019 [2 favorites]
Good heavens, please don't support this kind of construction by paying that asking price.
posted by amtho at 5:31 AM on November 25, 2019 [5 favorites]
posted by amtho at 5:31 AM on November 25, 2019 [5 favorites]
Response by poster: Hey all, as mentioned in my post, we’re aware we could have it made or top it with glass. I haven’t found someone local who could make it for a good price (delivered and with the self-storing extensions to seat 12 included). We agree it’s overpriced for what it is, and I posted this question now because with Black Friday coming, we wonder if it will go on sale. If no coating would work well, that’s helpful to know.
posted by daisyace at 5:37 AM on November 25, 2019 [3 favorites]
posted by daisyace at 5:37 AM on November 25, 2019 [3 favorites]
So what you have there is 'engineered wood', which could be MDF, although the term is often used for plywood. On top of that you have an oak veneer (thickness uncertain) and over that you have acrylic paint.
A glass top is likely to be a pain if you ever plan to extend the table, as you'll have to store the glass, and the table will be vulnerable to damage which, in a party or large family get-together situation, is when damage often happens.
There are of course things you can use over acrylic paint to protect it - sealants and varnishes and such. It's likely to change the appearance of the surface a bit, in terms of colour and shine. You could try these out on an inconspicuous spot first.
If the painted surface starts to look a bit shabby, it's entirely possible to rub down the entire table top and repaint; you wouldn't need to take it all the way back to the oak, and any deep scratches can be filled before repainting.
But as others have said, at this price a bespoke piece of furniture might be an alternative.
posted by pipeski at 5:47 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
A glass top is likely to be a pain if you ever plan to extend the table, as you'll have to store the glass, and the table will be vulnerable to damage which, in a party or large family get-together situation, is when damage often happens.
There are of course things you can use over acrylic paint to protect it - sealants and varnishes and such. It's likely to change the appearance of the surface a bit, in terms of colour and shine. You could try these out on an inconspicuous spot first.
If the painted surface starts to look a bit shabby, it's entirely possible to rub down the entire table top and repaint; you wouldn't need to take it all the way back to the oak, and any deep scratches can be filled before repainting.
But as others have said, at this price a bespoke piece of furniture might be an alternative.
posted by pipeski at 5:47 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
Oh man, I have that table (or maybe version 1), and it is one of my most regretted purchases. I bought it 8 or 9 years ago. The veneer is so fragile. I gave up and use a tablecloth 100% of the time.
posted by another zebra at 6:20 AM on November 25, 2019 [3 favorites]
posted by another zebra at 6:20 AM on November 25, 2019 [3 favorites]
Have you looked at ‘unfinished wood furniture’ type stores? Despite the name they usually have finished piece available, they will likely have something like that, and they don’t usually have great online presence.
piling on: please don’t buy that table
posted by SaltySalticid at 6:28 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
piling on: please don’t buy that table
posted by SaltySalticid at 6:28 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
You might consider a strong floor polish that will seal and strengthen the coating.
Future Floor Polish
A light, thin, strong glossy polymer that model kit and cosplayers use to provide a clear protective cover to models and outfits. You might try it in a hidden spot and see if it works well with the cladding.
posted by nickggully at 7:01 AM on November 25, 2019
Future Floor Polish
A light, thin, strong glossy polymer that model kit and cosplayers use to provide a clear protective cover to models and outfits. You might try it in a hidden spot and see if it works well with the cladding.
posted by nickggully at 7:01 AM on November 25, 2019
If you don't mind the effect, a clear table/bar top epoxy resin is nearly indestructible. You have seen it if you've been to a bar. Relatively easy to "install", but watch some vids first.
posted by booooooze at 7:06 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
posted by booooooze at 7:06 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
Mod note: A few deleted; OP is looking for "DIY coating or other treatment" options, and said they are not interested in having it made (already looked into it) or topping it with something like glass, etc., or tablecloth or similar.
posted by taz (staff) at 7:18 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
posted by taz (staff) at 7:18 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
Our dining room table is a walnut veneer over teak. We bought it from a vintage store and the veneer was already chipped on one edge so we knew what kind of wear to expect. Even with that advance knowledge, the cats have done much more serious damage than we thought likely. It’s possible to strip and refinish the veneer, but it’s not really possible to repair damage that penetrates the entire thickness and exposes the layer underneath. I don’t get the impression the veneer on that Crate & Barrel table will stand up well to cats.
Worse, even if you apply a magic coating that protects the veneer from claws and other scratches, you’ll struggle with moisture. Engineered wood responds really poorly to moisture. If you get bubbling or buckling that affects the veneer, you can’t fix it by stripping the finish. When warm, moist serving dishes sit on our table we’ll get a white haze in the finish, but it fades over the next couple days and disappears completely with a little polishing. A single warm, moist dish is likely to ruin that table. I think the answer to your question is that there’s no protectant that will make that table work for you.
posted by fedward at 7:43 AM on November 25, 2019
Worse, even if you apply a magic coating that protects the veneer from claws and other scratches, you’ll struggle with moisture. Engineered wood responds really poorly to moisture. If you get bubbling or buckling that affects the veneer, you can’t fix it by stripping the finish. When warm, moist serving dishes sit on our table we’ll get a white haze in the finish, but it fades over the next couple days and disappears completely with a little polishing. A single warm, moist dish is likely to ruin that table. I think the answer to your question is that there’s no protectant that will make that table work for you.
posted by fedward at 7:43 AM on November 25, 2019
Best answer: I've never applied it to painted veneer, but Waterlox is the go-to for a durable finish. You'll want to build up many thin coats (6 or more), but you'll have a solid coating with that product. You can also re-apply Waterlox later if there's scratches you want to cover.
As mentioned above, with engineered wood you'll have to mindful of how long a wet application stays wet as warping or bubbling is a major risk. Waterlox wants to bond to bare wood, but can be applied over some finishes. See their page on applying over other finishes.
Since the site says this is waxed, you will have to remove that coating to do pretty much anything as no 'hard' coating will adhere to waxed coatings. Removing waxed coatings is extremely difficult and, if you don't get it all, will severely impact any additional coatings you apply.
Having redone a few pieces, I would not recommend doing any of this, but if you're going to invest the time and money, Waterlox is a premium option.
posted by youknowwhatpart at 8:15 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
As mentioned above, with engineered wood you'll have to mindful of how long a wet application stays wet as warping or bubbling is a major risk. Waterlox wants to bond to bare wood, but can be applied over some finishes. See their page on applying over other finishes.
Since the site says this is waxed, you will have to remove that coating to do pretty much anything as no 'hard' coating will adhere to waxed coatings. Removing waxed coatings is extremely difficult and, if you don't get it all, will severely impact any additional coatings you apply.
Having redone a few pieces, I would not recommend doing any of this, but if you're going to invest the time and money, Waterlox is a premium option.
posted by youknowwhatpart at 8:15 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
The only finish here that is actually likely to reduce the impact of cat claws is an epoxy resin layer. Any sort of poly or whatever will reduce water damage or staining, (and you would need to remove the wax first) but they just don't do much for scratches (source: have much furniture and cats). And I really don't think you want to do epoxy as you'd need to build a frame and it tends to get bubbles and it's really going to change the look of the table.
I would not buy this if I were you. You'd be way better off with a solid wood surface, which will wear with character rather than looking crappy like veneer does, OR can be sanded down.
posted by stillnocturnal at 8:32 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
I would not buy this if I were you. You'd be way better off with a solid wood surface, which will wear with character rather than looking crappy like veneer does, OR can be sanded down.
posted by stillnocturnal at 8:32 AM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
You could get a pourable epoxy coating. Applying it is not a trivial task: you'd need a dust-free, well-ventilated space to work, and you should really try out a test piece before you commit to that path to see if you like the results. There are a bunch of how-to videos on youtube.
posted by adamrice at 8:59 AM on November 25, 2019
posted by adamrice at 8:59 AM on November 25, 2019
Best answer: I see some suggestions for various chemical coatings, but the item has a wax topcoat that would need to be totally removed, and that would completely alter the look of the table.
Here's my original comment before I looked at the reviews:
**the wax finish would be a problem here as well, and anything would facilitate bonding isn't going to result in a nice clear finish.
posted by zenon at 9:24 AM on November 25, 2019
Here's my original comment before I looked at the reviews:
The reason this table didn't come with a tough surface is because in addition to both time and cash, they be a hassle. And they will change the look.*it would need to be completely sanded off as the wax and the epoxy are enemies
For example, that 2 part epoxy resin? It would certainly provide the most durable surface, but it's not cheap (60$!). And the end product? I always end up with bubbles. The quick set stuff is so hard to put on, and the slow stuff always ends up getting fluff and dirt in it. Boo. And then there's the odor, and days of it. yuck.
And then there is the process.
First you would have to prep, both the surface and the workspace. Others have noted it might need to be lightly sanded, but at a minimum it would need to be clean*. And that means a workspace that isn't dusty and isn't too cold and is well ventilated. And can stay that way for the duration of the project. 3 day cure time is normal.
Second- that epoxy application. Watch some of these epoxy videos - hot water baths, torches and fun. Note that they didn't bother boxing the project it - this is the 'pour' method. A thick epoxy and something below for the extra bits to land on. Something plastic. In the second video the guy did do two coats spread over 4 hours, and it looks pretty good. The only bonus: No sanding.
So epoxy is doable but a slog.
Instead I would just go with a spaypaint water based polyurethane or a spraypaint enamel or both**. Minwax and Varathane make polyurethanes and Rust-Oleum does spray topcoats like this. The polyurethane wouldn't protect from the cats, and if that is the big concern here I would just get 4 cans of the Rust-Oleum and spend an afternoon putting a few coats of that on. It will smell like the inside of a bottle of nail polish. And the work needs to be around room temperature. And YES sanding between layers would get you nicer results. And yes the enamel will change how the design looks - you have choices, but it won't look like the original finish. But this enamel would get you most of the way there - the table you want, and a few layers of enamel would make it significantly tougher. Six cans and you can also do the legs. Think very thin applications there - any build up will run.
On my next project I'm going to brush on some polyurethane, sand, because woodworkers love to ingest dust and then spray a topcoat or three.
**the wax finish would be a problem here as well, and anything would facilitate bonding isn't going to result in a nice clear finish.
posted by zenon at 9:24 AM on November 25, 2019
My mom was a hobby furniture reconstructor/refinisher/mashup artist for a while, and her solution to this conundrum was always polyurethane. It will probably change the appearance, but if it's the function and not those specific color/texture aesthetics it would be the most reasonable solution.
Something you might do is go get a garage sale or charity shop end table or vanity table or something and do a practice run on it, to get a feel for what you need to do (tip: youtube will show/tell you the hows) and what it'll do do the original finish and whether you find the outcome durable enough.
posted by Lyn Never at 10:44 AM on November 25, 2019
Something you might do is go get a garage sale or charity shop end table or vanity table or something and do a practice run on it, to get a feel for what you need to do (tip: youtube will show/tell you the hows) and what it'll do do the original finish and whether you find the outcome durable enough.
posted by Lyn Never at 10:44 AM on November 25, 2019
Best answer: I stripped, re-stained, and re-sealed an engineered wood veneer table top like that.
You would have to strip, sand, stain, and then seal the table to get the seal you need. If you do it in your house (with dust) and if you do not have experience with applying polyurethane finishes then it will not be perfect (finish will have small bubbles, finger prints, pet hair).
If you are ok doing all those steps to get a not perfect result then you should go for it. I was very happy with the result I got from my DIY project, but I started with an old clunker table from craiglist that was much improved by my efforts. If you have reasonable expectations then I think it could work out.
posted by skrozidile at 2:29 PM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
You would have to strip, sand, stain, and then seal the table to get the seal you need. If you do it in your house (with dust) and if you do not have experience with applying polyurethane finishes then it will not be perfect (finish will have small bubbles, finger prints, pet hair).
If you are ok doing all those steps to get a not perfect result then you should go for it. I was very happy with the result I got from my DIY project, but I started with an old clunker table from craiglist that was much improved by my efforts. If you have reasonable expectations then I think it could work out.
posted by skrozidile at 2:29 PM on November 25, 2019 [1 favorite]
Polyurethane.
You can buy it in a spray can. There are also gel finishes that you can wipe on and wipe off. You do a few coats and sand lightly in between. If you love that table, go for it.
posted by A Terrible Llama at 4:05 PM on November 25, 2019
You can buy it in a spray can. There are also gel finishes that you can wipe on and wipe off. You do a few coats and sand lightly in between. If you love that table, go for it.
posted by A Terrible Llama at 4:05 PM on November 25, 2019
We used the two-part, sixty-buck epoxy on our beetle-eaten Red Gum wood countertop and it was fine. Sure, a few bubbles, but it wasn't a big deal to put on and it's practically bulletproof.
posted by atchafalaya at 11:51 PM on November 25, 2019
posted by atchafalaya at 11:51 PM on November 25, 2019
Response by poster: Thanks, everybody! Sounds like some people think it wouldn't be a big deal to apply a treatment, but enough others think it will be an exacting, onerous process, and/or still not yield a result I'd want. It's too pricey for an experiment. I think thick epoxy might prevent the leaves from fitting back in where they're supposed to self-store. I like the idea of trying out other coatings on a thrift store piece, except I don't think I'd know if it was comparable enough (i.e., this kind of waxed, painted veneer over engineered wood).
Meanwhile, they've posted a Black Friday banner, and it doesn't look like big discounts are coming. So, at least it's not time-sensitive. I can do a few things...
- For some of the coatings recommended here, I could email their customer service folks to get their own take on whether they'd apply well (given the wax and my potentially less-than-perfect removal of it), and how well they'd prevent water damage and scratches.
- I can call around some more for furniture builders, and see if the quotes improve enough if we give up some nice-to-haves -- I don't NEED the leaves to self-store, and I can give up some of this one's 118.5" maximum extension. I do think some of you emphasizing how easy the custom-build option would be weren't considering those aspects (or else you think it looks like all the other white-legged farm tables... which it doesn't, to us).
- And of course, we can keep our eyes out for another, better made, more reasonably priced table. We've looked at so many, but the right one may be out there.
In any case, I will eventually update, in case anyone's still interested in what we end up doing. Thanks again!
posted by daisyace at 7:59 AM on November 26, 2019
Meanwhile, they've posted a Black Friday banner, and it doesn't look like big discounts are coming. So, at least it's not time-sensitive. I can do a few things...
- For some of the coatings recommended here, I could email their customer service folks to get their own take on whether they'd apply well (given the wax and my potentially less-than-perfect removal of it), and how well they'd prevent water damage and scratches.
- I can call around some more for furniture builders, and see if the quotes improve enough if we give up some nice-to-haves -- I don't NEED the leaves to self-store, and I can give up some of this one's 118.5" maximum extension. I do think some of you emphasizing how easy the custom-build option would be weren't considering those aspects (or else you think it looks like all the other white-legged farm tables... which it doesn't, to us).
- And of course, we can keep our eyes out for another, better made, more reasonably priced table. We've looked at so many, but the right one may be out there.
In any case, I will eventually update, in case anyone's still interested in what we end up doing. Thanks again!
posted by daisyace at 7:59 AM on November 26, 2019
Response by poster: In case anyone's still watching for an update, we FINALLY have a table! I posted the full update in the follow-up thread to this one.
posted by daisyace at 8:18 AM on July 18, 2020 [2 favorites]
posted by daisyace at 8:18 AM on July 18, 2020 [2 favorites]
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posted by jraz at 4:37 AM on November 25, 2019