Where are the women's button downs--and dressing "futch" in the office
March 21, 2019 10:23 AM   Subscribe

I need to start planning my wardrobe around getting an office job. Does anyone have favorite budget-friendly, non-frilly button-up shirts in women's-style fits? And/or any recommendations on dressing business casual "futch" on a budget?

I'm bigger-sized (14? 16?). I don't have much of a waist but I do have boobs, so men's-style shirts look weird on me. I basically have to buy an entire wardrobe, so, uh, something budget-friendly would be nice and custom tailoring on everything is probably out of the question. My plan was to buy a couple pairs of pants and a whole lot of fitted button downs until I figure out how else I'm supposed to dress.

I don't have a style that's not "jeans and t-shirt", though I aspire to be stylish. I feel most comfortable in the "futch" aesthetic, and if someone has recommendations on how to do that besides button-ups forever then I am all ears!
posted by anonymous to Clothing, Beauty, & Fashion (26 answers total)
 
J. Crew, Brooks Brothers, Kirrin Finch all have masc. of center button downs for women. Kirrin Finch has a seven button closure to deal with boob gap. Autostraddle has been running a "Find Your Fit" section that may help with style inspiration.
posted by edbles at 10:28 AM on March 21, 2019 [3 favorites]


Try Banana Republic Factory and Gap Factory. They're significantly cheaper (and, often, slightly lower quality, but that's the trade off) then their non-factory cousins, but like 1/2 my clothes are from there and they hold up fine.
posted by brainmouse at 10:37 AM on March 21, 2019 [4 favorites]


Uniqlo has a pretty wide range of women's button-ups that are unembellished and affordable. They're also designed without darts at the waist but can accommodate them, so 1) they are less likely to cause boob gap and 2) you can buy and wear them now and get them tailored later if you like.
posted by showbiz_liz at 10:41 AM on March 21, 2019 [3 favorites]


As for non-button-up options: it depends on the office, but henleys and polos have been fine in every office I've worked in. For the winter you've also got sweaters in the mix.
posted by showbiz_liz at 10:44 AM on March 21, 2019 [1 favorite]


Foxcroft used to be the go-to. I have not checked them out lately but they're pretty widely available. They do have non-frilly options though you'd never know by the front page.
posted by beaning at 10:46 AM on March 21, 2019 [3 favorites]


Generally speaking (as a person who dresses tomboy femme, a similar style), I find that in most stores I just have to check out 5-10 buttoned shirts to find one shirt that suits my needs (ie doesn't have frills or cutouts or embroidery or whatever). It's a bummer but most places do have at least a few options.

(Also, on reflection I think Uniqlo may not carry your size, my bad!)
posted by showbiz_liz at 10:56 AM on March 21, 2019


I'm a similar size (maybe? I don't really know women's sizes) and busty, and I have given up on button-downs fitting correctly and wear them open over solid-color fitted shirts. It's a little more casual but you don't have to worry about gapping - just find something that fits your shoulders and doesn't hang too loose.
posted by restless_nomad at 11:03 AM on March 21, 2019 [4 favorites]


I wear fine-gauge cotton crewnecks, vnecks, and cardigans for 3 seasons. They look good under a jacket, even cardigans. I can wear a tshirt under a vneck or cardigan for warmth or fashion. In summer I wear nicely made tshirts, sometimes layered. I specifically look for petite sizes, because I am short-waisted and overweight. Women's clothes right now feel very fussy, but be persistent. Almost everybody will have regular discounts. I like wearing solid colors and mixing them in a way that pleases me.
posted by theora55 at 11:40 AM on March 21, 2019 [2 favorites]


Yes, for non button down options, a tank top under a cardigan or jacket is good. If desired, you can add personal flair through scarves, necklaces, pins, etc.
posted by beaning at 11:40 AM on March 21, 2019 [1 favorite]


This shirt has princess seams to account for boobs. I find them much more helpful than darts at my size. If the seams aren't too feminine for you, I find they work well. In addition to the seams, it has an extra button in the bust area to keep it closed. I'm a 34D and the large is a tad big for me.
posted by metasarah at 11:41 AM on March 21, 2019 [1 favorite]


I've found that Old Navy has some nice button downs. I'm a 44DDD and wear an XL in the flannel and cotton button downs. No boob gap, not too long and the sleeves are a good length. I do suggest trying them on because some of them have a weird hip flare that I, as someone with no hips, doesn't like the look of.
posted by ellebee at 11:51 AM on March 21, 2019 [1 favorite]


eShakti doesn't have a lot of button-downs in their tops collection, but they have some. (They may also not be "budget" friendly.) Their sizes are designed for women's shapes, and for an extra $10, you get both shape adjustments (change sleeve length, neckline, hemline) and custom measurements options - you can give them your exact measurements and get a shirt (dress, jumpsuit, pants, etc) designed for your body.

Without the custom options, they just require a size (their size chart is accurate for their clothing) and a height - when they say "knee length," they mean knee length on you, not knee length on their 5'8" size 8 model. I wear a size 2X in eShakti, and I have about 6 of their dresses and a few other things.
posted by ErisLordFreedom at 12:06 PM on March 21, 2019


showbiz_liz, my experience is that Uniqlo XL fits a 14/16 with DDD chest, but I haven't tried their button up styles. Some styles have XXL online and they could be tailored.
posted by matildaben at 12:25 PM on March 21, 2019 [1 favorite]


As a butch lady in about your size, I'd like to anti-rec Old Navy's women's button-fronts -- they are thin and I always have button gaping issues with them. Their men's button-fronts, on the other hand, I wear all the time, but they are not women's-styled. If you want women's styled just because you think men's will gape, I'd suggest trying the men's and seeing if they work for you. They have two main fits, a slim fit and a classic fit. The classic is boxier and it's what I prefer, but you could probably wear the slim fit and it would be fine, I have a couple of those. I don't have issues with gaping in those but the sleeves are often comically long... I just roll them up. This is a great time to be shopping ON too because their short sleeve button-fronts are really cute! I get lots of compliments on mine, you can find them patterned with animals or fish or stripes or whatever.
posted by possibilityleft at 12:44 PM on March 21, 2019 [3 favorites]


I used to have good luck with the button-downs from NY&Co - they have a lot of froofy frilly stuff, but also generally a good selection of plain button-downs in work-appropriate colors. I'm a bit smaller than you but I wore a large, I think, and the sizes go up to XXL.

It's one of those stores where you kind of need to wait for a sale, though -very annoying pricing.
posted by mskyle at 1:35 PM on March 21, 2019 [2 favorites]


I normally think Lands' End clothes are frumpy but I have really liked their no-iron button-down shirts with stretch.

I'd rethink your position on altering, though-- it's not that expensive to add darts to a shirt front to accommodate boobs, and it can make a huge difference to the shirt's fit and appearance. You might be able to get nice men's shirts at a thrift or consignment store or something that would make alterations budget-neutral.

In addition to button-down shirts, look at V-neck sweaters in solid colors. They're knitted, so they have more give than the typical shirt, but they can still be very neutral and professional. I wear a V-neck merino sweater from Uniqlo with black trousers about 4 days a week. They also work well under a blazer if you need a jacket.
posted by The Elusive Architeuthis at 2:03 PM on March 21, 2019 [2 favorites]


With the caveat that their size range is definitely limited and their cuts aren't super curve-friendly, I'm seconding Uniqlo for affordable, reasonably well-made basics that work for a clean-cut androgynous look. I wear a lot of their flannel button-downs, sweaters, and blazers. They have good sales and their stuff tends to be more durable than anything else I've found at that price point, which can make it worthwhile to get things tailored. Also, if finding button-downs is too much of a challenge, definitely consider the option of a good blazer over a simple solid-color sweater (v- or crewneck) in cold weather. A light linen or cotton blazer with a thick, solid t-shirt underneath should also work in the summer if it's not too formal a setting. Look for "boyfriend blazer" cuts with straighter lines for something less femme. Another option for colder weather is a sleeveless sweater vest worn over a button-down shirt, which can look quite dapper and also covers up imperfections in the fit of the button-down.
posted by karayel at 2:15 PM on March 21, 2019 [2 favorites]


This might already be on your radar - but make sure you buy a good minimizer bra. That'll help a bit with the gapping.

(There are cheaper options. But I'm bad at picking out bras, so I rely on the up-sale a prior bra fitter gave me.)
posted by politikitty at 3:02 PM on March 21, 2019


Hi, I am also a woman who just wants to wear button downs like a dude at work, but has a large chest. The only way I've found that balances that is to wear more of a tunic style button down (Sonoma from Khols has a cute one now, wore to work today.) But that has less of a butch aesthetic. I do wear swing tops and similar from Daily Ritual with colored jeans. Or longer tank prints with colored jeans. So long shirt plus colored jeans is what I think the large chested female version of a button down is, even if you like to dress a bit on the masculine side (which I do) because boobs. But try some styles and see how you feel.
posted by Kalmya at 5:17 PM on March 21, 2019 [1 favorite]


Muji has nice plain button-downs that cost about the same as Uniqlo but I think are higher quality.
posted by the_blizz at 7:43 PM on March 21, 2019


Oh, also—pricier and I’m still undecided on quality, but Everlane’s cuts are mostly unfussy.
posted by the_blizz at 7:50 PM on March 21, 2019


Along with NY&Co and Foxcroft, I have quite a few of these No Iron Blouses from Coldwater Creek . I'm pretty busty and I don't need to use a safety pin to prevent gaposis. And they come in lots of colors. I also have a few Chico's button downs too. Both have patterns/stipes that are pretty conservative as well as solids.
posted by vespabelle at 9:05 PM on March 21, 2019


My work “uniform” is Brooks Brothers non-iron buttondowns, camisole underneath, and pants from Loft (their curvy Julia fit happens to fit me well).

I got the camisoles from Banana Republic but ages ago; I still have one that is from 1999. I leave the top few buttons undone; I’m not very busty though so don’t know how this look would work for someone who is. Also re:BP, their fit through the arms can be stupidly tight. I gave up on them for sleeved shirts for this reason.

On the other hand I really like the ease of this wardrobe, especially the no-iron shirts. They also work over jeans for a slightly more casual look (that’s what I wore as a more junior academic).
posted by nat at 2:28 AM on March 22, 2019


Best answer: My wife prefers to wear button up shirts, and the ones we have found that with the best wear to price ratio is Banana Republic. And they are currently on sale right now for about $50 a piece. We have found they will last over a year with weekly wear. We haven't found others that will last that long. I would suggest trying the on if you can to get the right fit (I believe they have a straight fit and a more loose fit version).

Two ancillary issues to the button up shirts - 1) You may consider wearing an undershirt. This helps smooth out the lines of your bra and provides extra coverage in case there is gap at the buttons. The jockey modal tank from target is a nice upgrade from a simple a tank while not being too expensive. 2) If you send your shirts out for cleaning, make sure you request "launder and press". This is how they treat men's shirts. Usually the dry cleaner will automatically dry clean women's shirts. Dry cleaning is harder on the shirt - and usually at least twice as expensive! If your dry cleaner claims they can only dry clean women's shirts you should find a new dry cleaner. Sending it out is an expense - but not as expensive as I thought. We currently pay $2.25 for a clean and press ($7 to dry clean the same shirt).
posted by donovangirl at 9:56 AM on March 22, 2019


Best answer: So I am a curvy lady who likes button up (/down) shirts. If it fit in the bust area, the waist would be big, and even if it was as fitted as I like, I was always angsting about the buttons gapping.

I know this is counter to your "not getting everything tailored" mention, but this has been a total game changer for me and it might be worth trying on one shirt or getting a local quote, if it seems like it's something that would work for you.

1) Take shirt that fits bust to tailor (I buy them from Express)
2) Ask them to take in the waist such that it's not just baggy
3) Ask them to sew the placket shut from the hem up to the button of my choice
4) Ask them to add a hidden zipper on one of the side seams

This was not as expensive as it sounds like it would be (where I am anyway) and made such a huge difference. No more button gapping, no more baggy, ill-fitting shirts. I used to buy shirts like this all the time hoping that maybe, this once, they'd look okay on my curvy frame, but I'd never wear them because they just never fit/looked right. The above deals with the fit and the potential button gapping issue which was always a big worry for me. I'm in the South (right now) so wearing undershirts all the time was a no-go.

My inspiration was this shirt, which I love and purchased to go with interview suits, but will not wear often due to its interview-suit-shirt purpose and ridiculous price tag.
posted by ZeroDivides at 2:23 PM on March 22, 2019 [2 favorites]


Response by poster: Update: ended up buying discounted button-ups that fit my chest from JC Penney and getting them tailored. Also, I have not figured out futch yet as the budget-friendly slacks that fit are decidedly feminine and I ended up pairing them with flats because cool boots and shoes from the men's department would look out of place. In the end I have office clothes, though not necessarily in the style I'd prefer.
posted by Anonymous at 4:48 AM on October 9, 2019


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