Glazing putty/window repair advice needed
October 25, 2018 1:46 PM Subscribe
Cleaning windows in the barn, I've realized that a few panes need replacing, and others are coming loose where the putty has failed. I have plexiglass I'm willing to use, and can probably get some replacement glass cut, but what do I need to know in order to do this job?
I cleaned up a bunch of windows and realized that the old putty is cracking off in lots of places, and some of the panes are at risk of falling out and smashing. What tools and supplies do I need to fix this problem? These are barn windows, so I don't need the best-looking solution, but I do need something that's going to hold up to temperature changes. How do I hold the pane in while the putty is drying? Is there a specific putty that's best for this purpose? What do I use to apply it? What's clean-up going to be like? Fortunately or unfortunately, removing the old putty will not be difficult--it's that cracked and/or missing. What else do I need to know about prepping the windows? Having never dome this, I welcome your recommendations and advice.
I cleaned up a bunch of windows and realized that the old putty is cracking off in lots of places, and some of the panes are at risk of falling out and smashing. What tools and supplies do I need to fix this problem? These are barn windows, so I don't need the best-looking solution, but I do need something that's going to hold up to temperature changes. How do I hold the pane in while the putty is drying? Is there a specific putty that's best for this purpose? What do I use to apply it? What's clean-up going to be like? Fortunately or unfortunately, removing the old putty will not be difficult--it's that cracked and/or missing. What else do I need to know about prepping the windows? Having never dome this, I welcome your recommendations and advice.
Think_Long's link is really good and complete but I'd add one caution - if it's an old barn and the windows were painted more than 30 years ago it could have been lead-based paint. If that's the case I would use a true respirator if you are going to use a heat gun - you don't want to inhale lead and a dust mask will only protect against particulates. If you don't heat the windows (which I've never done) you are probably fine with a dust mask but be careful about disposing the dust safely.
posted by leslies at 2:01 PM on October 25, 2018 [2 favorites]
posted by leslies at 2:01 PM on October 25, 2018 [2 favorites]
Glazing putty installed before the mid-70s will also contain lead; it’s not just the paint. I know you said it’s mostly missing, but you’ll want to use a putty knife and hot gun to scrape it all off and smooth the surface before you apply new.
posted by missmary6 at 6:06 PM on October 25, 2018 [1 favorite]
posted by missmary6 at 6:06 PM on October 25, 2018 [1 favorite]
Think_Long did send you to a good page. Like any other skill you'll learn by doing it. As the guy said, old putty is hard. It's *really* hard. I use a ratty chisel (not one of my Sunday Chisels of course but just a beater, I've always got a few of those in my toolbox, they show up mysteriously, in much the same way that philips screwdrivers disappear). Using a putty knife will work in some places but keep that chisel close, and be aware that you're going to have to bonk on it with your hammer. That's when you'll break glass but if you've a number of windows to change out just know that you're going to lose a few of them. The guy did say gloves and he's sure right, but not just any gloves, get some rubberized gloves that glass won't slice you through them -- I've got this one pair I've had since The Punic Wars. I've never used heat nor ever even thought of it or heard of it being used -- live and learn. And lead, never considered that either -- great advice there.
It's easy-peasy, once you're on your fifth window. It's really satisfying to set the glass in, bonk in some glazing points to hold it in place, then put putty in and shape that putty with your putty knife (duh). I learned it by doing an entire Florida room in this really nice house in Houston, all of it had been let go for long years past time, the putty was hard as rocks, which resulted in more glass broken as I did the job, plus there was a considerable amount of cracked glass too, maybe from the house settling(?)
Depending upon the age of the glass, look for whorls in it, imperfections you'd never see today. That's not good or bad but I like to see it, just because I guess.
posted by dancestoblue at 6:19 PM on October 25, 2018 [4 favorites]
It's easy-peasy, once you're on your fifth window. It's really satisfying to set the glass in, bonk in some glazing points to hold it in place, then put putty in and shape that putty with your putty knife (duh). I learned it by doing an entire Florida room in this really nice house in Houston, all of it had been let go for long years past time, the putty was hard as rocks, which resulted in more glass broken as I did the job, plus there was a considerable amount of cracked glass too, maybe from the house settling(?)
Depending upon the age of the glass, look for whorls in it, imperfections you'd never see today. That's not good or bad but I like to see it, just because I guess.
posted by dancestoblue at 6:19 PM on October 25, 2018 [4 favorites]
Couple comments on Think_Long's link -
I've never heard of using heat either. I might try it, but I'm concerned about volitalizing the lead in the paint.
I *always* use the oil based putty. I tried the latex, but the work came out really ugly.
And I back bed with the oil based putty - back bedding being the little skinny bead on the wood that you set the glass into. Never had an issue.
A 5 in 1 tool is the best thing I've found for tooling the putty.
If you use the oil based putty, you must first prime the wood that it will touch with *oil based* paint.
Get fresh putty, grab a hunk and work it with your hands to warm it and soften it.
Make skinny "snakes" and rub them into the corner along the edge of where the glass sits with your finger. Set glass in it. Press in glaziers points.
Make a "snake" that is too big for the wood/glass corner and work it in. Drag the 5 in 1 over it to press it in further, it will remove the excess at the same time, and give the putty a nice slick finish.
The link says to let it cure "a few days" before painting. I've usually found it takes more like a week or more, but I live in Humidville, Ga.
And resist using that plexiglass. The glazing putty will outlast it. Lexan yellows if someone suggests that.
posted by rudd135 at 7:25 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]
I've never heard of using heat either. I might try it, but I'm concerned about volitalizing the lead in the paint.
I *always* use the oil based putty. I tried the latex, but the work came out really ugly.
And I back bed with the oil based putty - back bedding being the little skinny bead on the wood that you set the glass into. Never had an issue.
A 5 in 1 tool is the best thing I've found for tooling the putty.
If you use the oil based putty, you must first prime the wood that it will touch with *oil based* paint.
Get fresh putty, grab a hunk and work it with your hands to warm it and soften it.
Make skinny "snakes" and rub them into the corner along the edge of where the glass sits with your finger. Set glass in it. Press in glaziers points.
Make a "snake" that is too big for the wood/glass corner and work it in. Drag the 5 in 1 over it to press it in further, it will remove the excess at the same time, and give the putty a nice slick finish.
The link says to let it cure "a few days" before painting. I've usually found it takes more like a week or more, but I live in Humidville, Ga.
And resist using that plexiglass. The glazing putty will outlast it. Lexan yellows if someone suggests that.
posted by rudd135 at 7:25 PM on October 26, 2018 [1 favorite]
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posted by Think_Long at 1:55 PM on October 25, 2018 [2 favorites]